Hey d00ds, installing an amp/sub in my car, already done speakers. Speakers are rated at 80w RMS...

Hey d00ds, installing an amp/sub in my car, already done speakers. Speakers are rated at 80w RMS, and the sub is rated 150-300RMS.

If I get the Rockford Fosgate p600x4, which states:
Rated Power
(RMS Continuous Power):
75 Watts x 4 @ 4-Ohm
150 Watts x 4 @ 2-Ohm
300 Watts x 2 @ 4-Ohm Bridged

I would only be running front speakers from the amp, and bridging the other two channels for the sub. Does this mean my front speakers are getting 75w, and my sub is getting 300w? I'm not sure exactly how this works.

Dont have that exact amp, but yeah, you should be able to set it up like that.

Get separate 2ch and mono amps unless you just enjoy being retarded

Yes that's exactly it, but check you can adjust the gain on the bridged channels separately to the front channels or it will be boom boom boom.

That's what I'm thinking of doing desu, was hoping to kill two birds with one stone though.

I do enjoy being retarded though.

Just get a 5 channel amp famalam. Excelon series from Kenwood is pretty good.

Clean power isn't what destroys speakers. It's distorted overdriving that causes the damage.

A quality amp driving 100W at 0.01% THD is better for the speakers than a crappy amp driving 50W at 0.2% THD.

Just saying. Watts =/= watts.

Also be sure your amp is well fed with proper power cables, and the same with the speaker wire. Your system is only as good as it's weakest link.

Only using 2 speakers and a sub though. Breddy sure I can't use 3 channels for a sub.

Correct, but my question is, will my sub be getting the 300w RMS, and my speakers getting 75w RMS, or not?

RMS power is the exact power output through the speakers

just keep in mind that speakers do go past that threashold so its important to know what the Peak power output rating of each speaker is

>installing an amp and sub
underage b&

>his music system is all treble
True pleb-tier honestly

>buying a car that doesn't have a good stock system

Wow, you're a complete fucking idiot if you think stock audio in any car under 55k is remotely decent. Decent being the keyword shitlord.

you can get tons of used mercedes and audis and acuras and lexus for less than 55k that have dank harmon/lkardon/bang&olufsen/ELS/mark levinson systems

On a side note does anyone know what amp would pair well with two JL audio 10W3V3s?

Quality audio requires some trade-offs, such as added weight for sound insulation, optimal enclosure size for low frequency drivers, diminishing returns for ever-more expensive speakers.

Any manufacturer will compromise on all of these instead of making the car more expensive & heavy to please only a certain miniscule subset of customers.

I recently switched out my shitty dual 12" ported subs for a better amp and a single sealed 15" sub. I wanna do a bootleg port most likely out the top with a PVC tube. I see no issues besides maybe the box being too small. the image in the top left is the exact box I have. I kinda like the idea of being able to put different extensions on it to find the best tune (I'll just use a PVC pipe with an open end to accept attachments.)
has anyone done a port this way? got a reason I should not?

Well ported subs are fucking terrible. My 2 cents.

You're not going to get what you think you'll get by just cutting a hole in your box and dropping a tube down it.

The recommended dimensions for ported boxes are larger for a reason

it is a 15" sub though I feel like it would benefit from a port. right now I can get to only 26 volume before it starts hurting ears and making cracking noises throughout the car like breaking glass.
it's doing a good 800-1000 watts rms and i think the sealed box is making it punch too hard.

yes

this