Aftermarket Brakes

What's good? What's bad? Is Rotora reputable?

oem unless you're tracking it. then wilwood, brembo, etc...

baer brakes or you can get blank discs and an aftermarket caliper

So they are all about the same?

neo motorsports seems good too

This. Your factory calipers and rotors will do just fine even when tracking.
Unless you're actively racing the car there's no need to upgrade anything besides the pad compound.

Either that or you have more HP added to the car that the brakes can't handle

Drilled n slotted

these
also drilled rotors in a meme

Spoken like true bus riders.
So you guys think a corolla works good with stock brakes. Yeah no shit. Even a 350 can overheat and lose braking power in less then 10 min.

drilled and slotted are just ways of reducing weight of the disk. Drilled is more prone to cracking and warping since there is a lot less surface area to absorb heat so you'll over heat more but if you increase the diameter of the disk the more surface area you have but that kills the lightweight of them, adding mass.
Pretty much drilled and slotted do nothing to cool the disks but reduce weight. Doing anything with cooling is just snake oil advertised by manufacturers.

Incorrect

>muh mums corolla needs xbox hueg wilwood brakes that cost twice as much as the cars value

Are you tracking your mums corolla?

I should've said "volume" instead of "surface area". My bad

*correction
drilled and slotted are just ways of reducing weight of the disk. Drilled is more prone to cracking and warping since there is a lot less volume to absorb heat so you'll over heat more but if you increase the diameter of the disk the more volume you have but that kills the lightweight of them, adding mass.
Pretty much drilled and slotted do nothing to cool the disks but reduce weight. Doing anything with cooling is just snake oil advertised by manufacturers.

I should stop drunk posting

fucking did it again, fuck

Almost fell for the caliper upgrade but when with slotted and bendix ultimate pads it stops on a dime didn't even touch rear brakes they are stock

Big brakes and wheels are for wank factor and benchracers

Look i know its hard to believe but people can buy many other cars besides a corolla. Try it sometime.
Also read faggot.

Horseshit I found larger alloys helped keep brakes cool and 17-18" was the sweet spot.

Steelies overheated and boils fluid alot quicker

Nissin

lol
for real though you're incorrect on the purpose of drilling and slotting
Brake fade is caused by hot brake pads outgassing, the layer of gas between the pad and the rotor means no pad->rotor friction
Slots and holes give the gas somewhere to escape but they came about because of the shitty material pads were made of. Good modern pads will handle higher temps before fading. and beefier (ie heavier, non-drilled) rotors will absorb more energy before getting hot

You shouldn't care about rotors being too heavy, the mass is close enough to the center of rotation that the tradeoff in brake performance isn't worth it, in fact the cheapest shittiest rotors are usually the lightest because the manufacturer is skimping on materials

>Even a 350 can overheat and lose braking power in less then 10 min.
That's because Nissan is notorious for putting shitty ass pads and fluids in their recent Z cars

eh drilled does deal with outgassing
slotted is for better initial bite (but much worse pad life)
they both reduce weight and rotational inertia
better brake fluid and pads though > big brake kits

Race pads, steel hoses and high performance brake fluid will be fine unless you want to put it through some SERIOUS track abuse, or you're buying them to be a streetrace faggot who wants attention: "YO BRO CHEK DEM BRAKES BRO WHATS SHE PACKIN UNDA DA HOOD BRO!"

Wew JDM qualify

some cars do get brake fade from moderate hooning or stock calipers just plain suck.
usually there are oem "upgrades" you can do.
like the 240sx has shit calipers, q45, z32/3 calipers can be installed and a bigger master cylinder and it's good. if you actually track it it's great, and can do as good or better than someone with stock calipers and $300 pads while using rockauto cheapo pads or run good pads and it's even better.
it's great for hooning on a budget

HP has no effect on the effectiveness of brakes. Brakes are affected by weight and speed. If your brakes are failing in spirited driving you own a shitty shutbix, something more serious will break and you will die.

>tfw that image was literally me 6 years ago

Holy shit I'm so thankful man. Working at Mickey Deez and bus riding was no fun. Smelling like fries and making 7.25 hourly wage thinking it was the best thing that I could get is depressing to look back on.

Pretty ones

are most 2pots up to the task of actually racing?

Has anyone done braking test comparisons on youtube with the same pads and discs or is it a meme under normal driving conditions w/o fade

Those are 4 pots.

