Mazda RX-7

Get an old non-turbo FB or FC. Much less expensive than an FD, non-turbo Wankels will go basically fucking forever (reliability goes straight downhill once you add boost), and you'll get to experience a slow, fun car made for the mountains instead of a fast road barge made for shredding tires.

>10-15 on average
if average is driving wot all the time sure

I actually want something with excessive power and potential for more. A friend let me drive his 93 ls swapped and it was amazing.

>I want an RX7
>I want one without that thing that makes it unique

If you want a V8 car, save 10 grand and buy a Camaro

hey the rotary isnt necessarily what is unique about the rx7. The body alone is very unique and a primary reason for many modders to get it.

If you want an RX7, you buy an RX7. If you want an RX7 that works, you swap in an LS V8. It's that simple.
youtube.com/watch?v=6Pay_-WMK_Y

>If you want an RX7 that works, you swap in an LS V8. It's that simple.
It's even simpler than that

>warm the rotary up
>drive it like you stole it after it is warm
>let the rotary cool down
>check the oil every time you put fuel in it

That's literally fucking it.

kek very opposing thoughts here. I personally want the ls in an rx7. But how come i never hear of mopar's in an fd?

No, I think it's the rotary.
Modders just wanted something different in the bay.

What about a v6 supra motor in it

meh

>But how come i never hear of mopar's in an fd?
mopar engines were never as popular as the Ford or GM small blocks.
When compared the Mopar engines weren't as power-dense and weighed more than the competition, particularly the elephant motor 426 Hemi. the more modern 5.2 and 5.9L Magnums have virtually no aftermarket support. and the 5.7/6.1/6.2 SC/6.4L new Hemi V8's don't have the aftermarket, and aren't as capable as the GM LS engines.

Also, with regards to the newer hemi engines, fuck having to replace 16 spark plugs.

>v6 supra
>V6
>Supra
pick one. The Supra always came with an I6. There's a fucking difference.

rip v6 supra, inline

Take it from a FD owner, its all smiles and rainbows until you blow an apex or coolant seal. Then either the work, the cost, or both depending on how mechanically you are inclined start to add up exponentially. No joke if you cannot put away 10k in the bank when you buy a rx7 for when you need a rebuild don't bother with a fd, you'll just be another hater.

If you want an LS-swapped RX-7 just buy a C5 Corvette instead. It'll be cheaper than doing the swap and more reliable than whatever you shove together in your garage.

i still prefer the rx7 body overall.

you aren't going to do shit u instagram flexer.
if you were you wouldnt be blogging about it on Veeky Forums

???

kek what

>i want an ls fd so i can post on instagram
this is literally you

I've always felt that the car is ruined once you take out the single aspect that was pivotal in the design of said car - the engine.

The FD RX-7 is a little nicer stock but a time attack-styled ricer C5 will turn just as many heads. And it'll piss boomers off.

Personally I like the C5 more. I've seen plenty of FDs around but Corvettes are rare over here.

As someone that drives ~36k miles a year. The mpg is a huge deal. I'm not talking about a prius but my v8 mustang averages 28 on the highway.

TFW saw RX7xls1 license plate in cali. That car ran away at the light.

As it would. Lightweight vehicle plus V8 powerhouse. The same applies to LS-swapped Miatas and S-chassis.

fuck rotary engines they suck. There is a reason mazda as of recently decided to drop the rotary line.

>There is a reason mazda as of recently decided to drop the rotary line
Emissions cuckery, you mean?

if you'll put some v8 in it you'll ruin the weight distribution and FMR layout
though it may be possible to retain it with some small 4 cyl, like k20

also the suspension is specially made for this setup so you also ruin handling, and that suspension is work of the art,

in conclusion, you are fucking retarded and want that car simply for the looks, buy a C5 if you want a V8

it can be all fixed u fuk. Fuck rotary, very few buy fuckin rx7's because they want a fucking breakdown mobile. Its for appearance 99% of the fucking time.

Since this is a rotary/RX7 thread, I figured this is a good place to ask this. I want my next car to be an FD, though I'm in no hurry, my current car still has a few years left in it. However, is it better to buy one of the older ones and fix/mod it up to my preferences or buy (import) a newer one with better specs and have less left over for personalization?

Is there really such a big difference between the earlier or later models of FDs. I've read on wikipedia the various stock specs of the series, but does it really matter when aftermarket performance parts exist nowadays?

You underestimate people's devotion to the rotary. Anyone who buys a car solely for appearance is a fag.

You've never met a rotard before, have you? Every RX-7 and 8 owner I've met has been one. They're true masochists of the road and in most cases the dorito snobbery is comparable to an American with a manual Civic.

