/hg/ 本田

Any ideas for making it more 'modern' while still being period-correct? I'm thinking aftermarket radio and a cluster swap to have a tachometer (ed7 Si). I want an arm rest as well somehow.

also completed the hatch's first mod

Cluster swap along with LEDs would look nice. Maybe find a compatible OEM three spoke wheel?

>star wars battlefront for ps2.
Health, Ammo.

Last thread died one post after me, so I'll repost here.

I'm pretty convinced I want an Accord Euro of some description, which year is best year of the 02-07 luxury trimmed models? I've never owned a Honda let alone a FWD car before. Obviously going for the Six-Speed manual, but are their any other specific details to look for in an accord?

wat.

I bought some vinyl via amazon yesterday. If you want Ill do a video or pics or something. Just wrapping a CRX hood and nose panel

whats wrong with vtec? not wired? its ez pz

Just get center console out of 92-95 civic with armrest

My uncle accidentally broke the wire to it when he did the head gasket (which is holding up perfect so far). He wired it back together without the OEM plug and it won't kick in anymore. connecting it straight to the battery makes it work but I don't feel anything while driving it. Might hook up a quick little light to confirm it isn't working.

You are connecting the solenoid straight to the battery? When? At idle? Or at RPM with a switch? I'm just trying to get a picture here

With the car off, I just connect a wire from the battery to the solenoid wire and I hear it click. I'll try it again at the ECU side of the wire to confirm that there are no breaks in the wire anywhere.

Guys pls. I need sage wisdom.

Well when you have everything plugged in do you get a CEL?

Oh it always has a CEL because deleted O2 sensors. I took the bulb out. I'm fairly certain it's some kind of wiring issue somewhere.

Are you running OBD2?

OBD1. Before I took the bulb out it only had O2 sensor related codes. No emissions here so didn't bother replacing them.

do a diy video pls. I wanna see how hard it is

Not ideal to run without O2. It's not just an emissions issue, running pigfat all the time isn't great.

Also if you are running OBD1 you could potentially set up datalogging and find out if vtec is turning on etc. But that might be more than what you want to do

Okay, won't be for like a week but I'll do one

Another reason I didn't have them was because the exhaust it used to have had all the bungs welded shut and it ran fine so I didn't mess with it.

Easiest way I can see if it's working is to run a wire from the vtak wire to a small light so if it does kick it, the light turns on.

Well just make sure its a 12v test light and you're good to go.

You should really have a O2 sensor

Yeah I was thinking about bringing it back when I got the new exhaust in. It's just one sensor right? Might also think about putting a wideband in for more useful info. Got a total of three bungs to work with. One in the downpipe and two in the test pipe.

youtube.com/watch?v=iMGBubCkmWk

Since datalogging was mentioned I looked up Hondash that Miroshi has for sale. Pretty cheap at just under $60 and it lets me see all kinds of cool shit. Thought about doing a dash install just for this so I may actually do it sometime. Until then it works great on my phone. If I ever do something like Hondata though it won't work anymore but I highly doubt I'll do any serious performance stuff on it since I need it as a high MPG daily driver.

newyork.craigslist.org/mnh/cto/5912392362.html

newyork.craigslist.org/mnh/cto/5912409933.html

I was looking at a 07-11 SE-R Spec V w/100k miles for $4100 when this came up. How would it do as a daily? I heard the K24 swaps are a drop in swap, and I know Certified Racing is a reputable shop in the area. I might have to change the mounts though, 95A is retarded stiff.

Pic Related, first thing I'd buy. There's even a set on CL with new snow tires already for $500.

That looks like a sweet deal to me. I've seen what stiff as fuck mounts can do to an EG hatch and I would definitely swap them out too.

>the engine never vibrated, so the car did instead

Holy shit

Rust and oil burning consumption

OBD1 is just one sensor yeah.

If you are going to put a wideband in and tune it:

Wideband must always be on/heated when engine is running or it will foul very quickly

When you tune the car in open loop, the narrowband O2 sensor is disabled. Meaning you should remove it.

