/QTDDTOT/

Nah , as long as your buddy knows what to look for. I've been that guy for multiple friends over the years.

Ask /diy/

"Hi, I'm user, this is mechanic user who's going to take a closer look at the car...."

Actually will probably improve your ability to jew a seller on price. Also, always, always, always buy a pre-purchase inspection from a mechanic. It's worth the 100 bucks you spend just to know you're for sure golden.

Yeah, just wear thick gloves.

does autozone resurface flywheels?

No but they will most likely know a compadre that does

>own 97' japanese shitbox
>do short burnouts sometimes when driving with friend

Am I already on my way to completely wearing out this car or am I overreacting?

Do you mean hold, or do you mean as in do you touch it with the stick or line?

Is it acceptable to not skip lug nuts when putting tires back on? I saw some guy do it at the shop and I was always told that you're supposed to skip one or go in a star patten.

You mean the Renault sport Clio?

Its just good habit to do a star patten, and just going in a circle could mean that not all bolts were torqued down correctly.

yeah he was using an impact wrench in a circle and that last nut didnt seem right. glad it wasnt my car! thanks user

How cold does it have to be in order for the car to have any problems (starting or whatever)? Also, what would the low temps cause?

Depends on the condition of the car, the cars battery, if the proper ratio of coolant/water is there, whether its carbed or EFI and if it has the proper oil in it or not.

Generally cold causes hard, or no starting in most cases.

I'm mostly concerned about the coolant, how cold would it have to be for it to freeze?

Per google:

>The minimum freezing point temperature is at about −36 °F / −37.8 °C corresponding to 60–70% glycerol in water.

End of November I got new tires and lug nuts. Love the tires, but I just realized one of the nuts. I got dorman 611-299. I'm not a car guy, but I think I got nicked

>that curb rash

You apparently can't drive for shit so, not that it matters much.

Can I plastidip my brake calipers or will it melt? I plastidipped my wheels and my engine cover and they are holding up alright and they get pretty hot.

I'd rather have it be my reckless driving than someone else I have to worry about.

Probably a bad idea, would hate to have that shit flake and get caught in the pads.

Depends on how efficiently heat transfers from your pad to your caliper. I don't think the caliper itself gets terribly hot in any car but I could be wrong. Never touched one after a spirited drive.

But why would you plasti-dip a caliper? That shit comes off easily and the wheels are always getting blasted with debris so it'd wear out and look ragged pretty fast.

Do it in a star pattern. It ensures that you get the wheel properly pressed to the rotor and evenly tightened.

Like said; too many coefficients to give a straight answer

Where are you, what temperatures do you see, what do you drive (with engine type and all) and more info you see relevant

is correct. A car usually has 50% coolant/glycerol or more depending on where in the world you're located, so you're probably safe unless someone has swapped it all out with straight water and you'll be in below freezing temperatures

It'll melt/peel off. An engine cover and a wheel do not get "pretty hot" when you compare them to how FUCKING hot a caliper gets

what shitbox specifically?
generally cars don't suffer from mashing the throttle every now and then, because they're built with limiters to prevent you from revving too high. You're just wasting tires. Taking corners hard all the time is worse because suspension components wear way faster when you're taking it to the limits of lateral traction.

>But why would you plasti-dip a caliper?
Just wanted to change up the color without anything permanent. I've resprayed the wheels different colors 3 times now.
>That shit comes off easily and the wheels are always getting blasted with debris so it'd wear out and look ragged pretty fast.
Mine have held up pretty good, but I respray them every few months, so I don't know how long it would hold up in the long run.

Do you guys keep med kits or any related supplies in your vehicles? I'm thinking about keeping a few basics in my jeep, wool blankets, splints tourniquets even IV kits and the like. Is that just unnecessary to do so?

