Dealer negotiation

Christmas Eve I spent the day test driving cars. One that I really liked was a 2006 Cadillac CTS V. 1 owner, 41k miles. The price is $19k and it's been for sale for months at a Cadillac dealership. The battery needed a jump when I got there, the check engine light was on and the passenger heated seat wouldn't turn on. Drove completely fine to me.

Hindsight 20/20 I regret not negotiating right then and there. They said they'll look at the engine light and seat Tuesday then call me. I was told not to go higher than mid teens on price. How do I get it down to that?

I'm gonna give you some solid advice rn:

Never buy a used Cadillac.

Regarding this current vehicle: run for the hills and never look back

Car is awesome when it works right but that one doesn't. Check engine light will be off Tuesday, back on by Friday guaranteed.

DON'T DO IT. They're just going to clear the codes and try to push it on you. It's a shitbox.

Any opinions from people that actually own cars and know they need some tlc?

Dude, no offense, but how retarded are you? First of all, that car by itself is one of the shittiest buys I have ever seen posted on Veeky Forums. They want $19k (is that even out the door?) for some 11 year old piece of shit land barge with a meme vette engine in it?

You can't make this shit up.

And it has a check engine light? Fucking lol

>I can't wrench: the post

Don't do it
Just go to the Cadillac forums

Everyone says it's great

Tell him youll give him 10k or fuck right off

Sounds like a great deal if you can get it for less than like 16k. Just tell them this is the price you can pay and stick to it. If they don't budge then say you'll go elsewhere and leave. They will call you back the next day ready to sell no doubt.

Except for the 5k+ repair when they drop the rear randomly from literally any mild launch...which is why I didn't buy one. Also the interior is dogturd mcshit. And if you think that is acceptable in a Cadillac of any year, kill yourself.

>Everyone says it's great
False. Lots of people say it sucks at that price.

A dealer can clear the codes but the problem still exists. You should take your OBD2 reader and plug it in and see what codes are on it. But they probably cleared out most of the codes by now. Then google those codes.

>my time is worth nothing, so it is ok for me to buy badly made american cars.

some readers can actually see if the codes have been erased

Will the Torque app do that? It's my only reader.

What else is there near 400hp for $20k? There isn't any GTO's for sale at the moment.

Right here bro.

I'm a licensed mechanic and can guarantee that it's a solid car and with a little elbow grease you won't be a stupid fucking moron for buying a shitty ten year old chevy with several issues from a dealer. Go get 'er bro.

Why do retards like OP never ask themselves "why does this vehicle has such a astonishingly deep depreciation curve?"

A Lexus doesn't depreciated like that, neither a Mercedes or a BMW.

if you want your own pile of GM shit, then go for it.

pontiac g8 maybe

Because the next generation was night and day. It's supercharged, it has recaro seats, automatic was available. The 2008 and newer CTS V don't depreciate near as much.

>mercedes and bmws dont depreciate

Bro, BMW doesn't depreciate at all. There are no 740iLs running for $2000 down from $80,000 after 10 years.

>and still a shit buy at that price

Neither is the Cadillac

You can pickup high end Early 2000's/late 90's Mercs for like less than $5k in NewZealand, pretty much bigger mobiles

Mid 90's base spec Toyota still got for $7-$10k though

I am joking. You can pick up a 7-series for 2k easily with a good to perfect exterior/interior.

One small repair is worth more than the car though.