QTDDTOTT

There's already a QTDDTOT with only ~100 posts. By starting your own thread just to get your question answered, you've defeated the purpose of a QTDDTOT thread.

You need to kill yourself. For the betterment of mankind.

So I am considering buying those cheap new tires from walmart/etc.

I could however go for used tires discount shits, but they charge $40-50 to put on a a used tire. I could buy a new tire for $40-50 from walmart and put it on myself. Is it better to buy new or buy old/used and pay for service?

Just follow all the hoses, starting from the reservoir

Disk brakes are insanely easy. Drum brakes are a bit trickier but if you take your time you'll be fine

Hiya Veeky Forums
How many drive sizes do I really need in a socket wrench set? Can't they all turn the same sockets?

I've gotten along fine with just a 3/8 ratchet

stop being a nigger and get 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2"

1/4" with the shorter handle and finer teeth is great for cramped spaces

3/8" general wrenching

1/2" for fasteners to be torqued around 3 ugga duggas

Rx8 as a daily driver? Hypothetically. I get the feeling that this would be a bad idea.

Going to be painting some aluminum parts soon, and I'd like to find out the best process from people who might have some experience with painting. I plan on sanding down the bare metal a bit, cleaning it up with some denatured alcohol, priming it, then painting it. I don't think I'll be using clear coat because I don't want it to be too glossy looking. How many coats of primer should I use, and after I prime it, do I have to wet sand the primer before painting it with the actual color? How many coats of paint, and do I wet sand that as well? I imagine I would to get out any orange peel or runs I might get. What grits should I use to wet sand the paint, and what kind of polish should I use after to remove sanding marks? It'll all be hand done. I'm not expecting perfect results, but I don't want it to look like shit either.

Pic unrelated

can anyone tell me what Paul Walker was trying to do in the opening scene of 1F1F? The one with the green eclipse? He just goes fast and then does a schwoopy loop or something.

valve cover gasket or distributor ring senpai

Do it

Hoo boy.

The RX-8 is fun as fuck to drive. It feels like a more mature miata with all of its poise and a better engine. It's an awesome driving car. However, you need to be able to fill it up with copious amount of idemitsu and be able to afford driving a 20mpg car. You will also need to rebuild the Renesis, so make sure you know how to do that.

Basically you're trading reliability, ease of ownership, and fuel economy for not power but the driving experience. I had to sell mine because I was in financial straits and couldn't afford the upkeep.

All this applies to the series 1. The series 2 is much more friendly but it's allegedly not as fun as the series 1. All in all, if you can afford to keep a RX-8, they are amazing cars. But many people don't ave to money or technical know-how to look after one.

This.

Same issue as yesterday:
My old 94 cougar just quit working; I backed out of my carport and it just died.
It will crank, but won't turn over.
Today I tested stuff:

I have spark to the plugs
Fuel pump works, and I have fuel through my fuel filter.
Fuel pump relay makes that clicking noise, and I can feel it click when my roommate turned the key.
Took out the air filter

Still nothing.
I checked all the fuses I can find, none burnt out.
Sprayed starter fluid into the air intake, and it fired up and ran for about 5 minutes before it died again and won't start at all. I'm back to square one
A friend suggested my fuel injectors be totally fucked, but it had to be running off of gas for a little while there.
Any idea what this could be?

>shut bonnet
>have to perform cpr on the hood for it to latch
how do i fix this crap it's annoying

Drop it higher up.

Get a new latch

You guys will call me names for this...

Which one of these is the supercharger in my R53 Mini?

Are the superchargers on w203 mercedes any good?

bump

i wanna road trip to either ny or miami with my family, havn't decided where yet. have 3 weeks. any recommendations? interesting shit along the way?

forgot to mention, i'm in san diego right now.

Have a rough idle and acceleration is a bit weak it also jerks on me shifting gears like I was giving it gas. Any ideas what I should do with these codes I just got off my 91 Ranger? Not finding too much on forums

51 - Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor signal is/was too high – ECT
24 - Intake Air Temperature (IAT) or Vane Air Temperature (VAT) sensor out of range – IAT VAT
79 - A/C is on or pin 10 is shorted to power
22 - MAP (vacuum) or BARO signal out of range – MAP

MAP will definitely cause rough idling.

Either replace it or give it a poke with a voltmeter

>poke with a multimeter

I have one handy, digital. Any guides or advice? Any idea where it's located?

I'm sorry the only manual I have for any Ford products in that era is for an Explorer, which uses a mass air flow system, not a manifold absolute pressure system. So that rules out any info on what voltages should be coming out of it.

If you post a picture of your engine bay I might be able to figure out what's what.

I'm checking my Haynes but not having any luck, any idea which section or where int he glossary I should look?

Chapter 6: Emissions and engine control systems.

