QTDDTOT!

Hello Veeky Forums,

Today while parking I accidentally scraped someone's car. They were inside the parked car. I offered to pay in cash, but I'm wondering if it would be wiser to let the insurance cover it? I also got into an at-fault collision accident a week ago, so my insurance rates already went up a bit.

Thanks.

Realize the fuel filter and fuel pump are as different as your gfs hand and her asshole. Guess which is a lot harder to get in to?

That said, you don't like the shop, take it fucking somewhere else. Explain what happened, don't just say fix the fuel pump, say they fixed this and now it whines, we're going in a long trip etc. Don't say anything about what the other shop quoted or what they said was wrong, just what they did and what happened. And see what they say.

There are shops/mechanics that aren't trying to rip you off, but instead of diagnosing a problem will just guess and throw part after part at it until it stops. That's probably what you got into and welp fuel pump is just the next thing to randomly swap.

Also, pic is the scrape. It is just the big scrape down there, not the little thing right above the wheel.

Offer cash, find out what they want. If they want 1000 burgers tell them to fuck off and let THEM go after your insurance. Your only reason to be proactive is to keep it off your insurance, if they don't bite for a reasonable amount just kick back and wait for the letter.

Thanks. What would be a reasonable amount? It looks like the only damage is in one area, so it's not like they'd have to replace multiple parts (correct me if I'm wrong), and the car was a KIA, don't remember the model or what it looked like really (I think it was a minivan), but judging by the tires you can tell that it wasn't new or anything.

How do I understand how engines work, and ultimately work on my own car?

I drive my own car for a delivery service (pay is okay), but I don't know how to wrench my Accord 97 given there's a problem.

Don't be afraid to start and just do it. Get it diagnosed and then use YouTube to your own advantage.

Its also nice to have a second car for when you're working on one, so you never do a rushed job.

And preventative maintenance is a lot better than after the fact. Start with simple projects like an accessory belt, oil change or antifreeze change, or alternator, or disc brakes.

The tools are the highest barrier to entry, about $100 for a breaker bar, complete enough socket set, and a jack with jack stands from harbor freight, but there will always be minor shit to get in the way to complicate your project.

My dad broke his Focus again for the billionth time, and I'm on car-buying duty.

Problem is, he's the type of driver that completely beats on a car until it stops moving and has no concept of preventative maintenance no matter how many time it's drilled in.

What vehicle with 4 seats can handle a metric fuckton of on and medium off-road use and survive with only minimal preventative maintenance? Preferably smaller, ~$10k USD and 2005 and newer.

get him a 90's Taurus
>mfw unkillable vulcan

or a rav4 or something like that

I was considering RAV4s, but pretty much every 10000 post autist on the RAV4 forums seems to recommend against offroading the newer (2000+) ones because they're just dressed up Corollas.

Is that a concern for light off-roading (he takes his car to many remote national / state parks not true off-road trails)? I never see those breaking in Rallycross, but my stock Fit hasn't either.

I honestly cant decide which of these knobs i want.
I feel like the polished one will get scratched but it looks a lot simpler/cleaner than the one with carbon accents.

The coolant temp gauge on my GF's 06 Torrent fluctuates from 1/4 to 1/2 in under 10 seconds. Sometimes at idle the heat blows cold air. Yesterday it blew cold air for a bit then it stayed hot. Could there be a coolant leak somewhere or does she need a coolant flush?

I know sandpaper gloves are comfy, but don't wear them and it won't get scratched

the right shift knob feels very plasticky. Also what car is it going onto? If its a G/Z platform car with those huge shift boots and you need an adapter, the supplied (rubber) adapter will literally melt in the summer.

Not to sound like a shill, but I use one of the Z1 motorsports aluminum shift knob finisher doohickeys.

Its going into a 96 maxima.
Im keeping exterior mods light and just focusing on things that make the driving experience more pleasant. first step is to replace the 20 year old knob and boot, so im looking at nismos

the top corners of the CF nismo one I have are worn, but I got it second hand. It'll get warm/cold depending on the climate but not as bad as metal shift knobs.

I like polymer shift knobs (I've got 6 or so total) in the winter and summer. I'd recommend the PW:JDM acetyl copolymer shift knobs if you're roughly after the nismo shape.

pic is the 370z ones with the boot transition flare. you can get them without.