It is literally a shitty engine design, motor i should say. It was designed to fail. A flat or v configuration can last ages longer and perform far better. So i would get an rx7 for its body and a v6 or v8 to put in it so i can have an actually function rx7/

What sort of V6?

buy a different car then faggot

faggot if i want an rx7 then i will get an rx7, fucking destroy it's rotary and put a v8 in it. And il fucking sell the shitty rotary engine to metal scrap.

>when you try to make legit thread, derails like mad.

do whatever the fuck you want
after all you waste your own money, not mine
shitload of people make their cars inferior, you won't be the first

>rebuild
There's only three main moving parts in a 13B. Rebuilding one is extremely easy and provided you let them warm up, cool down, put oil in them, etc, they're fairly reliable.

Getting rid of the stock twins and the clusterfuck of vacuum lines and going with something like a GTX30 or GT35R with electronic boost control does wonders for the reliability and gives you more power as a side benefit.

A lot of the time what kills them is heat from the turbos being trapped in by the rats nest.

What? You're more likely to get 17-25mpg. You'd have to have your foot planted everywhere to get 10mpg out of a 13B that wasn't peripheral ported.

Unless you destroy a rotor housing it's usually not a big deal to rebuild them. I do agree with you though, always have money aside in case it decides to go bang.

If you do the standard reliability mods and single turbo swap it they're way more reliable though.

I wouldn't buy an RX-7 as a daily, let alone for that amount of driving.

They're really not as bad as people say. A lot of the failures you'll hear about are people not putting oil in them, not warming them up before they flog it, or trying to up power too much on the stock turbo setup.

Would I daily one? No, but they're really not as bad as people pretend, especially when you consider how easy rebuilding one is.

>inferior
you mean superior
>v8 masterr8c

more like masteraids

ur rotarkuk iassume

rx7club.com/general-rotary-tech-support-11/v8-vs-rotary-3rd-gens-141485/

You are right going single turbo simplifies things a crap ton and improves reliability significantly, I would not recommend running the stock twins at all. However I disagree about the rebuilding. While sure its a lot cheaper and easier to do than on a piston engine its still not something that average enthusiast is going to be able to realistically do. Economically you at the minimum are going to spend $2k or so on a rebuild kit alone and that's just the seals and gaskets etc. Then you need specialised tools which is probably going to run you another grand. Then you are likely to need to replace the housings, or rotors if the apex seals shatter and do internal damage. Individually those are each another grand or so new. If you are particularly unfortunate the apex pieces might fly into your turbos and fuck them up good. I've got prices in dollerydoos but yeah you can see why you really need to have moneys prepared for the rebuild. Expect to rebuild every 70-100k km, less if you have put on a bigger turbo or done any porting work.

Mazda needs better seal technology. It doesn't make a bit of difference that the rotary engine is by Nature Superior to piston engines, if the average person who buys it is going to have to worry about it breaking down all the time. They're temperamental, I mean. You don't hear about those reliability issues when you put a turbo on a V6.

They have to make them Bulletproof before they can be profitable. And by that I mean idiot proof.

The old NSU engines didn't have apex seals, did they? I know they had early problems with chattering, but other than that how were they?

This. The C5 is great and they're dirt cheap.

Still gonna save up a bit more so I can afford a Z06

>ls swapped RX7
FOR WHAT FUCKING PURPOSE REEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE

Depending on what is wrong that causes the rebuild you can get out with about 700 dollars in parts and tools you should already have. If you abuse the piss out of it after it starts losing conpression or blow it up due to bad tuning then yeah. Its gonna be more expensive.

Not over modern ones, no. In the 90s it was only possible to make this car with a rotary.

Not worth it, same shit mainly (turbos that guzzle up high-octane gas) without the advantage of being placed behind the front axle like rotor or LS1.

Not necessarily. Pushrod V8 is a relatively compact engine (LS1 at least), specifically it's not long like inline 6. Also turbines themselves have weight and take space. But there's also veryminute details like vibrations from pistons moving in opposite directions then you have to cut/weld and rearrange the engine bay, etc. Heavier transmission will ad more weight to the middle too. But when you just measure wight on both axles in LS1 RX-7 it's gonna be 50/50.

>Personally I like the C5 more. I've seen plenty of FDs around but Corvettes are rare over here.
Where the fuck do you live? The Hiroshima RX-7 plant?

Non-Turbo FCs are more reliable than the Turbo FDs. I have a friend with a FC and he loves that car.

