Hey Veeky Forums

>$100 5.0 foxbody

FUUGGG IM JELLY

Seems like a nice project user have fun

It had been sitting under an older gents open air car port for the last 10 years. Hasn't been started in that time, the frontal pic has the last inspection sticker. He was in his 60s

I mean your first goal is to make it run at all. Then you can move on to see what's making it run worse than it should be. First thing I'd assume is, plugs, wires, belts, battery, and maybe fuel filter. Along with the usual fluids. Shouldn't be too expensive.

Just because an alternator has surface rust doesn't mean it won't work just fine.

After that just figure out what's not working like it should and slowly fix it. Engines really aren't that complicated. It needs three things; air, fuel, and spark. If it's not working then you're missing at least one of the three.

is it autogagic or manuel?

My brother and I split that cost as well. It's gonna be a project with the both of us. I just went and put out close to $150 in tools per suggestion of another user.

As it stands now, I know about cars but know next to nothing about how to fix them. All I know is how to do brakes, tires and to change oil.

It's a manual of course lol. I honestly wouldn't have gotten it otherwise.

smart man.

>would of passed up a $100 5.0 even if it was autogagic
>$100

Wewlad

thought so.

i'd still follow what i said earlier: definitely replace all the liquids.

Pull the fender well liners to check for strut tower rust and take an air compressor and blow out all the rain channels change the oil do a tune up and it will most likely start right up after that all fluids and soft lines then fiveohinfo.com/performance/top10modifications.html

When my uncle told me about it I don't think that it being an auto would've grabbed me the same way.

youtu.be/1BiFpSkMbNQ

Should be a good basic starting point

$100 5.0
COME ON user

was this from Illinois ?
i saw one on the side of the road just like this and it said $300 or $400 on the windshield. was also a manual 5.0

I'm in Richmond va. It was about 10 mins from where I live and I had it towed to my house. I have an old kitchen table an old folding table and whatnot to do my work with. Hopefully I won't have to but I also have an engine hoist in case I need to learn how to pluck an engine lol.

Lol ok man I get it. It's a deal that's probly too good for anyone to pass up.

This is informative I really appreciate it. It's bone stock with 140k on the odometer so I also want to start thinking about builds if I'm going to be replacing any parts. Anyone have any ideas

Bump

Need to get rid of this fire hazard on the hood that's hanging down. No idea why there's some sort of cloth on a hood anyway.

V8 for $100? Can't beat that. I don't know why people still go crazy over the miata meme. LOL

Miata has a rice tax, weak 4 cylinder engine, and doesn't even have a LSD. Not to mention a weak flexy frame due to convertible.

It's just insulation. Generally wool/fiberglass.

Older cars used asbestos, be careful!

It was either I take it off his hands or the guy was gonna send it to the scrap yard. He's a good friend of my uncles and told me that he had just moved on from driving it as he got older.

In my opinion the fox is infinitely better than the Miata because it can be built to fill any role. Whether it's a drag strip monster, drift beast, or anything else.

Pls no cancerino

a Miata can do all of that as well

and it wont look ugly as hell doing it

incomparable

SEE IF THE MOTOR WILL TURN THROUGH A BATTERY IN AND TURN THE KEY!

There are only 4 things needed to make an engine run: air, fuel, compression, spark.

Put a breaker bar on the crank bolt and turn the engine over by hand. That will make sure the engine isn't seized.

Before you go to crank it up for the first time, pull the dizzy and spin the oil pump with an electric drill. There are instructions on the Net and YouTube videos on how to do this.

This will ensure that the oil pump is actually working, and it will lubricate the engine before anything is actually moving around. It will prevent LOTS of unnecessary wear on already old as fuck parts.

Once you verify you have oil pressure, put the dizzy back in and fire that puppy up.

If it won't hit, make sure you have fuel pressure, make sure you have spark.

If if fires up, but sounds rough, you'll want to ensure that all of the injectors are firing, plus you'll want to do a compression test to rule out bad rings or a burnt valve.

Also throw.
I hate using mobile apps

I'm sorry, what exactly is a dizzy?

distrubitor

Important info.

youtube.com/watch?v=a1yo0K4xIHA

Ok lol back on track now. I'll add those things to the list of things to look up how to do. I'm willfully going in blind

Those are totally fine.

t. a mechanic

First impressions after getting it towed to my home today, but it's good to know that it shouldn't be a problem. I can push that down the list

Fuck that. As long as it makes good contact with the battery terminals (it will since it's just a fucking piece of metal) you don't have to do that

The internets should have decent guides on resurrecting barn finds.

Mainly:

Oil/Filter Change
Sparkplugs (you can reuse wires for now)
Brake pads/Rotors/Brake fluid flush
Transmission oil
Rear Differential oil
Flush Coolent system
Replace Thermostat (more than likely seized)

And as others have posted, after you change the engine oil/filter, do the oil pump priming procedure before starting. This avoids the engine starting up dry since it has been sitting for such a long time (all the engine oil has drained to the pan).

Before you pull the distributor learn what top dead center is, and how to set it before pulling the distributor out, not the end of the world if it moves, but you have to have the engine and the distributor both set to TDC (top dead center) before starting the engine. Runs like shit if its off.

