/classic car general/ - /ccg/

That's a great picture

Sure. Went for a nice drive through the park today with the lady

Nobody cares

You obviously care enough to respond to it. You love kit kat, it's okay, you can tell us

It was a cleverly disguised bump friendo

Here's a question.
When I crank my engine, which is topped by a Holley 4160, should I be seeing fuel leaving the boosters, or even a wet residue on the butterflies and barrels

any good videos to watch on how to replacing a camshaft with the engine still in the car for an I6 pushrod engine?

I fucked up by buying the wrong cam, ive been told its possible to jack up the engine and replace the camshaft through the grill but i want to see someone else do it first

>the grill but i want to see someone else do it first
You can if the girl is big enough.

I know it's common on slant six valiants and darts but you gotta yank the radiator anyway.

Do i have to take the harmonic balancer off first? Should i replace my timing chain when i replace the camshaft? So its completely possible to replace the camshaft without taking off the sump?

Yes to those things generally, but be careful when putting the camshaft in, it's pretty hard to see what you're doing
Dunno if you've seen this article yet
slantsix.org/articles/in-car-camshaft/install-review.htm

I gots me a racin car
Can anyone guess what this is sitting in?

Trying to get my self a 65 ford falcon, whats a good price it? My dad keeps saying anything above 4,000 is for one is overpriced for what the car is. The question is he right?

dont be fooled by the size of the engine/overall size of the car. It was an economy car when it came out so it has no performance value to it. its body styling was and is really conservative and the technology was not paving new ground. its the equivalent of a base model Ford Focus in its target demographic, that is entry level 6 cylinder with no frills that youths could buy

4k is about right tho, wouldn't spend more because for that price i could have a V8 of the same vintage

Thanks for the info, wanting to buy one for daily driving, and just wanted something classic but not 25,000. Any places you would subjest looking for one? Live in cali been trying over craigslist here and there, but they all want 8,000 or more. Looking in the 1,500-4,000 range.

keep looking, dont settle for the first one you see on cl. It will take a while but one will come up for your price range. The ones you see for 8k just remember you see them because they havent sold, the ones that sell regularly go for cheaper. You'll find one in your price range just be patient and perform daily checks on cl

Since question thread is ded, I'll ask here - there is a 1979 Taunus coupe near me, cheap (like 1.3k), with body and paintjobs done (and pretty well too). But its 1.6l.
Question is, what kind of semi modern 6 cyl can I put in with least effort?

Also nothing too extreme, I think 140-180 hp would be enough.

Is it the 1.6 V4 or I4?
The V4 has room to make power but you'd probably need to talk to ford directly for parts, they used to use those V4s as industrial engines as well.

only a V6 would fit in there, but whatever it is probably won't bolt to the gearbox.

literally anything is going to require some degree of modification, dont be a lazy cunt

A Ford 250 or 200 will literally be the easiest because it requires the least amount of wiring, easily the cheapest option and it has some aftermarket so you're not completely in the dark on most things. Building those engines are piss easy too and can make 100hp in stock form but i have seen people take these engines out to 200hp

Its not exciting but it'll work

Problem is, I'm in Yurop, so most v6 I see for sale are from some Mazdas or Mondeos.

carandclassic.co.uk/car/C827044

I'd love to get around this car but I just don't have the time or the garage space right now. Looks like a lot of attention required but also so beautiful,thoughts?

>pic related

Its an l4.
I thought about the BMW l4, the 140hp one too, since its easy to get it complete (as in engine, ecu, drivetrain) for cheap here.

The Taunus TC had optional Cologne V6s with 2L and 2.3L displacement. I don't know how well the V6 bolts into Taunuses that had the I4, but it probably shouldn't be much of an issue and the good thing is that the Cologne architecture was produced until rather recently actually.

Later on in the V6 there was a
- 2.9L making 140-ish hp in the Ford Ranger, Transit and Granada and an
- OHV 4.0L making 160 hp or SOHC 4.0L making 215 hp in the Ford Ranger/Mazda B-Series and Ford Explorer

I think the 2.9L and SOHC would be worth taking a look at. 160 hp from a 4.0L sounds weak and thirsty as fuck. Just look up the Cologne V6 on Wikipedia and then click the links to the articles on the cars they were in to see which years apply.

