Well i fucked up i think. I was installing some arp head studs and i was stupid enough not to tighten down the nuts while I was installing them(engine still in truck with fluids) so I hear something leakinfrom the rear of the engine. Yup coolant from the head gasket. This is my daily. How fucked am I? The head weighs 200lbs so it will be a bitch to get off. I have the nuts torqued down half way out panic. What should I do?
I know I know I should never work on anything ever again
Take everything apart, clean it, put a new head gasket in if you want to do it right. Justtourque shit down it'll probably be fine if you want to do it easy
I have no clue, but if someone could set me straight that would be great. Couldn't you just drain the oil and coolant, refill the oil and empty again, finish torquing the head and put oil and coolant back in? Or am I just completely retarded?
What's the drama here? Did you start the engine without the head retainers up to torque or did you top up fluids and found a weep?
at that time the engine hasn't ran for about 12 hours. I was replacing the head bolts with studs going the opposite of the head torque pattern. I didn't not torque any of them down, just hand tightened the nuts. I removed the last of the bolts and I heard leaking from the rear of the engine. Coolant came from the head gasket. I didn't start the truck since I did not do the final 3 remaining torque values (nuts are currently at 95ftlbs) going all the way up to 105ftlbs. I do not have an engine hoist to lift up the head (200+lbs) don't have the money to have a shop do it.
Drain coolant, torque ARP studs, fill coolant, Look for leaks.
Sounds like it's just dripping out of one of the passages in the head since you never fully removed it, even if you drained the coolant there's still a lot sitting in the passages
>Install head studs
>dont tighten them
Never change Veeky Forums
Yeah I second this
You drained the coolant first right?
If not;
1) you're a dumb ass
2) you'll need to spin the engine with the plugs out incase you got coolant in the cylinders AND change the oil because it's likely contaminated with coolant.
3) maybe you should think about what you're doing before doing it. Dumb ass
Ideally yes, you would pull the head and get into the deck of the block and the mating face of the head with some brake clean or carby cleaner. What can happen, and I stress can and not will, is that the traces of coolant left behind between the gasket and both mating faces will dry and become a crystalline patch. As the crystals form it can push up on the head gasket and compromise the seal.
Most likely you can torque the fasteners and not have any dramas. Be aware though that you should never replace head studs one at a time. I may be reading your posts wrong but it sounds as though you are loosening the head bolt, removing and replacing with a stud then moving to the next bolt. Do not do this. If the cylinder head is secured in one section by fasteners up to torque and not in another you will warp the cylinder head. The cast iron anchor on top of a 6BT will probably be okay but most heads will fail in this manner. The cylinder head is either secured by all fasteners up to torque or it's not, never halfway while you replace bolts.
Not a big drama dude. Just do them cunts up, drop the oil as there is probably coolant that has made it's way down the drain gallery at the back of the number six. There's a lot of plants that I have whacked the head back on with coolant coming out like mayo in a sandwich that are still in service today. To not work on cars again after a simple fuck up is not a good plan. Finish the job and look for leaks. Chances are you'll be right.
Wait you can change head bolts without changing the headgasket?? That doesn't sound like a good idea
This.
OP.....why are you installing head studs?
not OP but, I'm a fan of his idea, if you get coolant in the cylinder, how long would it take for it to leak around the rings and drain into the oil pan? How do you know if the head gasket was damaged at all?
Prolly to run higher boost without blowing a headgasket. At least that's why you do it in early Ford diesels.
>replaces head bolts for more boost
>ruins headgasket in the process
gg
Apparent its a common thing in the Cummins community to just change out each head bolt and stud. It's just people dont fuck up like I do. Reason why I'm doing head studs is I have much larger injectors (5x16) and an s366 wastgated. Injection pump is completely maxed with some added timing. Looking at running 40+ lbs of boost once I get 60lbs valve springs. Right now I'm gated at 30lbs. Set up should put me at 400hp+ and 600-700ftlbs. Stock head bolts are prone to stretching if pushed above 40lbs of boost
Once I get a few days off and a bit extra cash I'll take it to a shop and get the valve springs and head gasket done.
1) Drain coolant and oil
2) Remove all head bolts
3) install ARP studs
4) Torque studs in appropriate pattern to spec
5) Refill oil and coolant
6) Run, check for leaks
7) Please refer to manuals and guides in the future
Should have drained the coolant first before messing with headbolts. If the coolant level hasn't dropped alot. I'd just finish torquing down the head and fire it up. Btw what year is your 6bt?
8) don't be retarded
I know stupid mistakes all around. its a 1991 non ic but I put a 2nd gen ic in it
Again man you may not need to do the head gasket. Torque those cunts up, drop the oil and throw some fresh lube in, get it running and check for leaks. You may have been lucky and just lifted the rear of the gasket before the fire ring. 6BT has a really good seal between the deck and the head face so I'd be more confident about it being serviceable on your engine than on others. If it's a gallery seal and the head gasket is a multi layer steel it's going to seal again when recompressed where a fire ring won't.
If everything does go swimmingly use the cash you would have spent on the mechanic to pre-purchase a replacement gasket and change it when it's more convenient.
Combo sounds awesome too. What are you looking to do injection pump wise? Is it already a P7100 or a VP style pump?
>8) don't be retarded
Everyone makes mistakes mate
This. Making mistakes is fine, as long as you learn from them.
I have the ve still on it with a 3200 rpm spring, fuel pin, timing bumped inside pump and out. M&h timing spacer, hvlp 2nd gen lift pump feeding it. Engine is mated up to the getrag 5 speed with a spec 3+ semi metalic clutch. Rated at 1000ftlbs of torque. 3.07 gears in the Dana 70.
P pump would be awesome to do but it's a pretty expensive conversion. 450hp Ian good enough for me. Even on a light dew in the morning I can light the tires in 4th. That's minus the injectors I'm putting in
Sick man, should go hard once you've got the 366 up around 70pounds/min.
at least you know you should never be anywhere near an engine bay again. Merry Christmas, hope you got more chromosomes under that tree.
At bare minimum I would pull the injectors and crank it over just in case coolant made it into any cylinder. I doubt a cummins likes to be hydrolocked
>just finished making up a bunch of custom aluminium fuel lines
>turn ignition on
>short circuit the fuel pump to run
>fuel, fuel everywhere
I forgot to tighten one of the fuel rail fittings and after installing a 450 lph fuel pump that shit went squirting everywhere. Everyone does stupid things sometimes.
Ya fucked up. Headgasket time.
When doing this backwards, you need to re-torque the studs back to at MINIMUM the step that is equal to or above the stock torque spec.
Your headgasket unsealed. I wouldn't run it. If it was a new gasket job I wouldn't be worried about it, but without knowing exactly what kind of gasket and exactly what shape everything is in, torquing shit down is a gamble.
If you're a cheap jew, go back and start torquing the studs you've already done in order. Then continue on, but dont remove a new bolt until previous is torqued.
I give it a solid 80% fucked 20% you might make it.
Read more guides before you do something sketchy like this next time. There's shit tons of this stuff for the cummins and people do it all the time, no reason not to have the knowledge.
Alright head is getting pulled tomorrow and new head gasket is going on. Don't want this bastard shitting bricks down the road. Thank god I live in an oil/ag driven city where I can get cummins parts easily. I'll have the head machined as well