LED vs. HID....which is better?
Lights
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For what application?
I drive a Jeep and go off road a lot
LED, definitely
Takes a beating way better, doesn't have bulbs that burn out unless its chinkshit-quality, more light per watt, less heat, easier to hook up
Negative stuff is that due to lack of heat it can ice up if you're driving in snow
What're you buying, lights or doing kits into the original lamps?
Was looking at just the lights
LED is still better
Even so, you get much more/better light from something like a LED-bar
Thanks...the bar is coming not too long after
Make sure you get a proper conversion kit tho, with bulb coolers and all. Dont get the cheapest of the cheap
at the current price, HID
there are brotruckers who drive around with their LED light bars on in my town, so I'd assume they help you see really well.
Oh wait, that one just says screens...
>livescience.com
>prolonged, continuous exposure to this light - from computer monitors, mobile phones and television screens or indoor and outdoor lights - may be enough to damage retinas, she said.
JUST...
Depends on the application and lense.
Some factory stock lenses don't diffuse properly with some Led replacement bulbs.
>praising LED
>tons already burned out
While this thread is alive,
Anyone got a fav LED conversion for 9006 style bulbs? Looking to upgrade soon and there's sooooo much chinkshit to wade through
LEDS
E
D
S
BIG WIDE THICC LIGHTBAR KGO
The one that isn't installed on the lifted Jeep behind me, flooding my interior with light and blinding me
I have 9006 leds with the heatsink attached to the light.. dunno where they're made they are just too freaking bright. And the bulbs are in such a way that I cannot set my headlights like normal so they're pointing right at other drivers. Went back to halogens
That's what happens when you skimp out and don't get Rigids.
>doesn't have bulbs that burn out unless its chinkshit-quality
But your lightbar already has so many LED all burned out already. How many hours have you turned on the LED lights?
>doesn't have bulbs that burn out unless its chinkshit-quality
3 month old bar, $110 total with shipping and 25% tax. Shit tier
Funny you should mention that. Look what I just finished mounting & wiring
#
#
I probably should have added "like the one I currently have" after chinkshit quality
They were probably eBay, but I hated the HIDs that came with my car. They were also in the stock reflector housings so they weren't up to their full potential. Eventually got projector housings and LEDs and love them.
>LED vs. HID....which is better?
LED headlight bulbs are not one single light source unlike HID or halogens. If you look closely, you see a bunch of separate LED lights mounted on a stem. So that LED headlight may dim a little after a few months of night time use just like or as some of the individual LED lights burn out.
That's what happens with cheap LED that didn't get a burn in test.
>3 month old bar, $110 total with shipping and 25% tax. Shit tier
Wouldn't your cheapie bar actually be cheaper than Rigids (especially if a few in Rigids burn out too) if you bought two cheapier bars? Then as the individual LEDs burned out, you'd unsolder them from the spare bar and replace them? I'm assuming the individual LEDs are in their housings, so it is their housings you unsolder and resolder instead of those delicate LED chips.
LEDs are great and can compare to OEM HIDs if they're stock from factory.
And by that I mean they need a proper glass prism projector to actually have the same range.
i just bought top of the line halogen bulbs for my car, i'm sure the oem hid housings+bulbs are expensive as fuck
this is such fucking horseshit
the amount of light we are exposed to on a sunny day is magnitudes higher than anything we see on a screen
fuck this article
It would be cheaper, but the Rigid has much better lighting and a five year warranty
Looking forward to the drive home now. 75km in pure darkness... hope it aint foggy as fuck
It's not the light but the amount of UV. The screen is also close to the face and is emitting the light. Outdoors, you are seeing reflected light and that is quite different because the UV was absorbed by the objects (unless it was snow).
Rigid is so expencive
I've had a chinkshit light bar I bought for 50 bucks for over a year and all the leds still work. Anyone who buys a rigid is a chump.
led niqqa
Is that just an array of 10mm LEDs?
Enjoy your 200 lumens.
>especially if a few in Rigids burn out too
That never happens.
Light bars.
Lord have mercy
>LED vs. HID
Mercury vapor Fluorescent is where it's at.
I'll just buy two and still have spent less.
You can buy fucking 30 light bars for the cost of a Rigid.
I'm not even joking right now.
Oops, they got cheaper since I last looked. 36, you can get 36 light bars.
