QTDDTOT/SQT

torque converter wont allow that
if the stall value on your converter is 1500rpm the wheels will spin a bit before that.
Most stock torque converters arnt that high in rpm

my truck's exhaust has a faint smell of gas when I start it first thing in the morning. I don't smell gas at any other time, and the truck runs fine. should I be worried?

probably just the mixture running rich for startup

considering they're in a comparable price/mileage range, which should i buy if i want a practical, moderately fast highway cruiser:

2001-2005 lexus is300 (2jz-ge)
2007+ V6 camry (2gr-fe)
1991-2001 LS400 (1uz-fe)

I just bought a 2000 VW gti from a family friend for 750$. When the time comes, where should I look for a chip tune?

APR seems popular but I've heard their tunes will grenade your engine.

vr6?

1.8T

enjoy your coilpacks.

I'm trying to find a manual for the b6 Passat (2005-10) but can't seem to find any. Is there something I'm missing?

My brother had late 90s GTI Vr6 and loved it. $3000. He's a VW nerd though,before that he had an 83 rabbit

I want to get a fun, new(ish) hatchback to hoon around in, and I'm looking at a 2015 Fiat 500 Abarth. Seems like a good car within my price range, and honestly I'm a sucker for Italian badges and aesthetic, otherwise I'd probably get a Fiesta or something.

Are there any major issues or problems with the car I should know about before going in? Any particular reason I should stay away from them?

The dash is buttfuck ugly

lowest reliability rating of almost any car manufacturer. overstressed tiny engine. quality italian electronics.

Subjective, my dude.

Fair enough, I'll take that into consideration. I think I may like the car enough to take those faults in stride.

That shifter placement.

Lads I love the 944 shape.
What are some other cars that aren't a money pit with similar shape and 4 seats?

eastnc.craigslist.org/cto/5947484055.html

Should I buy this? Called dealer and he said the reason for low price was paint.

I worked at a Honda/Chevy/Fiat dealership as a lot attendant and did a lot of deliveries / dealer trades for Fiat a few years ago. The 500 Abarth is the slowest piece of shit I've had the displeasure of driving. To even get to 40 MPH at the same rate of moderate acceleration a Civic/Corolla would, you have to absolutely wring its neck. Thanks to the fart can on the back, everyone around you knows you're laying on it too. I get that it's not made for straight line speed, but just general driving is depressing unless you're in low-speed twisties at all times. Getting up to normal speed limits is embarrassing, and it was the first time I've ever experienced that outside of the smart cars we'd get in on trades.

Every mechanic that had to work on them wanted to kill themselves. The Fiat dealership closed 1 year ago, owner had enough sense to not renew contract and drop them.

there is only one answer

Is it bad that this doesn't connect to anything (car is a 1999 Mitsubishi galant)
Also what do I do if my oil drainage screw won't come off I can get it to turn it just doesn't come off

If I'm going to buy a cheap z31, specifically an 87 2+2, what are the key things to look for. I have a few options ranging from $1,500 to $5,000 but I'd rather come out lower obviously, so if I come out cheaper getting the $1,500 one and fixing a few small things, I'd like to know what to look for.

Does 90' geo prizm/ Corolla (EE90) have some kind of indication for Jack points? cuz I accidentaly jacked cars rails and damaged(squished) them a bit also for an pol change should I get a copper ring for oil plug?

That's a rerun of the first Fiat fuckup. They are trash because Italians can build pretty vehicles but abominate reliable machinery.

Owners manual, service manual, brand specific forum.

I can't find any Haynes manuals for the b6 Passat (05-10). Do you they just not exist? Is there something similar I can find?
Why wouldn't they have them?

I wish so, but I cannot find service manual in my country at all(not even haynes manual), only choice is to order it from outside which I would but I want the whole set. Brand specific forums take literal months between replys. Was hoping for an anons with tercel or some shit to help me as they are pretty similiar.

neutral and full gas

18, trying to get my shit together.