What is camry

Interesting.
I think ill pick up the polished nismo, and if i feel like the weather is really fucking with me bad enough ill pick one of those up.
pic related (+20 years of use/sun bleach) is what i currently have on the car

bodywork rates vary widely, call a few places
>just some scratches, should be less than $250

replace the thermostat, coolant flush while you're doing it

camry is car

What car is this?

Low on coolant

Camry is love Camry is life

MV1 they're usually wheel chair vans or taxis.

So with a turbo I can have tuning presets to lets say 0%, 25%, and 50% hp over stock.
I'm guessing there's no way to do similar with a supercharger because there's no way to vent away all the extra air.
Is this correct?

If it matters, what I'm thinking is the ability to have a way to set a "performance" mode with all the extra power and a "stock" mode for driving in traffic and not wasting a shitload of fual.

The MV-1 was a purpose-built taxicab designed by Vehicle Production Group and built in Mishawaka, Indiana at an AM General plant The name is an acronym for "Mobility Vehicle 1". It was intended to replace the planned Standard Taxi, and like that car it was developed in collaboration with AM General.
It's got alot of parts from the ford panther platform

You change pulley sizes to alter the boost level

but that's a mechanical solution, not something you can have preset in the car and change from inside with the push of a button.

Say I get a new car, I'll use a mustang GT as an example. To get the wheels I like I have to select the California Special package, but I don't want the package.
So I get the car with same size wheels, buy the CS wheels separately and swap them out.

How much could I realistically sell the stock wheels I don't want for? (as in how far off from full price)
Is there a way to sell them back to Ford or a dealership, or am I stuck selling them to a 3rd party?

Similar question: same scenario but instead of wheels, it's another component like coilovers or a differential

So I drive a 2005 Honda Civic SE (Canadian model, it's basically a DX model), and this morning after cleaning the snow off my car and going to store it in the condo garage I decided to Hoon in a nearby parking lot. While I was fucking around I ended up doing a drift that turned me 180 and basically put me to a stop. While I was turning I was feathering the throttle trying to control my hektik skkkid and I ended up stalling before coming to a stop somehow. I turned my car back on and I saw my check engine light was on, the car drove normally and didn't seem like it had anything wrong with it, although there was a burning smell after I got out of the car, almost like oil or something rubber possibly was burning.

I'm going to bring it to my mechanic sometime in the next few days. What do you think could be the problem or cause of the check engine light?

I'm still pretty car retarded but the internet taught me pretty much everything I know. At first changing my oil or fixing my power window I would watch a YouTube video, later I was able to do it myself even when I got a different car. Obviously wrenching is the best way to learn to wrench. I know you probably could only afford to have one car, but if you had a second car it's easier because you won't be afraid to fuck up your only means of transportation.

Would it be OK if I only put snow tires on the drive wheels of a 2WD car?

I'm not an expert, but I'm pretty sure its fine if you do front wheels of a FWD car, but I wouldn't do it with a RWD car especially since you need traction for both steering so you don't understeer and you need traction for your drive wheels so you can actually get moving.

Order a obd scanner off Amazon it's like $15. Even if you do need to end up taking it to a mechanic at least you will have some idea of whats wrong so he doesn't fuck your supple asshole.

Yeah the [spoiler]manual said if you wanted to know what's wrong with the car to check the codes and shit[/spoiler], didn't know they were that cheap. Thanks dude.

If it's too hot to open with your hands, use your teeth.

>Realize the fuel filter and fuel pump are as different as your gfs hand and her asshole. Guess which is a lot harder to get in to?
I like you.

If you're one of them "reading" types, pick up the same book the mechanics have to study to get licensed.

Automotive Technology, A systems approach.

Luckily for you, you're not trying to get licensed, so you won't need the current edition. You should find older editions for dirt cheap out there.

Toyota makes vehicles that can be abused like that and still work reasonably well.

Or, you could just leave him to his devices so he learns his fucking lesson.

>almost like oil or something rubber possibly was burning.

Then there might be something like oil or something rubber was burning.

We're mechanics, not fucking psychics.

Yeah, if you want to do some sick slides around corners.

Even better idea, go put some old baking pans under your rear tires and keep the handbrake on. That'll make it even more fun!

Well then learn to go light on the throttle, or get a tunable ecu to have switch points that limit the throttle

Why are hot tyres grippier than cold tyres?
Also, if a tyre gets too hot, does it start to lose grip?