The ones that aren't aligned to blind oncoming traffic and the interior of the car in front of you. Get your eyes tested first you stupid cuntbags
Rigtards will still try to justify their purchases
can second this. inb4 pollusions
Might've just been something they salvaged from Fisher Price toys, given the quality
SUCK MY 50" RIGID
I have the Rigid Radiance 50", which is a lot cheaper than their "tradtional" products like the SR/SR-2 series and the E/E2-series. You really dont need those tho if you can fit a Radiance 50", which is fucking plenty
>400 dollars
Shush, when you drive as much in the dark as I do its worth every dollar
And it was more like $740 due to norwegian prices & tax
How do you stop people from stealing your Rigid 50-incher when you drive to a store or mall parking lot? They don't make anti-thief condoms that big.
they have guns in Norway
>they have guns in Norway
They have guns in the USA too but that doesn't stop the thieves. And you use a gun then you end up "guilty" for shooting.
Dunno about him but I just welded the bolts once I got it adjusted right.
Just takes a grinder to get it off, but ain't no nigger got time for that
everyone deserved that, follow the rules of the road
Whatever is stock.
Eh, I'm not worried; stuff like that doesn't really happen where I live
What did the truck do to deserve that?
they fucking suck unless theyre factory self leveling adaptive units
>traveling down country road
>no reflective center line
>thick fog
>this monster comes from behind a hill with highbeams and all light bars on
what do
Pass onto the other side and stop
...
some defensive driving, im sure he and the brotruck were thumbs uping each other. ease of the gas and create a gap
An LEDfag who runs a flashlight/LED parts site called mtnelectronics is now making his own light bars that RAPE Rigid's overpriced crap.
Rigid E2
50 inch
24000 lumens
$1800
MTN 12
12 inch
27500 lumens
$465
Literally a quarter the cost, and a quarter the size for the same brightness.
mtnlitebar.com
Benz doesn't live in nignogville so he's gonna be fine
>implying lumens alone give you range
And how the fuck did I imply that you fucking moron?
Could you project your own narrative any harder?
Who the fuck uses LEDs for range anyway?
If you want range get HIDs.
Alright. You buy that one, send it to me and I'll run a detailed comparison on it vs. my 50" Rigid Radiance
I'm seeing some additional weird stuff.
Calculating the watt vs bulbs he is running 13.5w bulbs. These can get quite hot and it would not be a good idea to put them in such small housings/reflectors.
No breather/pressure valve.
1 year warranty
Honestly, if this guy made 13 inch bars that beat E2-50s he'd get a job as top designer over at Rigid or Lazer
LED is solid state. Not prone to failure like HID or halogen for that matter.
HIR are better than either LED or HID.
Never heard of them? Look into them. It's what they use on heavy equipment like bulldozers and shit that still needs to be productive during the nighttime.
Give these guys a call. They make custom wiring harnesses for you car and can give you some great suggestions about what to run to modernize your lighting system.
This guy: danielsternlighting.com
I have a 1988 Mercury Grand Marquis Colony Park and I got a new harness and new hella H4 housings. I cannot believe what a difference it makes to have a modernized lighting system, and that is still with the stock bulbs the housings came with. And the harness was completely plug and play with good wire and ceramic plugs.
HIR is shit compared to LED. And you can barely get real HIRs anymore. Just Phillips junk branded as HIR.
The guy isn't really doing rocket science here.
I would assume he's just taking apart a light bar and soldering on high power leds for a flashlight or something, as well as upping the driver circuit.
Yeah, there's a bit of heat there, but when you look at the cooling for a 3 led flashlight, light bars have way more dissipation, despite having 6 times the LEDs.
It is a 5 year warranty, but past the 1st year, buyer pays shipping and labor.
>flashlight/LED parts site called mtnelectronics
Thank you for letting us know about such a site. I had no idea there was such variety and better pricing. Because it is a USA hobbyist that started reselling the high quality parts as well as machining his own flashlight parts, the quality is high and the risk is gone.
Before, buying parts from aliexpress could result in low quality parts, but since mtnelectronics checks the parts and doesn't buy from trash sellers, they have basically "vetted" the parts for me. And that's what I want. Some sort of known floor to the minimum quality level.
Mtnelectronics also sells empty flashlight casings into which customers can pick and choose LED, drivers, and parts. That's because a lot of parts are manufactured to fit in various standardized flashlight cylinder sizes. In some cases, some sanding of the edges of the PC board with the driver electronics is needed. But people have been able to make extra bright "sleeper" flashlights.
www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=66&product_id=583
>Honestly, if this guy made 13 inch bars that beat E2-50s he'd get a job as top designer over at Rigid or Lazer
Maybe if Rigid were interested in making the best lights possible, but they're not, they're interested in making the most profitable lights possible, by using huge arrays of cheap shit LEDs.
Rigid's 50" lightbar uses 108 LEDs to get 24000 lumens.
That's only 222 lumens per LED. That's what $5 eBay Chinese flashlights put out.