I'm stuck with this 2007 Dodge Caliber until I earn enough for a new DD.

205,000 miles, original motor/trans, $600-700 in loan/lien fees that my parents never paid because they stopped driving it.

The transmission had started overheating on hot days or when faced with many hills. It's a CVT, (Jatco JF011E automatic), so I have no transmission dipstick. Do I get it flushed? I have no idea what condition the fluid is in but I doubt it's pretty, although I'm afraid that it might start slipping if there is debris keeping it together.

It's been sitting outside on a slightly sloped driveway for 2 years.

Right now it starts OK every time when I jump it, but I haven't driven it anywhere since it isn't registered.

What do I need to check before I start using it as my DD? here is what I have come up with so far.

Frozen brakes/seized calipers
rusted rotors
shot wheel bearings
flat spotted tires/cracked tires ( the rear tires were flat but seem to be holding air again)
cracked/dry rotted rubber lines
check belts
condensation in gas tank?
Check fuel pump condition
suspension is probably very worn

change battery
change oil
change coolant
change brake fluid
change/flush tranny
replace fuel filter
replace oil filter
Clean HVAC intake
Change motor mounts

Thank you for your time, I appreciate it.

>inb4 srt4 swap

>'83 Oldsmobile Firenza Cruiser
>with a manual
>virtually no rust
>under 100k miles
>been watching it for months and price dropped from a thousand to 700 bucks

Why shouldn't I buy an old j-body shitbox?

Go buy it

CVT Fluid is expensive. How much do you have saved up right now?

You have it pretty much all down, but I'd suggest just getting your own car with a smaller list of problems and ride the bus for now.

3k can get you a lot of things, not sporty or fast, but it can get you a DD for sure. I'm sure if you truly save up you can get 3k in no time.

i want a sedan, desu. also there are no sc300s near me.

I'm bidding on a '97 Fairmont, $1000USD at the moment but I expect it could go up to $1500

200,000 Kms
Looked in good condition, tread depth was a bit low, about 2mm, no leaks I could see

Anyone want to talk me off the ledge? My last car was a BMW 3 series coupe that bent me over and raped me for repair costs, I was 16 and didn't notice the nigger rigging like duct tape on the air exhaust, shattered glass in the rear speakers (obvious reaerending, especially with the paint job). I don't want to get fucked again.

I have around $700

Focusing on getting hired right now, there's a grocery store and a CVS within walking distance that I'm going to apply for.

yeah, I'm considering just doing the bare minimum in maintenance and just parting the car out when the tranny blows. I feel like I shouldn't fix it up much because of the fees.

Be careful some older vehicles don't have rev limiters.

Not sure what the issue with the feet, but you probably shouldn't run the car until you find out fluids you're actually leaking,.

Rx7, 280zx

where is the vinbro threads, I really need some hondas looked up im trying to buy!

What's the best radar detector performance wise? Do cheap ones suffer in performance significantly?

I can't pass smog on my 1997 Jeep. There are two codes that won't open. The catalytic converter and air evaporation (?) something code. I've driven 500 miles and it still won't open.

Anything I can do? I've had a 2004 Audi before that took me over 1,000 miles before the codes opened and even then I had to take it to a professional to fix.

Will they open by themselves or is this a sign of something worse? I was thinking of changing the catalytic converter, but I don't want to risk wasting money.

Dumb question. Trying to get an older muscle car, late 90s early 2000s. Is there a sweetspot in miles to buy used without too many crippling problems

Budget 11k

What are some general Veeky Forums Discords I can join?

Yes yes, I know... Discord, but no one uses anything else.

My dampers in my car are one-way adjustable, each with a knob that goes from 1 (softest) to 4 (hardest).

Suppose I set my dampers to hardest, does that mean the springs compress at a slower rate and the weight transfer isn't as fast when I am cornering?