Nah, if you ever drive out of town for any reason, it's a good idea. I always keep a small bag of camping gear and a first aid kit in my car just in case.

make sure there's water

Sup guys pls help

>2009 Camry LE
>always parked outside, don't have garage spot
>has never required any repair at 110k miles
>finally something went wrong
>since last week brake light and ABS light come on intermittently for no reason
>when this happens, both the speedometer and the RPM indicators stay at 0
>basically the entire fucking dashboard stops working every once in a while

What is the problem likely to be and how much will a repair cost? A fucking diagnosis alone would set me back $100 or so

I was thinking about keeping camping gear in my KJ. I'll honestly probably only use the medical supplies to treat those with me as not to get sued.
Maybe for general use, but in an accident or if someone gets injured, giving the victim anything by mouth can add risk to a surgery.

Are you driving an ambulance? Keep shit in your car that'll keep you going in case of a breakdown. Getting stranded without water sucks.

What's a good supercharger for the Toyota 86? Anything?

Who the fuck replaces something after they steal something?

What's the best way to fix this?

m8 there's no way to fix a finger that looks like a sausage

Superglue or Jb weld.

Didn't even know I had fat fingers.
Thanks.

I wanted to put a new radio in an old car, specifically a gps/radio thing like pic related, specifically in a mk 2 supra.

Will this work? Are there any more options that will fit the 80s look but still be GPS (not that I need it, the option is cool though)?

Sounds like there's a fucky CANbus connection in there somewhere.

How much should a inspection cost if I leave it at the shop? I've had my car a bit but I want to have it inspected by a mechanic on a lift to make sure nothing is waiting to go wrong. Oh, and the check engine light comes on if I idle too long or if I go on the highway for 10 minutes.

AR, USA

Tune up should be around $150 for a V6 right?

cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/680787287/overview/

Should I? I've been holding out for a different color/not garbage dealership but I haven't seen anything else come up in weeks that actually fits my criteria

>that actually fits my criteria
As in even shows up in my search, not just ones I excluded in my head

I know it's a retarded question, but about how much am I looking at to get a car tagged and titled? It's in MD so I think it's gotta be titled, temp tagged, inspected, THEN permanent tags issued.

I've just never done that stuff myself so I don't know how much to plan for

why the fuck wont my bonnet latch?
used to be it would latch 50% of the time but now it just wont latch at all
i forced a screwdriver into the latch and it worked fine but the bonnet wont latch no matter what i do

Was the car ever in a front-end accident?

My Geo had the same problem and the core support was munched on one side. I had to take the headlight bucket out and stick the scissor jack in there when I first got it to get the hood to latch properly.

Try moving the catch up a few millimeters.

pic

CAR AUDIO

I have a 4 gauge wire coming from my battery to my current 250W amplifier.

I was given a 2nd 250w amplifier and a 1100w 10" subwoofer.

Can I run the 4 gauge to a splitter, then run two 8 gauge cables to power and ground my 250W amps??

I don't like it loud so I don't know if I'll be drawing much power...

Thanks duders

yeah its been in a front end smash, the lower cross member has a big dent in it
but it latched more or less even after the accident so i dont see how its related

That'll do it lol

If the hood lines up with the fenders pretty well when it's latched (If you can get it to latch) move the catch up a few MM.

If the hood sits proud of the fenders a bit, screw in the adjustable bumpers. Pic related.

one side of the hood dips lower than the other and i dont have any adjustable bumpers

I don't know if this may apply here, but euro chevys come shipped from the factory with a pulled fuse and the ABS module disconnected so the cluster doesn't come on and miles are not registered (you can still erase the miles with a computer if they are less than 100, but they do this anyway), maybe check the big connector on the ABS pump to see if it's properly on.

>Radiator temperature difference
I think I might have a bad thermostat, what are normal temperatures for radiator hoses?

Higher one is 83c and lower one is 52c.

Also, the thermostat is under the distributor, is there anything special I should know about removing it and setting it back up? I assume bad timing won't fuck things up as much as a bad timing belt.

The higher one is the one that counts, it should be at normal temp, whichever may that may be for your car (probably 90°C).
Usually a bad thermostat causes the coolant to take a lot of time to heat up and possibly to stay lower than normal if it's particularly cold outside.

What does your temp gauge says? Is it always in the middle?

