You know what time it is, get in here to expand and share your pointless knowledge
Got a radio put in my car, dude said he hooked it to constant power and it will work when the car is off, is that gonna hurt my battery?
Just started the car after a day of sitting, it had to crank for about 4 seconds but it did start
why is the n54 the best engine in the world and why do people still opt for the 2jz
the n54 is a transmission you nit wit
N55* N54 is too busy breaking to ever do anything
Why is the VIN thread kill?
If a 4wd has an open different for the front and rear, why can't you use 4wd on pavement and where there is adequate traction. I'm not saying there would ever be a reason to, I'm just asking why it would hurt?
*differential
in a full lock turn, the difference between the front outer wheel and the rear inner wheel is something like 70% upfront and 30% in the rear, that's enough to cause wheels to hop, bind and chirp.
The rear diff dosent really like being spun at a speed slower than the wheels can realistically turn, even with an open diff.
are suburbans body on frame?
Whats the difference between mini aux cables and regular ones? My head unit say to connect a mini aux to it. Already tried regular aux and that didnt fit, but everytime i search for mini aux cables theycall say 3.5mm and it seems like the "mini" part is referring to the cable length. Already bought 1 "mini" cable that didnt fit because it was a regular aux, not wasting my time and money on that again. Where can i get an auc cable that will fit mine, or an adapter to make a regular aux work with it?
how do i find a subaru kid to help me find a vacuum leak? I don't smoke or vape and don't have a smoke machine
Yes.
Stand around a tree or two, you'll eventually find one.
you need a 2.5mm jack.
the Vortec 4.8 LR4 engine for the Gen 2 Chevy Tahoe is an iron block destroked LS1 engine
Whats the best way to remove stickers from interior pieces? Would removing them and soaking them in somethingnh work good?
remove panels and soak in goo be gone then heat with a razer blade.
what 18 year old did you buy that shit from
1980 toyota pickup - what can I swap the engine with to make a decent rock crawling overlander? It's 18r right now, stock, runs pretty good.
Razor blade wouldn't scratch it all up though? It's just shitty plastic under. And honestly i did it about a year ago. I actually enjoy sticker bomb even though it doesnt seem like a popular opinion on Veeky Forums
it you're gentle enough you can do it without scratching. honestly if it's an easy part to get out of car then go to a junk yard and just swapit
Try using a sturdy piece of plastic as a scraper first, it shouldn't scratch it
A lower axle gear ratio or a transfer case with lower crawl ratio or a doubler
Exhaust manifold nut was so rusted to the stud, the whole stud came out of the cylinder head when I removed it (thankfully it didn't shear off!)
Got myself a new stud but how should I fit it? Seen recommendations to use 2 nuts backed onto eachother - should I torque it to the same strength as the nut should be on the stud (20 Nm).
Opinions on copper-greasing the stud itself into the head? Or just the nut on the stud?
So keep on with the 18r? The engine is actually good, will probably run forever.
What t case would you use?
>Whats the best way to remove stickers from interior pieces? Would removing them and soaking them in somethingnh work good?
No need to remove. Never use razor on plastic. Do things in this order after you wash hands.
a. Warm (not hot) the area with the stickers via a hair dryer. Cold glue sticks very well to the pores of the plastic and is too cold to flow out (deformation) as you pull on it.
b. Carefully pull them off with your finger nails without scratching the plastic (do not stroke across). If you have no fingernails, use an expired credit card's edge to push on the edges of the stickers. Try first to remove the parts stickers close to any holes.
c. Wash hands. Get sticky tape such as duct tape or masking tape. Apply the sticky side of tape to the remaining stickers and pull off. Repeat as long as you are successful in removing sticky stuff.
d. Slightly dampen Q-tip with Goo Be Gone. Apply to remaining stickers. The liquid should never flow, dribble, or pool on the label because that is too much. Use edge of expired credit card to gently push at the edges of the remaining stickers. Push away from holes and carefully remove debris so it doesn't fall into any holes. Do not dribble goo be gone into holes or you'll be sorry if it gets to a switch or electric contact.
e. Goo Be Gone lets you shove the mess around without it re-sticking to the plastic. After you shoved a bunch, pull off the debris. Then sparingly reapply Goo Be Gone and resume pushing the edges of the mess with the card.
f. You'll get to a point where there isn't much debris but just sticky film on the plastic. Use a clean durable paper towel and firmly stroke it across the mess and it should pull off some of the gummy film and some of the debris.
