What are the disadvantages of the Celica Gt4

There was a 323 GTX in the scrap yard in my uni's autoshop yard.

Car's interior screamed 80s and it was cozy af too.

You're lucky, they're nice cars.

Move to a better province, job opportunities are endless in Ontario.

There's a bunch of R34s in my city that I see at meets all the time.

I will but first i need to finish getting my degree.
Im a first year in Mech eng. just finished my first semester.

I was planning on joining the Canadian Military right after.

Mine is pretty trash sadly, the interior is in great condition but the exterior has had it. Not to mention the gearboxes are made of glass in these things, and I got one right towards the end of its life. Blew on the second day I owned it.

She's pretty healthy now, but there's still a lot to do. Not sure if I should keep restoring it or just sell it off...

only in us.
Costs about same as mr2.

>man i really need an awd drive car... canadas winters are to harsh for rwd...
>also i dont want to buy a fucking subaru.
Why not Suzuki? Road Race Motorsports even made a turbo kit for the 2.0L engine.

So fucking lucky...
US never got em :'[

pigfat

Rare, parts are expensive, running them is expensive, things will break constantly.
They're a money pit only suitable for a project car, you want a daily then get a 3SGE FWD Celica.

Neither, we got a ford re-badge called the Laser TX3, which is good because it makes parts a bit easier, but yeah. Mine was imported from weebland

I always wondered if you could remove the driveshaft to make it RWD and easen the parasitic drivetrain loss on these?

There's 97 TSBs affecting the 94-99 gen, nearly all of them are useless. Exactly 4 relating to harsh brake vibrations and 1 for rust developing in the hubs easily.
Couple of wiring issues with radios too but nothing relating to the engines or drivetrains.

Like any old Toyota though just watch the rust and rot and be ready to rebuild everything regardless of mileage.

As usual with old JDM sports cars, there'll be a lot of random shit that makes it a pain in the ass or expensive, like headlight bulbs and shit needing to be JDM because different fit/tabs and 20 year old car needing random parts you can't get locally

Approaches Z32 300ZX TT levels in how hard it is to work on the engine.

Get a fwd you cuck

its a back up plan i have.
last plan is a vtec
and im going to have to find a very clean one...

why not ecotec?

is it awd ?

no. FWD. but the Ecotec engines are glorious and one of the best 4 cylinder engines on the last 20 years.

how much hp ? at this point if its not exceeding 250hp then its not worth buying a FWD car.

Also i really need a AWD because of canadian winters.

>at this point if its not exceeding 250hp then its not worth buying a FWD car.
>Also i really need a AWD because of canadian winters.

Both wrong.

saying its wrong... and not explaining ?

250hp is plenty to have fun in a daily driver, and winters are more about proper winter tires and driving technique, not the drivetrain.

are you telling me that if you have good enough tires that simply replaces the idea of a awd car...

250 or more is what i said.

The weakest Ecotecs (2.2L N/A L61) made anywhere from 135 to 155 HP.
The strongest are the newest ones that makes 270 HP bone stock (LTG 2.0L Turbo)

For performance, go for the turbocharged or supercharged cars.
Supercharged cars:
2004-2007 Saturn Ion Redline (2.0L, 205 HP)
2005-2007 Chevrolet Cobalt SS Supercharged (2.0L, 205 HP)

Turbocharged:
2003-2011 Saab 9-3 (2.0L Turbo, 210 HP)
2007-2009 Saturn Sky Redline (2.0L Turbo, 260 HP)
2007-2009 Pontiac Solstice GXP (2.0L Turbo, 260 HP)
2008-2010 Chevrolet Cobalt SS Turbocharged (2.0L Turbo, 260 HP)
2008-2010 Chevrolet HHR SS (2.0L Turbo, 260 HP)
2011-present Buick Regal Turbo (2.0L Turbo 220 HP-250 HP depending on model year)
2011-present Buick Regal GS (2.0L Turbo, 250 HP or 270 HP depending on model year)
2012-2016 Buick Verano Turbo (2.0L Turbo, 250 HP)
2012-present Cadillac ATS (2.0L Turbo, 270 HP)
2016-present Chevrolet Camaro (2.0L Turbo, 270 HP)
2013-present Chevrolet Malibu (2.0L Turbo, 250-260 HP)
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM_Ecotec_engine

Kill yourself....

no.

...

Yes. That is what he's saying. RWD with proper winter tires>fwd with all seasons and probably awd with all seasons

Hmm, in theory I suppose you could? Why is there drivetrain loss?

there is always power loss from the engine to the output of the transmission through friction and heat, then loss through the prop-shaft to the differential and from the differential to the wheels, again due to friction and heat.
Manual transmissions have less power loss through them than automatics, and FWD in general has less drivetrain loss than RWD or AWD due to the short distance between the engine and the driven wheels.
It should be noted that some MR cars like the Toyota MR2 and Pontiac Fiero use FWD setups in the rear so they have the same drivetrain loss as a FWD car.