Veeky Forums I've a 08' dodge avenger with old fucked up rims on it, I've discovered that one of the wheels has a fucked up lug-bolt

Would anyone be able to direct me somewhere that concisely explains how to replace a lug bolt, I know the bolts are like 4$ a piece.

The service manual says my coolant requires a special tool and pressure to flush and change. Can I trust an independent shop to do it right or do I go to the dealer? I can't really fuck with it on my own right now.

Also the TSB for the coolant says it's designed for 7 years/105,000 miles, I've got a year and 150000 miles before I get there. Do I even need to change it if the car is driving fine and the coolant temps are well within spec?

I'd wait until its recommended to change it, and or when you have time.

Why are you worried about your coolant, has it changed color?

You don't have bolts you have studs.

Generally the process is remove wheel, pound out the stud, press in new stud, which may or may not require tools

yes and somewhat yes, heat makes the tire softer which also means it shreds and wears more easily.

Car audio fags:

Bought a car that already had a 4ch 1000W amp installed. I haven't pulled off the doorcards to check but at the amp it appears to be wired to the 4 door speakers, but the amp itself isn't actually connected to the head unit.

I want to put a 10" free air sub in the parcel shelf for at least some kind of low end.

So what should I do with my 4 channels? 2ch to the sub and 2 to the front speakers? Or do I run 2 to the amp and split the other 2 between all four speakers?

Ok Veeky Forums so engines lose power over time what can i do to regain the lost hp and make it run like the first day it got out of the factory or should i just go for a full engine rebuild?

Well the car manual says change it at 90k, which I'm very close to and is a big maintenance milestone for the model. I'm trying to determine what I can handle, what I should have a garage do and what I can skip/delay.

And no color change, it's as blue as ever.

Will a mk1b MR2 front lip fit on a mk2a? My front metal bit is rusted as and I'd rather have the plastic lip.

Engine rebuild is about all you can do to make it run like new. Engines lose power because they become slightly less efficient as seals wear and tolerable gaps widen, for which there is no fix except in cleaning the block and replacing the worn parts.

Keep in mind that if you're asking this question an engine rebuild is probably beyond you, and that there's no such thing as a "cheap" rebuild even if you DIY.

alright sooo two questions

>what does Veeky Forums think about K&N?
just ordered an air filter by them online, and bought an oil filter earlier at the store. (they didn't have the right air filter for my car at the story, just fyi)

>engine light popped up
>firestone says i need a new catalytic converter
>what do?
i'm not going to pay $500 out the ass for something that might not need to be replaced, and i plan to take it to someone else to inspect before making a move

Do ECUs work, and do they void warranty? Or more specifically, if something fucks up, would anyone ever know there was an ECU on previously if you take it off?

Talk to a custom exhaust shop about replacing the cat. I have no doubt the part + labour will be cheaper than $500.

I hooked a battery charger up to the wrong terminals like a retard. How fucked am I? The charger was set to 2A.

Hey Canadians, what sites do you use to buy/sell your cars? I already checked Craigslist for my city (Vancouver), anything else?

How does a automatic transmission behave when you spin out in a failed drifting attempt? Does the torque converter "clutch out" or do you have to put it in N really quick in order to avoid damage?
I drove manual all my life, my next car could have flappy paddles tho

usedvancouver.com
kijiji.com

Should I go with silver/chromed wheels on my red car or black/white (not both, either). Should I go glossy for B/W if so or matte?

what the christ fuck are you even trying to ask here?
why would an automatic spinning out be a problem exactly?

Because I assume it would damage the transmission if you do a 180 and "roll backwards" with the transmission trying to stay in gear.

Where do y'all work on your car if you don't have your own garage? My friends don't own a garage either, as we all live in condos/apartments.

Anyone here familiar with Chevy Silverados? I replaced the parking brake intermediate cable and now on my dash I have a flashing brake light. Does this sound like a parking brake pedal sensor being dead? I'll take it to autozone and have them pull the code, just curious if anyone has a general idea beforehand. Thanks

it won't damage the trans. rolling backwards puts the same forces on it that accelerating forwards on it would.

the torque converter 'clutches' by using a fluidic coupling to transmit the energy. Go watch a youtube video or three on how torque converters work.

