Moment of silence for the thaw experienced by the East Coast and the deep freeze experienced by the central states / provinces. Stay safe and stay off the pavement.
>still requesting bread on hood from the FJ40.
>still requesting pics of deuce convo.
>still waiting on /ORG/ stickers to be implemented onto our crawlers
Back to the topic of the Suburban Master Race.
>Ifs with shitty electronic actuator in diff that is prone to failure
>Master race
Nah nigga, nah
Got a chance to trim the fenders, no more rubbing up front.
The thermal actuator was the shitty one, either way there's a super cheap kit you can buy to lock the front diff in manually.
And you don't have to keep it IFS.
>dat pic
>see you on /ORG/ bro
Damn that's comfy.
Question
My buddy got stuck in my driveway full of ice inhis 2010 Forester
>hur dur symmetrical AWD
My self in my little pickup drove out of the same spot in 4x4.
Whats the difference here?
>both weigh about the same
>subaru has more power
>dumb 4x4 vs smart AWD
I dont get why he got stuck and i didnt.
"Tacofag slides off a cliff in the fucking snow and fucking dies" edition
But hey I got a new stickie! Waiting on my /org/ one still :v
Could be your tires, could be his FWD bias versus your RWD bias, could be your friend driving like a goob
Owe you caught me in the feels. Too bad I upgraded to a hand operated putterinner and now can use 2L.
No one told you that you had to keep the IFS.
They are dank as fuck. I like em.
Tires or diff
>got my project actually done before spring
Guess I'll just keep making it better. Anyone got some recommendations. I want to go fast on sand.
Well ive been thinking of buying a mk2 RAV4 because of the 50/50 awd, but now im having second thoughs because it would perform much like the subaru
Flamethrowers.
Or maybe some bigger wheels and tires?
Would a rollcage be asking too much?
Everything except the flame throwers is a planned addition pending funds and skills (roll cage)
Some 18" wide tires mounted on 14" wide wheels on the back and some tall skinny tires on the front
Also weld the diff
This might sound ignorant but is there actually much value in welding a LSD?
I recommend some old school Micky Thomson Baja belted tires if you can find some used
LSD diffs slip, welded diffs don't.
consider a windsheild?
True enough famalam
Retired the reindeer cosplay tonight. 21 gun salute and all...
Also went to mount the new shoes, but they're jammed up, too much for the impact driver. Gonna have to bring out the big guns. In the meantime no snowrolling for the forseeable future, as an ice jam on the river is flooding all the nearby trails. :-(
Ayyyyyy! Haven't seen you around these parts. Interesting place to mound those Hellas. Is that a 6.5? Details on the rig?
>thermal actuated front diff
Yup, you got me there. The Achilles heel on these. My old Blue Burb busted that after a few large jumps. Need to upgrade Murphy soon...
I like how Suburban owners are coming out of the woodwork. No disrespect, but It's comfy to know Burbalade and I are not alone in a sea of Tacos haha.
Loose or pourches
>White letter BFGs with pathetic amounts of tread left
AW YEEAAAAHH
>sea of tacos
I don't know what you're talking about
Go away we're having a moment.
...
Sry
that is a very nervous toyota
>Also on 16.5 rims, a size nobody makes tires for anymore...
If I'm going to make bad decisions, might as well go overboard on it.
yellowtext story pls
bring the windsor back to canada, fampai
his wallet probably did.
i'm still down to take that D50 (maybe in the spring) off you since it looks like swapping a 50 is much, much easier than a 60 without much reward. I mean, what is a Ranger even gonna do with a D60...
>inb4
>cucc-ing yourself this hard
>"need"
FUCK YOU LEAF
SAM-54R
Sold it to my roommate. However swapping in a Dana 50 is the EXACT same amount of work as swapping in a Dana 60. The advantage of the 50 is that they're a lot cheaper.
Start my new job making street sweeper attachments Monday, then I can start pumping more dolarydoos into my rolling money pit and get it finished up
Old pick is old
Lemme try out my new Mountain Goat call. Hopefully one shows up.