Always in the middle, then it overheats but stays in the middle.

I think it's overheating, when it gets too hot it shits all the oil out and I only notice when I lose power. Never drips when it's parked.

I figured the thermostat must be stuck closed, not open. Or the pump.

Either way I have everything I need to change the thermostat so it's getting done.

I can't quite remember but there should be about 5-8*C difference between the hoses. Not the 30* you're seeing. Does it overheat? How long did you drive it when you took these readings and what's the ambient temperature?

Yes, bad timing can fuck an engine up. If it's too advanced it'll ping and if it's retarded you'll have no power. If it's run off the end of the camshaft that's easy to put back into place, you only have to worry about setting initial advance/retard.
If it's driven off a helical gear you'll need to put it on TDC on #1 cylinder and pray you don't get it 1 tooth off.

Changing a thermostat is pretty straightforward anyway

>it shits all the oil out and I only notice when I lose power.
wat

Hows the difference in the Tacoma 2.4 vs 2.7 5 speeds?

Ambient was 25c drove it to the carwash and back, 2-5km.

Should be easy but they made it difficult in my engine. Put it under the distributor.

>On a trip
>Check the oil
>Oil full
>Drive 20k
>Up a hill, suddenly won't accelerate
>Oil empty
>Engine smoking
>Temp gauge is sitting happily just below half way

>>Oil empty
>>Engine smoking
i think your problem is a bit worse than faulty temp gauges

That might not be enough distance to open the thermostat.
Does it overheat on a flat road after a few km or was it just that hill? Because heating up on a hill is pretty normal.

I know there's bigger problems, but they only seem to come out when it gets too hot. So I'm doing the cheaper things to keep it from getting too hot.

Fixing the real problems will cost more than the car is worth.

Only on the hill in summer.
I'll take it for a longer drive tomorrow and take some more reading.

>want to change timing belt in my backyard
>cant be that hard right just gotta change a belt and make sure not to move crank nor camshaft
>look in the shop manual for my car
>big run around involving removing the crank pulley and other shit
cant i just change the belt and leave the crank pulley on?
i just gotta slip the timing belt behind it right?

>Cut the belt in half as a strip
>Pull one half off
>Slide new belt halfway on
>Cut other half of old belt off
>Slide new belt all the way on

>Only on the hill in summer.
Hill means more load on the engine (more heat) and lower speed (less airflow, even more heat)
If anything you have bent fins or bugs in your radiator. Or your cooling fan isn't working properly. Or both.

You have to take the pulley off to get the timing belt cover off.

Fins are clean and straight, radiator is relatively new.

There's two fans, one spins and I assumed the other comes on when it's hot enough. I'll try getting it "hot enough" and see if it comes on or is fuckes.

i dont understand at all
>You have to take the pulley off to get the timing belt cover off.
holy fuck that sounds like a giant fuck around

You can test the fan by pulling the relay and jumping the switched terminals.
Or unplugging the fan and hooking it up directly to the battery.

It's not a "giant fuck around" it's pretty damn easy.

Nope, the pulley has to come off because that's probably the only way to remove the belt covers, and the external pulley is much larger than the timing pulley, which makes removing/inserting the belt much more difficult if not impossible.

Also, the timing pulley may have alignment marks on it, so you have to remove the external pulley anyway to see them and make sure you get the timing right.

Don't be a pussy, it's either one big bolt or 4 small bolts to remove the pulley.
If you go as far as deciding to do a timing job in your backyard, removing a pulley is the least of your concerns

Usually there's a mark on the timing pulley and an arrow or something on the oil pump housing.
The one that really had me scratching my head lately was a Geo Metro. Dimple on the timing pulley, nothing on the oil pump housing.
Turns out the dimple lined up with the tensioner spring screw lol.

>Usually there's a mark on the timing pulley and an arrow or something on the oil pump housing.

"Usually" the markings are all over the place, they might be on the oil pump, the water pump, the engine block, part of the timing cover that is not supposed to come off, the oil pan, you name it.
It all depends on how shit is organised on the timing side of the engine.

