QTDDTOT / SQT

I assume you meant to reply to me >Clear then check/replace from spark plug to cluster
Alright, will do.

>invest in obd that connects to phone
A) Poor
B) I don't have a smartphone
C) Roommate has one
I simply figured since O' Reilly's was on the way home I'd stop by there to get it checked since it was free.

Sure, just don't be a faggot. I'll still think you're a faggot regardless.
Depends. Have you done it before? Do you know what you're doing? Is it built into the headers and you need to replace all that shit? If you live in the rustbelt, you're probably going to need to chop and torch some bolts before they'll come off. If you're not comfortable with that, fin someone who is.

This kiddo again.

Thank god for O'Reilys. They pulled the codes (took 3 adapters tho) from from 1994 Firebird.

Codes:
35 - Idle Air Control Problem can't set Idle RPM
46 - Passkey II Problem
75, 76, & 77 - EGR Solenoid Malfunction #1,2, & 3

Thoughts? Should I be worried? Is there anything that causes these issues to appear that I should check on?
Original SQT posts:
-Thanks user

I've never worked on a car before.

Yes. It will be difficult. Find a friend who's at least handy around that shit. Also do some research on how to do it on your car.

Forgot to mention. If your area gets snow and salted, any bolts on your exhaust ain't comin off without chopping off the head or heating the bolt red hot with a torch. You might get lucky with soaking them in PB blaster and wacking them hard with a hammer or mallet to break em loose, but I doubt it.

>KA24E
maybe you should use a DE instead so the timing chain doesn't explode
>getting 70 extra horses off a 130hp block from supercharging
idk i think you'd should go the turbo route, it would be easier
forums.nicoclub.com/dude-sweet-ka-supercharger-kit-t182929.html

nah they're jews who try to upsell you random shit with your obd info, get a handheld obdII scanner from amazon for like $20;
have you changed the spark plugs, dist. cap and rotor, and plug wires in the last three years?

Alright, so I just reset it and I let it run for a couple minutes and then took it for a quick drive. Code was gone and didn't come back. Thanks user.

Bought it used, I've had it for less than a year.

change 'em, it's usually less than $50
>poorfag
take out the plugs and soak them in gas, q tip them clean, soak again, let dry, if you have a gapper gap them, reinstall; take some sandpaper to the points in the distributor cap and clean them up, as well as the edge of the rotor; inspect the wires for any cracking or melting, they should also have a date code and you can probably let them go for 5-7 years.
>advanced: use sandpaper on sparkplug electrode until nice and flat, soak in gas, qtip clean, re-gap, reinstall

reposting from other thread:
I wanna buy coils for my civic, its a 98 and I know that the forked coils go right into the control arm but im curious what the other in pic related are for or how they would mount?

What would be a good dashcam? I have no idea what I'm looking for.
Some features that would be nice but not even sure if possible:
>multiple lenses, one facing forward the other facing back/to the side or adjustable
>ability to record while the car is off and left in a parking lot or something
>good enough pictures to see license plates/faces

Anything else I should know about dash cams?
Would it be possible to just use a GoPro as a dashcam?

I'm not sure I understand your question. They're eyelet mounts. they'd mount the same way as forked, it just depends on what your control arm accepts

Throbbing? Does it pulsate more when you brake? Check to see your rotor isn't sitting at an angle where only parts of the metal are touching the pads

Ah, thanks that's all I needed to know

I read that leasing is a good option for who likes to change car often. I don't plan that, but I'm terrified to buy a "bad" build car that will have a lot of problems afterward. Is it dumb to get the lease, see how the 4 years go and then if no breakdowns occurred finalize the buy?