>Yapping, little shit dog
No, just no
Maybe a lab or German shepherd or Blu tick hound but definitely not a happy ankle biter
safe travels doggo
>mocking dogs of any kind unless they are meanies
kys
>not having your ankles bitten
>devoiding yourself of the joy of happy ankle biters
it's like you hate life
I'm not good at greentext
>going up to the snow this weekend for skiing
>I have a SoCal Tacomas meet so I come up separate from my dad and my brother
>this last weekend the area got around 4 feet of snow or some shit
>The drive up is all switchbacks overlooking cliffs
>I am from San Diego
>I have no experience driving in snow
>I have summer tires
>I don't have 4x4
Not that exciting but basically I had a hard time getting up here
Safe travels, doggo!
If it's back sits lower than my knee I don't even recognize them as dogs, they're more like very loud and annoying rodents
Small dogs are hyper alert which means they bark at anything and everything if it's a threat or not and they're too small to fight of anything bigger than a toddler
where'd your chains go!?
Probably going to do a 3" suspension lift on this pig, also digital dash swap. Transmission is shot, though.
Should I find a new tranny and rehab the 100HP 4cyl, or just say fuck it and go all out and swap in a 350, 700r4, + t-case?
...
Only if you don't train them well enough. The downside is that people who get mutts that yap a lot are themselves also annoying. Otherwise, you can get them down to a containable degree.
Nowadays, I have a cute little pomeranian that looks like a fox who accompanies me on rides. I can see why you think they're loud annoying rodents, though, lmao. But will kindly disagree with you.
I also used to have a half terrier (or something) that would fight anything remotely mobile that was not part of my family. It killed like a crow its own size once somehow and dragged it around the lawn.
Might be annoying with the placement of the frame bolted front skid (considering it is like the same price as the D50 you were selling) and how the driveshaft is connected. It'll be another week before I literally don't know, lol.
All things considered, I do so much high way driving, it could just not be worth getting rid of the IFS that Ferd spent 5-7 years trying to make more and more comfortable.
By shot. Do you mean someone shot airsoft pellets are the transmission? Because that's what the hood and entire exterior look like.
( we used to take pre- derby cars on drive bys around a parking lot shooting airsoft guns at each others cars. shit was cash af but our vehicles would look like that afterwards)
Chains are sitting in the back seat. I was never stopped me to put them on, so I just went up the 1 and a half-hour drive up with naked tires because I'm either a pretty decent driver or I'm completely retarded
>aka wheel spinning your 2wd rusted shitbox up a mountain while crying general
NICE RADIALS FAGGOT
Trans rebuild is going to cost about $1500 and about that +/- a few hundred to rebuild the motor if you do the disassembly/reassembly your self
You can get a full Chevy drive train for $5-800 plus any custom stuff to make it fit plus a new radiator and custom driveshafts and all the extra time you have to put in
How much work do you want to do?
Currently putting a Chevy v8 in a ranger and there's a lot of fenagling and "well, let's see if this fits... Nope, well shit now what" that goes into putting a Chevy motor into a mini truck that's not an s10
In August, the sky decided that we hadn't had enough excitement recently, and decided to drop tangerine sized hail.
The parking lots looked like a war zone.
There was a problem with the transmissions, where the pilot bearing would disintegrate, and allow shaft play. Unchecked, this would stress and kill all the bearings in the transmission. It howls in every gear besides 4th, and shifts terribly.
The dilemma is:
>new transmission, repair engine, ~100 HP
or
>swap 350 for big torks in small truck
I'm willing to spend a few months making it work. According to other people that have done the swap, a 700r4 will fit right in the existing trans tunnel/cross-member.
The difficult part I think is going to be making 4x4 work, as I'm going to have to find a driver's side xfer case and get custom drivelines made.
Post ifs Chevys are driver side drop so that's easy, driveshafts will cost about $250 a piece (YMMV)
You also have to factor in that your factory axles may not hold up to a v8
kekd
t. memespouter
How'd you let it get that bad? Genuinely asking. Not mocking you.
Also lmao at the 100HP 4cylinder. I would honestly recommend just replacing or getting a whole new vehicle at this point.
Otherwise, you could do an entire innards swap and try and fit in a V8 or old I6. You also wouldn't have to care where the V8 or I6 comes from since you'll be switching the transmission and probably transfer case in order to accommodate the new everything. So all those small nubs will need to be changed out as well.
The downside is that if you don't have someone with the crane and weather proof area to do it, you'll be looking at $3000-$10000 for the job where you could just get another vehicle for that price.