The timing marks on the external pulley are usually on cars that are equipped with a distributor or on engines that no longer have distributors, but still use old hardware (like pulleys), because that way you can set your distributor without taking apart a lot of stuff.
I wouldn't use those markings because the corresponding arrow that aligns with the pulley mark is sometimes on the timing cover (for the aforementioned reason) and you still need to remove the cover anyway so you can't use that.

I don't know what engine OP may be working on, but removing a pulley is literally 4 bolts at worst and it makes your life so much easier when changing a timing belt.

>Put engine at #1 compression TDC
>Remove accessory drive belt
>Remove accessory drive pulley
>Remove upper and lower timing belt covers
>Remove timing belt
>Remove timing belt tensioner
>Remove water pump (Because you should change it whenever you do the timing belt)
>Install new water pump
>Install new timing belt tensioner
>Lock tensioner all the way over in maximum slack position
>Move cam pulley ~1/2 cog in direction of engine rotation
>Install belt with slack on tensioner side
>Release tensioner
>Lock tensioner wherever it sits
>Turn engine over at least twice by hand
>Recheck timing marks, if they don't line up repeat timing belt installation process until they do
>Put covers, accessory pulley and belt back on
>You're done.

Time elapsed: 4-5+(1*number of cams) hours

Purchased a 09 vibe that had been in a minor mva mostly cosmetic. Looking for some quick tips on repairing it.

Ordered a bumper cover from paint n' ship on ebay. Are they generally fairly accurate with their color matches?

Also, the lower air resonator was destroyed its a 90 dollar part. Is it worth it to buy another one or just leave it off? Seems to drive and run fine without it.

Depends on what size radio slot you have but yes it's doable

Should I?
oklahomacity.craigslist.org/cto/5942590930.html

JUST DOOOO IT
a realy nice car to built up and have fun with it

Sup there fellow Oklahomo. Where you live at?

Also rev up that por-15 because that nigger is going to be even more rusted than it looks in those shots.

How much should I offer a dealer for an '06 unmolested Hawkeye WRX with 150,000 miles, extensive maintenance records, and a clean vehicle history report?

3-owner, dealer has it listed at 10,500.

I'm in Tulsa but I spend a lot of time in Edmond visiting my dad too.

Yeah I expect it's going to be pretty bad. My dad always helps out this family with money or watching their kids and the man supposedly does good bodywork, so hopefully I'd get a good deal on some work.

There's even a clean e31 head listed on Craigslist too. I have some spare money and I had planned to buy some parts for my FRS and then save up for a Z. It's sooo tempting.

So I removed the central console of my car (Volvo C30) to find a faulty connector and I found an optic fibre cable coming out of the radio unit.

What's the deal with that? I have never seen such a cable in other cars and I was wondering what advantage it may have over a traditional wiring harness

Passenger side door sill is dented after getting acquainted with a riverbank. I can open and shut the the door but only if I go full linebacker and hit/lift it like a pro.
Any reason I shouldn't just take a hammer to it? Car's already a beater.

There are so many options for basic test tools out there. What is a cheap yet complete enough tool for
>fuel pressure test
>ignition spark test
>compression test
>radiator pressure test.

I want tools that are good quality, but aren't incredibly expensive

Question bump before I leave work

I'd try to get them down a bit due to the high mileage.

Like a grand? I'd be okay with 9,500.

I just don't want to get laughed out of the dealership for lowballing since I look younger and they may not take me seriously.

Evo VIII, IX or X?

I have to buy new battery for my Mazda6 diesel. Size is 303mm x 173mm x 220mm, 95Ah and about 760-830A starting current would be good.
What I found: Exide, Dupex, Varta, Bosch, Baren, Banner. I heard that Exide, Bosch and Varta are not as good as epensive, Dupex lasted 5.5 years. What should I buy? I don't mind if it costs 100 or 140, justbe good and last long, but not 200. Oh and I'm in Europe, so USDM products are a no go.

Home audio uses fiber optic on occasion to connect devices, it probably serves a similar purpose