QTDDTOT / SQT

What's an easy way to read the codes on an obd1 1995 blazer

Bumpin

I got a Sony CDX-GT570UP head dash only (not the whole stereo)

What can I do with it, other than buying a the whole stereo.

Where do you all look for a shitty civic for a DD?

Dealers just seem to have newer ones for like ~10k

Is craigslist that dangerous?

I might've bought a frame swapped motorcycle, I'm noticing a few things that don't match the year of my bike (color scheme and brakes for starters), now I'm worried about getting it confiscated for possession of stolen property if the engine comes up as hot.

What should I do? Can the engine serial even get tracked to the original frame?

Can anyone help me locate Spark plugs on my carbureted car? I'd Like to change them, but IT doesn't seem as easy as on electric fuel pump carstva. 2E engine Toyota Corolla 1.3XL

is it possible for a car to be totaled without severe damage?

isnt total just mean cant run anymore, given that costs greater than its worth?

so if I shoot your engine block a lot, it doesnt have severe structural damage, but it cant function

Yes. My car was "totalled" in a literal fender bender simply because the repairs would have cost more than the car was valued at.

Definitely if it's older. Like other anons said, it's totalled when the cost of repairs is greater than the car's value. So if you're shopping on Craigslist and see a 2016 with a rebuilt or salvaged title, r u n. Just imagine that it could have suffered over $20k of damage. Meanwhile if it's a 91 Civic or something it could've been tapped in a parking lot.

the one I'm looking at is a 2012 Fusion
it's kind of a weird situation though, the dealership it was last serviced at told me that it was declared a total loss and auctioned but vinbro came up with a clean title in his report
I'm going to call them back later to get a full damage report, but I've test driven it and it seemed more or less fine

Are Kias offlimits for DD shitboxes? Or stick to civic/corolla?

I had to do this last week

> Acetylene/proplyene/propane torch method
Use a torch to heat the nut up, if the nut is glowing hot the layer of rust between the nut and bolt will break.

> Drill out method
Using a hardened drill bit: Cobalt steel: tungsten carbide, or Ti3N4 coated drill bit drill through the bolt and nut.

> Angle grinder
Get a woven fiber angle grinder wheel and hack the nut off, you will need to replace the stud after.

offer him 450.

If you are driving the bike casually, as long as the paint job and vin on the frame match the registration you shouldn't be harassed too much. The engine should be covered by bolted on panels so it would require a warrant for an officer to inspect the engine stamp number.

What's a goo brand of brake grease?

would you be wary of a 2011 Accord with 129k on it?
is that a safe buy for $8k?

Craiglist can be sketchy as hell but it's really gonna be the only good place to effectively find one for a decent price, you gotta make sure you look at it really well in person so you don't buy a shitbox.
>That being said I sold mine on there a while ago and it was fucking mint 4k mile oil changes and evrything all the way up to 200k but I got calls within a couple hrs so it's easy to miss good ones.

If buying old don't go kia but brand new aren't horrible

I live in a state that doesn't list the engine serial on the registration or title, and yeah its kinda half blocked by the frame almost impossible to check without tools.

I figure as much, its a 600 sportbike so I kinda expect some degree of harassment but I don't go out of my way to break the law either. I've heard anything from the engine serial being linked to the frame vin by:

>manufacturer when first made in Japan (almost impossible to retrieve info if so)
>as part of build sheet when imported into country to be entered in NICB (impossible to check publicly...but this is what scares me the most).
>dealer when bike is taken out of crate (could be possible)

Living in the midwest, first winter here. How often should/do you wash your car in winter?

*to keep the rust off the underbelly because of all the shit they put on the roads here.