Tyre choices, which is best for the front of my truck. Worn Hankook Dynapro M/T with 3-4mm of tread, pretty evenly worn. Or near new Dynapro AS (basically an H/T) with 8+mm tread all across. Terrain is rocky like pic related with occasional mud and river crossings. The H/Ts are what's currently fitted and I got the M/Ts for free off a friend but I'm unsure if I bother fitting them as they don't have a whole lot of life left. I don't wanna buy tyres because the truck was $300 and has a cracked head I'm just driving it till it dies.
You can still use your tyres after your trucc dies, btw. Unless they're something like 26s and don't really want to deal with reselling / swapping after your trucc goes into the incinerator.
safe travels doggo
All you need is a stout tree limb and a chainfall
Two sheets of 3/4" plywood if you don't have a concrete pad and a pop up canopy and some tarps for shelter
Yes that's true. My rears are 275/70r16 muddies so it's a pretty awkward size to find, and not common enough to be really cheap.
Wild country M/Ts are a good choice, perform good in mud sand and rock but also handle OK on pavement and aren't too loud and they aren't too expensive
More treecrane for the hell of it
Supposedly the rear end on the hardbody is good to 500HP, only time will tell if that's true.
No worries, I bought the truck as it is now. Got it super cheap after the hailstorm, as the previous owner didn't want to deal with it.
I needed some 4x4 for this winter, and I've come to like the thing.
A 2 ton engine crane can be had for $200 on CL here.
I think I might as well do it, it will provide a good way to increase my mechanical skills and I'll end up with a pretty cool truck in the end.
One of the biggest clearance issues you'll hit is the exhaust manifolds. Center dump manifolds should clear everything by a cunt hair or two, you could also try the headers designed for s10 v8 swaps
Bigger radiator and electric fan is a must and if you're going carbed you either need to get a good pressure regulator or unhook the stock fuel pump and run a carb specific pump or mechanical pump
this is the most redneck shit i haev ever seen
keep up the good work user
>BUT WAIT THERE'S MORE
...
Why would the exhaust manifolds be an issue exactly? As he stated , he's in an odd position where he's not just doing an engine swap but a transmission gearbox, and probably axle modification if he's going up in HP and generally all the moving parts.
If he's even considering it, it's a bit harder to do with all the little growing pains. But it is much, much easier to source all the material and cut them down (as long as he sticks with a V6 anyway) with help from a fabricator or modern blacksmith.
It's not every day that people gut the entire interior of the vehicle.
I guess my question is why the exhaust manifolds themselves would be exceptionally difficult?
I've seen this picture at least three times and have always been impressed that you rigged up a system to trust despite a 0.1% chance of it snapping and just dropping right through your hood. I'm so glad you also posted and because it has now made me significantly more comfortable despite looking pretty damn sketch and really unsafe, hehe.
I'm glad you ended up staying around on /ORG/ despite not knowing why we keep having these threads
If that's the case, depending on where you live, it could just not be worth fixing the trucc up, then.
Like, sure. You'll have a really fun time with it driving on new tyres but it seems like any one large bump or sudden drop (AND ESPECIALLY IF YOU'RE MUDDING) could cause your vehicle to flatline and leave you stranded for a few hours.
I would say just buy new tyres (or new-ish tyres) and put them on whichever vehicle you are planning on getting.
Run them on whatever you have now and abuse your vehicle as much as you can until you finally get your vehicle next.
Also remember to film the viking funeral
He was talking about swapping in a Chevy 350 and bigger motor+smaller truck=clearance issues. I'm dealing with pretty much the same situation putting a sbc into a 84 ranger and was passing on some info I had to learn the hard way
Standard rear dump manifolds end up right on top of the frame rails, center dumps fall just inside and leave enough room to hook up exhaust pipes
For the record I did test the limb first by hooking a strap the the front axle and lifting the front of the truck up about 6" off the ground
>everyone doing SBC 350 swaps
>I'm taking mine out
Oh I missed that part completely and am hideously drunk right now. Sorry.
What made you consider doing an SBC swap into your old Ranger shitbox? Seems like you're also coming along other issues aside from just brand incompatibility. That is good to know. Is this project current or has it already been accomplished?
My 2010 Ranger suffers from a similar issue with the rails and their annoying placement around a bunch of other things. First being the top of the overly complex IFS system. From my mech's experience, I've heard it's easier to put an old reliable windsor into a Chevy than it is to put an old Chevy anything into these compact Fords.
Lmao. Well if it's at like 300-500, go buy 20lbs of tannerite for $15 and give it a viking funeral with a .50 cal.
