QTDDTOT

Browse Walmart for a Kenwood unit? Not hard bro.

>buying a car that Is the epitome of "where's my hug?" And smells like butterscotch nicotine free vape juice

I didn't choose it because of it's transmission, I chose it because of it's price to condition ratio.

Shold have bought an eg civic.

>CVT
>Shifting

WAT

A CVT has no gears, why would you need to shift?

Thanks user. Went and checked the throttle cabel it was actually no longer resting in its little groved yhing so i put it back in and started the engine and it idled down fine. Drove it around and its running perfect thanks for eleviating my noob stress.

Aww, that sounds amazing - low miles, a good color, and a wagon in the best looking year of wrx. Is it a manual? Honestly I have no idea where you would even need to start. Maybe turbo work, but a replacement wrx turbo is maybe 1 or 2 hundred bucks. Was anything specified?

Some CVT's have "gears" that are just specific ratios that it switches to when you use the flappy paddles in order to give the impression of driving a manual (yes this is a real thing)

I don't really know much about it to be honest. It just has the manual mode in the stick area.

>actually bought a slush box cvt
I'm actually disgusted

Didn't have a chance to check the interior, unsure about the transmission. Nothing was specified on the note, but the front bumper seemed to be missing a noticeable amount of paint. It has moved, though, so I know it's at least in driving condition

So, they take the one "good" thing about CVTs and remove it.

Fucking brilliant.

Well thanks for the answers guys. I guess I'll just talk to the Nissan tech about it in a few days.

I didn't buy it for performance or anything. I bought it because I desperately needed a car and it was in incredibly good shape for the price they were selling it for.

They didn't remove anything you fucking retard. It just has a "manual mode" Using the vehicle in "drive" works just as you originally said.

jesus m8 just shift whenever the fuck you want, its not like it will let you do anything that will destroy the transmission or engine.

those things pretty much always shift on their own if you hit the redline and they wont let you shift down so quickly as to kill the engine

or just leave the damn thing in automode

SHOULD
HAVE
BOUGHT
A
5TH GEN
CIVIC

Yes, but it's a pointless feature which removes the "benefit" of having a CVT

Fuck buying an old car like that. I'm done with that money sink bullshit. That's what happened with the car I had before, and I put several times the car's worth in cash in trying to fix it. I'm so fucking done with that shit. Also good luck finding a 5th gen civic in good condition that hasn't been completely fucking gutted and fucked by some ricerfaggot kid.

>removes the "benefit" of having a CVT
Except it doesn't remove anything... you fucking retard.

still going to have to replace shit the moment the warranty ends. also enjoy dat depreciation.

feels good buying a used 2013 with 1 year of warrantly left. for less than half of what someone paid for it new

I think he is attempting to say that the feature "manual mode" is pointless because IT removes the benefit of having a CVT

He could have worded it a lot better though.

It's an 4th gen V6 Altima with a two year powertrain warranty and 114k miles for $3500. I think I did pretty damn good.

This, thanks.

I guess I wasn't clear.

>"manual mode in the stick area"

Just lurking here... What is the purported benefit to having a CVT? How is it any different than an automatic?

uhh smoothness and efficiency

basically they dont have gears but a belt like system that moves up and down a cone and can be any gear ratio it wants, which means it never shifts at all, and to most people it feels like a slipping auto transmission

It's supposed to keep the engine in the powerband, improve MPG, and have no shifting.

A CVT doesn't have gears; it can adjust its ratio on the fly without interrupting torque to the wheels, and hold the same RPM as your speed increases, so your engine can effectively be at max efficiency 100% of the time. Compare that to an automatic, where you have to shift every once in a while to stay close to where you want to be in the rev range.

I'm the guy with the Altima.

It doesn't really feel like a slipping auto to me. It just feels really, really fucking smooth. The RPMs just kind of get to an optimal point and hover there. I don't really know how to describe it, nor do I know much about the technical aspect of cars. It feels really nice though. Comfy.