Lastly, there are minimum distances for the wideband. i dont remember offhand but you want to look into that.

If you do end up getting a wideband and want to tune it cheaply, I can make you a basemap in crome and you can send me your logs.

bruuuuhhhhs

flagstaff.craigslist.org/cto/5922442387.html

Damn that is a nice price for that. Getting jelly.

I think I'll start with a basic sensor for now and try out that Hondash kit. Plugs right into the ECU and tracks all kinds of things. Even has built in CEL reader so I can keep my dash clean.

Tires first though. My current ones are on their last legs. I'll hopefully prevent this from happening when I get the Ground Control coilovers.

Well you can chip your ecu and do datalogging for less than the cost of that hondash. (So now you have logging and you can flash it) But whatever makes you happy

How much is it? I still have a bit before I get to messing with ECU stuff.

To chip your ecu is going to run you about 12-14 dollars

Datalogging cable is going to run you like 6-10 bucks

best case: 18 dollars
worst case: 24 dollars

in terms of flashing a basemap or something like that, like I said I have the shit to do it and I'd do it for absolutely free. it takes like literally 20 seconds

if you want to program it yourself there are a variety of programmers that can handle the 27SF512.

Good to know, thanks. I'll start looking at that when I get my suspension and tires sorted out.

>sohc

>load up my roommate and his two friends in my car to do a snack run

Why did I do this. My suspension can't deal.

Sounds familiar
>Got a pre-wedding funk to go to
>Picking up cake for the bride to be's mother in law
>Offer to drive everyone in my slammed as accord
>Rolling around downtown area with lots of hills and shitty roads

youtube.com/watch?v=pdbCqK_HwRY

The whole experience was this video.

Kek holy shit.

It wasn't completely terrible but the resonator hangs just as low as my mud flaps so they scraped on things they didn't scrape on before. I drove very slowly so any dips in the road wouldn't fuck anything up.

I bet stiffening my Konis would have helped for once. They were on the softest setting. I had maybe half an inch of space between my rear tire and the top of the wheel well. No tire rub at all amazingly and my exhaust didn't hit the LCA like it used to with only my roommate in the car with me.

Have you tried revving it from the engine bay?

Lol wtf

Accordion shift boot

07
Look out for power steering leak, oil leak/burn and synchros going

>new fit spoon
I appreciate spoon still running with the fit

How would it look installed?

Nah would not get something like that for a daily. Look for a stick car for better reliability

M I N T
I
N
T

SOHC MY DICK

>not using the Camry
>not using the corolla
Why

Get the ED7 wheel along with an older Sony head unit from Ebay.

I replaced mine when I first got mine for aux, then went back to it because of that period correct shit.

Not yet but I'll mess around with it later.

I'd need one of those EG lower consoles for it to look good. Move the head unit and AC controls down to it and modify the spot where they used to be to fit a tablet in it. My buddy did it and it looks great.

I needed gas for work. I completely forgot my apartment complex has the worst speed bumps in my entire town.

I'll keep my eyes out for 07s then. Doesn't sound like anything goes majorly wrong with them judging by your advice, thanks.

k20z3 is a pretty good motor. not really worth it in my opinion to drop in a k24 unless you blow up the k20 like i did. That being said, yeah, a k24 is pretty easy to swap in and an FA5 is a great daily driver.

Exhaust bolts falling out once again. I just bought all new hardware with lock washers and high temp thread locker. I'll guarantee it won't loosen again.

Is that an integra cluster? It looks good man.

Yeah he wired it up himself. His top speed is past the stock EG cluster so the Integra one was perfect.

There you go

Got everything bolted up. Hopefully nothing else falls off.

I'm so glad it's still warm out here.

I'm going to look up a diy on that, or maybe there's a write up. it looks lit af.

there's really no street bikes in that sticky pic?

:(

Yeah I think there's something. If I remember I think he said there was a lot of rewiring involved. Also had to trim it up to fit into the EG cover.

Not yet but you should be the first. See Is it bad that I think of House every time I see those bikes?