Learn to love something called PB Blaster, rusty bolts are the devil and a snapped bolt is 100x worse. Use penetrating oil (PB Blaster) on any suspect bolts before applying elbow grease.

Good luck OP, much respect for diving into a project with little automotive knowledge. Take it slow, don't rush the work. When you rush, shit breaks, when shit breaks, you work more.

Even better than PB Blaster is homemade penetrating fluid. It's simply a 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone put into a squirt bottle. Once you use that, you'll never buy anything else.

you're forgetting compression ya nerd

Leave that insulation in place or the engine won't warm adequately.

It's hanging though, isn't that a hazard?

Well I mean it will make you look like a faggot though. But back on track; OP just focus on getting it started first. From there it'll be easier to determine what may need to be replaced. Take it one step at a time and one day at a time and you got this.

I also have a Ford from this period and it has the insulation

it drooped down on the engine once after hard driving and kinda burnt itself on the valve cover but nothing ever happened past that

so will a Foxbody tbqh

worst Mustang

Yes it will. I have a fox body with a fiber glass cowl with no insulation. A fucking 302 doesn't need that shitty insulation to warm up properly lol.

>so will a Foxbody tbqh

>worst Mustang

The fact that you refer to it as a fox body and not a 3rd generation mustang shows how beloved it was. Nobody calls a Miata by it's platform. It's a Miata, they're all Miatas. Sure, they may refer to the chassis code or generation to differentiate it, but nobody looks at you weird when you call it a Miata. There are mustangs, and there are fox bodies.

no user its called an easy way to tell which generation of Mustang youre talking about

plenty of people use NA NB NC and ND in reference to Miatas

>There are mustangs, and there are fox bodies.

yeah I think most try to differentiate the 2 since Foxbodies are kind of a disgrace to the Mustang name

even then its still a Mustang

I guess people dont call any of them SN-95s S197s S550s or New Edges either

fuck, That's a good deal!

Did you at least give the guy some hand manipulation for the great deal?

>Foxbodies are kind of a disgrace to the Mustang name
You're trying too hard. You do realize the SN-95s are fox bodies too, right? That the fox platform is 79 to 2004. Again, nobody says NA/NB and everyone knows miata. Say fox body and everyone knows exactly what you're talking about.

Why am I arguing with you, you're an Veeky Forums shitposter who wasn't even alive when they ended production.

>miata posters

its not trying too hard at all

1. Foxbodies dont even look like Mustangs they look like european shitboxes nobody except people who value performance (not that Foxbodies are even good for it) over any kind of taste like them
2. Fox platform =/= Foxbody you tard
3. yeah everyone says "NA Miata" or "NB Miata" get out of your trailer park
4. probably because youre an overly defensive fangirl and cant deal with differing opinions like a faggot "liberal" millennial or something

> Foxbodies dont even look like Mustangs
Which is great, because they have that classic 80's shit box look. Other people have different taste and opinions from you. Like you said:
> youre an overly defensive fangirl and cant deal with differing opinions like a faggot "liberal" millennial or something

>Fox platform =/= Foxbody you tard
Actually yes, that's were the name comes from. It's actually the same car with different paneling up until 1999. Even then the differences are small. You call it the worse mustang then claim the same thing in a slightly different package is better. You're ignorant friendo.

>yeah everyone says "NA Miata" or "NB Miata" get out of your trailer park
But nobody has to say fox body mustang. Just fox body.

>like a faggot "liberal" millennial or something
>Miata owners calling anything gay

Did some guy name Chad that drove a fox body make fun of you?

like I also said
>nobody except people who value performance (not that Foxbodies are even good for it) over any kind of taste like them

>Actually yes
call this a foxbody and see how many people call you retarded

>But nobody has to say fox body mustang. Just fox body.

youre contradicting yourself if its a fox platform its a foxbody so what is it

if I say Foxbody its automatically a Mustang but there are a whole slew of other Foxbodies

you make no sense

>Miata owner

in the original post you replied to I even said I had a Ford

just lmao

>Did some guy name Chad that drove a fox body make fun of you?

Chad wouldnt willingly drive a Foxbody way too old and ugly no girl likes them either

After youve done a couple things clean the exterior and interior up. It will give you a feeling of " this is really coming along nicely"

lmr.com/1979-93-Mustang?mkwid=syHWvxRbz_dc&pcrid=170675872789&pkw=late-model restoration&pmt=e&sl_id=A0KjtjqD&gclid=CLD68ZvU6tECFUm1wAodf7sKnQ

Welcome to your new best friend

Every so often I plan on making threads to show updates in progress. MAYBE a YouTube channel?

Foxstang is best stang. I prefer turd gens but $100 for a fox is frigging great.

I appreciate the encouragement I plan on seeing it through. You mentioned that there should be a few places to find restoration guides, have any ideas where I could find one, maybe a link?

I have never seen a restoration guide. I've just seen pics of people as they restored it. I don't think there is a defacto guide. You just need to go through the motions of replacing things an engine that's sat for a while would need serviced like he mentioned.