Whatever engine you get just at least get a matching gearbox as well. I'm not too versed on European stuff.

Looks like it's in better condition than any AMX i've seen in Murica and cheaper as well.
It also has the 4 speed which is really dank.
I'd get it if i was you.

I'm not a huge expert in AMX. Honestly I'd get it myself but like I said I'm already working on a rally car at the moment.

Actually let me correct that. The 2.9L made 160 hp in Europe thanks to (mechanical lol) fuel injection, and there was also a 2.8L in the Ranger and Granada also making 160 hp.

So your options are 160 hp 2.8L or 2.9L Cologne V6 or 215 hp 4.0L Cologne V6.

>sourcing AMC parts in Europe
Mopar parts and GM's pre-common special snowflake engines are hard enough as it is, but AMCs are true unicorns around here. There's a reason it's this cheap (apart from the rusty body). The bloke probably thought "oh yeah, I'm gonna restore me this cheap AMX and it's going to be great and everything" and then he realized that he'd have to ship most stuff from the US.

I'd rather avoid anything with mechanical FI. I'll look into the 2.3 engine.

Your choice, but the larger ones were produced more recently and put into more utilitarian vehicles which I imagine makes them far easier to find. The older ones basically only come from Granadas and Taunuses themselves, not worthless Transits or Rangers.

AMCs used big 3 parts as well.

>All AMXs came with four-barrel carbureted small block[33] AMC V8 engines

Yes and?

Almost 15% of parts used in any given AMC came from another manufacturer.

Nova?

I got loads to dump, but BMW didn't mean much in the early days, it was all about Mercedes. just saying.

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i'll just stop for now..

It's a shame a lot of these cars are so damn expensive. I'd love to own something like this

Nope, but if I don't sell the Nova, it'd be a nice drop-in once it's ready to go back on the road.

One hint: Grandma

Alright, finally found a car I can take parts off of at a local junkyard.
Today I scooped up the driver side wiper spline assembly, air intake snorkel, tabs for my glove box so it doesn't just flop down when it's opened and 1 small red reflective square for the passenger door light.
Got it all for $20 too

What classic muscle car has the meanest looking front end?

Noice.

'68 charger

Malibu wagon?

Agreed. '68 front ends looked so ominous with the hidden lights and lack of trim.

Anyways, here's what that 383 is in.

>383 SBC
>80s shitbox
>flyover shit in the background
Checks out

>Want to pick up my front wheels finally
>Moving soon so have to wait until I get to my new place
Fugg

Same guy. When I use the accelerator pump it fires for a few seconds and sounds pretty good, but then doesn't idle just shuts off.
I have had a lot of spitting through the carb. I know the bowls are full because I have checked the sight holes. When are rock the car I have it slopping through the holes. It doesn't leak from the boosters.
When I turn the car over with the butterflies open and my hand over the intake I don't actually feel it drawing any air in.

I actually got a really good deal on it.
Still gotta finish it up, though.
>Connect headers to flowmasters
>Get rid of squishy factory rear end
>New wheels/tires
>New alternator
>Install trans brake

What is it exactly

Took this pic today. That Chevy was a real 20 footer

Looks like a cutlass or a regal

>tfw shitbox got keyed after I put an ironic reagan '84 bumper sticker on it
>covered ex-keying primer with more reagan stickers

Butthurt nofuns ruin everything these days. Nobody can take a joke anymore.

youtu.be/VjCyVfBiwpE

It's funny, I catch more people at lights taking pictures of it than anything else. I've got to thank Dracula for getting me then though, it's stellar.

>Chevy engine in an Oldsmobile
People used to sue over that

Kek.

I would love a 455 g body but from looking at the pics, I'm not surprised. The 307 want worth a shit either.