Posted in the other thread as well without realizing there was a new one, I have a 2004 Subaru Legacy and i have to do the whole exhaust system as far as i can tell, and i dont know what i should be looking for. Are there any whole system kits, or would i have to go by individual parts. Any advice would be appreciated, im pretty much a beginner with car work.

sorry for reposting, didn't realize the other one was on autosage:

is there a best platform for cheap-ish longevity? I'm talking any engine/transmission popular enough for a big (cheap? possible?) aftermarket so you can replace parts as they die, and reliable enough so that it's not THAT often?

Also a CA fag, would it have to be smog exempt or are there any newer platforms that will be not too complicated to service yourself?

I am basically cheapfag as fuck and hate the idea of buying a new car, I want something I can work on when I need to but not too often, and will be cheaper in the long run vs buying new. I know very little of them but I'm assuming some american pushrod v8 in an exempt chassis would fit the bill, but I wish there was something a bit more fuel efficient.

steering seems to require a bit more force than usual. Already added some fluid. I just mixed in power steering fluid with what was already in there which I assume was ATF as was recommended for the car... The salesmen at NAPA said that would be OK. Should i drain the fluid and put in all steering fluid or get atf? Anything else that could be causing this?

I've noticed balder tires require more steering force than new.

My 240 was sitting for about 2 months in the cold, and the battery died.

I cleaned everything up and charged the battery and now whenever the car is on it does this.

It isn't my hazards, my brake lights flash, and when I do turn on my hazards, it's completely independent from any other sounds on my car.

Google isn't exactly helping me out, anyone know whats going on?

any corolla, if you do maintenance you wont have to do much anything aftermarket.

Holy shit I drive a corolla already, at 150k miles now and I feel like theres a countdown clock ticking on something major to go wrong. Biggest thing so far was alternator, and I think I hear the CVs when I turn full steer.

Guess I'll wait and see.

I think you'll be fine

Ok guys, pls help with manual

When stopped at the lights (short ones where I keep it in first not neutral) should I have the clutch fully out? The bite point is right at the top so I keep it about half in. Is that bad?

It is bad. unless you are shifting gears, your foot should never be on the clutch pedal unless you are shifting gears.

Yes it is fucking bad

>drive corolla
>"maintenance" includes replacing the whole suspension, the engine mounts, and a water pump

Reliability doesn't mean what people think it means

I thought he just meant engine problems. But with some patience he shouldn't have trouble finding parts for an old corolla.

Then move "FI system problems" out of the "engine problems" category, especially for all those ones toyota sold with ECUs that crack in fucking half

Ok. Do all clutches only grab in the top 25%? Why is this?

I bought a 2002 w203 c220cdi as a first car and its pretty great but either an engine mount or a transmission mount is compressed(dead)
How do I make sure its the engine or trans mount
How bad is it if I dont change it (apart from my teeth falling off)

its no big deal, they're both simular ATF just has more detergents. If that didnt fix the issue houwever go ahead and do a flush, replace with ATF thats recommended by your OEM
while its empty take out your reservoir and look down into it, it'll probably be pretty gunked, use some MAF or brake cleaner to clean out the screen in there
I mentioned this last thread but i also installed a p/s filter on the pipe that does into my reservoir. I dont know if this filter is a waste of money or not but it adds an extra mesh between the return and the pump so i dont see it as an issue

even the """"""""""""""shift"""""""""""""""""""""" layout is retarded

minor stuff desu. you'll be able to get new cvs in 20 years still unless they make old cars illegal or something

1. Look at them. Easy to tell
2. Change it before it shakes the car apart

I dont have a thing to look under the car with
Should I try and kill myself with the little lift thing

Lets say I hate myself and decide that I don't want a working heater within the cab of a vehicle.
What would you say about the possibility of relocating the heater core to a location of high air flow to provide additional cooling for dirt fucking cheap on a vehicle I plan to abuse the shit out of.

I say it's too much work, you are better off putting an additional radiator somewhere in the engine bay than going through the immense pain in the ass that is reaching your heater core to remove it.

An even faster solution is to remove the thermostat so you get a bit more coolant flow at the expense of longer time to heat up

Exhausts are split in multiple parts, those parts are, from the engine outwards: exhaust manifold, catalytic converter, central piece, muffler.
Some cars have more, some have less because two parts may be in one single piece.

