Didn't see a QTDDTOT thread so I started one

Checked.

Also it's in the bay area, and 335i's with 6MT are exceedingly rare especially in this condition so I'm not looking forward to walking away.

you won't be going anywhere without winter memes

I need grippy winter tires to break traction and do donuts?

winter wheels on the front so you can go sideways. don't need them on the back but i recommend you get some if you plan to go over 40

>335i's with 6MT are exceedingly rare especially in this condition so I'm not looking forward to walking away.

i don't fucking getting it, if the car is so rare why are you bitching that the seller wants a premium for the car ?

fuck blue book value, what matters is what cars in your area are selling for, not what some book says they should be selling for.

That makes sense. Thanks.

Should I be worried about doing some good slides and then suddenly hitting a "grippy" patch? Would that ruin my car? I mean obviously its better if I wouldn't slide around at all but are there serious risks I should take into account?

grippy patches are a cunt. i'm drifting a 1.8 ton car so there's no getting around them. they're not going to destroy anything that's not failing but like all abuse, it can wear down your suspension faster than usual

This, if you think you're making a decent offer on the car, tell him what you'd pay for it then walk away.

If he wants to sell the car bad enough and someone isn't stupid enough to buy it for what the guy wants then he call you back.

I've been driving an '86 Ford Ranger for the past month with no issues, until yesterday morning. I took a sharp turn going 10 mph to beat a yellow light and the rear passenger tire went over the curb and slammed back onto the street. Definitely a bit of a bump, but nothing I thought would end up doing harm. Immediately afterwards, I have trouble accelerating: I'd leave my foot on the gas pedal and it would just accelerate in bursts, dying for a second then going for a second, dying for a second then going for a second, and so on. When stopping at a red light, the engine would sound like it would be on the verge of dying, then it would pick back up again. Made it to the shop, went to work, got off work, got back to the shop and now it won't turn over. The ignition starts and all the lights work, so I wouldn't think it's the battery and I pressed the emergency fuel switch. Nothing. Yes there's gas in it, about half a tank.

So, what the fuck?

>2007 chrysler 300c 140k km 6500 euro
whats the catch? shouldnt they cost more? Is it a good car? I dont know anything about them.

what would you say is more important in a bug out truck, reliability or ease of repair?
more to that point, what's the most unkillable machine you can think of that doesn't rely on electronics to run? obviously decent off-road capability is important too
thinking of getting a "just in case" vehicle and sticking it in the back of my garage

Deuce and a half's fill all of those requirements but, damn if they're not thirsty.

Bad coil or ignition would be my guess.

Coils will work intermittently when going bad.

>ignition/spark plug wires.

I was thinking something more jeep-sized, not a gigantic cargo carrier
like an second-gen diesel Cherokee

KBB doesn't account for cultural and regional anomalies.
Market prices occur naturally not based on some book.

A horse..

No car is easy to repair when the network of tools and parts shuts down unless you plan on bugging out near a machine shop that's powered by solar.

I'm planning on changing my oil. Can I use the [emergency?] jack that comes with the car to set up the jack stands?

some old diesel, convert it to full mechanical

a diesel for sure. nobody will be siphoning large cargo trucks in a shtf situation.
i get you're preparing for a solar flare or emp since you don't want any electronics fucking your shit up. i dont think you can get an engine that's fully independent that actually runs good and has any fuel mileage, not to mention that it'd be noisy af and would tell people "hey look at this running car that's worth millions" so i'd get something that has electronics but keep an extra wiring harness with everything attatched and swap it out when the big boy hits. you want to practice doing this multiple times.

Well so blue book is fucking wrong and he does know what he's got

Fuel filter, you knocked shit lose in tank and it clogged your first filter. $10 fix

Good luck getting one in burger land.

My plan is to shoot the first guy I see with a nice bug out vehicle in the head.

Yes. Make sure you put them at approved support points. The e Jack sucks ass too, you should find a floor Jack on cl instead

Continuing this vane:

My 86 Hardbody literally has all it's electronics contained in a small metal box under the passenger's seat. Swapping it out is a 2 minute job.
Also, if you're expecting a big boom, you could just unplug it and stick it into a faraday cage.

However, from what I've read, most cars will either just need to be restarted or have the battery disconnected and reconnected.

Im a fucking retard. I have no idea how cars work. I'm an adult. This is embarrassing.

