QTDDTOT

Didn't see one and I have a frickin question
What is this on my rims and how should I clean it off?

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youtu.be/xzg0BCmZbDU
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Looks like paint flaking off. Wire brush it.

i have a full set of 99 s10 4x4 wheels, no pitting or staining, all yours for 20 bucks

gotta come to canada to get em tho

Paint is flaking off, uncovering the primer beneath

Damned impressive that they dont seem to have any rust yet, and as such it'll be way easier to clean and repaint them

I'm a good distance from Canada so that's a no go
What do I repaint them with?

>What do I repaint them with?
Paint.

Wheel paint on a can

Clean them with a wire brush attached to a drill, get them sandblasted or similar. Then put some good steel primer on the clean metal before rattlecanning it with the color you wanted

Its a fucking shitty process to clean them with a wire brush, and rattlecan paint never really looks good unless you are very skilled with it and use high-quality ones

most likely alloy wheels, not rust but corrosion

I've had good luck with Rustoleum, but then again I live in Arizona where road salt doesn't exist

So found the cause of my exhaust leak. Can this be repaired or should I replace the muffler. It's an 02 Malibu so I don't want to be spending too much money.

Just buy a glasspack for like $30

How to do a door alignment at home besides bending the frame of the vehicle down and try to make a better seal

Buy the appropriate spacer shims

Can these reduce windnoise in regular doors?

if its already fit right, no

maybe you should replace the seals ( if it used to be quieter )

if not then that's just the way they are.

How to reduce wind noise in regular doors?

looks like corrosion, you need to grind it back with drill attachments then primer and paint

Like

Said, fucked weather stripping

Thanks for the advice.

I had that problem in my truck, if the door moves up and down when it's open, check the door pin and bushings,they may need to be refit/ replaced

door alignment?
my driver's side door closes all the way but the passenger has a 2mm creak between the back door and the front door when i close it. that's definitely the cause of the issue.

>should I replace the muffler
cut the rusty bitch off and put str8 pipe
>+5HP

Those are "wheels", friend.

They're called "tyres" friendo

Do you europoors really call these "tyres"?
A tire is the rubber part you put around the wheel, pal.

THIS is a wheel, Amerikek. The tyre and rim put together

Adjust the door striker.

>Lectures someone on terminology
>calls a wheel a rim
okay nigger

We had a thread about this not even a week ago.
Google is your friend, Tyrone

* ate my image

Would it be possible to put a manual transmission into an SUV or are there just some things you can't put a manual transmission in?

buy a 2nd or 3rd gen 4runner and save yourself the hassle

Anything is possible. You can adapt any transmission to any engine with enough fabrication.
If your engine came with a manual transmission in another vehicle, it may be a bit easier for you than if it hadn't. You will likely need a new trans crossmember, new wiring for safety switches and whatnot, lengthened / shortened driveshaft(s), a hole in the floor for the shifter, unless your SUV has a suitable column shifter (which it most likely does not).
You may need to mess with the firewall and floorpan for clearance as well.

I just want a manual Durango.

It all does sound like a fun project though.

Do some research first.
Have other people done the swap?
Does the engine that's in the durango have a manual that can bolt up? Say, does the pentastar have a manual that's been behind it?
After you find all of that, then figure out how the shifter will line up; wiring, or adapting the wiring for the manual switches / sensors / ecu; then driveshafts, etc.

I'm guessing no to all but like you said, it can be done with enough fabrication. Also doesn't most almost all RWD transmissions run through the middle of the car?

Actually from the light research I've just done you can get some good parts from old dakotas that'll work pretty well.

yes, most if not all Front engined, rear drive cars have transmissions more or less centered.

So how hard can it be to line up the shifter?

Depends on where it is on the trans compared to the floorpan of the vehicle.
In some vehicles, you may need to pull the dash and massively fuck shit up, or some, if just comes up near where a floor shifter usually would.

Oh so just far far in the transmission would be from the flywheel?

Where in canada senpai. I got an s10 in vancouver

>passenger side wheel slammed into curb sideways at 20 mph
>wheel still appears straight
>loud knocking and squeaking sound when driving straight or making a right turn
>frequency of noise increases as speed increases
>no noise when turning left
>steering pulls strongly to the right

how fucked am I?

>>passenger side wheel slammed into curb sideways at 20 mph
>>wheel still appears straight

Nope

>>loud knocking and squeaking sound when driving straight or making a right turn

probably jacked up a ball joint. Worst case the control arm is bent too.

