What characteristics make a reliable car in general?

If I travel to the USA, does that make me retarded, just because the local population is?
Actually yeah, you have a good point...

reminder that there is nothing inherently wrong with racism, especially when it is grounded in fact

>its a basement dwellers try to justify being stupid segment

lmao

don't derail the thread
I'm learning!

thanks brothers

>diesel vs gas
naturaly aspirated Diesel
>auto vs manual
manual
>more volume in the cylinders?
Usually a lower amount of cylinders means less parts to fail.
>the year before certain regulations?
Get one with ot a particle filter and mechanical injection.

A low average piston speed is good, but even S2000s last forever.

I know the boss of a german electrical cmpany, the build stuff in chna and in germany.
They rate the chinese stuff for 1/3 the voltage and amps for a reason and sell it ONLY to the chinese.

Honda hasn't had impeccable vreliability in over 20 years , end this meme

Two words:
Volvo Turbo Brick.

Strong chassis and parts and a under stressed engine. It's easier to get a pickup truck to 1 million miles than a car because they're built stronger. A million miles is nothing for a semi tractor.

A car's reliability is proportional to the owner's competence.

However, that's not to say that some cars are more reliable than others.

My rule of thumb is anything Japanese ~2005 and below will tend to be more hardy than the newer gens. Take for example Nissan, after 2003 or so everything is euro French unreliable garbage. Honda and Toyota vehicles have also gone down in quality as of recent, favoring gadgets and techy shit like blind spot monitoring over reliability.

Many motor manufacturers found that most people (at least in the US) lease vehicles or buy one and toss it a couple years after their loan is paid off. It is more cost effective to design and build a vehicle to last 5 years and then be tossed than it is to design a beefy one. If people toss them after 5 years, what's the point of making them reliable, you know what I mean?

If you want reliability, look at econoboxes. Take the V6 Camry, for example. It's got a hefty V6 and they run forever. Why? It was designed for A to B, and not "spirited driving". Same thing with stock Civics.

You want reliable? Buy a vehicle that is well known to hit over 200,000 with just basic maintenance.

However, if you don't take care of basic maintenance, even the most reliable car will shit on you.

OM 615
OM616
OM617
OM621

Are even more relieable.

>mfw peugeot
>mfw stock toyota engine
>mfw 15,2m/s average piston speed
>mfw naturaly aspirated
>mfw forged internals
>mfw rated for 15W40 mineral oil but use better suggested 5W30
>mfw change oil early
>mfw drive highway only

How long will it last Veeky Forums?

>A low average piston speed is good, but even S2000s last forever.
Isn't the S2000 a pretty short stroke, meaning the piston speed stays pretty low even when revving high?

It has the second highest piston speed of every production vehicle ever build.
Only one VAG engine has a higher piston speed.

It has 25m/s average piston speed.
That is considered insane for a stock engine.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_F20C_engine

>stock toyota engine
>NA
>forged internals
>using 5w30 instead of 15w40 mineral oil

You'll be fine for the next 300,000. The chassis is probably gonna fall apart before the engine blows. Use rotella T6 though.

The chassis has no rust at all at the moment (almost 90.000km)
Only the exaust system (20€) rusts.

It makes no difference since you already are dumb as fuck

P sure that's just average speed at max RPM though. It doesn't spend 100% of its time at high RPM. It can cruise around at 2k rpm like any other I4.

Of course this is at rpm mx, but a s2000 cruises way over 2000rpm on the highway and usually gets the shit reved out of it regulary.

so does my camry

S2Ks rev like 4000rpm while cruising, your camry doesn´t do that.

>turbo
>on anything but a diesel

It cruises at about 3k rpm.

Also my bikes cruise at about 6k rpm and are still super reliable.

>It cruises at about 3k rpm.
Depending on your speed.
>Also my bikes cruise at about 6k rpm and are still super reliable.
Your bikes won´t last over 300.000km without a engine overhaul and have a much lower stroke than the S2000.
The stroke on the F20C engine was 84mm and 90,7mm on the F22C.

>Volvo 240T
>not best midsize

I want to drive that

>diesel vs gas
diesel
>auto vs manual
manual, if you shift correctly then only the clutch could wear out. autos fail all the time
>more volume in the cylinders?
something that cruises on low rpms which means less wear
>the year before certain regulations?
it only makes things simpler if it comes before regulations

also timing gears outlast the engine. timing chains come second but are way better reliability wise than a belt. pushrod engines seem to last a long time due to their low rpm range and mechanical simplicity but there are exceptions. Its all about what gives the least amount of wear to engine internals and diesels do this quite well because of low redlines and low cruising rpm's so they aren't stressed engines.

>Your bikes won´t last over 300.000km without a engine overhaul
sure they can. If not crashed, sport bike engines last practically forever.
youtube.com/watch?v=gIHz-U_73BE&t=583s
Also note this is miles, not KM

It has only 42,5mm of stroke, so the average piston speed is pretty low, even at higher rpm.
A S2000 has 2 times the stroke and therefore 2x the average piston speed at the same rpm.
A CBR reving 6000rpm is therefore about as stressed as a F20C reving 3000rpm.

got cool tips thx again :)

The piston isn't the only moving part in an engine.

