/dmt/ Daily Manual Thread

If it helps at least 1 person it's more productive than 95% of Veeky Forums.

How much does it normally cost to replace flywheel, slaves, clutch, etc on a vehicle? Is it safe to say that if you're just needing to do the flywheel, the labour itself will be the most expensive part?

So grinding down the flywheel would cost $700 while replacing it would cost $800 or something like that? It's cold up here and I have nowhere to reconstruct my transmission for 4-8 hours.

700 or 800 dollars or something like that

bump

is it bad to be constantly driving at 2500-3000 rpm?

when driving in streets and stuff I can get my rpms under 2000 in 3rd gear.

but in main roads when going 50mph I seem to always be around the 2500-3000 mark

autofag please go

No its worse when I am not accelerating.

About a month or two after I bought the car. Its a 2016 Mazda6 I bought in August of 2016.

nope totally fine, it seems a tad bit high since my car rests at 2800 going 70mph but idk what you drive so I think you're fine

depends on your redline and gearing
Lot of big cars have low redlines, a landcruiser my mom bought when I was born redlined at like, 4k
With how my toyobaru is geared, I hit 3k at 70mph, or at 40 on 4th
The auto version is geared for mpg and I saw they hit like, 2.8k at 70
My question, Is it possible to make a transmission feel new again?
I decided an e36 m3 would be my next car, but I'm not sure what needs to be replaced beyond the mounting bushings

it depends on the traffic, if its moving a constant pace then you can just idle the engine in a lower gears, depending on the car at least most 1.2-2.0 shit boxes can idle along in the typical 1st and 2nd gear ratios happily along a flat surface, most turbo diesels and beefier petrol engines can idle a car along happily at decent speeds on flats, if the engine starts to jugger and shake, or you can sense more than usual vibrations you are probably putting strain on the engine.

I dont change gear without the clutch, I can do that (without crunching), but I believe it still puts strain on transmission components unless done absolutely perfectly, you are better off rev matching and using the clutch to minimise wear, the wear to the clutch when you are matching revs for your gear changes is absolutely negligable.

Idk I've only ever driven my car in manual, but my car will roll on any slight incline.

Did it once cause my auto was in the shop. Never again, inching forward killed my foot and the clutch.

My 2.3L shitbox is able to idle in 4th gear. Granted I have to go 1, 2, 3 ,4 to get there, but once there I can do like 20km/h with no throttle input.

I think most modern car computers will apply gas if it thinks it's going to stall out while in motion.

Maybe if you didn't inch forward like a fucking retarded granny you'd be fine.

HA. I'm not sure where you live. But if you aren't on the bumper of the person in front of you. You WILL be honked at or someone will try to squeeze in.

yeah you're right actually, that funny anti-stall system a lot of more modern cars have, my volvo definately had that

an oldschool rule of thumb is if it will accelerate in that gear smoothly then its ok.
If you can only just potter along and cant accelerate then it can be doing damage to the gearbox.
This sort of issue is mostly seen with overdrive gears (like 5th/6th) where the rate the output of the gearbox is higher than the imput. Lots of overdrive gears can be ruined by trying to accelerate at too low a speed (say having the car at 40km/h in top gear and trying to increase speed).
Im not 100% sure about why, just that it causes a lot of stress on the gearbox

Is it worth getting an alcantera shift knob?

refreshing to see people on /o know at least some things

Don't do it if you have sweaty/grimy hands, they can get nasty.

>caring if people honk
Lol user, fuck them. Your job is to get where you're going safely.

I have been driving a 4 cylinder jeep wrangler for a couple years and always shifted at around 3k rpms, I recently bought a 4 speed 84 corvette should i still shift around the same rpms.

What angry shithole do you live in?

Sometimes I drive at 5000-6000rpm @170km/h for an hour.
That doesn´t hurt the engine at all if you have good oil and the engine is on operating temperture.

Welcome to California.

>porsche 6speed gearbox
>really stiff and horrible when its cold
>2nd gear is a little crunchy
>grind second this morning
>no longer crunchy and easily get int into second now

xd

Sounds like you might need to flush the master cylinder fluid. I had that issue a while ago and that fixed it

So what happens when I'm coming to a stop in neutral because the speed is too low to be in 2nd gear and you have an unsynchronized 1st gear? Do I double clutch into 1st or drop it into 2nd and bog?

Just because you can dose not mean you should. upshit mang!

How accurate are these eco gauges that some cars have? My civic has these little green lights next to the tacho, its sort of fun trying to keep them at full.

As long as the oil temperature is correct, it won´t harm the engine since the oil film won´t get interrupted.
As long as the oilfilm doen´t get interrupted, you have hydrodynamic friction, as long as you have hydrodynamic friction you have pretty much no wear.

If the oil temperature is wrong, the oil pressure to low or the engine rpm to high/low you will loose the hydrodynamic for a short time and create wear.

Something that can really help is changing the bushings around the shifter itself. That can make what feels like a sloppy shifter feel like new again.