With that being said he does still need to do repairs on it. Some are age related like leaky brake lines, while others are related to the rotary engine. He had to get the engine fixed after it flooded. I wouldn't buy a rotary unless I had money set aside in case something goes wrong.

18+ to post, friend :^)

If you're going to LS swap an RX7 you might as well get a C5 Corvette because they're going to drive similarly anyways. They're cheaper as well because no rice tax.

You would destroy the weight distribution. Really, really bad idea for the dynamics of the car.

Deal with the rotary or buy a C5 Corvette which will be much cheaper and arguably a better car after you LS swap an RX7. What a timing belt swap is for a piston engine is an engine rebuild for a rotary. They are simple but require specialized tools and parts which pushes cost up. If you replace apex seals early you will reduce the cost of maintenance.

Much of the issues the rotary has in the RX-7 as far as maintenance goes is related to emissions. The precats are fragile, as is the EGR system. You can see some suggested tips here: rx7.org/Robinette/reliabiltiy.htm

Hey friend. I have an RX7. They do have to be rebuilt, and looked after very well, but thats half the appeal. Every time I drive it, it feels like im driving something special. They use a lot of fuel, and require warming up. They are also super unreliable aside from the rotary motor. The turbo's are a pain (but half the appeal of the rx7). Changing to a single turbo ruins the purity of the RX7 to me. Any questions lmk

>watching initial d
>guy is talking about his upgrades on his fc
>adjusted the piston firing
>mfw

Was triggered friend

does anyone here own an rx-7 in CA? i always wanted one but so many of them seem to be heavily modified and perhaps hard to get to pass smog

>Expect to rebuild every 70-100k km
with proper support mods you really shouldnt be seeing such a little life span. not even stock. they are incredibly strong when some backyard ebay hack isnt fiddling with them

Because you want real power?

Another appeal is that you can pump in oodles of power without catastrophic failure.
The downside is everything else likes to break.

Though true, the FD is anything but a barge, it's about the size of an AE86 and it's light too.

2800lbs for such a tiny car is not light... Get a lithium battery or move the battery to the trunk if you're worried about your precious weight balance. Most RX's are slammed on stretched tires so it's not like weight balance matters at that point.

I think you will find once rebuilt, the engine will never last the same. Putting more boost will also accelerate the wear. Here is an rotary workshop that confirms the 70-100km numbers I gave you. rotaryresurrection.com/2ndgen/tech_engine_longevity.html

imagine being this retarded

the american fds were very problematic but all problems are no big fix. the 13brew is easily a 100k+ engine

fd3s.net/lemon_site/tsbs.htm#TSB22

Don't need to add more cylinders to a v8.
Seeing as it's a v8

I admit I keked

>high reving

can we stop this meme please. 9k is not high reving

for a bike no
for a car yes

For nothing. Big block V8's rev to 8000.

Which? Show Veeky Forums a v8 that revs thay high factory?

Not factory faggot. Were talking engine swaps here. Also a stock rotary would blow if you tried to take it to 9000.

...

the amount of work it takes for a big block to rev to 8k a rotary will go over 10k without a sweat

not a big block

>Also a stock rotary would blow if you tried to take it to 9000

the 13b renesis is balanced for 13k rpm
it does 10k with the rev limiter removed...
youtube.com/watch?v=HwoiFYtxilA

>the amount of work it takes for a big block to rev to 8k a rotary will go over 10k without a sweat

Naw, not even close if you got the engine already. High comp big blocks were a thing in the 70's you know, it doesn't take rocket appliances to get them to rev that high. If a 16 liter V8 can rev to 8000 a tiny 7 liter sure as hell can.

I love how that thing is all noise and zero power. I bet he needed new apex seals after that run. That's why there's so many RX lawn/driveway ornaments, because people think it's a F1 car.

rip this was my thread.

>I love how that thing is all noise and zero power
well yeah its otherwise stock, power keeps dropping off after 8500

>I bet he needed new apex seals after that run
chattering would be an issue if it spent extended amounts of time bouncing off 10k because stock seals and springs..
but whatever... even ls1s have a tendency to throw rods above 6800rpm

yes

To make a big block rev, rod to stroke and proper airflow.

THEN BUY A FUCKING C5

but i like rx7 body, just like i like ur body so maybe i will fucking gut you and stick my dik inside. i mean put my own body in ur skin.

>2800 pounds is not light
>battery relocation in a car known for electrical gremlins
>stancing a fucking RX7

this is retarded.

I mean if you want to have a less reliable C5 Corvette that's your call. I don't give a shit about the RX7, if you want to drive up the value by destroying one be my guest.