Be safe though, pls.
When the apocalypse/ race war/ communist civil revolution happens in the next few years, you're welcome in my North Ontario cabin any time, user.
I have 50 cans of cod liver, 50 untapped maple syrup trees, and around 5 old SKSs that should keep you warm.
It's a current project between me and my brothers
>Brother has $400 84 ranger
>DD it for two years trans shits itself after John force tier burnout
>Trade some stuff we got for free for a running SBC so we say fuck it it's going in
>Get nv4500 out of s10 for $100
Still needs a few odds and ends but it's coming together
Ooooh. That is part the American vehicular dream. Serendipitous auto finds that you end up placing on your vehicle just because the timing is right. Keep up the good work!
Post up some pictures of the set-up and work station when you get a chance, user.
NV3500, the NV4500s never came in the S-10s, only the larger trucks.
I'll date you.
What? We run 33x12.5x16.5 on our family 3/4ton work bitch. Check discount tire yo, they'll special order for you.
>Lmao. Well if it's at like 300-500, go buy 20lbs of tannerite for $15 and give it a viking funeral with a .50 cal.
No can do. It's going into another Suburban.
White leader standing by
On average, how much do you guys spend in gas/diesel every week?
How many miles per week?
what a weird qeustion to ask on org
there was a guy a while back who got 3mpg if he was towing a trailer
>Florida
>middle of January
>77°F
>Two cold days all season
I don't particularly care for really cold weather but come on, I look forward to not sweating to death in the winter and here I am sweating like a whore in church. Maybe it will snow here again in my lifetime
>a whore in church
You're either under 22 or over 50.
24 at the end of next month. When you hear a phrase or saying your whole life it tends to stick in your mind
Last owner. Haven't removed it yet.
I hear yeah. Just moved to Oregon from AZ.
average weekly fuelup is about $27
i drive a stock xj (4.0/aw4) missing the after cat o2 sensor and average 12.5mpg city
Taynger eats around $400-500 in gas a month running around 3000-4000/month.
It's a buck a litre here give or take 10 cents.
>tfw $1.30/litre
$45 or about 19 gallons a week
I get worse highway mpg than city due to no overdrive and 4:10 gears with. The ol' girl tops out at 70mph so even doing 55 she's screeming.
The Taco goes through a tank about every week. Not sure how many miles I do, but gas is low right now at about $2.95/gallon so I only spend like $50 on one tank
Do you know if there's room to add an overdrive gear or would you have to swap it out for a whole new transmission? I had a friend with an old 70s Camaro that was a (relatively) simple bolt on overdrive add-on since they made the transmissions with overdrive for other vehicles and simply didn't add the gear system for the Camaro. So that way, he didn't have to fidget around with adding length or welding.
I know if it were me, doing that upgrade / swap would save me money in the long run but this is /ORG/ so not many do lots of highway dribing.
Mine used to be 4.10s and with a 4 inch wider tyre swap, it's something silly like 4.6 right now. I still manage 16 highway mpg until I can get those keys swapped out and get those mpgs back 2 or 3 more points. But then again, I also do like 130/140 on the highway for hours on end to make time so my highway gas mileage isn't supposed to used as a bar, lol.
Where do you live that uses the $ as currency AND has it that cheap? Alaska? Hawaii?
>Alaska
>cheap
Wew
I meant "that expensive".
$1.30 is pretty expensive. Whoops.
That's CAD, and it works out to approx. $5.50/gallon
I've seen some people do an auxiliary overdrive box but that's expensive and involves adapters and a second shifter ECT. I could swap it with an nv4500 but then I lose the super low Granny gear
I'm planning on going up to 33s so I should pick op some mpgs after I figure out the speedo difference
Ouch
It's $2.33/gallon here in central FL and that's up 14 cents from a month ago
I went up to 32s from 28s and fucked up my gas mileage for a bit. Planning on doing a re-levelling and playing around with the transfer to regear and get those em pee gees back.
I also hear you on the transmission swap. Anything low enough for offroading and overdrive would probably be a 6+R which would be hideously expensive as whale. That ends up just defeating the porpoise of putting in an overdrive to save money, lol.
I also just realised it's a dodge and not a chevy so disregard my previous point, lol. You also could try turboing your engine... Just imagine people's faces when you're putting 91 in your old Dodge 150, lol
Ya but where.
2$/gallon here in sd