I'm trying to decide on a swap for my EG Hatch
B16A2 VS B18C1
From what I hear these two swaps are plug and play and decent when stock for a daily driver
I'm looking for
>reliability, 50 miles a day
>high revs but mild driving below VTEC.
>cheap and easy swap
>I want to keep up with FRS's and BRZ's either in the straights or the curves, I will have suspension by this time to back it up(Koni yellows and GC's)

Which one should I do?
I'm not looking to rev past 8000 realistically, but I want precise engine response and I don't want to accidentally throw a rod because I revved it too high.
Good gas mileage is a major plus

will have to do that tomorrow. bikes in my parents garage for winter storage.

>Is it bad that I think of House every time I see those bikes?
nope, house gives no fucks what you think

The B18 has more horsepower, torque, but one less MPG than the B16. If I ever get the chance I'd love to turn my hatch into an SiR-II clone engine and all.

That kind of intake, is bad idea? My engine chokes up and I want to feed as much air to it, since i need to step on the throttle for it to not die.

Might have a bad idle air control valve? Mine does that if I unplug it. Might be either unplugged or stuck closed. A new intake won't really fix something like that.

B16

First and foremost, let's sort out what you want and apply it to your selection.

1. reliable
2. high revs but mild driving (but not over 8k)
3. cheap and easy to swap
4. I want to keep up with brz
5. good gas mileage

Some facts before we start:

B16A2:
111 lb*ft of torque @ 7500 rpm
160 hp @ 7600 rpm
Rod to stroke ratio: 1.74
fuel cut: 8500 rpm

B18c1:
128 lb*ft of torque @ 6200 rpm
170 hp @ 7600 rpm
rod to stroke ratio: 1.58
fuel cut: 8200 rpm

Now humor me and let's ad B20 to the options:

B20Z2:
140 lb*ft of torque @ 5500 rpm
150 hp @ 6200 rpm
rod to stroke ratio: 1.54
fuel cut: 7200 rpm if same as JDM motor

(also, for reference the FRS/BRZ puts out 200 hp @ 7000 rpm and 151 lb*ft torque @ 6600 rpm)

1. All motors left in stock form are going to be relatively the same in reliability

result: tie

2 and 4. The closer a motor is to a rod to stroke ratio of 1.75 the more ideal it is for revving high.
For instance, the B16A2 is nearly ideal, however it outputs low torque even at 7500 RPM. Meaning it's going to be gutless until you rev the shit out of it

The b18c1 doesn't rev as high due to worse R/S ratio but makes up for it in displacement. It picks up 17 torque and brings peak torque down all the way to 6200, meaning it's putting out good power in the mid range. (But consider normal driving is 3k RPM or less, so youll have to crack it open to get full potential)

b20z2 has a lot more torque due to the displacement and it's even lower RPM meaning it comes on even sooner at 5500 RPM. It has an even worse R/S so it hits fuel cut at around 7200 RPM only.

Meaning if you don't want to rev super high to get to your power (or want torque at launch), the B20 is going to have the most grunt. B18c1 is the absolute fastest you can go though

result: B20Z2 + b18c1 tie depending on preference

pt 1/2

pt 2/2

3. B20Z2 as a complete longblock will run you from 150-300 dollars due to the widespread use in CRVs. B16a2 is easily going to run triple that. B18c1 typically slightly more expensive than B16a2. Figure tranny will cost you 300-600 regardless of what you get

result: B20Z2 winner, b16a2 honorable mention

5. Gas mileage is going to be pretty similar, but obviously smaller motor typically leads to better fuel economy

result: b16a2 winner

Last word: If you want to compare vs BRZ, lets look at power to weight
ASSUME ALL B SWAPS WEIGH ROUGHLY THE SAME AND +100lbs from stock

BRZ: .0718 hp/lb
b16a2: .0725 hp/lb
b18c1: .0770 hp/lb
b20z2: .0679 hp/lb

So, our final scores are (win =1 pt, honorable mention =.5 pt):

B20Z2: 3 points overall
B18c1: 3 pts
B16a2: 3 pts

What did we learn? It really doesn't fucking matter.