A car will not go backwards if you are in one of the forward gears, and will not go forwards if you are in reverse. That's the whole point of leaving a gear on when you park on a steep incline to avoid relying entirely on your handbrake.

If your car is rolling backwards while its in forward gear your clutch is slipping.

I think I have this horrible habit I developed when I was first learning to drive period (on a stick). Now, 10 years later, I'm back in a stick car and doing this: always taking it out of gear to brake, or in low speeds.

So If I'm in 4th and slowing down, I take it out of gear when I break, even if I know I won't be coming to a complete stop or won't need to downshift. Similarly, when I'm in parking lots, I can not seem to just leave it in first when I'm crawling. I'm trying to just focus on NOT feeding these bad habits.

Who here #6 speeds??

Yeah boi got dat close ratio gearbox and overdrive for mpgees. Sweden had thought of everything

So you shouldn't ever try to speed up significantly in 5/6 gear?

what gear should I be in if I want to speed up? And how many rpms is too much when in that lower gear

How hard am I fucking up my tranny if I shift from 5/6th to 2nd (never going above redline of course, and revmatching) to get the most out of engine braking?

That's what I was afraid of, but I still can't be sure until this ice completely melts, and that probably won't be for another month. Shifts fine while driving though, if it doesn't maybe need a tiny bit of extra force/the pedal to be confidently depressed.

For acceleration at higher speeds, you pick the lowest gear that doesn't put you at redline, ideally the one closest to where your car makes the most power. Different for every car, just takes some experimentation. Taking it up close to redline isn't bad as long as you're not keeping it there; for overtaking it's not a huge deal to be at high rpm since your engine/oil will already be at nominal temperature anyway and you won't stay in that high rpm range for long.

I don't think it's that bad, keep in mind you save gas when you leave it in gear as a motivator.

You can accelerate in any gear, but you should stay above 1500 rpm or what ever rpm you start lugging the engine.
For maximum efficiency try to run it at maximum torqe and whide open throttle.

For maximum performance you usually shift when hitting the rev. limiter.

Not at all. Assuming by "revmatching" you mean double-clutch (or just no-clutching), not just blipping the throttle with the clutch in.

Not at all. Assuming by "revmatching" you mean double-clutching (or no-clutching if you're not a beta fag), rather than just blipping the throttle with the clutch in.

>maximum torque and wide open throttle
to be clear, this only applies to efficiency, not economy. That means "getting the most work out for the heat put in", not "getting the most empegees".

You get more mpg as well if you accelerate like that.
You can´t get to your desired speed more efficiently.
Obviously you can´t keep the engine in that area for a long time before getting to fast.

Hypermilers use a technique called pulse and glide for maximum fuel economy.
"pulse" is acceleration and "glide" is coasting in neutral, some hypermilers even shut down the engine comppletely.
Usually you accelerate from 50mph to about 65mph and let your car coast down to 50 again.

Theses techniques are more effective if your car has a more powerfull engine, since you usually are running it far from its peak efficiency under normal conditions.

Pls help

bought a blob eye and don't know how to drive stick.

is this car forgiving to learn on?

Blip throttle to like 2300 rpm and drop it into second so it won't bog what are you retarded

I mean if I'm at 5 MPH I doubt it'll catch in 2nd at 2300 without bucking but ok

>buy 4wd with turbo
>don't know how to handle it.

Buddy you gonna get the catch in like 2 weeks but, you won't draw pleasure out of it as you are always afraid because you can't fully control the car. This will hold you back.

really it's going to make me learn more slowly?

You will learn about as fast as on other cars, but it will take more time to master a turbo AWD.

don't listen to that idiot. It's just a higher ceiling to aim towards over a longer period of time.These faggots buy shitbox civics or miatas as their first cars, then end up ricing the fuck out of them and doing shit like garbage ebay coilovers because they got bored of how shit their car is. Or they sell it and take a huge loss and finance something not as shitty but still shit because they fell for the "driver skill" meme. As long as you're not autistic and don't wrap it around a pole there's nothing wrong with it. Take your time learning it's limits (preferably not on public roads) and you'll be fine.

I drive one of these, all Ican say if you're learning to drive is avoid accelerating hard after shifting from 3rd to 2nd if you're not used to the turbo pull, it handles very well and is easy to drive, 1k rpm is the point where your engine won't lug, 2k on a hill. the gearbox is great on mine you'll have fun learning boiiii

>tfw all I wanted was a manual Integra
>tfw no one had one in all of Parrish in my price range ($3,000)
>tfw stuck with an autotragic '99 Integra LS

Life is suffering

Is it okay to drive around in second gear at speeds 30-40? I commute in pretty heavy traffic and on hilly roads. I slow down so frequently that upshifting to third or fourth doesn't really make sense most of the time since my RPMs would fall below 2000s. If I was going continually at 50-60 I could upshift to 4th gear but it looks like in city driving, that's mostly not the case.

Also, does it count as "riding the clutch" if I am stopped at a light, or stopped at a light on a hill, and I release the clutch to the bite point in advance while stationary (holding down the brake)? How bad is it for the car to do this?