You first have to know what is broken and buy that piece.
Stock parts are not sold as a kit, while aftermarket (especially performance upgrades) parts sometimes do.
If the whole exhaust is rusted to shit, you can probably save some money buying an aftermarket kit (not necessarily a performance one), keep in mind that the catalytic converter and the exhaust manifold usually last a lot longer than the rest, so make sure they are fine before buying stuff you don't need.

Would a cheap self installed kill switch count as an anti theft device for insurance purposes? Only description they give is "prevents motor from starting by interrupring fuel, starter, or ignition". Would it have to be more than a cheap switch and wires for like $10 to count?

A friend of a friend has a 06 TrailBlazer for sale

Ive been looking into getting a smaller SUV.
I dont recall hearing much, good or bad, about mid 00s TrailBlazers.
They seem to hold value on craigstlist well enough.

Does anyone have anything good or bad to say about them?

> i opened the thing that shoots your rpms up high if you open it, and it didnt close fully. Why are my rpms high
Make sure the throttle body (the thing you fucked with) is back to where it should sit. Turning the car on like someone else said and letting it run for a minute might put it back in place as well once the car gets turned off.

You should ask them, but I'm going to bet they want proof of installation with the receipt of the "authorized" mechanic that installed the Killswitch, for the same reason why they don't let you install all those black boxes by yourself.

I don't think they would just take your word for it and none of the people at the insurance office you talk with has any power to just take a look at your switch and confirm it is actually a working Killswitch.

The price doesn't matter, what matters is that they want to be sure it was installed properly and the only thing they listen to is a receipt from a mechanic or a certificate of some sort by an engineer.

But hey, ask them first, maybe you are lucky and they just take your word for it.

I have a car thats been sitting and had a completely dead battery.

I pulled the battery out and put a battery charger on it.
After a half hour decided I wanted to get a baseline of how dead it was with my volt meter.

I turned the battery charger off and disconnected it.
When I put my volt meter on it, I could see the charge going down. .1 volt every 5-10 seconds.

I put the charger back on and am going to let it charge.

Is that indicative of a dead battery, or is it a symptom of just being pulled off the charger?

symptom of just being pulled off the charger

Your battery is liking losing charge. So its bad, it may charge up and start, but it will always be draining slowly.

Thank you a bunch man, thats super helpful. Ill be able to get it up on a lift soon enough to see what is totally shot to shit and know for sure.

So I just sold my old shitbox that was rotting in my parents' yard for a year and was wondering if I need to call my assessor's office to have them remove it from my personal property, or if that will happen when the buyer presents the title to the DMV.

I am asking here first because it was five minutes past closing time at their office, so I have to wait until tomorrow regardless. I work graveyard shift so if I can avoid being awake during daylight hours to deal with Margaret at the courthouse, that would be nice.

>i've seen stretch bolts loosen
wouldn't this mean they were incorrectly torqued?

>didn't go to based matt forums
have you checked the dimmer switch?
>matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=40183

Hi Veeky Forums car scrub here

My 03 afford got a bit fucked up onthe front driver side. How much I can I expect to pay a scrapper for a new fender and bumper? Are the splashgaurds necessary to replace? Looking to do the bodywork myself for the experience and because I lack cheddar.

At my pick-n-pull its $40 for a fender and $45 for a bumper.

Inner splash guards are there for a reason.

That's a VERY local question. You could phone the courthouse to learn procedures.

Visually inspect thoroughly and wiggle anything questionable.

Gonna get a '96 Toyota Carina E 1.6 GLi as my first car, handed over to me from a family friend.
>What are some issues that I should look into to see what need repairs and what not?
>The paint doesnt look that good (it looks "muddy"? Like not shiny at all), how much would cost to paint it?

Oddly specific question.

Should I buy a used Merc E Coupe for 20k?

Opinions on Jeep MJ? I might cop a 4.0 for 1500 bucks

does turtlewax do anything at all? i waxed my truck at the carwash a week ago and there seems to be no discernible difference whatsoever as far as road dust buildup

currently thinking about buying pic related. the guy is asking $3500 (he said its negotiable) and it has 47k miles. i feel like its a steal if i can get it for $2800-$3000. anyone have experience with sebrings?