Again: do not get goo be gone liquid into any switches or electrical contacts.
>he fell for the turbo meme
Does it damage the car greatly if I drive over a pothole? Just drove through a rather large one and didn't see it in time to move out of the way
When I slow almost to a stop there's a soft, kinda high pitched rocking sound from the from wheel area. The slower I get, the slower the sound gets. What could it be?
Is this my alternators fault?
youtube.com
The car also stalls with too much power being used and the alternator is what comes to mind.
Just thread the new stud in until it bottoms out then install the manifold and retorque the nuts after a few heat cycles.
It can yes. Wheels can crack and tires can slip a belt and break apart internally. Suspension can get fucked up too and your steering rack can shift in its mounts causing bad toe alignment or damaged teeth on the rack or pinion.
Rock in the dust shield, worn brake pads, worn bushings.
when should i start worrying about starving oil during corners
>when should i start worrying about starving oil during corners
If the car never triggers the oil light when it was newer, but now the oil light appears when you make sharp turns, then your oil level is low. If the oil level is full, and your oil pump is still working (never heard of them wearing out), then maybe your oil filter is clogged or some oil passages have sludge lining them. Thus oil gets pumped up to the top but takes its time to get back down to the sump to be pumped back up.
First: How to repair headliner thats falling down without having to start pulling trim off and shit
Second: What tube/pipe should i blow into to check for an intake leak, should i just unhook the one at my PCV valve and blow in since i'm replacing it?
Final: if i have a 6 inch wide hole in my dash as well as a bunch of large cracks is there any way to cheaply repair that shit or should i live with it till i can buy a new dash
>how do i find a subaru kid to help me find a vacuum leak? I don't smoke or vape and don't have a smoke machine
Vacuum leaks can be pretty easy to track down. They are high frequency sounds, which don't pass through materials well.
What I usually do is just take a chunk or cardboard or a notebook, and with the engine running hold it in front of me and move it over the various areas a vacuum line could reasonable be. When you hear the vacuum leak noise change significantly, you've usually narrowed down the area to right there.
Don't bottom the stud in the head. Head expands faster than stud = way more stress on the threads than wanted, potentially cracking the head.
Run a thread chaser or bottom tap in the head, then hand tighten the new stud in there. If it bottoms out by hand, rotate it ~1/2 turn out.
use locktite, I'm way too lazy to get into the why though.
The only reason you would do any of that is if your head is already messed up or your replacing it with the wrong stud.
>Does it damage the car greatly if I drive over a pothole? Just drove through a rather large one
If they are only 1.5 inches or less deep, then you're fine. Deeper than that, it depends on your speed if the impact manages to crush the tire enough to damage the belts, sidewall, or rim.
Since you didn't mention the speed, guessed depth of pothole, and guessed diameter of the pothole, and the type of tire/diameter, and the car you are using, I will assume you only hit the large pothole which had a 5 millimeter depth at 1 MPH while backing out of your driveway while driving a Ford F650 lifted so it uses 34 inch diameter wheels. So, you should have no problem. You can do that all day.
yeah i understand when the oil light comes on and i'm caning it around a corner then im starving it, what i mean is how do i prevent it?
whats the limit of corner g force before a dry sump comes into play?
driving a stock corolla but i want to take good care of it so if there's anything i need to avoid so i dont lose oil pressure i want to hear it
You could try overfilling by half a quart and see if it helps.
-Make sure your dipstick is the correct one and isn't bent.
-Check your oil pan for any dents which can reduce flow to the pick up
-Use (if you aren't already) the correct oil viscosity to ensure good oil return flow from the head. Clogged oil return passages can cause these issues as well.
should i run some of that engine detox shit through the engine for a few thousand kms or is it snake oil?
It does work but often can do more harm than good depending on the strength/product.
If your engine actually does have clogged oil passages that stuff would just knock off big chunks that end up getting stuck in the oil pump pick up screen which would be a worse situation.
I'd try something less aggressive like using a full synthetic oil for a few oil changes or some Marvel mystery oil/Seafoam like product for a few hundred kms.
Is this problem ACTUALLY happening? Or are you just putting forth some theoretical question?
