Need help to understand my LPG system!

no one knows, we dont have that system here in the US.

legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/50-mpg-06-legacy-gt-cng-natural-gas-build-218910.html

>This will most likely have between 10-15% power loss while running on CNG but the software in the CNG ecu can be set up to seamlessly switch to gasoline when a certain engine load is achieved. The full power of the car will always be available, but it will run on CNG when cruising on the freeway or regular city driving, cutting my fuel cost in half.
>You cant tell when it switches between the two unless you full on goosing it, than it just fells like an extra turbo just kicked in.
>The problem I'm having with the boost right now is that the CNG injectors I have right now are the largest possible (Cng and performance haven't really been put together before) on my car and each injector maxes out at 60HP(per cylinder) so I'm maxing them out at high rpm.

Are you or the LPG system in question German?
I think the R is for 'Raumen' which is German for empty.
Need an actual German in here to verify that though.
That would explain why there's no light there, as it would only light up when it's out of LPG.

we actually do
they're just far and few between

Yeah, but what im saying is that you're unlikely to encounter anyone on here with the system.

Lots of government vehicles.
The police in Mesa, AZ had LPG squad cars for a while.

looks like you need to add 3 oils

I'm fucking dying fām

Pretty good.

But that's oil pressure and he should really be worried

The R is the low fuel indicator, there is a led above it that lights up when you are almost out of gas.

The problem you are describing is a common thing with LPG systems with some years on their back or that have been seriously neglected.

What is happening to your car is that past a certain engine speed and load, the gas pressure is too low to keep the engine running, so the system switches back to gasoline to avoid misfires and rough acceleration.

There may be two causes: one is a clogged filter, the other is a bad pressure regulator.

The first thing to do if you haven't done it already is to change the gas filter, it looks like pic related or like a traditional screw-on oil filter. It's cheap and easy to change, just keep in mind every filter like pic related is directional and must be fitted properly to ensure it does its job.

The pressure regulator may not be completely fucked, it may just be dirty so you can still manually increase the pressure using the adjustable screw on it to compensate.
I would seriously advise against doing this yourself, because you need a computer connected to the LPG ECU to see how far you are going with the pressure and avoid problems or damage.
What you can do is clean the regulator, but you first have to manually close the safety valve on your tank and bleed the gas left between the tank and the regulator, which is a dangerous procedure if not done in an open and ventilated area.
Once the regulator is off, submerge it in a tank with warm water and degreaser for a few hours, then rinse the shit out of everything and let it dry. When installing the regulator, use some thread locker on the small gas pipes going into the regulator. The small pipes are high pressure pipes and come from the tank, the big pipes are low pressure and go to the engine, they are usually just rubber pipes with clamps on them.

You can still drive your car without a regulator if you need, just make sure to keep the switch on gasoline.

Cont.

So first change the filter, see if the problem remains, then clean the regulator if the filter didn't solve anything.

A note on regulators:
Most of them need coolant from the engine to operate to avoid freezing (lowering the pressure on everything causes a drop in temperature, LPG will literally freeze your regulator if something doesn't warm it up), the problem you described is 99% not coolant related, but you should at least check how much coolant you have in your car and see if it's almost dry. Lack of coolant causes the LPG to randomly shut off so I doubt it has anything to do with the specific problem you have.

If nothing works, then you should bring the car to an LPG installer and have it diagnosed. A quick look with a PC to the pressure ranges of the system will tell if the regulator is fucked or can be saved.

There are other things that can go wrong, like injectors, but I don't think this is the case.

Oh, another obvious thing to check is the rubber tube going from the regulator to the fuel rail, it should be free to move and not be squeezed by anything in the engine bay or bent too much. Bottlenecks like those cause the problems you have.

Pic related is a pressure regulator, those come in many shapes and sizes, but all of them will have one small pipe coming from somewhere under the car, a big pipe going towards the engine, two water pipes and a tiny vacuum pipe. It's easy to spot.

A final note on LPG itself.

If you are anywhere in Europe, then you should know that many countries don't have a standard for the composition of LPG like they have for gasoline and diesel.

LPG is a mix of mostly butane and propane, with other stuff thrown in there. The butane/propane ratio is not standard and it can change from gas station to gas station. When winter comes, most LPG distributors change their ratio a lot (I don't remember if they increase butane or propane) to cope with lower temps and whoever knows what else.
This causes problems to the most sensible LPG systems and somehow is also correlated with the massive increase of dirty gas being sold around winter. Don't ask me why, it just happens, LPG is noticeably dirtier in winter and fuck me if I ever understood the reason.

So again, check your filter and your regulator and have your system retuned if you haven't done so in a while.

Oh, I almost forgot.

LPG is fucking dangerous.
It's not methane, it doesn't dissolve in air when you let it out, it just settles as low as it can and it concentrates there because it's heavier than air.

If you want to work with gas and plan on disconnecting some pipes (thus bleeding some LPG out) make goddamn sure the floor of your working area is ventilated and the whole place is open for fresh air.

There is a safety valve to close on the tank, close it every time you plan on bleeding some gas and KEEP IT ABSOLUTELY FUCKING CLOSED if you ever want to drive with some LPG component missing from the car.
The system doesn't know it's missing a filter or a pipe or the regulator, when it senses it's time to switch, it opens the tank valve and sprays liquid fire hazard all over your engine bay.
Tanks usually go in the 10-20 bar range, after the regulator it goes in the 1 - 2 bar for N/A engines, more for tarbos, so when it goes out, it goes out hard.

If you close the safety, no gas will ever go out of the tank even if the system is actively asking for it.

Be safe

For those interested in how LPG systems work, here is a good link.

remixbg.com/Documentation/?dir=/Manuali Inglese

The first, third and fourth docs are installation guides with detailed explanations of the components and their purpose. The second link is a tuning handbook meant for installers. Everything is in English.

It's the first link I found and it talks about a system that is quite outdated for today's standards, but was widely used up to 6 or 7 years ago and many of those kits are still rolling today. It can still give you a good idea of the basics of LPG systems.

The main difference with modern kits it that the new ones are CANbus compatible and can work with direct injection engines, plus the wiring harnesses are simpler and much more embedded in the stock wiring harness.

Enjoy