I dunno why I refer to them as studs.

Either way, would you know of a guide online specifically for avengers?

Or is there another car wheel disassembly I could look at due to commonality?

I've got -some- tools but I'm unsure if I've got enough to get the job done.
>Changing wheel stud out in 30 degree weather.
>Fug.

Question set 1:
Why don't we get crossplane i4 engines in cars? What are the pros and cons of a crossplane engine over flatplane one?
Question set 2:
Can I switch oil viscosity in my car from 5w40 to 5w30 (assuming it meets same manufacturer norms)? Car in question is e60 530d, 550 kkm, it was always on 5w40.

i know ist quite noobish, but how di i check my oil?
like, at cold or hot engine? while running or turned off? should it sit some minutes after it turned off or something?

well by typing this in i remembered that i could read the car Manual.
anyhow, ist a 327 v8 from a 67 impala

Check the cable where it meets the pedal, in my chev you have to "pull" the cable up so it meets the sensor(switch). Otherwise if you use the ebrake or touch the pedal the dash light stays on since the cable has come down and doesn't have the spring to push itself up to meet the switch.

Kinda hard to explain.

>crossplane I4
balance and torque delivery would be fucky.

>oil viscosity
check your owner's manual. there should be recommendations in there. for a modern engine in winter 5w-30 is probably what you should be running but don't take my word for it.

doesn't make too much difference if it's hot or cold. engine should always be off. wait 10 minutes after shutting the engine off before checking.

I would check it warmish, depending on temp.

I let it run up to temp then wait 10min or so.

alright. thank you both senpaitachi

Is a 1989 5.0 Mustang LX too much for a relatively new driver? I've been driving for a bout a year now but the most powerful thing I've ever driven is my mom's V6 Toyota Avalon.

The only problem I have with it, I think a car with a 4.9L V8 and RWD is a recipe for disaster for a relatively inexperienced driver. Although I feel I have better judgement, and wont be trying to burnouts leaving crowded parking lots or crashing into crowds. I'm just looking for a fun daily driver that I can learn to wrench on when the time comes.

To be honest I'm much more interested in this 1990 Honda CRX also on Craigslist, but the seller told me he had someone coming to look at it on Tuesday and hasn't said a word since even though he said he would keep me in the loop

Dude... it's a 1989 V8. Off the factory line it put our like 225hp. Unless the engine has been rebuilt recently, it's not even touching 200hp anymore.
Your mom's Avalon puts down more power than that.
Also that mustang is like a 3200 lb car, so the Avalon is even going to feel more powerful based on power to weight ratio.

ill check it out, thanks

Not familiar with dodges but it's generally the same, you'll have to take out the brakes which I forgot to mention.

If you google hard enough you might be able to find a factory service manual.

Rent a storage unit big enough to park your car

Yeah thats true, I didn't think about how almost 30 years of use has weakened the engine.

Also, I just talked to the guy. He says the biggest problems it has are the CEL coming on at 2000 rpms and then shutting off and the cruise control not working. Any ideas on what the cause of the CEL might be?

No it doesn't and it's difficult to drift in an automatic, as you can't clutch kick.

>being this degenerate
my sides

Have you checked Ebay or other such websites?

Yea, the parts I saw had way more use on them than "just rolled off the production line" so not exactly representative of what I'm trying to do.
A lot of the forums I looked at you had to register to see the classified sections.

>can i sell parts back to the dealer?
not likely, maybe if your parts are immaculate. you will never see anything close to MSRP
>can i sell parts on craigslist/ebay?
yes and you will see a better return
>be willing to haggle on CL

Maybe try finding websites that sell OEM parts and try to get the price from there. As an example: fordparts.com.

How long? You may have fucked the battery and reversed it's polarity

Should I buy a bike when i dont have a car&house? Im living in netherlands and job grants me rented car and rented, shared apartment.
Prolly gonna change my job soon so ill be w/o real car.
Was thinking about honda shadow 750

So long as you have a place to do maintenance you should be good, but dding a bike is not fun.

dding a bike? If you mean riding, then you should explain further.

Daily driving/riding, it sucks after awhile, I've had to do it before when my other vehicles were out of commission

Possibly checking out a car for sale on saturday. Only problem is its standard and I have little experience with that. I can stop and start but I've never actually driven. What are some tips to help me not make myself look like an idiot?