So I was putting my battery back in my s10 and while tightening the positive side then end of the wrench hit the...

May have fried the ECU.

Sorry if I sound like a tard cuz I kind of am

If it's like the ignition fuse, or fuel pump fuse that went out, but thats very unlikely. Did you already check the fuses?

I'm gonna check in like 5 min. All I remember was tightening the positive and then a spark and then nothing

Well check fuses first, then go from there. Update when you check

What specific fuses am I checking for? Just any blown one's?

did you finish tightening the terminal or did you stop when it sparked? give er a few more turns to be sure

Truck is dead, throw it away.

I stopped when it sparked. It was already tight tho when it sparked

I kekd

Maybe fried a ground

How would I check that?

Yes

So there were no blown fuses

do you have any power at all? will lights turn on?
can you hear the bendix in the starter (do it click all clicky like)?

>So I was putting my battery back in my s10 and while tightening the positive side then end of the wrench hit the negative and sparked.

You did NOT say how long, so that means you only touched it for an instant in time. Sometimes inductive loads can get a voltage spike if you have a fast sequence of power spikes that results from brushing a short across the battery.

But you'll have to progressively test. If nothing works, then you should disconnect the battery carefully. In my car, the order is to connect the positive first. That way if anything touches a part, no short can occur. The negative is connected last because it is a single cable with a lot of clear space around it.

My car's security system has to go thru a reset procedure with my keyfob and the key in the ignition like off and on several times. Otherwise the computer doesn't match up its codes to other parts of the car. The radio and touchscreen settings controller need to identify to the system too after power has been out. They don't work otherwise since they could have been stolen and put into a different car whose security codes don't match up. That's why carjackings occur since they need that keyfob with the code in it.

That's a 1985, so it has no security systems to synch. Touching shouldn't have made it fail unless he had some sort of Viper car alarm and immobilizer put in. If so, he may have to reset it if he bought the immobilizer option.

Time to check for the smell of anything burning. If so, disconnect the negative lead of the battery and keep it away from the terminal to prevent accidental contact. Now sniff around.

If nothing burning, then open your car door. The dome light should turn on. If not, then press the emergency hazard light flasher. The lights should blink. If no blinking, then that's two separate fused circuits out so it probably is not individual small fuses but some bigger fuse or the internal connection in the battery melted.

Newer cars had fuses in three places. A giant rectangular slab-like fuse on top or near the battery, a fusebox under the hood typically on the driver's side, and then a fusebox in the passenger cabin. But your 1985 has fuses in two places (hood, cabin).

If no bigger fuse is detected blown, by quick observation for a cloudy window, then it's pretty tedious to pull and replace one by one. Read the owner's manual to see the fuse positions and check the larger fuses to the starter relay and fuel pump.

You'll now use your digital battery charger to test the battery. If the battery is bad, it will say so. If you only have an older battery charger, then use the smallest amp setting. If the battery refused to even conduct, then it's prolly bad now. The stores have battery testers and can verify before selling you a new battery.

>You'll now use your digital battery charger to test the battery.

*continued*
A quick note. You should disconnect the negative of the battery at this point and make it so that it doesn't accidentally re-touch the terminal or battery charger. You can then use the charger to check the battery.

The reason for disconnecting the battery from the car is so that when you connect the charger to the battery, if the battery was "OPEN CIRCUIT", your charger will not be sending its higher voltage into the car's system. A non-open battery normally serves as a voltage limiting device, but if open circuited, it cannot do that. Don't be sloppy. Connect the positive from the charger to the battery terminal and of course you didn't let the negative drag across any part of the car. Now connect the negative from the charger to the battery. If the charger says the battery is good, then okay. Hmmmm. It's a mystery to me now.

>So I was putting my battery back in my s10
Did you verify if the battery was fully charged or not?

So there's no click or anything from the vehicle. I'll do the tests on if tomorrow because I'm at work. The battery was fully charged when it was going in if that helps. Thank you for the responses.

Good luck.

Might've fucked the battery. Try a jumpstart.

Did you check all the fuses? Don't know about your car, but there are several fuse boxes usually in a car

The easiest check is to open the door. If the dome light doesn't come on, then battery power is not getting to the car.

Try the headlights. If they don't come on, then press the brake pedal. If the brake lights don't glow, then no power. The first thing to check is some sort of main fuse wherever it is.

But OP has to verify that the battery is working first. With the battery connected in the car, OP should check to see if there is voltage across the battery terminals of 12.6 volts since he said the battery is fully charged.