B20Z2 is cheapest but you will lose vs a BRZ in terms of power to weight (however having down low torque makes for good driving). If you want to beat a BRZ on paper the cheapest way you can, go with a b16a2. If you want the absolute best N/A performance for any budget possible, go with the B18c1.

Last but not least, dont forget about gearing. B16 tranny will have shorter gearing and will make your car faster. LS tranny is like being asleep at the wheel. GSR tranny is fast but also gives ok gas mileage. No idea about if you can use B20 tranny but I'm assuming it's shit

Best case scenario: B16 tranny with an LS tranny 5th gear. Fastest setup with best 5th gear for fuel economy on highway

Feel free to ask me about forced induction

i second this, i recently cleaned one out on a 4runner, did wonders... worth cleaning, you'll need a new gasket....

Alright boys, help me decide. I have a 95 'lude (pic related) trying to decide between doing pistons, retainers, springs, and cams OR boosting the stock block on 8psi 11:1cr with a good tune. Engine is a full bolt on F20B btw

How much money do you have

going b18b1 turbo with a qualfie LSD, what you guys think about the paint?

It's fine, put the door trim back on

Selling my old touring set of drums to buy the parts because I don't play shows anymore. I'll probably have anywhere from 3.5-4k depending on what I can get

its a 94, all rubber trim

I vote turbo because you should be able to get a halfway decent setup for that

Put the black shit back on the doors

paint doesn't matter just make it fast

I'd probably only spend 2-2.5k on the actual parts and 800 on the tune. I want to have around 200-300 of buffer just in case something breaks when tuning

CX hatches dont come with side moldings, I got a garrett gtx 2860r for it

Buy the trim and put it on. It looks way better. SRS

you need to spend money on a quality set up, my 2860r cost me 1200. Do it clean and it wont break, no ebay shit

Yeah I ended up using double sided tape to put them on my CX. I would have just gone without, but I learned that both my doors aren't original and had the holes for the trim already.

I agree. I think my car would look weird without them.

no it looks simple and clean, its alpine white with a flattner in the clear coat. Im going all black interior, might tint it, and throw some gold spoke eneki's on it already got the JDM spoiler..... but gotta finish rebuilding the turbo motor so it can be broken in.

You have an opinion and I have an opinion

Having a slot with nothing in it is the same thing as having nipples as a guy.

Do you really want to be at car meets going:
"NO I TOLD YOU THE CX DOESNT COME WITH SIDE MOLDING"

I don't want to have a dialog about this so feel free to suppress your response.

I feel you. Only ebay thing I have on my parts list is intercooler and intercooler piping. Friend has a used 50mm Garrett (not sure exact model) with no shaft play he's willing to sell me for $300

What sucks about putting that trim on those models is that they don't sell the tape on trim anymore. I had to buy the clip ones and modify them to work with tape.

web.archive.org/web/20071112100114/http://passwordjdm.com/PasswordJDM-EG-92-95-Civic-Hatchback-Thin-Side-Moldings-Tape-P1321C329.aspx

Also this shows how overpriced Password JDM is.

good posts

I visited the junkyard yesterday and found 2 EF hatches, both weren't Si sadly. i kinda want a cassette player lol

So looking to get my first car and have been looking around at civics. Any advice for what I should be looking out for and what years?

Thank you very much user.
You've sold me on a B16 swap for cost and effectiveness.
Which B16A variant should I get considering my host car is a 1992 EH hatch?
What would I need to accomplish the swap? How much would it run me?
How hard is it to get an LS final gear in the B16 transmission?
At the moment I have 13" VX wheels and I get major understeer because of them, it might be due to my monstrous ride height but I've been looking into replacing them with an OEM wheel that will give me better grip and possibly clear a GSR big brake upgrade all around.
Should I go for an HX, GSR blade, or???? As my wheel and tire replacement.
Thank you so much, man.

LS mesh are pretty nice. Anything 15 inches will do. I'm using 195/50/15 on my wheels and they work nicely. Also have GSR brakes.

Does it run? Done. Its an old car so bushings and shocks will be shot. It will all be dirty garbage. It can burn oil the car does not care.