The exhaust on that chebby is makin me moist

if it's a stepside it's pronounced "chubby"

Thing looked like shit up close but I love the body lines

It's an '88 Cutlass Supreme. Basically a mild drag car that isn't completely finished yet. I wish I had the balls to keep driving it on open headers. Might have to install some cut-outs when I have the exhaust welded together.

That's pretty fucking insane

I've had my Trump sticker fucked with before so I understand that, but I can't understand why anybody would get shitter shoahed over a fucking Reagan sticker.

What do you guys think of this car and its price? sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/5998406002.html

Who knows it doesn't exist anymore

That's pretty cool man. How much did you get it for?

page 10 bump

New hubcaps:

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>His tires are bluewalled

>tfw
I got another sticker and put it on a magnet so I could just slap it on and take it off when I'm parked

Fucking commies

Brand new tires and caps? Looking spiffy

noice, what are they from?

Beetle taillights?

Question.... Are the exhaust manifolds for the 1v 225 slant 6 compatible with the intake manifold for the "Super 225" 2v? I've just realized that the latter was not, in fact, available for 1971

Blue means new.

They're not new caps; they're from a 1977 Chrysler New Yorker, but they fit Corvette rally wheels AND are cheap.

Yeah; one of the only things I don't like about the car.

Is it the worst or most egregious example of the parts-binnery on that thing? And have you sought an aftermarket change - pic totally related, a custom cover on someones Excalibur I found via googling "classic beetle custom taillight"

Yeah; it's a safety regulation thing. I put the custom colored ones on mine, so it's tolerable.

While those are pretty, I already get compared to Cruella De Ville and Hitler on a regular basis.

The winter of my discontent...
When I bought my 74 b300, it had a motorcraft carb on a phenolic spacer modified to be an adapter plate. Ran pretty good, so I didn't care that I had a gypsy-rigged fuel system. Once the real cold of winter set in this year, that spacer warped.
So I bought a Tomco remanufactured stock Holley. This was bad out the gate. Their rebuilding process used the wrong gaskets, and spraypainted the entire body silver (including the bores). This faint diameter reduction made my throttle plates not fully close. I could also tell they used the wrong gaskets. Sent that carb back for another-- there are no others available. So I'm waiting for it to be re-rebuilt. In the mean time, I found an aluminum adapter plate to remount my motorcraft. It wasn't right. Pattern 1/4" too small, but close enough for file work. After all that, I noticed the plate was too small in general and exposed the vac passages. Fuck it, Out of money-- I jb weld popsicle sticks over the gaps. No leaks. While doing this, I accidentally break my pcv. Now I have to breathe these crankcase fumes while I work on it.

Reagan brother!

Yup. I've got a whole stack of them.

I considered a Wallace '68 sticker, but I don't want to get shanked by a dindu.

>When I crank my engine...should I be seeing fuel leaving the boosters, or even a wet residue on the butterflies and barrels.

Cranking speed is way too slow to get the mains feeding so there shouldn't be any fuel exiting the boosters. Any fuel on or above the throttle plates in that situation should only be from the accelerator pump shot. In general if the boosters/venturis look wet the float level is too high for some reason and it's flooding over.
>When I use the accelerator pump
A cold start will almost always require at least one pump of the pedal to set the choke and this will also work the accelerator pump. The slightest movement of the throttle shaft should result in a discharge from the accelerator pump nozzle.

Sounds like a choke problem to me. Get it to fire and see if it wants fuel with some propane or carb cleaner. If it does then you're too lean on the choke. If it doesn't then it's flooding for some reason. Too much choke, too high a float level, burst power valve, etc

Niggers don't know who ran for president in 2012 let alone 1968

>Desire to jump bridges intensifies

Looks like a TPI or a 350/350 or a 340 MOPAR

There's no way that's a tpi, is anything it'd be TBI but it's a big plenum single plane intake probably by edelbrock and with a carb.

Paid $2k for it. I can list all the parts if there's any interest.

383 mated to a TH350

Weiand. I don't fuck with Edelbrock. Gonna replace that gay air cleaner ASAP.

I hear E34s are starting to appreciate and are actually considered classics now that theyr'e almost 30 years old. Any truth to it?