Where can I go to learn about cars? Just general exponential knowledge. Like, just, I wanna learn about cars, how they work, how engines work, what the different types of engines are, how other shit works, etc.

Whats the Twingo meme? Is it actually a good car?

lurk

howstuffworks

Doing that already m80

Good lookin out

>Just general exponential knowledge.
e^car = ?????

Buy a shitty, cheap beater.
Take it apart, put it together, fix it up.
Sell it for shekels.

Or just watch Youtube videos.

chrisfix on youtube can get you started but you will never have the confidence unless you've done the thing yourself.

parting out a car is the fastest way to learn though

Idiots around here keep using their high beams during heavy rain. Is this strictly wrong and how can I punish them for it?

>Is this strictly wrong
Yes. Heavy rain has the same effect as snow or fog. Low-mounted fog lights are best.

>how can I punish them for it?
Let them blind themselves and crash like the retards they are.

I have a performance car with 20 inch wheels on it and I read that a lot of owners of the same car run about 40psi in thier tyres, so I've been doing to same. It's come to my attention though that one tyre has a slow leak in it. Over about month (Mabey a tad longer) or so it dropped down to 26psi. The wear isn't all that bad on the tyres atm but is it worth me just buying new rear tyres? I just figure that the pressure dropping all the time could create more wear and I'm hoping that it doesn't go low enough to cause damage at some point (do leaks often get worse over time?)

Also should I just do the rear tyres together or is it really that important to do all four at once?

Low pressure will wear the outside of the tread more than the inside.
Is it worth buying new tires? Depends. Are they old? If not, just take it to a tire shop and have them fix the leak. Yes, leaks can get worse over time.

You don't have to replace all ties at one time, but sets of two or four is best. If you buy two, any tire shop worth a damn will only put the new tires on the rear. New tires are slippery and if they go on the front you'll end up understeering into a tree or something.
Oh and it's very, VERY important your drive axle has a matched set of tires on it. Mismatched tires do bad things to the differential.

Thankyou for the info my man, I'll check the wear on them again when I get back home (I work away) and of they aren't too bad I'll just see if they can plug the leak. To be honest I didn't even think of that as a solution. Much appreciated and I will definitely remember those other points.

bump

Thoughts guys?

lasvegas.craigslist.org/cto/5923109282.html

Kind of follow up to this post from last thread Would it be possible to tune a car with variable displacement engine (lets say V8) to run entirely as a 4 cylinder with a preset? I've seen people have like a 3 preset tune with Economy, Stock, and Performance, so essentially the idea would be to program the Economy preset to cut 4 cylinders at all times, even while accelerating.
e.g. if you're super low on gas and far away from a station, you could put it into the Economy preset and make it roughly twice as far.

Additionally, could this be combined with a turbo?
Using the same V8 variable displacement engine as an example, one preset would basically turn the V8 into a turbo 4 (like a makeshift Ecoboost or whatever is in the 4cyl turbo Camaro), another preset would keep it slightly above stock power (aka not taking full advantage of the turbo), and another could be the max performance tune and fully use the turbo to get to 650-750 hp.

Disclaimer: This is mostly just retarded theorizing so just humor me. Also don't be shy about telling me why the above ideas wouldn't work or would be retarded

When changing out spark plugs, how serious is the risk of overtightening them? Do I need a torque wrench or should I just gauge it by hand feel?

I'm not a power lifter or anything, I figured I would get them snug after applying anti-seize, but if I'm wrong please let me know.

Please never post again

great post!

Buying a used SC400 and went to the seller to sign the paperwork. While signing saw a bit of (what looked like) white smoke coming out of the engine. Obviously a little spooked because I'm somewhat new to cars. Checked it out 3 weeks ago and it was fine but heard from the seller that it hasn't been turned on since then, it even needed a start. Is this just something that happens when a car doesn't run for a little bit or is it something serious? The dealer said they would take it to a mechanic on Monday and see what it is.

With enough money any thing is possible, but what you're suggesting would be overly complicated and probably not reliable or easily maintenanced, as you'd have to have a very complex set of cams in addition to having a boost system that would have to be able to direct the boost charge to the pre set cylinders.

All of that would be expensive to r & d and produce as well, and as for the average Joe attempting it him self it would be impossible.

Yes you get condensation collected in the cylinders that are open to the air as well as gas that may have gone bad.