Unless we are talking about a solid-axle RWD, then the axle is probably bent as well.

It's a FWD shitbox.


>probably jacked up a ball joint. Worst case the control arm is bent too.

Is this something that should be taken to a repair shop? Or can it be done DIY with a procedure and basic tools?

comox valley

Ive wanted to sell my s10 for six years, but I just drove it today and its a absolute beast in the snow. I passed a stuck full size chev by driving through the ditch around him

I'd hit them with some proper wheel degreaser, scrub the fuck out of them with a bristle brush and see how they turn out. If they're covered in paint, either have them media blasted and paint them or wire wheel/sand and paint, don't forget to clear coat.
They look like a bare metal wheel though so if that's the case and oxidize cleaner would be in order and probably need to sand them down by hand to remove scaling and any pitting. Probably start around 200-300 grit and work your way up to 2000 if you want a mirror finish, or start low and get the shit off them back to all metal then go over with something like brillo pads for that brushed metal look, you'll want to clear them to prevent it again and keep them nice.
Tldr the cheap fix is clean and paint. The correct way is time and effort and hand work.

In a way. The shifter doesn't come up fron the transmission in the same place for every trans. in some, it may come up only a few inches from the end of the tailhousing, other times, it may be a foot forward.

That's another thing, you'll have to swap your flexplate for a flywheel.

Ah, i see. A bit of a drive then
My s10 has been an absolute champ.
9000 km in 3 months, other than an oil change and topping up coolant after a road trip i havent had to do a single thing to it.

I've pulled out 3 people in this last bout of snow, havent been stuck once. I love my little truck

I fucked up

how to fix without paying 500+?

1 hour with some clay should buff right out, wax and youre done

I got snow tires and have started putting some extra weight in the trunk for more traction but what other things can i do to improve snow traction in my RWD car?

Not much else really, unless you want to invest in a LSD (if your car doesn't have one alread)

Now; you train

can someone recommend me wheels that are light and cheap?

Alright Veeky Forums is gas any different from the companies like chevron or am i being jewed out and gas is all the same?

You're being jewed, to an extent.

The difference is the quality of their holding tanks. A Chevron or QT or Circle K will have clean fuel but Cletus's Pump 'n Scoot might not.

I see thanks so the fuel might be contaminated what about chevrons claim about adding cleaning additives?

All fuel in the U.S. has detergents and whatnot in it. Chevron just puts more in so they can charge more.
If you're really worried about deposits go get a bottle of injector cleaner from a parts house.

>with some clay
You mean art clay/regular clay or is there some special clay or any links to any kits?

Can i trust amacco to replace my clutch , master and slave with out fucking shit up.

...

Does this oil look contaminated by coolant? Its full synthetic. Scared i got a cracked head.

thats some shitty toilet paper

Its paper towel brah

Fucking shitty american build quality bullshit.
I have a 97 blazer, the hatch actuator seems to not be getting any signal/power to open the hatch via the dashboard button.
I've already gotten the hatch apart, and the dash for that matter.
I have tested the actuator with an external power source, and it does it's job.
I have disassembled the dash switch, and that seems to be intact as well.
I have replaced the dome light and #2 fuse (Horn, dome light, and cig lighter(maybe idk about the last one for sure)), it should be the fuse that handles that.
All I can think is that the actuator isnt getting any power to it. I suspect a damaged wire, but it's 30F out and I don't care that much to fix it right now.
I was just hoping you guys could give me any ideas of what I could do that I haven't already.
Again, the actuator IS FULLY FUNCTIONAL, and the switch is presumed functional as well.

use the key?

Dog. How do you think I came to finding out shit was fucked? I tried putting groceries in the back, and whatdoyaknow, using the key only un/locked the other 4 doors. Except driver side front, but that's because good ol american build quality, it's falling off and only locks unlocks manually.

I bought a new car and in the owners manual it says it's recommend to use there engine and transmission Or is that just a gimmick for people with autism to get them to buy there shit? Should I just buy the other car oil brands?

>Lease Rav4
>Supposedly gets 24-32MPG
>Only getting 21 highway and 16 town

Can I break the lease and slap the shit out of someone?

I don't bother fixing shit like this, if it doesn't go down to metal it won't rust

No idea about the electrics in a 97 blazer, but if the switch is beefy and controls the actuator directly, you could just run a temporary cable under the rugs (fire hazard though!), and deal with faulty wiring when it gets warmer. If the actuator is controlled through a relay, check if the relay inputs and the relay itself are ok. If the actuator is controlled by the ECU and there's no signal on the relay input when you press the button, you're most likely in trouble.

kek

Ok Veeky Forums, I'm looking at a new car for 2017. Right now I've only really looked at and test driven the Fiesta st and fusion se, which I liked. Awd on the fusion felt pretty good.