If you're already doing the flywheel you might as well do the clutch and slave too.

That is riding the clutch and kills it pretty fast.
Use your brakes to stop your vehicle, they are designed to do so.
Your clutch isn´t.

How fast is pretty fast? I'm been constantly doing it for a couple of days.

That depends on many factors, just stop doing that.

If you are stopped somewhere use the brakes to keep the vehicle stationary. If you need to nudge the car just a few inches if you're parking or something you can slip the clutch to nudge you just a little. Ideally you would be completely off the brakes when moving so as to slip the clutch the least amount of time

I do use the brakes, not the clutch to stay stationary. What I mean to say is that I hold down the brake pedal but I partially engage the clutch so that I am ready to take off when traffic starts moving.

As long as it slips, it will wear our.

Can I ruin the car in a couple of days by doing this? I'm really worried now. I'm still only learning to drive manual and I feel like I'm doing untold damage every time I am driving.

>the absolute state of Veeky Forums

Usually not, if your clutch wasn´t worn out before.

As long as you don´t grind gears, stress synchros or slip the clutch there is pretty much no significant wear.

Don't stress too much about it. You will wear the clutch out eventually, just as you will wear your break pads out. Just don't be the retard swinging back and forth for the whole duration of the red light while in an incline and you'll be fine

moving a broom stick in a bucket of rocks...pretty much how majority of Subaru 5spd used trannies feel like..and I like it.

>drive a taco
>tfw no tachometer

so that's normal for suabrus is it

>drive an automatic
>cruise everywhere
>listen to these broken exhaust manuals drive next to me
>erratic revving, a bunch of pointless shifts (who needs 5 when you've got 3)
>all in a shitbox that makes less horsepower than half of my block

>mfw I just half press down on my gas pedal, the car downshifts smoothly, and I accellerate instantly 'cause shiftkit

I have a 5spd manual car.

is it bad that I don't use the 5th gear.

I'm still learning and im still not used to downshifting and 5th gear seems so far away

A read a few weeks ago in a manual thread that you should keep the clutch pushed in on a full stop instead of just sitting in N. never heard this before but it sounds like bull. Wouldn't you just wear out the bearings/fluids?

I had this problem when I was learning too, it felt clumsy shifting up-right-up, but when you learn to do it in one fluid diagonal motion it makes it a lot more fun

Have you not gone on the freeway or are you just hitting 4.5k on 4th or what

I assume you mean you went into neutral going to a light or something and then it went green just before you stopped?
Just a touch of gas while going into second imo, unless you're going 1-3 mph, then double clutch

My mr2 is not geared for the highway. 80 mph is 4000 rpm like what the hell

On the freeway in 5th my MR2 sits probably at 4k. Its dependent on the car. Mine probably is about where your is at 50.

I keep it in neutral. My fucking leg starts hurting if I keep my foot down on the clutch at stop lights

How long does it usually take to learn manual?

Took me 10 minutes my pops got me a shit box and said have fun driving back, it's amazing how fast you learn in such a situation.

15 minutes for the basics to be able to drive around. Thousands upon thousand of miles to master

Doesn't even fit.

You bought the autotragic Integra instead? Fucking cuck.

How can you tell if your clutch is burning? Like will you recognise it or is it something other drivers will see

what would I need to do to make it start burning?

It is not litteraly burning, it starts to smell.

will I definitely know when it happens or can it easily not noticed if you don't know much about cars

I've been driving my first manual for a few months now, and generally I think I'm doing a relatively okay job. However, there are a few things I notice I'm doing and am not sure if they're doing unnecessary damage or if I could be doing things better.

I tend to rev a little high when taking off, usually about 2k rpm. That's just where my foot likes to be on the accelerator for some reason. I don't seem to start rough, but should I retrain myself to lower that to 1.5k even though I get moving more slowly? I'm worried if it's any lower than that, it'll die.

Secondly, I don't ever downshift into 2nd or 1st. When I'm coming to a stop I just pop in the clutch and brake. I'm thinking this is fine, since everything is disconnected when the clutch is in. But if I pop in the clutch and start to stop, then need to go back into gear, I'm left trying to put it into 2nd or 1st and doing the same thing I do in question one, putting it to 2k and letting the clutch out. Should I just suck it up and take a few hours to learn how to downshift into those gears properly?

Lastly, if I'm downshifting to stop or slow, does it matter if I'm rev matching, since I'll just be going the same speed in a different gear? Obviously the car slows down slightly faster but not really enough to be making any difference, I still have to use the brake every time. Can I just not bother downshifting and pop in the clutch and brake? Or should I be downshifting without rev matching to get the maximum deceleration and then brake as necessary? A buddy of mine said that downshifting without rev matching was perfectly fine, and should be used if you're planning to stay in gear, but I've found that doing this feels way worse to me than smooth braking, since it's a ton of deceleration at one time instead of a controlled slowing.

It will definitely smell. It's a smell I've never smelt before and i instantly knew it was my clutch