The engine will need an oil change and might not hurt to have the fuel filter changed, with some fuel cleaner additive thrown in for good measure

Get them hand tight then use a wrench for another 1/4 to 1/2 turn.

So what happened to all the vin threads? They used to be plentiful and now they are all gone. How am I supposed to get vin numbers run now?

>if you're super low on gas and far away from a station, you could put it into the Economy preset and make it roughly twice as far.

That's not how it works

>10ºF 2AM
>Walking to car
>Unlock, lock, and open trunk don't work
>Physical key doesn't unlock
>Sprint back inside
Why didn't it unlock? Worked ok today but I could feel the blood in my fingers slow
Honda Civic 2012 Deluxe

is it stupid to build an engine to use ITBs and E85 fuel while keeping the stock compression ratio of 9:1? I realize I could run probably 12:1 static CR with E85 but I don't have the means to increase CR nor money for custom pistons.

I'm not looking to build a high-rpm monster though, just doing cam + headers/exhaust + motorcycle ITBs + Megasquirt for fun.

>you'd have to have a very complex set of cams
why would it be any different camming than throwing a turbo on a V8?

>in addition to having a boost system that would have to be able to direct the boost charge to the pre set cylinders
This seems unnecessary because as the user in the previous thread pointed out, all cylinders would get boosted, but only the active ones would have fuel injected.

Seems like the most difficult thing would be needing access to the car's computer to be able to tap into the cylinder cutoff controls.

>using less cylinders doesn't use less gas
>variable displacement exists for no reason
yes, tell me more about that not being how it works. Or is your objection to me not looking up the actual numbers of the fuel savings and increased range.

>Why didn't it unlock?
Ice.
Or cold grease.

Same user from the other thread here.

>you'd have to have a very complex set of cams in addition to having a boost system that would have to be able to direct the boost charge to the pre set cylinders.

As for cams, look up the Koenigsegg "free valve" technology. I think they've actually put it into one of their cars now. With a system like that, the valve timing becomes a matter of programming the ECU. I actually can't think of a way to do it properly with normal cams.

As for the blocking of airflow, look up a dual carb intake. Now imagine the carbs are replaced with tubes coming from the intercooler, and that there is a divider between the two intake plenums. Now put drive by wire throttle bodies on it, and program it so that when half the cylinders drop out, one throttle body closes completely off, while the other opens and closes accordingly based on throttle input.

The technology to do this is all in existence already, some of it not very widely used yet, but it's there, out in the world and working. It'd just be a matter of combining all of it into a system that worked.

For an OEM, it would be entirely possible to sell a FI V8 that had an "eco" mode, where half the cylinders stopped receiving fuel, the intake and exhaust valves were both constantly held at wide open, and half the intake was blocked off, so that only the 4 active cylinders received fuel and air. The only real trick left would be to modulate the air flow of the turbo so that you didn't suddenly go from 10 psi of boost to 20 psi of boost, but with variable vane turbochargers, as seen in use on Duramax diesels since the mid-2000's, that also becomes a moot point.

Long story short, for an OEM, it'd be quite feasible. For a retrofit, you'd need some good connections to some odd companies, a lot of tools, a shitload of spare time, and more money than Bill Gates.

Does anyone know the quality of abarth?
I only found out about them the other day and thought they'd be good for teenage drivers because of the small engine size

>Fiat

I don't know much about cars but I know about "stancing".

I saw a guy driving in the snow (about 3-4 inches on the ground) with back wheels that were angled like stancing.

Is that only possible if you do it on purpose, or can cars "stance" themselves? Like something breaks or bends?

I'm just curious because driving in that snow with that car looks really dumb.

Anyone know what this "floating exhaust fiber ring" would be for? Came with my midpipe but it slightly larger than the gasket ring (which it came with a replacement of too). Is it a performance gasket ring?

Broken or worn linkages can cause wheels to go out of camber over time yes, but most of what you see on the road now is intentional.

>This seems unnecessary because as the user in the previous thread pointed out, all cylinders would get boosted, but only the active ones would have fuel injected.
>Seems like the most difficult thing would be needing access to the car's computer to be able to tap into the cylinder cutoff controls.

You don't seem to understand how cylinder deactivation works, in addition to fuel cutoff, the valves themselves have to change timing other wise the engine works against itself every time deactive cylinders pull a vacuum.