>buy used SV650 with 11k miles
>pull the spark plugs
>electrodes are brown and dry
good
>black oil at the base of the threads
wat mean

Just inherited a 2013 Escape 2.0 ecoboost AWD

Was thinking of starting with this, is it good for the money, or snake oil?

knfilters.com/mobile/mProduct.aspx?prod=69-3537TS

>live in a very cold area
>left a water bottle in my car and it cracked open
>leaked water condensation got all over the windshield and keeps freezing

What would be the easiest way to get rid of this problem during the winter?

best way to get clean mold off a car seat?
best way to dry a wet car seat or carpet?

the difference is like
>renting a lemon
vs
>buying a lemon
you can sell the lemon you bought and recoup some of the cost, but if you rent a lemon you are not buying any of its equity and are basically paying for a service (car rental)
>this could work for you if you're rich

1) scrape all the frozen condensation fom inside window, remove from vehicle; repeat 2-5 times
2) get one of those silica gel tubs (like damprid) from dolla holla or a rental unit company or walmart

Check the valve cover gasket

Not snake oil, but it's god awful for the money. You could get one off eBay for a lot cheaper or make your own for dirt cheap

Rent one of those carpet steamers

pls

>rent a rug doctor carpet steamer to clean a vehicle
let's call this plan f since i don't need to clean the carpet, just dry it, and the seats are already out of the vehicle

>Change 'em
If I get the code again tomorrow, absolutely. Otherwise I'll put it down to a weird bug, probably somehow caused by me replacing a wheel bearing yesterday.

>Cleaning advice
Never heard of that. Pretty cool. I'll keep that in mind.

>implying windshields aren't already polarized
there's a reason they call it truckers tan and not drivers sunburn
>all the other questions
inapplicable b/c a shop is doing it, ask their opinion and what material they will use

What are the common metric sizes used on newer American cars? I mainly work on asian cars and I used to only ever needing JIS sizes: 8, 10, 12, 14, 17, and 19 for most things. I just did caliper rebuild on a 2011 Mustang GT and had to use 13 and 11. Any other sizes commonly used?

>cleaning spark plugs and reconditioning dizzy caps and rotor contacts
>because sometimes you just don't have that extra $50
>note: by making the electrodes shorter they will run hotter, so no hooning
>also cleaning your dizzy cap and rotor with sandpaper will improve transmission but reduce service life; electronic contact cleaner spray also works, but not as well
lost arts
listen to old timers, they know things

I helped jump a friend's car today. I've done this dozens of times before

My connection order:
>both cars off
>red/+ve from good battery
>red/+ve from dead battery
>black/-ve from good battery
>chassis ground in dead car
>turn my car on, charge for 5 min
>turn his car on

when my room mate went to connect negative from good battery to the chassis in his car there were sparks

no smoke, no heat, just some small amount of sparking

once the connection was made, sparks were gone

we went ahead and charged it and everything seemed fine: his car started up after my car charged up his battery, my car was okay too after

so what caused the sparks?

for there to be sparks it had to mean there was a decent potential difference between the ground of his car and my car right? there wasn't any arcing plasma just sparks. I don't knwo what kind of diff that requires or what the hell caused it really

It will spark if there's something drawing power. When I have my door open and connect the negative to the battery it sparks because of the door light and other things.

I have no idea what I'm doing here, what should I do?

damn okay
roomie totally had his car door open with the interior lights on

do you know what the reason is scientifically?

have faith in yourself aut/o/bot

>inapplicable b/c a shop is doing it
This is exactly why I'm asking. I need to find a shop based on the materials they use. Some only use Llumar, some 3M, etc. Easier to decide on the tint I want and find the shop based on that.

Also the appearance questions have nothing to do with a shop.

>giving a shit about what other people think
stop overthinking this, do what you want
also do you think that Umberto at the tint shop or some autists on Veeky Forums are going to have more relevant opinions?
>protip: it's the mexican't
get multiple quotes, prices vary by geography, 3M is good

buy a roush or a twingo

>buying a car?
*look at the damn sticky
>want comfy bantz?
>can't wrench, wat do?
*sticky, youtube, forums

The negative is basically the switch when everything is on. Nothing else stopping the current and with a car battery it's enough to jump when the connection is close.

A twingo.

>have faith

A1.

welcome twingo wielding newfriend

You're still completely missing the point...
I already know the tints that I listed are high quality. I DO NOT know how they look (i.e. flat black or reflective), hence asking people that may have more experience with tints than I do what they think.
If I go to a shop that only uses 3M, they're not going to tell me Llumar is probably closer to what I'm looking for.

Not to mention I could always order a roll myself and have it applied.