One more question, any idea why a 2.9 liter sensor is $13 on ebay but my 3.0 sensor is nearly $60? Are they interchangeable?

I have no idea.

If they list the original part numbers, compare them. If they match you're good to go.

My mk6 1.4 Fiesta has these tyres fitted. How am I still alive?

tyrereviews.co.uk/Tyre/Event/WL905.htm

Also post your tyres

Anyone have experience with old rx7s?

I want to replace my door panels, but it's hard to find 79-84. Can I just use newer ones from the FC and FD? They LOOK similar.

When you push clutch in a manual is the RPM supposed to dip all the way down to idle?

Some prick at my apartment dinged my car. No indention, but took off paint about the size of a pencil eraser all the way to the primer. Three week new fucking car. Do I slash his tires? Key his shit in?

Depends on the car, for the most part, yes.

05 Dodge grand caravan
Serious misfires, only code is P0300, runs very poorly under load and got around 11mpg (normal is 18ish)
Replaced spark plugs, wires and coil pack.

Still has a problem. Give up now? What's up?

check the MAF sensor and crank/cam position sensors

oh and fuel pressure

I've acquired a shitload of ELO pos touchscreen terminals and I don't know how much to sell them for wat do?

I feel you man.
Month and a half after getting a new car someone hit and ran while it was parked infront of my house.

Is it wrong if I let mommy and daddy pay for my car and insurance?

Yes.

duh

Fuuuuuck man. That's even worse. I'll probably just let the air out of one of their tires and be done with it.

Are yellow headlights generally considered bad or what?

I kinda like them on boxy white cars

Selective Yellow.
Google it, it's a European thing.

(You)
They look cheap and dumb

For the soap use Optimum No Rinse (the kind with the wax in it) for regular washes. Two bucket method, one bucket with ONR mix, one with water for rinsing the mitt/sponge, warm water seems to work better than cold water. Most soaps (Meguiar's, etc.) work fine but ONR is super easy and conserves water. An entire wash can take only a few gallons. If you park outside I'd wash once a week, but my weekend car that gets driven

Brake light coming on randomly typically means you are low on brake fluid.

If you can afford it buy new tires.

If you can't, paying $40-$50 to install a tire is fucking insane, take it to a Mexican shop and have them do all 4 for less than that.

Is $2000 for a 150,000 mile integra too much and is it worth haggling the price if my grandmother will pay for it

If it's decent shape and has a manual then yes.

Mechanically it's sound by exterior is a little beat up and interior is beat up too.

It is manual though

I mean yes that's a good deal and you should buy it.

Interior issues are fairly cheap to fix but how beat up is the exterior? If there's body filler everywhere and it's been wrecked I'd reconsider, but if it's dents that a PDR guy could fix and scratches I'd say it's pretty decent.

I ran the VIN and there were no collisions

i can't seem to google out the right answer. I just want to be sure about a few things.

I thought insurance coverage was by driver, not by vehicle but I guess that's just another detail with insurance premiums?

All motorists are required by law to be insured but if I don't own my own car, I can still drive someone else's car as long as they are insured themselves. So if an accident occurs, it's the car's owner that takes the hit rather than the driver?

What happens in the case that the car's owner is not insured? Who gets screwed over? The owner or the driver?

If it changes anything, I'm in Ontario (Canada)

Do you guys go through multiple cars to find the right one you want to buy or is just buying the first car you see fine and enough?

I usually research it, but I don't have time to find the ''right one''. Can't take off from work and fuckaround and dealerships are only open on saturdays on the weekend...

narrowed it down to what I liked, what I needed, and what I was willing to live with. Ended up at one dealer that came off as even more of a hard dick (needing to put down a deposit to test drive a $25k car) and wouldn't even unlock the doors unless he ran a credit report. Ended up at another dealer, test drove the car, and fell in love with it.

If I wanted to go about building a push bar.bull bar for a small hatchback that wasn't a subaru, should I go the way the cops do and just weld on some plates to the crash beam and have that come through the bumper cover, and then just bolt something onto that?

I live in Ontario...the vehicle you drive must be insured...

I can't fit my socket over a spark plug. The 3 other plugs came out fine, but in this one the socket won't engage. I know for a fact that the plug isn't a different size. It looks like the little rubber ring on the plug is sort of higher up than it should be and I think that's what's stopping the socket from fitting. Any way to get that ring out? Should I just bash the socket in?

Are you using a normal deep well socket or a spark plug socket? If it's a spark plug socket try a regular deep well.

It's a spark plug socket. I'm worried that if I use a regular deep well it'll break the plug.

how do people deal with appliance cars that are shit at everything except gas mileage (A to B)?

I want to have a base car but im stuck buying car that look good to me and fuck my wallet.