Nor do you seem to understand how boost works in conjunction with that.

Is onto something, but what he's proposing still is not cheap and will take time to work into the market

>You don't seem to understand how cylinder deactivation works
>Nor do you seem to understand how boost works in conjunction with that.
Obviously not fully, that's why I'm in here asking and learning.

>in addition to fuel cutoff, the valves themselves have to change timing
I get that, but the engine is already doing that stock. All I'm proposing is a way to essentially keep those cylinders deactivated at all times.
I'm not proposing this for an engine that doesn't already have the ability to cut 4 cylinders, if that's what you're thinking.

As for boost, if you can already boost a car that has variable displacement/cylinder deactivation (e.g. ZL1 Camaro), why would that suddenly be a problem in a system that would leave the cylinders deactivated rather than constantly activating/deactivating them?

cute hands user

Nigga why my car always be pullin to da right

Not sure how to fix a 2012 Mazda 6 headlight. Might be an electrical issue but I'm too big of a fucking faggot to understand what is going on. Whats my best resource to being able to fix it without having to go to a mechanic?

Steering box is fucked
Tie rods are fucked
Ball joints are fucked
Ambulocetus in passenger seat
Tire too small on right side

Pick one.

>mfw didn't realize vacuum line from TCV to wastegate actuator should be as short as possible
anyone else have tips from doing stupid shit?
>being retarded is how I learn

>implying anyone here knows anything
take some sicc pics and make your own thread filled with OC

Is it really true that warming up you're car when it's cold is actually bad for the engine?

What exactly gets adjusted during an alignment?

no

for a regular normie alignment, camber and toe.

Yes it's stupid.
Why the fuck do you want to use e85, literally pointless.

clean contact points
check ground
check fuse
replace bulb

You have very pretty hands, senpai

94 Impreza sedan 75k
These any good? Reviews say they aren't bad, I deliver pizzas would it survive?

looking for a new (to me) car. thinking about some awd now that snow hit.

>awd
>sedan
>manual trans
>american made

the problem is, american automakers only make their trucks and suvs with awd

pls help

AMC

denver.craigslist.org/cto/5896877082.html

I am very close to flying to Colorado to pick this up. What do I need to have done to the car so that I can legally drive it back to my home state (getting it registered there is another matter)? Concern is because it doesn't have any plates and the owner said it hasn't been inspected, I don't want to end up in the middle of the country 3k poorer with no way out.

There's the Taurus SHO and charger, but those are auto only.

Your info is vague too, price range? Are you looking for something sporty?
Also you do know american automakers are building cars in mexico, and jap automakers are building cars in america, "domestic" doesn't really mean anything anymore.

>non-wrx
>non-original engine
>no plates but yet clean title
>"runs great"
>flying to a different state to pick up that shitbox

Fucking dropped

Just save a up a little more and get a stock WRX.

less than 20k considering it's a used vehicle
just looking for a dd that can be used for some light fun on the weekends.

i want it "domestic" so that aftermarket parts don't cost me an arm and a leg

The closest thing I can think of is a Focus ST. Yeah its a hatch but you still have four doors and yeah its FF but still plenty of fun. Decent aftermarket too. If you want domestic just for cheaper parts subaru's have as big as an aftermarket as anything

i've test driven the st before, it's nice. but it's honestly just a step above my cvt versa

I like GC8 too much to get a real wrx, but I see your point

Are you sure it was an ST and not just a regular base model?

109 vs 252 horsepower is little more than step up senpai

i mean in terms of seating, drive, comfort, etc.

Idling for long periods Is generally bad, that's the premise, but it's not likely you'll see any repercussions from warming it up in the morning

because I can and it's a lot cheaper at the pump

Steering rods (the two long things at each end of a steering rack, pic related) have adjustable lenght.
By adjusting the length of the rods, you can "steer" the wheels so they are aligned properly.

When you go for an alignment, they loosen the retaining nut on the rods, spin the rods themselves and make them shorter/longer according to what the alignment machine says, then they lock the nut again and you are good to go.

Most road cars don't have adjustable camber, but you can still change it a little bit by adjusting alignment because of the caster angle. Generally speaking, shortening the rods (so going for toe in or less toe out) increases negative camber by a tiny amount, while making the rods longer (toe out or less toe in) will give more positive camber.