Once you get it to start, rebuild the rear drums and replace the front rotors with the kit that LMR has. It'll include new pads, rotors, wheel bearings, and all the other little parts you need. Their drum rebuild kit is good too.

I thought just as much. I was optimistic by asking. oh well, Its not like this is mine or my brothers dd so we've got nothing but time to get it done right.

Start looking into POR 15 or Eastwood rust products too. Eastwood makes a great product that you can use to coat the inside of a frame with. Get the lower strut tower under control fast.

Where at in Illinois? Looking for a donor motor for my truck and I'm boutta kill myself cause every car I've seen is either fucked beyond my own repair or too much for a donor

autism

You'll want to pick up both a Chilton's and a Hayne's manual for your car.

Indispensable.

I think what he's saying is that there's no Miata that has the particular cult following of the Fox.

I'd say the NA has a pretty big cult following, none of the others seem to though

miata faggots always find a way to ruin a good thread

>ruining threads
>posts frog

t. NA driver

i see a DIY port and polished GT40 topend in your future user

make it happen

I had a foxbody, pic related is what it looks like now after a 2015 lifted F-150 backed into it.

OP, I suggest swapping your speed density foxbody over to Mass Airflow.
The parts are not expensive, the hardest part is finding a computer. Very easy to do.

I have a nice fat radiator in the car, and the 9 bladed clutch fan. I suggest going dual radiator and getting a thermostat that's housed on your intake to detect when to come on by coolant temperature.
Pretty easy to do.

I don't suggest 5 lugging your car unless you're going to a newer mustang spindle and suspension geometry, because it's easier to find rims and parts for 4 lug foxbodies.

Mass Airflow is necessary for doing things like regulation deletes and any modifications you want to do.
I would NOT suggest modding your vehicle in its current state, speed density HATES any changes to its airflow. It will run rich and you will have a shit load of afterfires.

Getting a fat radiator and dual electronic fans***

What my engine bay looked like before the still unresolved wreck happened.

What the mass airflow swap looks like with the American Muscle bought black CAI.
Suggest doing this OP.

I don't think it's even worth getting the heads and paying a shop to port them. Seems like just dropping the 1.5k on modern heads produces better results. I know Late Model Restoration assembled an entire top end kit for under 2k that includes heads, intake, and cam, and all the parts you need to go alone with them.

ausfag here fuck i hate the 5.0

its slow as shit in aussie cars. in the 90's and 00's

It's a very slow engine today. It was absolutely ancient by the time it was put in facelifted mustangs. Shit started production in 1969 so it has lot of issues due to dated tech, mostly dealing with air in and out of the engine. Aftermarket has pretty much addressed those. Head swap, cam, and headers can easily net you an increase of 100+ whp.

Gt40s aren't bad for a factory head tbqh fampai

>Aftermarket has pretty much addressed those. Head swap, cam, and headers can easily net you an increase of 100+ whp.
yikes thats horrid.

just did intake and exhaust on my LS1 i got 100rwhp+

Cam and heads looking at least 400rwhp

lel
>can confirm this sadly

no its not fast but its not bad and its a good place to learn to wrench. I remember my friend with a 2013 Audi A4 (base 2.0t?) talking shit about my pos at the time. Thing only fired on 6 or 7 cylinders cause of a niggerd mods by previous owner fouling plugs. Still walked right past him. Felt nice

youre right theyre horrible

they flow worse than smogger sbc heads on both sides

5.0 is garbage without forced induction or nitrous how its been forever

stock block 302 can barely handle 400whp

aussie here again

Is Ford reliability a meme there too?

Easily the worst cars ive ever owned, low points seem to be from 1990-current on US, German and Aussie cars at least.

>stock block 302 can barely handle 400whp
yeah i remember anons on here said they crack and i looked it up its nasty.

Stock LS's can hold upward of 600n/a and 1200hp+ with head work its nuts

thats kinda right for the US too

but I think the general era is more mid late 90s with a big low point in the mid 2000s

yeah 1996-2006 was fucking aweful here in aus then they suddenly got better on the GM and Ford fronts until they got shitcanned in 2015 and 2016+1

1999-2002 commodores where okay but the Equivalent AU Falcon was FUCK aweful

Sorta. The car never left me stranded, but did give me headaches every now and then. The biggest hurdle with these cars are the fact that they are anywhere from 24-38 years old now. That means decades of shadetree mechanic work and being thrashed on. All that considered, I would say it was actually reliable.

only time i got stuck with my old falcon was when the headlights hi-lo relay blew

>unresolved wreck
You're fucked unless you have video or witnesses. But you might squeeze $1,000- out of a part-out.

why do yanks junk cars so quickly? Thats easily repairable

Or just spend the ~$200 at the Pick n Pull to get the replacement parts.

Yeah the LS1 is a much more advanced engine. Pretty retarded to compare something from the 70's that had EFI nigger rigged on it to the LS series.

Yeah dude, I basically put one of their faggot children through college.

$200 for an entire explorer engine at a scrap yard
$0 for DIY port and polish

versus

$2000

on a $100 learning project car

K