I had to jump my car off today. I drove it for over 30 minutes and when I tried to go home, I had to jump it off again. I took it to autozone and they said that both the alternator and battery went bad. I called my dad because 400 bucks is kinda rough to just drop out of the blue and he claims that it is incredibly rare for both the alternator and battery to go bad at the same time. My headlights haven't dimmed and all of my other electronics are working when I was driving. What are the odds of both my alternator and battery being bad?

cheap and easy way is to get some box fans art walmart or use the ones you already have and let them run all day, one blowing in, one sucking out, weather and/or garage dependent obviously
I'd also buy two of those silica gel buckets like pic related, they're $6 at lowes
A faster alternative to the silica gel packets are a cheap dehumidifier, runs about $20-30 at walmart
Personally i'd throw one box fan pointing in at the passenger side back door, and one in the driver side front door pointing outward, with dehumidifier running somewhere that the air isnt circulating very well.

alternator could be overcharging battery, killing battery
>incredibly rare
it happens

>7 hours, no replies
>bumps
>argues with the only replies he gets
>hurr more exp!
trust me if i was wrong some fgt waiting in the peanut gallery would tell you about it
>Protip: marketed as reflective? it is.

>well i'll order my own material!
do it fgt, shops love applying different materials

>Alternator bad
Shouldn't charge battery, vehicle won't run after battery is drained.

>Battery bad
Trouble/won't start, may not charge, irrelevant once vehicle is started (mostly).

Well shit, you tell me user. It's possible it's both, what I'd take a look at is making sure your battery terminals aren't shit. Then try a new battery. If that doesn't work, try a new alternator. SO
>Make sure it isn't shit battery terminals/connectors
>THEN get a new battery
>THEN get a new alternator

>put a dehumidifier in the vehicle
this is actually a great idea
thanks an/o/n

so to clean the seats:
>I took them out of the vehicle
>brushed off mold with toothbrush
>sprayed them with some hydrogen peroxide
>coated seats in baking soda
leaving outside overnight to get generally moist, going to let sun dry and then brush off baking soda; sounds good? would you add anything?

thats pretty much exactly what i would do.
In my experience mold hates a few things more than anything else
>Lack of Moisture
>Air circulation
>Heat
>The sun
Lack of moisture and air circulation are not optional.

>heat
so if you had a lack of heat (like me), would you:
*install seats wet and let dehumidifier run for 12 hrs in vehicle
OR
* leave seats drying in my house WITH dehumidifier after sun dry for 24-48 hrs?

Will normies make fun of me if I drive a 2004 Forester?

>2.5 L
probably not
>as fast as a volvo 850
this is a problem

same user as before
for 75-7 I'd replace the egr valve since those go bad after a while, and replace all (ALL) the vacuum tubing and stuff. the other components could be just fine
get the rubbery vacuum tube and not the hard stuff

46 i have no idea, google in forums

35 would make me think the IAC needs replaced

>replace all (ALL) the vacuum tubing
except that one really long tube that goes to some where not on the motot

TBI engines are very picky about vacuum, they don't have tolerance for leaks

1) ya agree
2) wtf idk; sympton of #1?
3) clean IAC first, use some carb cleaner

Is an Impreza WRX Wagon much cheaper to insure than a regular WRX Sedan/Coupe ?

PROBABLY SINCE WAGONS ARE FOR MOMS

What is the best BMW currently being produced and why is it the 435i xDrive Coupe?

Don't say that

I bought a 99 cobra as my first manual car. It has 178k miles, I was wondering how much longer it'd probably last? I'm saving up for a rebuild/swap but the suspension/bushings need work too.

>yfw can't into mom sportwagon
.t drives a turbobrick

I have a new car and it's got blind spot monitors. I was driving in the rain for the first time last night and my passenger side blind spot warning kept going off without a car being there. Happened on highway, freeway, and 2 lane back roads.
I'm guessing/hoping that because it only happened while it was raining that the 2 things re related and my blind spot system in a new car isn't borked already.
Is this normal?