At least every week if you give a shit. Buy a car wash pass and just take it there

When I floor it the rpms go up but the car freaks out and goes "fast-slow-fast-slow" until I let off the gas. Any ideas? Spark plugs are brand new(changed after the problem). The transmission fluid looks a little dark but that's all I can tell's wrong. Car is an automatic Corolla

I want to replace my old seats with new(er) ones for cheap, ideally from a salvage or junkyard. Do I need to buy seats from the same make/model? How do I determine if the seats will fit my Ford Edge? Recommendations? Any help is appreciated.

how often should a alternator be replaced? should change mine before it goes out on me? (09 honda accord sedan 4 banger) pretty sure it has the original one

Does it do when it's in neutral?
If so, see if you can't get a fuel pressure readout while it's doing it. If you see if spike up and down you may need to replace the fuel filter/pump.

how long ago was the last fuel filter change?

I'll see about it. Thanks.

other than Veeky Forums, what other car websites do you go to regularly?

How old is too old to buy a used transmission? The one in my 25 year old car just popped its output shaft seal at 175k miles and there's one with 120k miles for dirt cheap in my area. I've tried calling around for rebuilt or remanned transmissions but they're virtually non-existent. I'd really prefer not to put this similarly aged one in only to have it leak too.

I inherited a 2007 dodge caliber with around 200,000 miles on it. Most of them are highway

The CVT Transmission is starting to overheat on hot days, mostly when going up steep hills. I'm afraid it's going to die soon. I'm a poor student and I need this car to last as long as possible.

Should I flush the tranny fluid? I want to stop the overheating problem but I'm worried that i'll also flush away whatever is still holding that transmission together.

I'd consider getting a new transmission but the car has around $600 in fees so I doubt it's worth sinking much money into

Thank you for your time

What is the largest amount of time you would put off an oil change?
Vehicle only has 1k miles since last with synthetic.

Just follow the wires from the distributor.

Get a flush done, it can only help.

I've got an OZ 03 that's having an issue where the wheel jerks to the left with every rotation and steers to the left if I don't have my hands on it.

Went about changing the Tie Rod Ends, yet the issue still persists. What should I look into next?

I need a stick shift car. What's the best/most reliable used stick shift car?

What does Veeky Forums think of Ford Tauruses? Found a good deal on a 04 Taurus, and it rode and handled extremely well. It was babied by an older couple so it's in great shape, just wondering what kind of issues they have.

Comfy on the inside, ugly on the outside.
The Vulcan is a great engine, but I don't know that much about the Duratec.
Issues: The fuel pump inertia switch can be finicky at times, and the AX4S transmission is known for having a weak parking pawl. Apparently the AX4N doesn't have that problem?
ford-taurus.org/taurusinfo/Features/AX4S.php

How to figure out which transmission it has:
ford-taurus.org/taurusinfo/Engine/Trans.php#axode

Car seems to be wandering around road. I thought it was the wind pushing me, but now do t think so. Also goes left under braking.

Where do I start?

Also hit a bad pothole when I was almost home. Anything I should check?

Tie rods, steering box bushings, steering box mounts.
Control arms, control arm bushings, ball joints.

Basically just jack up the front end of the car, visually inspect everything and give everything a shake. If the car has a steering wheel lock, lock it up and try to turn the wheels side to side. If something moves, you can usually see where it's moving.

I'm stuck in a parking lot. My car won't stay on. Was able to get it started before by holding the ignition down but now I can't get it to start at all. Turns over and then turns off.

What do

Are racing schools like Bondurant a meme and waste of money?

Dumb question: What would you rather use to make 600 hp on occasion, a remappable turbocharged Buick V6 or a naturally aspirated Pontiac V8 with an optional nitrous shot?

Is there any way to get a ballpark figure on insurance for a car without giving my name, address, social, mother's maiden name and kindergarten teacher's middle name to some insurance company? I'm not even sure if I want to buy the car yet

>anything i don't like is a meme

grow a brain and stop letting Veeky Forums think for you

also no, they're not, but some are better than others

is it possible to adjust a halogen projector to work with an HID bulb?

What is the black hose that goes into the engine right above the spark plug here? It looked like it was loose and coming off so i kind of shook it a little and it came right off. I stuck it back on but is it safe to drive?

thats your PCV hose, basically an emissions/breather thing. it wont destroy the car if it's left off but it might run weird. best to get it sorted

Thanks. So this might be why the engine sounds different and has started to feel like it is misfiring with a rough idle?

