/classic car general/ - CCG
Wanting an AMC edition
>Post your classic cars and trucks
>Blog about electrical gremlins
>Pray to the carb gods
>Argue about Mopar vs ferd vs chebby
>Bench race cars and builds we'll never experience
Last thread hit limit so time for a new one.
Hopefully I can sell a couple of my cars and get a Rebel or Javelin for this spring. Maybe have it at the next Dirty Jersey meet.
Other urls found in this thread:
v8buick.com
slantsix.org
ebay.com
ebay.com
ebay.com
ebay.com
pickles.com.au
greenville.craigslist.org
we-crash.proboards.com
twitter.com
>Tony Angelo's drift Cuda
I hope drifting classic muscle cars becomes a thing
Can't wait to see that thing in action holy shit
>page 7
We need to incorporate more vape and swagged out stanced shitboxes to get some more traffic desu
You drift every time you turn in classic muscle.
I'm considering a handbrake after the holidays for extra fun
nah
Just install a proportioning valve on your front brakes. Then turn it all the way down.
every brake will be a hand brake.
I'm thinking of upgrading; anyone else done anything similar?
my ebay HEI has been working pretty good for the past 10 months.
that is one colorful ford
you have yellow spark plug wires too right?
How bad are 2.73s on a th350?
you better fucking BELIEVE IT.
SPAGHETTI WIRES ADD +10HP
I was thinking of a conversion kit, since I like the stock look and the distributor itself is fine.
What do you have to do to install one of those
Depends on the car; on my Chrysler, it might be a screw and a wire, or I may have to change the alternator as well.
On Ford products, you often have to replace the distributor itself.
>exhaust manifold looks white
>valve covers, water pump, oilpan are straight red
>heads and block are blue
>water neck is blue
>distributor is neon blue
>fan blades are yellow
>spark plug wires are yellow AND THE BOOTS ARE ORANGE
No but electrically, is it just plug and play or do you need an ecu or what?
That, I do not know. I don't think I need an ignition module, but I have a fair amount of research to do before I start changing things.
speaking of this, is there any point in using an MSD coil if your car already has electronic ignition?
hey guise
I bought a rebuilt edelbrock 1405 today
>for $120
did I do alright?
>also why does it say weber all over it
>did I do alright?
remanufactured or rebuilt? If the former i'll give it 60 hours of use before something breaks.
former. Dude showed up to sell it in his project though, '85 C10 with a 454 and an edelbrock 850.
I will crack it open some time this week to take a look tho
>something breaks
it's a carb famalam, what the fuck could break.
v8buick.com
slantsix.org
Honestly i would rebuild it now just so that you know for sure it's fine.
I guess the investigation will need to be done. Will post pics when it happens
it's a one wire HEI. Hook up the power and go. I chose that and later on a 1 wire alternator just for those reasons. I was so done with the wiring clusterfuck of 70's ford charging and ignition systems.
I had blue valve covers but they sat for too long on the shelf without any oil, so the insides were rusted to fuck.
also, you hating on the gray exhaust manifolds and spaghetti plug wires?
Keep fighting the Macdonalds fight.
fuck year
Kek
Would you have a link to the system you're using? If it's more than a hundred though I'll probably just go with an 85 mustang manual trans distributor and an msd blaster coil
i think i just searched up ebay for (motorsize here) HEI. I paid something like $60 for the thing.
summit also sells one wire conversion alternators for fords, for i think $100
Looks good but will that work with a hydraulic roller cam?
>open up duster
>water on the floor
great
Heater core m8
How much of a performance difference can you see between spreadbore and squarebore intakes? I want to get a crate engine with spreadbore because muh small primaries for economy and muh big secondaries when I need them. Everything I see out there is squarebore and I'm afraid to ask a builder for spreadbore because I don't want to look like a dunk ruining a good engine.
it ain't even plugged in. Think the door seals are leaking.
oh
you
Kek I know that feel. At least the ferd has a step up from the bottom of the door jam so that doesn't happen. Windows don't seal tho
Need a body shop pronto
Thoughts, 1969 Dart for project car?
I had in mind 392 hemi for it.
Just playing with the idea of getting muscle this time.
no idea. the dist gears are removable though. So I'd just go with any one the cam maker recommends.
I just got quoted 200 flat to get the heater core installed and plumbed in my truck. Think that's reasonable?
Good idea. Hope long have you had yours?
New 392 or first gen hemi?
Either would be badass. The old one is easier.
see
It's just a chevy HEI top end with a ford bottom end, considering it's all OEM besides the body itself, I don't see much of anything that can go wrong.
How much would it be to shorten the frame to a shortbed? Or would it be easier & cheaper buying a new bed kit and finding a shortbed frame and swapping?
Bought this today. Am I part of the club now?
Nice. I'll call the company and see what they say about roller cams. That option might be cheaper than a factory distributor and upgraded coil
M O R E
O
R
E
Don't have much, it's nighttime and I came home a while ago.
Bodywork isn't the best. Going to take my time with it.
The engine is another story, though. It's goddamn loud and the cam makes the whole car shake. I believe it's a 280 lift but I'm not sure. It's in great condition.
Stupid phone flipping images. Here's another one.
Whole thing cost me $2,700.
Should I buy an '82 AMC Eagle SX4 with the 4.2 I6 and manual trans as my daily driver?
