/classic car general/ - /ccg/

/classic car general/ - /ccg/

Getting shit done edition

>Post your classic cars and trucks
>Blog about electrical gremlins
>Pray to the carb gods
>Argue about Mopar vs Ford vs Chevy vs Pontiac vs Buick vs Oldsmobile vs Cadillac vs Packard vs Hupmobile vs Deusenberg vs Auburn vs Edsel vs Cord vs Locomobile vs Hudson vs Studebaker vs AMC vs Graham

Other urls found in this thread:

rockauto.com/en/cart/
twitter.com/NSFWRedditGif

>fwd

Fml, why do cars keep finding me and I have no money for them. Yesterday I found a '67-68 New Yorker, today through a coworker I have a potential opportunity to get a cheap Zaporozhets.

>Honda
>Doesn't post a classic civic

I decided to try the Amsoil meme in my Lincoln today; I also got a proper battery (I'd been using the one from my Imperial instead) and, as soon as I fix the battery drain and get new tires, it's ready to go.

Amsoil is good stuff. I convinced a buddy of mine to put it in his 96 F250 and even after 8000km it still looked alright.
Amsoil even has special 40 000 Km oil and filters.

Also, Kat when you get in this thread, it will be worth the time and effort to strip the 302 when you get it on the engine stand and replace all the gaskets and get a good look at everything.
It's so much easier on a stand that there's no reason not to do it

...

I know it's the right thing to do, but I would really rather not shell out the cash for new head studs, new gaskets and the like.

That being said it would make replacing valve springs that much easier

If you aren't ready to pony up a little extra cash for fresh gaskets then just save up another $100

Decent head studs are like 120 dollars a set though.

Don't be a cheap faggot. Do a job properly with the proper materials once. It'll be cheaper. You have a perfectly good engine in the car as is. Take your time and do it right

$169.02 in CAD for engine gasket kit and head studs, before shipping

Post link.

It depends though honestly. I just want to put a v8 in there. If it's clean and tidy under the valve covers then I'll probably pass.

Negro you can pay for it then

>being this poor
This is why nobody takes you seriously
>guys i want to put a good engine in my cucktruck
>but i don't want to pay for it

10 will get you 20 the rings are fucked in that engine and you won't know about it until it's bolted on.

rockauto.com/en/cart/
dunno if that links right or not

Nah but I get what you're saying.

If you pull a 110k mile motor out of a crash damaged explorer, I'll take my chances that the rings aren't fucked.

>If you pull a 110k mile motor out of a crash damaged explorer, I'll take my chances that the rings aren't fucked.
You have absolutely 0 information about how that engine was treated.

Dude.
C'mon.
New gaskets, bearings, and a rering AT THE LEAST.

That way you know you're getting a good platform to make power on. It'll be like starting off with a brand new engine because in effect, you are.

If you're planning on going to studs it'll be much, MUCH easier to do if you're not flopping around in your engine bay or hanging over the side, only to realize the brake booster is in the way of putting the head on.

Just, fucking do everything with the engine out, you dolt.

No, but it was running before it got hit. I would be MUCH more wary of a donor vehicle with a perfect or mildly used exterior.

pic related
I've already rebuilt an engine, you don't need to tell me

Oh sorry dude I quoted the wrong post.

That was meant for Kit Kat, not you. You're alright. Kitkat's being a MASSIVE FUCKING IDIOT.

>No, but it was running before it got hit.
Wow, how telling.
Roadkill had a 360 was trash but it still ran.


>110k miles
So it's also nearing the end of its life.
You might as well rebuild it now and save you the trouble of yanking it back out of the truck

What you're proposing is a full on engine build. I'd go with new higher compression pistons and upgrade as much as I can.

That's not what I'm doing. I'm going for the minimum expense, pull a running motor and throw speed parts on it.

Down the road, I want to build a stroker 408 out of a 351w. That's the money engine. This is what I'm doing as a 21 year old dude who is putting money aside every pay check to build something that beats the piss out of the 300 in it right now.

Believe me when I tell you this won't be the last motor in this truck.

>110k mile hydraulic roller Windsor
>End of life
U wot m8. Seriously. That roadkill motor has like 2 or 3 hundred thousand miles.