The MTN bar is 1145 lumens per LED, which is what you actually get from high end LEDs driven at high current.
And when I say "high end LEDs", it's a Nichia 219c.
What do Rigid use? They don't tell you, because they just use cheap Chinese shit.
I don't want to shill for MTN, because the guy comes across as a bit of a dick on BudgetLightForum, but the product he's selling is infinitely better than Rigid. Rigid is all marketing, MTN is proper quality autistic LED/flashlight nerd shit.
... do I smell advertisement?
...
...
First post is me.
Second post admittedly sounds shill as fuck.
>not sure if it was sarcastic, an aspy, or a shill.
Halogen VS LED
Halogen:
>brighter hotspot resulting in longer distance lighting
>sharp cutoff allowing distance lighting without blinding traffic
LED:
>reduced light throw due to dim hotspot
>brighter foreground causes eyes to adjust and everything to appear darker
>lack of cutoff throws light into eyes of anyone in front of vehicle
Sealed beams.
Top to bottom:
Halogen
Morimoto 2 stroke LED
HID
HID bb
>LED advertisement proves itself false
This whole thread screams shills.
>driving at night with low beams
>car coming up, looks like he has brights on
>what a cunt
>flash him because im in a bad mood
>he opens the other end of a black hole and blinds me with the collected light from a swallowed galaxy
i can never tell when you guys are being pricks on purpose or just incidentally
Best to worst, top to bottom.
HID in projector
LED in LED specific housing
HIR in projector
Halogen in projector
HID in reflector
HIR in reflector
Halogen in reflector
LED in reflector
>lack of cutoff throws light into eyes of anyone in front of vehicle
OEM headlamps follow SAE standards as listed in the north american federal safety standards rules. That means low beams must have asymmetric light throw (see example picture) as indicated in:
FMVSS / CMVSS 108
en.wikipedia.org
Yeah, yeah, who cares, we all gonna LED it up however we like it. Imma gonna turn on my LED lightbar in front of the cop an he gonna be so blind dis monkey gonna git clean away fore he can see wear I gone.
That's a gr888 idea
Rear facing LED light bars so bright that cops can't read your plate cuz they getting raped in the eyebollz by ur SEMENZ LUMENZ
Try a proper led.
Hahaha
We dont really want to, but on the inside we enjoy it a tiny bit
Mind you, I'm on about people not turning their own high beams off, not having my own lights improperly set
>Dunno about him but I just welded the bolts once I got it adjusted right.
That works as long as the thief doesn't have a bolt cutter that can nibble away at any cross arm. In the USA, thieves aren't polite about causing collateral damage when trying to remove things quickly.
I occasionally see "loiterers" with backpacks that are stretched out "vertically long" as if there is something long, thin and heavy inside the backpack. A boltcutter or crowbar could be such a thing inside the backpack.
>Try a proper led.
It seems LED bars get range not by better focusing like HID or halogens, but by throwing brute force lumens. When seeing them in person, they seem so much harsher.
Not so much, it has a lot to do with the how each small reflector is formed, and ofcourse the power of the bulb itself
You can find bars consisting of 100 x 3W bulbs having better range than a 60 x 5W bulbs and so on
Don't have a cross arm. Mounts straight to the bumper with brackets that follow the bar. You wouldn't be able to cut it off with bolt cutters. They would either have to damage the light itself to the point where it's worthless, or get out a grinder.
Even then they're almost always aimed too high by default and drivers don't realise they can be adjusted.
>You wouldn't be able to cut it off with bolt cutters.
That's excellent then. Bolt cutters are a chronic problem in the USA. Way too many thieves or homeless have access to one and use them to get into places or take things out of trucks even in the daytime parking garages.
No. I'm actually learning a lot about LED lights that I didn't know before and where to get them. I really like that mtnelectronics site. It's something I've wanted but never could find before.
2017 Camry SE (yes I am that cuck who pays cash for a sport trim family sedan)
55W 6000K HID in le low beams, in proyyector lenses (they are the outermost bulbs).
3000lumen 6000K LEDs (Cree XHP-50 diodes) in le high beams, middlemost bulbs.
JDM ASTAR (Amazon brand) LED switchbacks in the foglight looking position (they're actually turn signals), alternates b/w 6000K white as a running light and amber for the turn signal
>no cutoff line
>overpowering foreground light
You're not helping your point.
That's because the optics used for most LEDs are complete trash, so the only way to get more light where you want it is to just up the lumens and hope some the extra output gets to where you want it. Makes for an inefficient use of lumen output that can result in decreased performance even with more light. That's why HID is king for long range lighting. LEDs find their niche in flood lighting and signal lighting which don't require any real control over the pattern.