It's a Nissan 240sx, but my buddy has a 240 Volvo and I don't think he knows about this site

Mechanic I frequent says timing is slightly off.

His reasoning was how the car starts whenever it wants; it takes a second or fires up instantly. The idle starts very high, slightly above two thousand revs, but goes down to one thousand over time as it warms up. Sometimes, usually when it's extremely cold, it surges horribly.

It hasn't stalled when idling or driving at speeds and still has plenty of power, so I'm not sure what to think.

>pic related

Yeah the courthouse was closed already but I didn't know if it would be pretty general. I do reside in Arkansas which has some pretty fucky property laws, so I will call them tomorrow.

They seem to have a horrible reputation, most often with the engines sludging up.

niggas gonna nig

munnypit

he's not wrong, you know
>starts above 2k RPMs
>goes to 1k after warming up
that's too high, it should be like 800 or 850 at idle
above 2k is too high as well, it should be like 1.5-1.7k
granted, the tach in older vehicles usually reads high but something is wrong
try cleaning the IAC
>crxcommunity.com/viewtopic.php?t=1354

>consumeraffairs.com

i wouldnt go off of that site 2bh. every single car has a shit rating on there.

I'm assuming this works the same in all GM cars so I hope I'll find someone that can answer my question here.

As of lately whenever I push my car a bit I occasionally get a blinking "service engine soon" light. It's not the CEL so I guess that's good but after looking over some fora it's all in the line of "miss fires" and this and that. It runs fine though. I tried reading out the code but nothing is showing.

Maybe some background info:
I recently bought a 2001 Firebird with the 3.8 V6. The original engine blew up on me but I had the same engine put in with about 90k-ish miles on it.

Three weeks ago my temp gauge went out, causing the radiator to blow harder than it should. Two days after that the headlight motor went out. I had my mechanic check it out and he said I have some electrical problems going on and he doesn't fix those. Fair enough, so I moved on with my life and let it linger for a bit.

Now would this be anything serious or can it be traced back to the electrical issue? I'll be putting 600 to 700ish miles a week on it for the next two weeks and I don't want to destroy another engine.

>going to do my first engine swap.
>Swapping 2E carbed engine from 1.3 XL corolla to 4EFTE engine from starlet.
>pretty much share same engine mounts,
>not sure how to fit the starlet tranny on a corolla sedan.
>engine loom I will take partially out of a starlet, the rest I will make myself.
>may have a bad ECU along the line too.
>Fuel pump may be a problem, don't know if I get it along with 4EFTE I buy with gearbox and brake system.

I was thinking of doing this solo, but I may organize a barbecue and get a few extra hands to help me with dismounting hood and few shit here and there.
How fucked am I?

>tfw you crash the star car

Just started driving stick

Is it bad to start pressing on the accelerator when the clutch is completely depressed? Lots of videos seem to say you need to bring it to the biting point before you give it gas but I can't seem to shift smoothly or get moving from a stop that way

Wat kar?

Are lug nuts universal?
When I got my new tires on the shop had to break the wheel locks off because the fucking previous owner didn't give them when he sold the car. So now all my wheels are short a lug nut.

Can I just go to any auto store and buy more?

Aerocatch or regular hoodpins?

1991 Nissan D21 Pickup

What's the go-to entry-level luxury car that's a little sporty and doesn't make me look like an old person?

Got an 02 alero. 3400 series. Having cooling system issues. Made a T connection like shown here and fixed it for about a week. route66hotrodhigh.com/FriggingHeat.html

More confused than ever about cooling system. Past week it has performed ok, goes up and down but never gets very much over normal range and is usually runnin at decent temp. Have to add water now and again. Dropping friend off today, super overheats, pull over on highway, extreme sufur smell. Open resivour cap, coolant rockets out. Takes nearly 1.5 gallons of coolant and let it cool off. Drop friend off, start driving home, car performs best it has since i bought it, heat is boiling like fire hot i had to open windows, did this whole ride from holland to GR. Until i get on scurve in mid grand rapids 96, heat instantly turns cold, temp rockets up to red zone higher than ive ever seen. Getting off exit im turning off car in between stops to cool it off. Make left turn to finally get off exit and temp goes down and heat blows hot again