My question is, wtf else is out there? It seems like everything is fwd and automatic nowadays, is that everything?

Get a smart car

But why

Best gas mileage, none of that "Oh it's good gas mileage only when you don't floor it" bullshit.

The gas mileage is as fucking printed.

It can go over 100 surprisingly which is fucking surprising in all honesty.

Everytime you get on the high way it's a thrill because you could die at any second

Women love to get rides in them, not so much be seen but, 11pm at the bar they are in fucking love

Get the Smart Car DO IT

The button is pretty dead fucking simple, the button pushed the copper bit down and completes a circuit. I'm not smart in electronics, I know basics. I don't know exactly what relays do.
But at least I know how an engine works mechanically lol.

There are BOSCH (think) relays under the hood. I'll look tomorrow. The suns down and I need to research what relay I need to be looking at. Thanks. Searching through forums is a pain in the ass, and none of what I found had my problem It was all about the actuator arm breaking or the fuses going.

Not that dude, but I have seen kits that literally double the power of Smart cars

Yeah but they lose the gas mileage

I recently changed my front brake pads cause they were squealing and the squealing hasn't stopped. It's at low speeds when I'm already breaking and ease off the brake pedal.

Forgot the image damn. Like I said, dead simple.

Smart car is the actual modern version of Takumi's 86. A rwd, manual, 80 hp hatchback that anyone could call a hunk of shit at first glance.

We need someone from Veeky Forums to do some hp upgrades and use the SC 42 to dominate togue races.

Except the 86 is actually fun to drive

Give them at least 1,000 miles before you get antsy

I've actually driven both of those vehicles; an old corolla (granted it wasn't the gts) I owned, and a smart car last year that belonged to a date. They are very comparable rides. Test drive one. I might get one as a 20k$ toy some day.

And yes, you CAN drift the smart car.

youtu.be/xzg0BCmZbDU

Dynamat, perhaps?

Sometimes it's hard to tell whether or not it got down to metal; if you have the time/patience, it's always best to keep your paintjob in decent condition.

Generally yes. Check reviews for your local shop tho.

Fun fact: I worked at Aamco for a few years, the owner swears the name stands for All Automatics Must Come Out. Because we never fix an automatic unless we rebuild it first.

I think it's a good idea to keep the factory engine and transmission in a new car.

Is the Land Cruiser better at off-roading than the Wrangler?

No

Yes.

I actually don't know that

Any noteworthy upgrades to a 2014 mustang? Can be anything. I'm thinking I'll be upgrading the stereo and then after that idk

V6 or V8?

If its V6 don't bother asking, just hang your head in shame.

depends which land cruiser and which wrangler.

No

No. You deserve it for driving a vehicle as cancerous as a Rav4.

other user is wrong, worst case is you fucked up the CV joint and need a new half shaft
>DIY with a procedure and tools
are you just stringing words together?
if it was the front, you should probably replace the CV axle (probably source of the noise) as well as the control arm/ball joint and have the wheel rebalanced.
the wheel may be too fucked and you have to replace it
>you should replace CV axles as a set
you could probably replace the control arm and CV axles by yourself, however you'll need a shop to balance the wheel and it shouldn't be too expensive

take the lead out of your foot and see if mileage improves

So I bought a trooper doesnt have a grille and I was looking at finding a replacement and found this: worldoemparts.com/worldsuzukisubaruparts/isuzu/trooper/8970906050/1995-year/s-trim/3-2l-v6-gas-engine/body-cat/grille-and-components-scat/?part_name=grille
if I order something like that replacement grille
do they usually come with only the bare grille itself or do they usually include any small parts it needs to clip/screw on? Ive never had to replace a body part before and im sure its simple enough but I dont want to waste my money.

I just bought a car and the clutch seems pretty stiff. I've driven manual before, but only on trucks and motorcycles.

Supposedly it was a "race" clutch. Would a "race" clutch make it stiffer/harder than a regular clutch? The engagement point also seems smaller compared to my dad's ranger.

Also, not sure if I'm going crazy, but it seems like it wants to crawl forward in neutral. In my motorcycle, usually that means the clutch isn't adjusted correctly. Probably a stupid question, just want to confirm since I'm used to doing maintenance on motorcycles, not cars.