I've got a '93 Dakota that I want to put a built engine into. Why? Because I fuckin' can. However, I'm having a dilemma here. Should I build a 318 and just put 360 heads on it (after milling some of it to keep compression), or should I just build a 360 to begin with and throw it in there?
My goal here is to make as much power as possible on the cheapest budget possible. What are your thoughts? This is also going to be my first engine build.
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>make as much power as possible on the cheapest budget possible
>using a Chrysler engine
Pick one and only one.
build the 318.
>implying chrysler engines are not good engines
You get out, you whore
they are the best, but hes right. they are pricey
That's true, but I just wouldn't feel right with a SBC or SBF in my Dodge. So I've decided with either 318 or 360 Magnum
personally, I'd use a 360 block with a 318 crankshaft. Get a modernized 340 tribute engine going.
Why not? It's a fucking Dakota. Nobody cares.
Just go to Pull-A-Part, buy an LQ4 and call it a day.
Would that offer any benefits as opposed to a 318 with 360 heads? I'm new to engine building and I figure I'm probably going to learn quite a bit from my first build.
But I care. I was gonna go to Pick a part and pull either the 360 or 318 considering all of the yards near me have a fuck ton of Rams with the magnums.
Build some short-stroke high-rev monster, that'd be hilarious.
Although it'd probably not be the best choice for "most power on a budget".
Can someone explain why this works? Do they have the same stroke and smaller displacements? Which parts are and aren't interchangeable between the two blocks?
>Would that offer any benefits as opposed to a 318 with 360 heads?
A large cylinder bore and a small stroke is the main ingredient in making an engine that revs high. It's what Ford did with the 302. It's what Chevy did with the DZ302. Honda does it with their B-series and K-series engines.
The 318 and 360 are in the same engine family. You can use a 318 crankshaft in a 360 and vice versa. heads interchange too. Putting a 318 crank in a 360 block would give you around 339 cubic inches, close enough to call it a 340. high revving engines are a fucking blast to drive if they're set up properly.
If you decided to use a 360 crankshaft in a 318 block, it would work, but the end result would be something like Chevrolets hated 305.
The idea is known as de-stroking a motor. destroking it reduces rotational mass. This allows it to rev faster and rev to higher rpms.
The Chevrolet 302 used a 350 block and a 283 crankshaft. It was also well known for revving to 7k in street form and up to 8500 rpm in race form.
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I can't say I've ever driven a high revving engine. What makes them so fun? I'm considering doing this now.
The noise, the power delivery, the fact that it just pulls all the way to a 7-8k redline.
I watched the video that the other user linked, that does look like it would be pretty fuckin fun to have. What did you mean by having them set up properly?
The sound of 8 cylinders at 7k is sikkkkk
high revving engines make ALL their power up top.
My first car had a GM LQ1. It had decent low end power, but that thing would fucking PULL between 3500 and the redline.
Drive some high revving cars and you'll understand. It's most definitely the power delivery, but also the noise those fuckers make when screaming. It's addicting.
GM high output quad 4
Honda B18 with Vtec
Honda K20A2
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It needs enough air and fuel at such high revs, so basically you want the right cam, valves and carb I guess.
An engine set up for high revs usually has a power band that just keeps climbing all the way to redline, whereas a lot of low-revving torque-focused engines pretty much run out of steam at 6-6.5k and power either stagnates or even drops right down.
>the right cam, valves and carb I guess.
And heads and manifolds, obviously.
>What did you mean by having them set up properly?
You need the right cam, heads, and intake manifold. I can't stress those enough.
Well, now I want to build a high revving engine for my truck. My truck NEVER goes over 3k RPMs, it's kind of sad actually. How would I make it have decent low end power, while still being a high rev engine?
Relatively big bore so it still has a good amount of displacement (and with that, torque).
Also picking a cam that's a good balance between low-end torque and top-end power.
not a chrysler expert but the right combination of parts, especially the cam. Look for a split duration cam, this will help retain that down low power some while also picking up the top end. A single pattern cam will gain a lot of top uend but will lose a lot down low
As fun as they are, there IS a downside to building a high revving engine. It IS, generally, more expensive. Because things are rotating at much faster speed, your pars need to be much heavier duty, particularly the lifters, rockers, and valve springs.
You also need cylinder heads that flow a LOT of air, and you need an intake manifold with medium length runners (best compromise between low end torque and high end power). Said cylinder heads are usually on the more expensive side.
Intake manifold with long intake runners ar great for low RPM grunt. It's why 99% of pick up trucks use long runner intake manifolds.
High revvers love short runner intake manifolds because it gets the air in faster.
>why this works?
Same journal diameter and bore spacing
Wouldn't high rev engines wear out quicker even with more expensive parts?
I may be reaching a bit here, but the way I see it an engine built for high revs will wear out slower under normal driving due to the shorter stroke and resulting lower forces.
It'll probably wear faster at redline, but slower down low so unless you're constantly revving the piss out of it, longevity should be fine.
I heard the EFI is usually the roadblock on those dakotas
>My goal here is to make as much power as possible on the cheapest budget possible
Unless your dakota came with a 318 block, start with a 360. There's no point to nerfing the engine to begin with.
>Well, now I want to build a high revving engine for my truck. My truck NEVER goes over 3k RPMs...
Those are two VERY contradictory statements.
I would build a low-end-torque focused 360 if you're looking to break the wheels out and just being the biggest dog on the block. It will be more manageable on the road, have more practical use, and cost less to do that.
93' dodge d150 360 5.9 checking in