I read a story of a Chevy Volt that was used as a taxi with 300,000 miles and no degradation of battery. 100,000 miles were on battery and electric motor alone, with the other 200,000 miles being on the battery/motor and engine combined. The Chevy Volt operates primarily as a serial hybrid while using gas, so technically all 300,000 miles were on the battery and electric motor.

That's pretty amazing, considering the Leaf has had some battery issues.

Hybrids can be very reliable indeed, hence Priuses are so often used as fleet cars now.

What said. Also, even for the pistons it's not that simple; at 2x the rpm, the piston is changing directions 2x as fast, and the conrod is enduring 2x the explosions, so it's enduring many more load cycles.

What years of Benz are good/fun/reliable?

Hybrid drivelines are definitely good for the combustion engine, since they save the wear of moving the car from a stop.

Really, I'd think that a hybrid setup lowers the torque requirements and general stress of the combustion engine significantly. With the electric motor handling things at the low end, the engine only needs to make torque to ovrecome air drag at high speeds.

A range extender only needs to make aa much power as you use on average, rather than peak, so they are designed to run at peak torque RPM all the time where they are most efficient, rather than peak power RPM where you would be if you drive spirited in a regular car. It also doesn't vary RPM much, if at all.

Diesels are lower RPM, so they generally have less bearing wear and lower chance of critical failure if they're run out of oil or the like.

Automatics can typically hold more maximum power than manuals before grenading, but they wear out sooner and have more things that can go wrong.

Displacement doesn't meaningfully affect longevity, but higher displacement engines will typically make the same amount of power as lower displacement engines at lower RPM, so see point #1.

I wouldn't say there's really a difference in longevity between a 90s car and a 10s car, but the 90s car would probably be cheaper to get parts for and the 10s car would probably have less wear and tear. Typically, TCO will be lowest for a car ~20 years old, especially if you do your own maintenance.

Friendly reminder that for the entire time that your car is below 6800 RPM, you would have been better off with an NC Miata. The Miata is stiffer, lighter, makes more power at any given RPM below 6800, has more usable storage space (slightly smaller trunk but much larger opening and a better shape), gets better fuel economy, has more aftermarket (90+% parts interchange with the Ford Duratec and Ecoboost I4s, and all sorts of suspension options), etc, etc.

Literally the only thing the S2000 has going for it is the 9000 RPM rev limiter. If you're not redlining it on your way to the grocery store, you bought the wrong car.

N/A diesels from MB were notoriously underpowered, and even in 80s they were unsafe to drive because of their shit acceleration

t-thanks, we'll see what we can do, desu

>Diesels are lower RPM, so they generally have less bearing wear and lower chance of critical failure
that's what every larger diesel engine has 20lbs flywheel ?

> if they're run out of oil or the like.
"(...) i wanna run away (...)"

>that's what every larger diesel engine has 20lbs flywheel ?
Not sure how flywheel weight is supposed to affect engine speed or bearing wear.
>"(...) i wanna run away (...)"
By "out of", I mean "low on". If you've got a bike engine running at 16,000 RPM, I'd strongly recommend checking your oil level every time you start it up. If you're running a 2000 RPM diesel, it's much less critical. Obviously it's not an ideal situation to oil starve your engine, but it's the difference between significantly increased bearing wear and shitting a piston out through the side of the block.

Diesel
Auto
Smaller cylinder bore and stroke.
Anything pretty much before 2010 CPU takeover.

You mixed up some numbers, the F20C engages VTEC at 6250 rpm and maxes its power between 6250rpm and 9000rpm, your NC miata doesn´t even rev that high.

You only have to hit the accelerator and rev the engine a bit to get on the highway, not much of a deal if you know how to drive.

The miata makes more power even after VTEC engagement, right up until the miata redlines.

...and the F20C hits its powerband when the miata can´t even reach the rpm.
If you want power, you rev your engine.

If we debate low end torque a Lanz Bulldog would be supririor to anything else, it has a redline of 500rpm and is a 10L single cylinder 2-stroke glow head diesel.

The engine in the first generation Volt varies in RPM depending on how much energy is being drawn from the battery. If the usage becomes high, like when accelerating with medium to heavy force, the engine couples directly to the wheels (in conjunction with replenishing the battery) for a few seconds until the battery has reached a sufficient level of charge, at which point it decouples and resumes serial hybrid operation. GM states the second generation Volt utilizes parallel hybrid operation more often than the first generation Volt because it's more efficient.

That's why I said the Miata is the better car any time you're under 6800 RPM and not that it's the better car all the time. The Miata does everything better than the S2000 except for 6800-9000, which counts for a lot. I mean, it's like saying that a CRT is better than an LCD in every possible way except size and weight (which is also true). I don't own a CRT, and I'm guessing you don't either. That said, if you're short shifting your car at 6500 RPM and never let it loose, there's no point in buying an S2000 over a Miata.