So when I bought my Firebird, the battery was 100% dead and had been for a while. The keyless remote is sending out a signal (checked it at the store) but it's not working. So I'm assuming the car's receiver has been reset and needs to be reprogrammed. How would I go about doing that or is it not a DIY thing?

It's a 1994 Base Firebird with the 3.4L V6 and the remote is pic related.

A deep well socket shouldn't damage a spark plug, I've used them to pull plugs for year.

All right, I'll try that. Thanks br/o/

Throw both away and get a better car

I'd just remove the factory keyless entry module and replace it with an aftermarket one, most of the wiring will already be done for you at that spot and you can get a solid keyless entry/alarm system for ~$50.

Pretty retarded question, but if you have a fast car and spin the tires, are you losing control of the car? Is it gonna keep going straight or all over the place?

Thanks to user with EE90 corolla yesterday with fuel filter change. Today I was looking at distributor cap and was trying to find the igniter for the rpm signal wire and I couldn't quite locate it, might anyone help with identifying it? pic related is my engine bay

It's directly underneath the intercooler (the big rectangular object ontop). You've got to remove the entire front end and the radiator to access it.

If you're shifting properly (ie: taking your foot off the throttle) then yes. if the car is moving and the clutch is engaged, and you take your foot off the throttle, little-to-no fuel is being injected, but the engine is forced to carry on going because it's being turned over by the transmission (rather than the other way around). If you then disengage the clutch, the engine should almost immediately return to idle, because there isn't anything forcing it to turn over at a higher speed. This is perfectly normal.

In order of most common to least common:

Low fuel pressure (check fuel pump and check for leaks in the fuel lines)
Faulty EGR valve
Low/no compression (do compression test and look for the bad cylinders, then put a tablespoon or two of oil into the faulty cylinders and do another compression test; if compression improves it's the piston rings, if it doesn't it's either the head gasket or the valves).

Who makes the 7 speed dogled used by Aston in the V12 Vantage S?

What kind of rear suspension do Funny Cars and Top Fuelers use?

I'm going to go out on a limb here, and say hell no.

Violence is never the answer. Make sure you don't damage anything permanently.

No, as long as it's well within their disposable income.

They're French thing, and they're retarded.

Sure, if you want it to fail immediately in a crash. Use square tube from the crash beam, and then weld on the bullbar itself.

Also, make sure it'll fit within your local jurisdiction, and that it won't kill pedestrians.

By getting something like a Miata or CRX that gets 90% of that ideal gas mileage, yet they're fun.

Doing driving lessons and there are days where I drive perfectly but then other days where I drive and make dumbass mistakes, why is that? could it be lack of sleep?

Driving is like that. Traffic and road conditions change and you will fuck up some spots and do fine in others. Just learn from every mistake you make and you'll improve

What I'm trying to say that one day I might do worse on a place I've driven before, and both times the road and traffic conditions where the same, my reactions or whatever just were slow.

Why do dumb blind people create an another QTDDTOT when there is an existing one?

Would you buy a car that had panels that didn't have matching colors if the car was mechanically sound?

In my case the fender is a lighter green but everything else looks fine.

FWD cars understeer when you lose traction on the front end, RWD cars oversteer when you lose traction on the back. There's not much you can do with understeer but you can control oversteer.

sure, they're easy to remove and you can respray them in the stock color if it bothers you, Napa and other auto paint stores will color match rattlecans
it should take 2-3 hours with prep and resprays
>literally the easiest way to get into auto painting

>implying you can't power out of an oversteer
you're already fucked, stomp on the gas

>FWD
It'll keep going straight

>RWD
Depends, you could lose control pretty easily with even a little bit of steering input because there's nothing keeping the rear wheels in line.

I'm going to say that even tho your fuel pump is clicking it may still be bad/clogged
it sounds like it's not giving you enough fuel pressure; the starter fluid probably gave it a bit of a jump but it couldn't keep itself running
if you can check the fuel pressure at the injectors to troubleshoot it out, clean the injectors, check the fuel hoses and then pull the fuel pump

Anyone have any stealership experience?

I have 5 grand that I was going to use to shop around for a used sports car to go fast in, but limerence is wearing off as I look, and I was thinking of just getting something brand new.

If I dropped between 5-6k as the down payment (on say, a 22k car), can anyone give a rough estimate of the monthly payment?

I really want to talk to the dealerships as little as possible.

Same guy who was having trouble with a spark plug. I poked around with a light and the rubber spark plug seal is out of place. I tried a deep thin walled socket but it was a no-go. How would I go about this? I'm either thinking hammer a socket into the plug until that rubber seal moves or try to fish it out somehow. Anybody ever had this problem? Pic related is the bad plug (can't see much sorry)

Sorry, actually pic related is the bad plug. Last one was a good one for comparison.

There isn't supposed to be any rubber in there. Get a seal pick or needle nose pliers in there and dig it out