Anyone else playing with the thought of converting their car to electric?

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C'est la chaîne Francois Le Borgne

a friend of mine took one of these shits and made an e-conversion without actually knowing much about that. just basic electronics knowledge.

he used batteries from old laptop batteries he picked out and put together to a huge battery pack.
the motor was some kind of old motor he got from a washing machine or some shit, I can't remember exactly connected to the old transmission, because easy.

thing is, the panda had 30hp before and after the conversion that shit did burnouts like a mad cunt and pulled like a fucking monster.
don't know if he still has it.

Did he keep it FWD or was it rear mounted?

Sounds like it stayed FWD.

That's fucking nuts

The thought has crossed my mind. Not too long ago the company I work for threw away some perfectly good but out of date UPS's. I salvaged many of them and still have no use for them. I've toyed with the idea of an EV Miata, but couldn't bring myself to taking away the thing that makes it fun (light weight). I just find it hard to have fun in a heavy car, even if it has "hur durr shitloads of instant torque"
EEVblog twat had some videos on interesting conversions, they seem viable if the motor and battery are easy to come by. Otherwise, unless you're getting sponsors it isn't worth the cost.

30+ hp washing machine motor

only for a city car
also lithium cobalt and 400 volts worry me a bit more a normal petrol fire

electric motors are rated differently than car engines so it's entirely possible. While electric motors are rated in horsepower, they're rated at the most consistent output, not the highest peak power.
Also, with as much torque as they make at such a low rpm, they don't need as much power to pin you to the seat.
I've seen electric forklift motors make things pretty lively.

If you put a higher voltage on the motor, you will gain more power.
You can go crazy with that, untill the rpm gets to high and destroys the motor.

You can also increase the amps for a short time and gain more power as well.

I wouldn't do it on a mid-sized car but definitely would love to try it on a small hatch. Those cars weight next to nothing, especially if you take out all the ICE stuff and if you use laptop batteries and not heavy lead based ones. Also if you can shit on range, you also don't need to fill the whole floor with batteries.

The most awesome thing about the whole thing is that theoretically you could put the e-motor in the rear and directly connect it to the rear wheels over a diff. E-motors are way easier to fuck around with than doing that with ICE engines and all the crap that is connected to them.

You could also put a motor in the back AND in the front for extremely hectic shits.

...

it can produce some fucking monster machines
but the parts are still pretty expensive if you want legitimate performance or good driving range

that car looks nice as swift but trash as metro

I've toyed with the idea of a car driven by electric motors which are powered by a gas engine that drives one hell of an alternator. I'd want it just for that flat torque curve the electric motors have. Any motors big enough to be impressive are out of my price range though.

>untill the rpm gets to high and destroys the motor
Doesn't really work that way, it's more that the increasing voltage/amperage makes the motor short at a certain point.

>signal most retarded person
>signal most retarded
>signal most
>signal

It's also a matter of fucking HEAT.

People don't realize how hot those e-motors can get, even when not at the limit.
Those motors in the Tesla cars are also actively cooled.

depends if brushless dc or induction ac
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_constants

There's motors out there with the power and torque curves of a normal ICE, that are compact and weigh little. But they're about $20k each. And batteries are still shit for energy density compared to petrol.

It's the retard signal! To the retardmobile!

>spending several thousand bucks on ruining your car except you wont even look cool to stancefags
what's the purpose

>batteries are still shit for energy density
I have noticed that pure ev near half the weight of the car is battery's
and on top of that they still need water cooling loops for the battery's and voltage regulators

I've toyed with the idea of getting my uni to sponsor an electric vehicle on local SCCA stuff.

In terms of energy density, most gas is close to 25 times more energy per unit of mass. There's also the misconception that high output electric motors light enough to be put on a car are particularly efficient. They aren't too much more than a modern ice. Then there's also the issue of all the weight you're carrying, necessitating more power at all times. It's ultimately nonsense that preys on people's feelings and lack of analysis regarding the proposition. but let's not forget
>muh instant torque

When you just increase the volts, it works that way, if you increase the Amps as well it doesn´t.

Well, current three-phase brushless motors have about 92% efficiency, compared to about 30% for modern ICE. If only batteries had about 3-5 times more specific energy they would be comparable to gas guzzlers. For now, hybrids are the best option. Can't wait for lithium-air batteries, or graphene ultracapacitors.