I've had Exploders come into the shop I work at with 300 000Km, 110 000 miles is hardly the end of the engine life "In most cases"

>U wot m8. Seriously.
once again
I've heard of 302's needing a rebuild at 90k before.
Why don't you stop being a jew and just check to make sure everything is where it's supposed to be?

>Why don't you stop being a Jew and just check to make sure
Because I don't want to spend 250 on totally refreshing the engine.

Like I said. For a crash damaged vehicle, odds are it was running before it got hit. Logical thinking would state that it had a modicum of maintenance done to it, otherwise it wouldn't be on the road in the first place

I don't think what you are saying is a bad idea, Honestly. I think it's a good idea. I just an not going to do that.

Well, I'VE heard of Chrysler 440s needing a rebuild at 100,000 miles.

Of course they were in a motorhome and at 90% load for their entire life. So unreliable!

Yeah it all depends how they were maintained. The 302 in my Thunderbird had something around
155 000 Km on it and the camshaft was wiped, cylinder 8 was scored as fuck from the piston skirts, and when I took it apart for scrap, the bearings were not in the greatest shape.

The engine block I started with for my rebuild came from a 79 Mustang that ONLY had 66K on it and I stripped it and rebuilt it anyways

Not quite a full rebuild. You're not boring .020 over and fitting new pistons, or replacing pin bearings.

A rering is backyarder tier. A full rebuild is machine shop tier.

>doesn't want to spend 250 refreshing his engine
Faggot why did you buy the motorcycle then. Why did you buy the intake and carb if you aren't interested in spending any money on what actually matters with an engine. You're literally the dumbest person who will ever post on Veeky Forums. I look forward to when you get in over your head and start crying to us.

This is true. My thing is though, if I'm taking all that shit out I might as well replace it with upgraded stuff (aluminum heads, 10.5/11:1 pistons, really good rockers) but I'm not going to spend that much money. There's a chance I could dick myself on this, but I think I'll be alright.

At least pull the heads; if the cylinders are fine, no need to do anything. If not, do it the right way. That's what I did with the 440 in the '74 Dodge I used to have and what I will do with the 440 in my Imperial.

...

Ok. fine.

You can't really buy pistons until you know what the condition of the cylinders is.

You won't know if they're .003 over or .010 over until you pull the heads.

So, then, when you actually DO have the shekels to put into pistons and rockers, and special titanium rod things that penetrate the block, you'll have no engine in your truck because you'll have to pull it to do the rebuild. Instead of, y'know, a good but gutless 300.

But hey don't listen to me or the 4 or 5 other people yelling at you in this thread, what do we know?

Here's a question: What's the best production V8 engine?

How about this. I'm like a month or two from buying the engine. When that happens, well see. It sure as shit will make changing valve springs easier.

Define best

460

>ccg takes shit kat seriously

Yeah, so what?
I take everyone seriously here

...

Depends on how you define best.

For performance: 426 hemi
For reliability and a general workhorse: Chrysler B or LA engines

...

>Dat 429
How's it been running?

it's back in storage back home, but it ran great this past summer.


what about your f250?

MEL

ayyy

Well the only things being produced that are worthy of mentioning is the Voodoo.

Running strong. I'm slowing down on the purchases of parts for the 302 swap because I just bought a motorcycle but is been good. Just got the new heater core hooked up, it's a game changer.

>buy cherry picker harbor freight special
>oh fugg its xbox hueg
>only place I could store it is up against the back wall
>boom down, parked up against it
>car sticks less than half a foot out
>can't close door
>pump it up so the boom is above the trunk
>it fits with THIS much clearance

318, 340, 360, 383, 440 and 426
289, 302, 351, 427, 428 and 429
283, 307, 327, 350, 455, LS1-LS7

Pretty much any mainstream or production v8 are solid, pushrod seems to breed reliability in these cars

What should I name this beast?

bitch

Agatha

moms stair lift

cunty mccuntface

BBC

Did you know the Earth is flat

By best V8, I mean in terms of durability, power, aftermarket, weight, and sound. I'd argue that it's the 440.

425 nailhead

Alternatively, the 455 BBB

The Nigger Picker Upper

Either that or the 460

Nailhead, while really cool, I'd not that good of an engine. Airflow is shit.