>should i run some of that engine detox shit through the engine for a few thousand kms or is it snake oil?
Basically, those things are a combination of detergent and solvent. All these over the counter variations of a pseudo oil flush without the actual pressure flush are not needed unless you have a mild sludge problem.
You can also use Pennzoil Platinum ULTRA which is the platinum full synthetic oil with the extra large dose of detergent in it for cleaning engines that have that thin dark glazing on inner surfaces. Someone on the BITOG forum took pictures over a several month period to show how the dark glazing started disappearing as it cleaned the insides.
What is your dream garage?
theoretical
Oil starving when turning hasn't been a thing in cars since decades, just keep your oil at the correct level and be done with it.
Oil sumps have flaps and walls in them specifically to prevent the oil from moving too much when taking hard turns or driving on highly inclined roads.
Running detergents won't help if your oil pump is sucking up air anyway
So, being an idiot and in a bit of rush to get the car clean, I used the rough side of a sponge to get a few spots off that were being particular a pain in the butt, and accidentally took the clear coat with it.
Is there a way to fix it myself on the cheap? Or am I looking at needing to bring it to a shop and have them do it?
Some polish, a clean microfiber rag and elbow grease
Can't really tell by the picture because I'm on mobile, but seems like you only have some scratches, but if you did actually remove some flakes of clear coat then there is not much you can do besides having the thing resprayed
Thanks anons, I'll compare how far in it goes compared to the other stud that I'm relatively sure is still original.
I don't see the point in threadlocker though? It's use seems to split the community equally and the way I see it is that the manifold will reach way higher temps than the working strength of 242 loctite. (for reference it's a motorbike engine and the stud holes are not open to oil passage or any other fluids that could leak out)
Took a few better pictures I hope. There's no flakes, just seems rubbed off. It's very obviously lighter.
cdn.discordapp.com
cdn.discordapp.com
For some reason, these pictures look a lot better on my phone.
Use copper threadlocker you dumb cunt
I recently got a new-to-me car that doesn't get driven often (once-ish a week)
1) How long can a car go unused before you should consider storage prepping it?
2) When using a battery tender/trickle charger, are you supposed to disconnect the battery from the car?
JAVA DRIVE BY DO NOT CLICK
Copper grease and threadlocker are different things, one is an anti seize one is threadlocker. A combination of both doesn't exist afaik.
I didn't feel like making multiple posts, but fine. I even circled the spots.
...
i need a cheap and durable car that gets good gas mileage. trying to keep it around 4 grand or less. what should i get? right now i'm looking at honda civics and subaru foresters
Civic, Camry, Corolla, Forester, Impreza, Accord, Geo Metro or Prizm...I mean honestly $4k is a lot of room to work
my welder is broken.
Miller Aerowave TIG welder. It no longer works, as follows: it displays very high amoerage in the amp display. If you try stick welding with it, it does weld with extremely high amperage, burning the stick. There is no longer a way to change that amperage setting, as if it is stuck on this setting and no longer accepts user input.
WAT DO????
any japanese car pre 05 will be reliable
what happened in 05?
inside it looks like this m8
and no, its not in warranty
if you were trying to min max and get the best car for the money what would you pick?
Go on the miller forums and stop asking Veeky Forums
already asked there nobody answered me
Probably the Camry or Civic/Accord, I think those would be most economical. If you want an SUV, just get the Forrester and don't look back. Actually wish I owned one right now.
just a generalization but in the mid 00's cars started turning into computers on wheels
>throttle by wire
>traction control
>EBD
>plastic crappy dashboard materials
just tons more shit to go wrong
thanks
Call the customer service and ask them
>throttle by wire
>traction control
>EBD
Yeah because those things totally break down ALL the time
read the last sentence of my post
Which would make sense if the things you listed were fragile and broke down all the time, but they aren't and you are just stupid.
just saying dude, none of that stuff can be repaired
did you input that setting yourself before it stuck, or did it just randomly start displaying it?
When did Thermoplastic become a thing in engine compartments?
>I used the rough side of a sponge
You mean those scotchbrite type sponges? It's hard to tell when you don't mention actual names of products.
Cleaning of stubborn spots is typically done with a detailer spray when you don't want to re-wash the car. The spray has cleaners and solvents in it to help lift off dirt, sap, etc.