Has anyone ever dealt with an old Mercedes diesel? Got one that misfires like a bitch my.mixtape.moe/mixdke.mp4

help me friends
>sprayed a panel with 2k clear
>had a tonne of dust and insects in it(sprayed in my garage but didnt put up fly traps and mozzie coils)
>wet sand it with 800, 1500, then 2000. started with 800 due to this xbox huge fly right in the clear.
>tried machine buffing with a heavy cutting compound, then polish.
>I cant seem to get the shine back into the clear coat
pic is for reference, wet bits are from water to get polish residue off.
any advice? this seems common problem and there is talk of "bridging" the various grades of sandpaper and compounds.
I cant have cut through the clear. I sprayed on two very heavy coats at 29 PSI.

>though I'd need a new cambelt
>turns out the car has a timing chain and doesn't need replacing

Wew lads saved 300 quid there

honestly both are fine, i'd rather leave the seats out personally

I'm planning on flushing my coolant because its brown and shitty and gross. I told my dad this, and he says I shouldn't because in doing so I could flush out stuff that might be blocking and places where coolant could leak out. I've never had any cooling issues, other than my car taking forever to get to operation temperature.

So basically, I'm asking if what my dad has to say has any validity at all. This coolant flush is the first major thing I'll have done to my car.

Pic related is how the coolant in the reservoir looks, but its not my picture

Did you go straight from the heavy cutting compound straight to polish? might need something intermediate first.

What is wrong with my transmission Veeky Forums?
Throwout bearing?
youtu.be/JKA0ZYQ5nRw

He isn't wrong but if you just drain and refill you'll be fine. Don't have a shop do a power flush, that's what fucks things up.

Yes it's probably the rain. Happens with my parking sensers in rain or snow.

Subi crossteck or jeep renegade for new dd?

Crossteck obviously. Or a 4runner.

You know Jeep is the least reliable brand sold in America for 20 years running right?

But the renegade is more fiat, and they do fine.

>20 years
>2017-20=1997
>Right before Daimler-Benz took over
>Those designs are from Chrysler fucking with AMC designs
Fucking Chrysler.

>But the renegade is more fiat, and they do fine.
eeeeeeeeehhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
youtube.com/watch?v=Df9vQd8fSLY

I thought the Z got wrecked in the film, lel.
carandclassic.co.uk/car/C636583

That explains why it looks like shit. If you insist on getting a jeep, get a damn JEEP otherwise you look like a "cool" mom.

>Fiat reliable

Should I a Peugeot 206? (with one of the 2L engines obviously)
How much space is there in one? Videos and pictures are often misleading but it looks to me like they're barely larger than a Ford Ka.
I don't really have the money to buy and keep a 207 or 208.
How's reliability on them?

This happened to my exhaust manifold. It was like this before purchase as I haven't fucked with it and I have only had this car for a month. Car is 19 years old, engine was replaced once. Is this something to worry about? Can I do anything about it? I guess it can't do much harm, it's just the exhaust, but I figured I'd just ask.

The manifold is going to warp, if it hasn't already, and it'll leak exhaust there. It probably won't do anything except sound like shit but there is the chance it'll get worse to the point of eroding the head.
The only thing you can do to fix it is pull it all apart, try to get the broken stud out, replace it, and mill the manifold flat again.

It's fixable but kind of a pain in the ass. I would probably just forget about it unless you have a turbo. I don't think anything bad can result from that other than possibly the engine being noisier when cold.

Thank you very much. It's not turbocharged and it's just a 1.3L, so I'm not too worried. I know two very handy people who might want to fix it for me though. I still have to drive this car for a while.

I would love a 4runner, but they are cost $10k more and get 20-30% less mpg.

Should acid in car batteries slosh around? I pulled out my battery to clean it cause it pissed everywhere and the acid was sloshing around inside

weld it

Yes you can hear it when you rock a battery back and forth. It should not be "pissing everywhere" though.

I think this is something we'd need a whole thread for. How about you go make one user?

...

>flushing could knock shit loose
Possible. However if your system is so fucked that getting rusty sludge out will break it, you need to replace that shit anyway. So do a flush, nothing crazy just let it drain out, and then refill. Let it run a bit after filling, check to see if there is a leak. Let it sit over night to see if it leaks over night. If you have no leaks, you should be fine. Otherwise, start replace shit.

denver.craigslist.org/cto/5959204979.html
What kind of scam is this? Why so cheap?