Noob here when they say "4 pot" they mean 2 both sides of each calipers right?

yes

I track a supercharged 2011 Mustang and on stock brembos I had noticeable fade after 2 laps. The factory brembo package was only front 4 pots and didn't touch the rears. I contacted brembo and got their 6 pot fronts and 4 pot rears. Had to go to 20 inch wheels, but no ragrets. They work amazing. If I overheat these I'll look at going carbon ceramic

i notice my old 2 pots (single sided) always stick on my cars and dont wear evenly on the rotor or pads

rotating them gets more life but its a pita

Still factory 4 pots and memewoods costs alot of money here so its hardly worth it

>HP has no effect on the effectiveness of brakes. Brakes are affected by weight and speed
Yes and having more horsepower means you will be at a higher speed everytime you get on the brakes when you're tracking.

Therefore more power = more speed, and the need for better brakes.

You're so fucking dumb I'll explain it one more time.

I normally hit 80mph at the end of the main straight. I can only take turn 1 at 50 mph, so I have to scrub 30mph off my speed.
Now I have a turbo on my car and am hitting 110 at the end of the straight. I can still only go 50 through turn 1 so I have to reduce my speed by 60mph, twice as much as before. This heats up my brakes considerably more, and I will need better brakes if I want to keep racing.

Jesus God you are dumb.

Yeah sounds like they should be staggered piston sizes.
You can overcome it by installing the pads slightly misaligned.

I have Powerstop Extreme rotors and pads on my Tundra. They're really good for towing, and were only $370 for the whole kit.

I also have a complete Wilwood kit on my turbo miata. They're overkill, even with Toyo Proxes R1R's. Yeah they're good but also pretty pricey at $800 and they make a loud clack everytime you touch the brakes due to the pads being drop-ins and having a little wiggle room.

No shim kits?

I can assure you, they should not be clacking.

>Aftermarket Brakes
Until your brakes can't lock your tires, you have all the braking you need.

>also drilled rotors in a meme
What if drilled rotors are OEM?

Clacking means the shoes are moving around as I said it probably needs a shim kit or something else is FUBAR

LOL!! Nice one!

Then it's still a meme

Drilled only makes stock size rotors worse slotted and thicker cooling fins on rotors is better

What brakes are cute?
I want CUTE

Yeah but they look cool

the only downside to drilled is the increased chance of cracking.

>Then it's still a meme
Even when they are 14.1" diameter?

A lot of you guys are making assumptions here. Of course I am asking about a track application. My 240SX with Q45 brakes and porterfield race pads is having a hard time keeping the brakes cool after a few laps at the local 2-mile track. Pondering upgrade options/brands.

no idea who porterfield are so they're probably shit.
try ducting some air towards them

Bike brakes a cute. CUTE!

I meant slotted oops
Look at drag cars and tell me they can't stop

This. Duct cooling air.

you're a retard, you just agreed with him that speed is one of the major factors in braking effectiveness.

and then you tried to play it off like power and speed are the same thing to sound like you had something different to say.

Nice sweeping generalization.

Never mind the fact that any quality drilled discs hold up just fine even on the touge.

>even on the touge

as if that's actually stressful on the brakes lol

For when money is no object.

BREMBO
R
E
M
B
O

those arent even carbon ceramics
are you sure pic was related?

brembo is oem tier. they just make what they are told to.

>gee bill how come your mum lets you have 16 pistons?

again why steel rotors?

Reading this thread, I realized why I stopped coming here.

>there's no need to get bigger brakes if you have more horsepower

holy shit, I'm out.

you make that sound like a bad thing

who wants to pay 10 grand for a set of replacement discs and pads

I'm sure. the OEM carbon ceramic pads and rotors of a Porsche 997 are made by Alcon and they cost $19K. An entire brake kit with steel rotors for an R35 GT-R is like $16K.

since the gtr costs, well its overpriced, it should have some decent brakes. but it doesnt. such a pos. even the Z28 had better brakes stock

I agree. It's a shame Nissan didn't make new updated versions of the SpecV.

nigger, all else remaining the same, a car with more hp will go faster. what part of that did you miss out on?

Ummm, why are the rotors black?

You didn't paint them right? Right?

> 17-18" was the sweet spot.

And F1, with 13" rim dia, and probably some of the best brakes ever on a race car...

Really makes you think...

I re-did the entire front brakes of my car including rebuilding the calipers, new hardware, with zimmerman rotors and akebono ceramic pads for $300 bucks.

Or you could buy a pair of slotted rotors for the same price minus everything else.

Ask yourself if you actually need aftermarket brakes on your vehicle.

They come from Wilwood like that, just a rust prevention coating. Instructions say to leave it on and do brakes break in and it'll remove it. Doesn't clog the pads or anything.

F1 cars weigh 1500 lbs.