>110HP 4.2L Straight Six
>AWD with RWD mode
>Liftback coupe body style
>13.2s 0-60
Guys it's basically an underpowered AWD Mustang.
yes. Then swap the head and cam from an early to mid 90's Jeep into it to get about 140-150hp
>turd.5 gen
into the trash
Just kidding, that actually looks pretty nice, is the bumper pulled in?
...
yes. but watch for rust because that shit will fuck those old AMCs up nyukka
why does the carb look to be backwards?
because it is.
I'm not routing the damn fuel line all the way to the other god damn side.
which carb is that? and can I buy the middle main plug and the air filter bolt separately?
440. You gotta do a 440.
just a run of the mill edelbrock 600cfm. and yes, you can certainly buy either of those two things at any hardware store.
really? like the plug that goes into the back of the carb in the middle, opposite of the vaccum exits?
One of these? Yes. In fact harbor freight actually sells like a 100 pack of various sizes of these things for under $10.
They're useful.... for things...
the other thing you're looking for is just threaded rod.
Speaking of 440s, anyone have any ideas what I should do with the one in my Imperial?
I was thinking of running an Edelbrock 1411 carb as a start; at least, until I pull it for a proper build after I address the interior.
FWIW, it's a rare 1966 TNT 440.
that ac pump is monstrous
also remove original intake and carb, and just put an aftermarket massive dual plane and thermoquad or something in that bitch
good to know
>mfw used to work at a hardware store
>employee discount still good
>can get misc hardware for dimes on the dollar
neat
Just for reference, this plug is just a drain plug right?
I'm still on the hunt for a garage to rent. Does anybody have any suggestions other than craigslist?
it's a plug for anything. anything you can imagine.
>storage shed
useful for much more than winter car storage senpai
Am i spending too much for this Kingswood?
pickles.com.au
I have 2300 on it at the moment, i think i went a little overboard due to nostalgia since my dad used to own one.
no but in this application removing it drains the float bowl.
that thing looks hammered
I store one of my cars in a storage unit that I rent. the 260 a month I spend is worth it for the peace of mind.
...
Ah, I mean a garage to work in, fully restore a car, I've already got one for storage. I should've clarified, my bad
New 392 would be nice but with no previous experience with engine swaps and I'd need new garage I think I'm going to pass. Bit too early for a money pit project, I think I'll just shorten my mortage and go for a reasonable project.
My Maverick had a leak in the windshield weather strip.
Not yet but I'm planning to, the stock look makes it look more bloated than it already is.
Wew no shit, looks like its tucked in at that angle. What motor's in it? 350?
btw good luck with it senpai, and welcome to the club
>he doesn't have ceramic boot wires
350, yeah. It's in great shape.
Even if you end up rebuilding that 1405, not a bad deal at all.
So I'm really liking the idea of a boosted 5.3. I would leave it n/a for awhile though, can't imagine it making less power than the 350 now so I wouldn't be in a rush.
Although I do have some questions that I am far to embarrassed to ask because of how retarded they are, retaining to the ECU and tuning, I'll figure them out after more reading but I'm pretty fucking enthused right now, haven't felt this way since I first got the car.
I couldn't tell you what I've learned so far about this shit but I'm feeling a lot more confident about it now, its not as scary as I thought it'd be but I'd say I'm still a retard
not that i'm aware. I believe it was a vacuum port.
Either one is going to be a pain in the ass. A bodies are not built for big motors. One you just have the added complexity of fuel injection.
I'm pretty sure modern hemis still use the same bolt pattern as old mopars though.
Neat. Thanks for the tips this will help make the build a little bit easier. I think I'm just going to go with an inline electric fuel pump instead of a mechanical one.
you'll need to run a fuel pressure regulator in that case.
Even if it is a low pressure?
yes. even if the box says 6 psi, more often than not it's underrated and the pump will cause too much pressure, which will overcome the needle and seat, which will flood the carb.
Not to mention, A first gen Hemi block is going to be expensive and hard to find. IIRC they were only available on Chryslers, no Dodge, Plymouth, or Desoto.
Good to know. Isn't it a pita to convert a windsor without a mechanical fuel pump to use one?
Every Mopar manufacturer had a version of the first gen hemi
Desoto had their own hemi hence the Firedome model name. Dodge had their own aswell the Red Ram
Plymouth didn't have their own first gen. They got stuck with the Polyhead V8
>Drive corvair in the rain
>ass feels like it's going to slide out any minture
>park
>steam billowing out of rear wheel wells
Hektik af
Regardless, they're unobtainium, i've looked myself and if i found one, a bare block has an astronomical price tag
>greenville.craigslist.org
Good lord, anyway i never bother looking on CL because it's dependent on local stock.
>I never look on cl
Literally everything is on Craigslist. Even boomers accept Craigslist as the go too
A lot of times the shit i need isn't on there but usually ebay and then you can ship things on Ebay.
tfw even junkyards are drying out of classic cars
>tfw even junkyards are drying out of classic cars
This hits me in the feels more than you can imagine
The thing that pisses me off the most are demolition derbies.
They are so triggering:
we-crash.proboards.com
I know a dealership that crawls around junkyards for classics and then tries to sell the heaps for fat stax.
Stop killing me Dracula
My heart sank when I lost out on buying that grey 1966 Imperial Le Baron; not the standard crown like I'm currently driving, but one of only 1,878 Le Barons made in 1966 that was a rust-free survivor until it was shipped to the UK just to be destroyed...