Hey Veeky Forums how did i do

hey Veeky Forums how did i do
i bought a r154 for $400 thats stuck in gear do you guys think its a broken shift linkage or some thing worse? it seems like the shifter is in netural and the tranny spins freely from both sides

why did you buy a 400 dollar broken transmission

To throw away obviously.

....are you fucking retarded??

to rebuild shift forks are only like $150 i figure one is just cracked

open it up and find out u dummy

you have to push in the clutch to change gears

If you're in New England I'll trade you a 100% working W58 for it. You can even drive the Supra that it's in before pulling it, lmao

That's a good price.

If the input shaft isn't coupled with the output shaft though the shifter has selected a gear, chances are the selector fork is gone or as you thought the linkage is gone.

Drain the oil. If glitter comes out, shit just got expensive.

Because a good condition R154 is $800

implying op is going to repair it

blue board senpai

yea haha im gonna give a shot my dads friend is a mechanic so if i get stuck i can just go to him
yea where im from they go for 1200, so i figure even a full rebuild kit using upgraded marlin crawler parts for $800 makes for a much better tranny

Newfag spotted

That bell housing alone is worth $200.

and

We can't know until you open it up and see how blown up it is inside.

i mean it spins freely with no sound, it cant be that bad right..

bumper

I had to spend $1500 for a used r154 on eBay
You did good

what are you running it behind a 2j?

Yeah.
Sadly, I still haven't got it running and haven't worked on it in 2 years. It needs a wiring harness built from scratch to mate up to a aem v2 that is originally for a Honda.
I need to just sit down and figure out how to do it, but I've got too many projects going on right now. I'm the same user who is rebuilding the 240z engine and stuffing it in a lifted Honda 600

damn your wild man how are you gonna make it fit:D im slapping a 2j in a 280z

I had to remove the firewall to allow the I6 to fit in there. Also, I'm going to remove the inner fender wells where the old strut mounts are, to make room for the long travel suspension. It makes things much easier having a body-on-frame design because I can modify or remove structural parts of the unibody. Normally you wouldn't be able to cut out the entire strut towers and subframe without ruining the car's chassis strength. But with the nice solid frame underneath, you can.
pic is shitty, sorry

are you a mechanic as a day job?

No, a carpenter. My dad has a ranch with a nicely equipped auto shop. Growing up there, my dad's friend was always rebuilding hotrods and jeeps and he taught me how to wrench and weld/fabricate.
It's just a fun hobby
>finished the bottom end earlier today

Got any pics of your swap? That sounds like a cool project

...

ive been kinda lazy as far as pictures so far ive done this
full coil over suspension
all the bearings
all the bushigs
upgraded brakes
did the undercoat
started piecing together the swap

its a long journey as i have to nickle and time everything as im a broke ass college student:D

here was the car before i started tearing into it

i got really lucky and got the car for $2500 0 rust and fully running. it was a texas car that a doctor stuck in his hanger well over a decade ago

Sweet. Is it gonna be turbo? And if so, is it a true turbo block, or a non turbo conversion? How much did you get it for?

Not necessarily, especially if you can't check all of the gears. Linkage issues always make me wary, I've seen too many transmissions shift into two gears at once and shit all the teeth off of one or more of them.

im gonna go with the non vvti gte i found one on craigslist the other day for $1500 but somebody bought it as i was packing my truck to go get it:00
what car is this?

what confuses me is i can move the shifter left and right but not forward and back, i really hope the gears arent fucked bud:/ either way i crack that greasy son of a whore tomorrow open and see what the verdict is

Damn that sucks, that was a good deal if it was in good condition.
It's an '86 mk3 supra. Thought I had a pic of it right now, but I don't

Make sure that ecu had the proper amount of injector and coil drivers for your application

I know some of those honda ecus wont allow 6 cyls to be applied

If the bearings are fucked, you can buy a marlin crawler kit and replace the gears and have a built as fuck tranny. Then it'll sell for big $ if you choose to sell

It's a 60-50 and yeah I checked before hand to make sure it has enough injector drivers. It can run up to 8, so I'm good. These particular ecu's are popular for 2j's because they're almost $1000 cheaper than the actual Supra aem v2

haha just to add a little salt to the wound it had a w58 bolted to the back of it and it was a super clean engine, it looked like the stock pictures they use on ebay
yea thats the plan man i think the whole kit goes for around $800 then ill get the case polished and ask like ~$3k for it

Which is ridiculous, innit? Almost the same board and a thousand bucks difference.

It's bullshit man.

For what it's worth, persevere. Just make the new loom yourself. It took me a while to wire up a 4424 to my Supra as there was no documentation at all until I got the shits and removed most of the factory loom and wired an engine management loom directly from the 4424 to the loads. Took a wee bit to figure out that Nippon Denso hall effect are trailing edge and 4424's only accept leading edge. That made things a bit difficult. I think the AEM v2 accepts both leading and trailing edge reluctor signals.

Good luck with the project dude.

Thanks man.
Anything else I should know about building that wiring loom? It's one of the things I've never done before. I've never done any serious wiring before

Good quality tinned seven core trailer cable is your friend here. Super easy way to get seven channels up or down through the firewall and to the loads and sensors. Good quality stuff that can do fifteen amps continuous per wire is great for injection with a common b+ wire and six channels back to the pcm for sequential injection. Same with the three wire tps and four wire iac, seven conductors in the trailer cable so you only have one cable from the throttle body back.

Run spare wire runs to each corner of the engine bay. That pays off six days or six months down the track with a line locker solenoid install or an additional oil cooler thermo fan upgrade. Leave options for yourself.

Use tinned wire only. Copper will let you down eventually, and you will probably only way to do this once.

Put a ferrite donut around the b+ to the pcm. HF on the b+ can do some pretty interesting things and to prevent this for a few dollars is well worth it.

Wiremap everything. Jot down every detail and odd things you had to do when doing the job. Sucks when down the track you forgot that trick you had to get the wire run to poke out of the dash into the grommet in the firewall or where you ended up getting +5v for the map sensor etc etc.

Drink beer and swear a lot.

>basically building a devil Z
That long hood was made for a l6. Godspeed.

haha thats the plan thanks man you could honestly fit 2 l28s in the engine bay its huge:D id love to see some rich dude put a supercharged inline 8 in it that would be unreal

well guys i cracked it open and to my relief the gears look absolutely brand new!! i quickly looked over the shift forks and there isnt any visible damage, after school ill take a look and post some pictures, what should i start checking over to find why the shifter is stuck? thanks guys

>2 L28s
>2 I6 engines
>fit an I8

user, I think you went full retard.

Or was it me?

lol the first part is to express how big the engine bay is and i really like inline 8s and they'd fit perfectly in that engine bay

alright guys hoping for a supra fag to come save the day; it appears the tranny is stuck in reverse as the input and output shaft are spinning opposite ways, any ideas? from what i can see nothing seems to be out of place. in this picture you can see it should be in neutral its not

heres the gear set not a very good picture but they look good to me

>tranny spins freely from both sides
>input and output shaft are spinning opposite ways
So which is it?

i meant its not seized up lol they are definitely spinning opposite ways, what do you think it could be?

bumperino

Check the gears that connects to the reverse idler gear and the reverse linkage for problems.

after i removed the ball bearings that stop other gears from being selected it all freed up and i could shift to neutral and all other gears do you think those balls just got fucked up

Do they look damaged or deformed?