If you did use an abrasive sponge to grind off any offending material on the paint, then you might have worn thru the clear coat. To stop the paint from being oxidized faster, you'll have to apply sealant and then regularly wax the car.
The only sealant sold in stores such as wal-mart is the turtle wax ICE sealant. You may choose to apply it only over the damaged areas before re-waxing the whole car with the turtle wax ICE liquid wax or spray wax if you don't want to put much effort.
>already asked there nobody answered me
Then use the search tool there and look up past threads about the same problem.
Because the many varieties of thermoplastics (heat resistant plastics) are superior to bakelite. Before plastics, you had bakelite and ceramics used in many things such as distributor caps, seals, or to contain things protectively against liquids such as a bunch of fuses.
Yes, ceramics with rubber edges used as seals. You can laugh, but old times really are old times and should remain with the dinosaurs. Semi-forgotten and buried. I think I have some old transistors in metal TO-5 cases whose seals around the wires are ceramic. Or I may have thrown them out. TO-92 and TO-35 plastic cases supplanted them.
Does anyone else deflate tyres of cars with anime stickers on them?
Soapy water
My clutch pedal has almost no pressure anymore despite not having any fluid leaks and seems to be really sensitive, engaging without much travel.
I replaced the clutch and throwout bearing, both of which were badly worn, but still had a squishy pedal feel, so I bled the system as well. There was just a very little bit of air that might have been from the bleeding process itself, but there wasn't any change in the feel.
Should I rebuild the master and slave cylinder? There only adjustment on the pedal is for height and free play and they're both good.
yes, that should have been the first thing you did before replacing the clutch
Supercharged E46 M3 or E92 M3?
How to tell why my wipers are inop?
If I had to guess, the motor is btfo, it's been icy and it's an old car. The blades don't move at all, even after sitting in warm garage. The fluid does not squirt, either.
Just buy a new one and test it?
1) check fuse with multimeter
2) check relay by swapping in a similarly rated one
3) check switch
Only then should you buy a new motor
Yes.
I always have my valve core remover on me for this reason.
Well shit. It was 25 dollars on ebay. Oh well, I'll check the fuse and that'll probably be it, I just have an extra motor I guess.
Have you tried unplugging it, waiting 5 minutes and plugging it back in
Test drove a 2010 Ford Focus today with 40k miles, one owner. Drives great but has this dent in the front bumper from when the guy accidentally hit a stop sign. I am having an independent mechanic check it out before I fully commit, but would you guys say they are pretty reliable cars? I tend to be memed out of Fords most of the time but it handled very well. No leaks or anything. Just need a decent city commuter.
If I'm feeling foggy, can I put seafoam in my oil AND gas tank?
yes, but save oil treatment for last few hundred miles or so before oil change
CEL is on in my 2005 Focus, code pointed to a faulty fuel pressure sensor. I just replaced the sensor but the CEL is still on. Car runs fine.
How do I get the CEL off? Do I need to disconnect the battery for a while to let it reset?
>how long?
a month for the battery, three months for the oil
>are u supposed to disconnect battery?
it will charge faster and some vehicles say not to charge with terminals on as it may harmful to the ABS
Typically has to be reset by a capable obd II reader.
Oh, alright. I don't have an obd II reader but I can have someone do it next time I get an oil change. Am I alright to drive on the new sensor in the meantime?
>how to lazy fix headliner?
thumb tacks
>how do i check for an intake leak?
blow smoke or your choice or carb cleaner around the intake
>how do i massive dash hole?
try to source a used one from a junkyard
If I leave my car sitting for a week, one of the tyres lose some air. I suspect the last owner hit a curb a bent the rim a bit and air is escaping.
Is there anything I can do to stop it? Aside from driving it everyday or buying a new wheel.
do you have a kiddie pool or other tire shaped body of water?
toss that bitch in there with some PSI and see where leak is coming from, it could be the tire needs a patch
Question for anyone who has driven/drives a RHD car on LHD roads (ie USA). How easy is getting used to shifting with your left hand? I'm left handed, but shifting with my right hand comes naturally.
Hey guys I bought a used car at a Toyota stealer ship and who ever did a oil change before me over tightened the drain bolt and I don't want to strip the threads on the oil pan or round the bolt should I go bitch at the stealer ship and see what they can do or what can I do