My car makes some weird ass harmonic vibration noises when I turn to the right

>normal straight line driving
vrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
>start turning to the right, the harder i turn at speed the more pronounced it gets
vrrWUBRRWUBRRWUBRRWUBRRWUBRRWUBRRWUB

Anyone know what the fuck?

Accidentally got used 5w20 in my hair while changing my oil. Will there be negative side effects?

>Older muscle car
>Late 90s early 2000s
I don't even consider my turd gen Camaro an older muscle car

I've narrowed down what cars I wanted to look at (provided they're still available in 1 to 2 weeks), pic related is a good second choice for me.

Is it possible to accurately speculate what the undercarriage of the car would look like based on the engine bay? What would those brown stuff even be? Plain dirt/dust or even salt?

Dealer says in ad that it has a rust module and is oil sprayed. How sneaky would it be for the dealer to have the undercarriage sprayed AFTER it has already been salt-rusted? Could I even tell with a quick picture with my phone?

I am tempted for this mazdaspeed6. Other choice I'm looking at is a corolla XRS (2006).

>4 seats

Soup Veeky Forums

What affordable v12 engine could I use in a kit car?

I was thinking of a 850ci engine since it can cannibalize some 840ci parts.

Will the Vortec 4200 fit in a 240z?

Is there a way to hire someone to find a rarer car for you? Is this a real service?

Jag xjs maybe

>been looking at an old 1988 Honda 125cc bike.
>know nothing about riding a bike, but want to learn and use it during summer when city is congested (Car is a drag when driving to college and back in heat rush).
>The bike has 8000km. Owner wants to sell it for 650 euro backs, im planning to offer 300 to him 350 max.
>not sure I want to get my bike licence or even register it.
>can do every repair on the thing itself.
also where do I store the bike when out in city? I can`t imagine just parking it wherever since IT would be unregistered and im not sure how easy they are to steal.

Could something like this be dd'able? It would be really cool to be able to put out fires that I come across. If I saw a qt on the side of the interstate with her car on fire, I could pull over, extinguish it, and say something like "is your ass on fire too? Because i got a hose if you want it..."

cnj.craigslist.org/cto/5944393948.html

Any time I have any bit of money saved up, I instantly want to blow it on another shitbox.

I've at points in my life, had up to 4 shitboxes, all tagged and insured in my driveway.

It's an addiction. Like, I have 1500 in my account right now, and all I want to do is buy a junk RX-7, or a shitty Firebird, or a BMW.

Id reccomend looking into Unitronic's tunes
Currently running their 830cc tune, before that their Stg 1+ no issues

Cant vouch for the other comapnies but I havent heard anything good about APR

It makes your dampeners softer or stiffer depending on the setting.

I mean I've had my 944 for 7 years now and no problems. literally just basic maintenance and I re-did the front end tie rods, brakes , rear brakes, swapped the fuel filter twice and replaced the tires. whilst its expensive WHEN it does break, i've yet to experience the issue

Drill it out with an EZ out. as for your tube to nothing, Im fairly certain thats your coolant vent, so when you do a flush, all you gotta do is squeeze the rad line a few times to get the air out, the vent helps prevent back pressure/air bubbles.

Get the official workshop manual from VW

could be
>axle mounts
>shot bearings
>shot bushings
>loose, fucked tie-rod, tie-rod ends
look for any leaks too, never know if you hit some shit/some shit hit you. look for warping in brakes/rotors too. lastly check if you've got wheel rash on the inside of your wheel wells. I haven't even mentioned all the other possible issues it could be with your steering rack/power steering system
KEEP
IT
SIMPLE
STUPID

That's exactly as you described, dampers change the rate of compression and extension of the springs, not the spring rate itself.

Need to add power steering fluid. So do i just pour some in check level and then im done? Or do i have to pour some in then get in and start the engine and move the vehicle a bit then add more when its cooled down and repeat? I read to do that somewhere. The level of fluid right now is very low.