>ehehehehehehehheheheheheh

Well yeah I knew that and all but, isnt it worth it for that AWD grip?

depends on your perspective.
Are you a soccer mom dropping kids off at soccer practice in the middle of the frozen Tundra?

frozen tundra canada quebec

are you a soccer mom though? Do you understand concepts such as these?:
>ice is slippery and requires extreme caution
>ABS will not save you. If the wheels stop rotating and slide on ice, you have no steering input whatsoever
>approach with caution and drive slowly
>using a good set of snow tires

If you are a soccer mom and those concepts are foreign to you, then yes, you need AWD, and to avoid the car hobby at all costs. Why are you here then?

A good FWD setup can outperform even retards in AWD during winter. I do it all the time here in Connecticut.

the reason why i despise rwd in canada is because of a near death accident i had.

When driving my V6 mustang (ya ya ya i know gay closeted female cuck car.... it was a gift) i was taking a turn and that shit fucking had some sort of kick back after i came out of the understeer. I was going to crash on the edge of the side walk till i fucking took control...

now you can say im a bad driver... ive been driving since i was 15 back in the lebanese mountains, no law, no cops and no street signals or lines... so i consider myself experienced with knowing distances and having control on my vehicle [hence me taking control of this crowd control piece of shit.]

I dont know maybe its just mustangs that have put in my head a bad rep for rwd cars. but all in all i want a awd so i can drive at high speeds in the winter and still feel in control.

PS: pic related thats a mountain road in lebanon... so basically a touge with no gaurd rail and occasionally no asphalt. also no lights at night

You should be fine in a good FWD car.

Unfindable in Europe as well. And when they appear they cost A LOT.

what do you suggest ...

ive told myself if im getting a fwd it has to be strong a minimum or a clean vtec

Not him but FWD is only good if you get a light one. 1300kg max I'd say.

Personally, I recommend GM W-body cars. They're fairly heavy and with the decently heavy V6 right over the drive wheels (as opposed to a lightweight 4 banger), they're fantastic in the snow, especially with snow tires.
There's also aftermarket support should you wish to hotrod one. The only real downside is that 98% of them are automatic only. Manuals were only offeres on W-body cars from 1988 until 1993 before they went automatic only due to poor sales of manual equipped cars.
Recommended W-body's:
1995-2001 Chevy Lumina
1995-2005 Chevy Monte Carlo
1997-2005 Buick Century
1997-2004 Buick Regal
1997-2008 Pontiac Grand Prix
2000-2013 Chevy Impala

Models like the Chevy Monte Carlo SS, Impala SS, Grand Prix GTP, and Regal GS came with a supercharged 3.8L V6 which has LOTS of aftermarket support and makes 240 HP stock. They make great sleepers.

lies

>lies
No point getting a heavy FWD. FWD are always gonna be relatively low-power. No point getting a heavy low-powered car.

>FWD are always gonna be relatively low-power. No point getting a heavy low-powered car.
youtube.com/watch?v=bUddD-e0y-M
It doesn't take much to get a supercharged W-body into the 12's. That's fast by anyone's standards. Stock, the supercharged cars are around 14.7 seconds.

That's because only the UK is allowed access to cheap and plentiful Celicas.

In the UK there was literally one up for sale for 2k, you could get clean factory stock import ones for 5-8k depending on who you went too.

I see quite a few of them too.

Why does nobody ever mention the Oldsmobile Intrigue, specifically the 1998 with the 3.8L, producing ~200 HP?

I love the Intrigue, but it's the red-headed stepchild of the W-body family. Though it uses the 3800 V6 in 1998 and early 1999 model year cars, it can't use any of the 3800 aftermarket because the computers are bespoke to the Intrigue so you can't get proper tuning.

Source: Ex-GF wanted to L67 top swap her '98 Intrigue so I had to do all the research on it. It would've been cheaper to just sell the Olds and buy a Grand Prix.

The Intrigue is a fantastic car, but you really want one with the 3.5L Shortstar V6 if you do get one

i personaly dont understand how you can find a 3.8L making 200hp cool...
I used to think that way but right after you find japanese cars with 2.0L making 275hp,
American just became a joke.

An actual unicorn.

Yeah, I own the '98 with the 3800 Series II. Just had the manifold and ignition switch recall done. If anybody could post pics of their manifold recall that'd be great because I don't think they did mine right. imo it's got great torque and handles decently. It's got just the right kick when you want it, but not always when you need it. I'd say after owning mine for four years it does feel like a throwaway car though