>it's a kit Kat regurgitates another tired boomer meme episode again

Tiny valves mayne. This guy knows what's up

The cam has higher lift and duration retard. It is hotter than a lot of aftermarket cams

I'm not sure; I like the 460, but the advantages it has over the 351/400 are minimal and the aftermarket is a lot more limited/expensive.

That's what keeps me from saying that my personal favorite, the Cadillac 472/500 is even a candidate.

And imagine if you put a similar cam in an engine with big ports.

460 has that rod/stroke ratio though, and can rev high. Stroking can get you easy power, at the expense of the ability to rev.

Caddy 500 is such a cool motor. I loved that dirt every day episode with the dual engined Cadillac.

>asks what the best production V8 is
>uses aftermarket as a factor
wew lad

Except those small ports didn't stop the Nailhead from making tons of torque. Not to mention many of the things you're meming about the 460 are true about the nailhead aswell.

It IS a factor in choosing a motor, though. That's what makes a 350 so popular; it's worse than a lot of other motors, but the aftermarket is so expansive that you can do a lot with it for less money.

How mild do you have to build an engine to still be able to sleeper/daily cruise in it, but want to break loose on a WOT without breaking shit every other season.

I was thinking like, RV cam, decent compression heads, and a bored 4 barrel or something.

What motor are we talking here?

Factory heads from Ford where meh, other than CJ and scj heads. There's a gorillion options for the 385 series though to get massive flow.

Nailhead is a sexy engine though, especially when in a Riviera. Makes a great cruiser motor from all that torque.

Yeah but the original question was what was the best production v8. Not what's the best motor Cletus can pick up on the cheap and drop in his shitbarge

For a bone stock motor I'd go with a caddy 500

403 olds. I've mentioned talking about it before, and I think you've responded for my Buick. Just trying to get my plan together for this summer. Goal is around 300 horses, paired with a th350 with a shift kit and a mild stall

Gotcha. At the very least, you'll need to plug smog shit. The thing has decently low compression, so it couldn't hurt to put some higher compression pistons in, with an aluminum intake and some headers.

It still factors in to the equation, but mostly as a determining factor between two already close motors; like the 400 vs. 460. It's also one of the many reasons, for example, a 350 is superior to a 305.

I for one think the 305 is underrated. You can build a 300-350hp 305 for not much money. Not bad for a small light got rod

It's not horrible; it's just not as good as the 350.

Yeah I get that. I'm just saying it isn't just a boat anchor.

True.

What would be the WORST V8 produced?

The Oldsmobile diesel v8 or the Cadillac 8-6-4

To be fair, the Cadillac V8-6-4 wasn't a bad engine; it was the management system on it that was garbage. The 4100 that followed it was worse.

>tfw have 401 Nailhead motor in a 1963 Riviera

It'll cost like $5k to rebuild. Should I just drop a 454 in it? Considering it

If you don't care about originality, there's no reason not to. $5k would get you a great 454.

If you want to do a swap, go 455

i know a guy selling a 67 455 olds from a toronado for 500 bucks

That's not bad. Those motors are torque beasts.

Plus you can say your car is powered by a rocket.

Mentioned I dd a 76 Charger in a land yacht thread. Someone asked for pictures of this rolling paradise. Here you go.

Another angle.

Incoming.

Too bad it doesn't have done Corinthian leather...

nice, i love malaise chargers

I really want a malaise era DD, something exactly like this

>original paint faded to fuck, any color from BROWN, red, blue, cream, white, fucking pea green, anything but black
>faded as fuck AAA sticker on the bumper
>STEELIES
Something like a Fairmont or an Aspen would suit me perfectly

That's what I love about my new Mark V.

It's worn, but still dignified.

I swear i thought you typed "my new girlfriend Mark V"

I can see how you'd get that. "Dignified" and "Girlfriend" can appear similar to someone scanning things.

However, I assure you, I have no intention of dating my car. I haven't given up on finding a 3D woman yet.

>I haven't given up on finding a 3D woman yet.
What 3DPD will share your love for Lincoln?

Why would she have to? My cars are my hobby and an investment. I can afford them and still live comfortably.

Any spouse of mine need not love them, only understand that they bring me joy.

Since I don't smoke but a fine cigar at most twice a year, drink roughly a dram per annum, and have no vices, it is my only hobby; and one I can always fiscally suspend or sell in case of an emergency.

Why would it be a problem?