The problem is there is a lot more to the efficiency chain in a BEV than in ICE car. Charging a battery is at most about 80% efficient and discharging the same and the motor controllers aren't any better than that so you are already at an efficacy chain of .8*.8*.8 or 51.2% before you get to the motor (ignoring all the losses in the grid before it gets to the car. High efficiency electric motors will manage about 91.7% at full load but that drops off below 75% load and rapidly below 50%.

I've considered converting my 4WD to hybrid, actually.

Adding a pair of, say, 10 HP motors to the front and rear driveshafts would straight away make it far more practical to drive, and I could use a combination of regenerative braking and a second (higher voltage?) alternator to recharge the batteries.

It's a heavy enough car already, so a dozen cheap lead acid or nicad batteries would give me all the charge I need for this, because I'll only need power from the electric motors when I'm taking off or trying to get up a big hill.

I've even thought about building some kind of thermoelectric converter that uses waste heat from the coolant and exhaust to generate electricity, dunno what kind of returns I'd be able to get on that.

Along with some solar panels, it'd be pretty nice to have a high capacity electric system for when I go camping, and I'd end up saving a lot of fuel and wear on my clutch/brakes, too.

if this is worth at least 10k to you, sure do it

>80%charging efficiency
On lead baetterys maybe, lithuim Ion batterys only have insigficant losses, their efficiency depends on the charging speed.
If you charge them insanely fast, they tend to go down to 95%, if you charge them slowly, they get close to 100%.

Controllers are ~95% efficiency as well under normal load, the motor usually gets 95-99% efficiency.

So you get a efficiency of about 86-90% from the battery.
If you add the losses in the charger, you still get 80%+ since DC-DC concerters are insanely efficient.

Go with a nickel or lithium battery, lead acid is heavy, inefficient and doesn´t last long.

How do you figure 10 grand?

I can get lead acid (and possibly other types of batteries) for cheap, a pair of ~10hp motors isn't exactly a lot of money, and all the fabrication shit is work I'm happy to do myself.

The real challenge for me would be controller and charging system.

Duly noted.

proti: visit your lokal aircraft mechanic and ask for used nickel starter batterys, the replace the early.
If they get replaced, there usually is 80% capacity left and the internal resitance is still pretty lof.

>The real challenge for me would be controller and charging system.
and integrating it all into your car in the first place.
for starters, where would you install the motors?

>controllers
kellycontroller.com/
>motors
forklift motors should be enough
>charger
I use a boost converter and a ATX PSU for my moped, depending on your voltage that should work for you as well.

One inline with each driveshaft - it'll require a pair of custom driveshafts and some appropriate mounts (along with protective housings), but it's doable.

I'll have to write this stuff down, cheers.

the city 55km away from me has a tesla charge station but no fucking way would i ever own a telsa
>depreciated after mere months
>Tesla build quality and interior are horrid
>Shit range
>no resale value
>meme
Battery tech still isnt good enough

How about a plug in hybrid with a electric range of 100-200km (about 100miles)?
Your DD route could be driven electric, longer distances on gas.

nah i dont really commute i just drive for fun.

Electric is for cityfags, everyone else literally cant use EV due to their shit range and poor coverage compared to petrol stations

I often think of what I'll do with my NB miats when the 1.8 finally gives up. So far I'm undecided between dorito swap or E-conversion

>I often think of what I'll do with my NB miats when the 1.8 finally gives up.
junkyards swap and or rebuild

what are you a pussy? EV conversions are the biggest memes

Electric would give you insane performance for about one hour, after that, you would rely on the small gas engine.
#
Why not both?
AWD 500 kw miata sounds like fun...

it would totally fuck the handling due to being so fucking heavy.

Hold off until battery tech is light and has good enough range

You won´t fuck up the ballance if you put hub motors on the front wheels, and the battery in the trunk.
Also the battery would be a small short ranged Li-Po with a weight of about 50kg...

TL;DR the cog wouldn´t change.

>huge ass antenna
>batteries

cute RC car

electric miata sounds like a cool idea

Couple it directly to the transmission. Or rear diff if its rear wheel drive