Axle mounts are fine, bearings are new, bushings are new (except the engine mount bushings are super fucked and need to be replaced)
tie rods are are tight and not damaged. The only leaks it has are minimal clutch fluid and some coolant from one of the hoses that goes into the block, it's a very very small leak for both.

Wheels don't rub unless I'm 100% absolutely full locked which only happened once when it was icey out. Rotors are a possibility but it seems odd that it only happens when turning one way.

I'd only really worry about the fluids and the tires for now. When you get the money you can start worrying about the other stuff listed.

If you see nothing wrong when you go to test drive it id do it.

O shit so i put in some power steering fluid i bought from napa i asked which to get. But in my vehicle the manual says to put ATF. The fluid in before i poured some in was the pinkish color of ATF the stuff i just poured in was clear yellowish. And I think I overfilled it am i fucked?

yo, I have a 97 Integra Gsi (nonvtec). what oil is best to put in my car, 10w40 or 5w30 or what. I live in melbourne australia if that matters.

Rev limiters are a meme. Just like all those other ECU "features" they force on your cars

why are dealerships still selling new 15 cars?

how much of a discount should you expect from one since it's a least a year old so not "new" anymore?

Is there any way to make your exhaust quieter without changing the muffler(s)? I was thinking a blow off valve, but wouldnt that make it louder as the exhaust would essentially end wherever the valve is when its open?

I don't have any jumper cables but I have a spare battery that's charged. Can I start my car with the other battery, then switch my flat one in while the car is running?

Any Mechanics here that have gone to a tech school? If so, which one?

Has anyone gone to UNOH, UTI, or Wyotech?
What do you recommend?

Moving to Colorado from the northeast after buying a car I plan on holding onto for 3-5 years, my question is this; the used car market is fucking shit, as such how do I buy a car that actually fits my criteria when basically fucking none exist within 500 miles? (Using the same criteria for what I'm buying here)

Do you just buy a car across the country you've never seen in person and have it shipped, fly out 1,500 miles to see a car just to have a deal fall through, suck it up and buy a new car (I'm shopping light-moderately used) or what?

>blow off valve
>on exhaust

I hope you meant waste gate.

Also that would only make it louder since you need boost reference to keep either of them closed.

it wouldn't work, exhaust would just pass through and be just as loud as before.

Don't be a cheap shit and just the replace the muffler.

That isn't what a blow off valve does at all. Only certain turbo vehicles will have those.

Currently a 1st year @ NAIT

Drive to where one is located. I live in Minnesota and have driven to Texas for a vehicle before.

Hows it like?

So guys, I have an 06 PT cruiser and my front 5 gang window switch smoked and stopped working. Thinking it was just the switch, i bought a new one and it did the same. What could be the problem lads?

Don't waste your money. Get a job as an entry level lube tech to see if you like the environment, if you do take some community college classes.

Im not trying to be cheap. I like the way it sounds, and i dont want to change that. I really only want to make it quieter for times when i have to leave my house after dark.

>1984 Chevy C10
>3 forward gears
>no overdrive
I wish

>PT cruiser

Is underglow gay-tier, based-tier or somewhere in the murky in-between? Specifically thinking about putting red underglow on a black 2013 Mustang GT

Gay tier. It's sort of making a comeback because kids are ricing their cars "ironically" now, but don't let that fool you. It's gay.

>89 festiva
>130k miles
>no visible rust anywhere
>last owner replaced a bunch of shit
>5 speed manual
>1200$

Should I go for it, been wanting to learn how to drive stick, and get better gas mileage

What would be the best aftermarket ecu for an obd1 vehicle? Ive looked for some, but all ive found is Megasquirt. Wanting to get a few options together before deciding.
Would it be possible to use an obd2 ecu? Would i have to completely convert to obd2 to be able to do that?

I know, but I got it for $800 and needed a car. First car by the way

So would setting the dampers to a soft setting help transfer more weight quickly to the outside tire, thus adding more grip?