So it is not the hose that is lose it is the valve like the top half is broken off from the bottom it seems... Can I replace this myself? Where to buy a PCV valve?

The same same place you buy all car parts. The auto parts store. AutoZone, Napa, online like rock auto if you want it cheap. Dealer if you want a really good one. Summit racing if you want blue and red fittings

Also make sure the bottom half doesn't fall into you valve cover gasket

>obviously a nut and bolt combo

Just cut the bitch and replace it for under a dollar.

If you're unable to do the work yourself it'll be at least 900 or more for a shop to do it.

You may get away with driving it only 5-10 miles a day, or may quit working completely tomorrow.

CRC

Swap the tires from one side to the other. If it pulls right, there's your problem. If nothing changes, you're fucked.

Most aftermarket seats have to have fabrication done to make them fit, however Ford may have seats from other models that will fit from similar years, buy you'll have to do some research first.

Thanks. This is what i am dealing with. So I can easily go buy a new PCV valve and replace this myself?

Got a replacement.
I tried getting the valve out but it is very brittle and is breaking apart, pic related. What tool or method can i use to remove it? What happens if as you said it drops into the valve cover gasket?

Try prying the rubber grommet out that it sits in. If it falls in the cover it's no big deal. You'll just have to take the cover off and remove the piece. If you do get to that point would be a great idea to replace the cover gasket as well. Should be about a twenty minute job depending on the car.

Though looking at the picture is obviously a Honda, so yeah, 20 minutes easy.

Or maybe a Ford, based on the first picture. I'm a dumb.

It is a 97 Ford Probe. I tried getting the grommet off but it was not budging at all. I need to leave my work, called a taxi, hopefully i can get this sorted out tomorrow. Thing is if it does break and falls in there it will probably be many small pieces that will fall in with it which worries me. You are saying take off that huge cover? I don't work with cars that seems like a bit too much for me to handle.

Did you try pb blaster? The valve cover's not too hard to get off but yeah try not to break the pcv. Get your engine nice and warm too, it'll cause your engine to expand some so it'll be a bit easier

If you can unscrew a bottle cap you can change a 4 cylinder valve cover. Even if the pieces are tiny it will be fine. There isn't really anywhere for them to go. They'll just be sitting right under the cover. Pic related is what's under there.

I wont mess up the gasket taking it off or anything? It is a 6 cylinder. Sorry don't know much about engines.

The gasket is so old it's hard and stuck to the engine so it'll just stay in place. You should go ahead and replace it if you get under there though. They go for like $20

Realistically, you should just go ahead and pull the valve cover and push the pcv out. It's the safest bet. And get a new grommet too, it's obviously old and hard. You're looking at a massive total of $30 and an hour of your time (if you're really careful and methodic). Or just leave the pcv as is, and plug the hose with a screw, it isn't important anyway.

How can a center differential achieve a torque split that's not 50:50 (like BMW 64:36 or Subaru's 60:40) if it's not a viscous unit? I've read that they use gear ratios to drive the rears faster than the fronts to get more torque at the rear, but wouldn't this make either your tires slip or the center differential clutch plates cook? I just don't see how the rears can be driven faster without massive wear. Other sources I've read have said that the torque split is equal until tires break free, then the system is capable of UP TO 64:36 or whatever ratio it's supposed to be.

18, tired of being a busrider

Is this site enough to pass?

driving-tests.org/california/

According to a check up I had done at the local shop, my Cavalier needs a brake pad and caliper replacement sometime soon. They're asking $400 (canadian) for it. I'm generally new to car maintenance, but would it be an awful idea to spend that money on my own gear and parts and do it myself? It doesn't look too hard to do, but I'm worried about fucking something up.

Would this be the meme-iest Veeky Forums car of all time?

>Renault Twingo
>LS1 engine
>Hachiroku paintjob
>carbon fiber hood
>Black Ice little tree
>'Powered by Super Eurobeat' and 'WAT Racing' stickers

How can this car be even meme-ier? And real talk, I'm sure this would make this car have terrible weight distribution, the LS1 could warp the frame, and overall be a difficult to drive car.