/classic car general/ - /ccg/

>Whatever you do, ignore the rust belt

No, automagic.

where in particular though, like how

Recently fully restored

>whats your excuse, gents?
Listen to the song stickshifts and safety belts by cake. Literally that.

Craigslist.

>going for a Prometheus's ship type of deal?
Eventually that's what's going to happen.
It was a 6 cylinder automatic base car so i don't feel bad about it.

I'd rather not yet considering i still don't have a job. I might as well put the engine i want in there and only have to do it once as well.
Basically all i've done is bought a chinese carb and threw it on there so ofc it will have problems.

That's fair enough. Sounds like the chink carb isn't worth a shit.

I'm so fucking done with my motorcycles carbs.

>whats your excuse, gents?
Column shifter

>I'm so fucking done with my motorcycles carbs.
fuck dat shit, that's when i pay someone to work on it.

To do that would be more than the bike's worth. I'm going to tear into them again today and hope for the best. Also waiting for the clutch mc so I can rebuild that.

Very nice, what year?

Did you get the fucking pilot needles out and clean the idle circuits?

Currently trying to decide on suspension compnents for my shitbox.

Can't decide on McGaughy, Belltech or DJM for spindles/springs/c-notch kit.

No I'm doing that today. Now I've learned. That's most likely it just because it runs great past like 4k rpm. Struggles below that and leans out

what year is the bike?

Gonna go look at this 71 Riviera here in a bit. What's Veeky Forums's opinion on a 75-78 datsun 280z 2+2? The guy mentioned selling it too, and I might try to get a package deal if they're in ok shape. Pic is of the riv, and the 280.

might be cool if you drop a 552 BBF in it.

>Craigslist is legit
>I also like auto trader and ebay
>Word on the street is you might get a better deal on craigslsit though....

It already has a 455 Buick in it, but I think I'm gonna put a turbocharged 5.3 LS in it.

i meant the datsun.

If those wheels are 15" and have the same bolt pattern I'd love to have a pair, or even one. I just need one.

I'm missing the other one.

Who is that?

Hey user, cool progress on the lincoln. Out of curiosity,what is your budget and timeline for it? I'd like to get a car in mediocre condition and work on it, but I have no idea of the budget and time constraints I have.

2+2 are garbage desu senpai. Heavy af and the motor feels anemic and sluggish. Good to cop if it has a good long block, starter, intake manifold, etc.

Let me know about the wire wheels. I want to find a set of 15s with a decent offset.

I'm going for as cheap as possible. I bought it for the 9" disc brake rear end and 460 for my maverick, but I didn't want to scrap the lincoln afterwards. That's why I'm going to use chunks of crash dented hood from my brother's caprice to patch the roof. I'm going to buy a cheap 305 and 700r4 for it, and put the 8.8" rear end from the maverick in there, Both rear ends only have a very small track difference so they should bolt up fine.

I also don't really have a timeline, because I have three other projects going on, My galaxie, my maverick, and my honda goldwing...

I finally defeated the hubcap jew! It turns out that when Excalibur contracted Dayton to make the hubcaps for them in the 1970s; they literally took a Chevrolet wire wheel and slapped an Excalibur decal over the stamping that said "Chevrolet" so they didn't have to create a separate product. As such, I just bought a replacement set of FACTORY CORRECT hubcaps for $50.00

ebay.com/itm/322420753355

Do you like Phyllis Diller?

I'm indifferent; why do you ask?

Do '80s cars count?

>decide to adjust idle mixture screws so car doesn't sound like a warzone
>turn screws out
>won't stay running more than 3 seconds
but it sounded healthier
>go out to figure out why it won't stay running
>intake around carb is moist
>fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuck
>fuel dripping out of carb
>chink clows used non-gas resistant teflon tape
>try to wrench it out
>brass fuel fitting literally snaps in half, the threads are stuck inside
>finally manage to get the fucked threads out
Chinese remanufactured carbs, not even once.

1972, it's a Jap import since RHD market and shit

280Zs are alright, you'll want to change the bumpers since those things are stupid heavy and maybe the FI depending on condition.

280ZXs are the ones to avoid, overweight boulevard cruisers with ruined looks. The 280Z itself is still the same S30 body as the 240Z, but with thicker steel, so stronger and more rust resistant body. Does mean it's heavier, but they're still fun

'85

Of course

Tbh I would love to have a 300zx z31 as a beater. I think the lines are great and it's the cheapest way to get a rwd manual

>no edelbrock 4BBL conversion

It's like you're not cool enough or something.

That's what I'm doing to mine.

They're alright, way too many in auto though, even down here in NZ. Unfortunately they also lost the fantastic I6s other than in the Japan only 300ZR

Lol there's literally no room, is just a v twin

and i guess this is sort of ccg related, The ignition system was beyond fucked on this bike so I took the old points distributor from my galaxie's 390 and made it fit on my goldwing.

It works and the bike fucking runs. I don't care how retarded it looks.

Pic related.

guys, what's your checklist for potentially buying a classic car? I know to look for the big things like rust, but what else do you consider?

Vg30 isn't great but it's a stout motor and there's parts like literally everywhere. How hard would a vg30dett swap be?

I've owned all except z32 and beyond. 280zx is also fine and the FI system is more refined than the "mechanical" injection of the 280z. I love the 240z the most, obviously, but they are getting harder and harder to find for a reasonable price.

That's pure Kek. I love that first gen wing. There's a reason it was the "King" of the ujm. Such a badass, big bike.

Rust, make sure when checking it out you do a start from stone cold, run it through the gears and do some hard braking. Also, if you can, get under it and look at all the rubber. See if the shocks are leaking oil, brake pad health, and make sure that all the lights and electric is working.

see if the motor runs and if it sounds healthy. if it does run make sure the trans shits decently enough. Check the floor pans for rust, check the little things like lights(dash lights as well), blinkers.. etc. The little things start to add up quick.

Check the fluids, make sure the oil is oil and not a milkshake. Check to make sure the coolant isn't brown or anything, Smell both the motor and transmission fluid to make sure it's not burnt.

pass on any cars with a disassembled motor unless you planned on rebuilding it anyway / swapping it. if someone took it apart it usually means there was something wrong with it and the seller doesn't want to disclose that info.

Aye, was looking at a 280Z before as a potential project. FI is a bloody bird's nest there. Would much rather have the traditional SU style carbs.

280ZX would be a neat GT car, as would many of the later Z cars, but they lost a lot of the light sporty feel sadly, not to mention the styling went downhill (or maybe I'm just a 70s boomer at heart lol)

I genuinely don't want a single z made after z32 other than a nismo 350z but even then, not really

Thanks guys, much appreciated. Let me ask you this, would you rather buy a car that's a rolling chassis but the body and frame are in tip top shape? Or a whole car (i.e. engine & tranny) but needs body work (e.g. rust holes on body). So I guess that'd boil down to if you had to choose a part of the car to work/spend money on, what would it be?

That's true, I'm just obsessed with the sound of a nice I6 coupled with a stainless exhaust system...

Haven't looked into it too much, but I believe they're fairly similar. Probably need some bodywork mods to fit though

Depends on the car. You'd kill yourself in frustration getting mint body parts for a 69 Torino fastback, yet you can literally build a new 69 mustang from a catalogue.

If the engine and tranny are in pristine condition and wouldn't require ANY work in the foreseeable future besides basic maintenance, I'd probably go with that. I really don't mind body work at all, It's something i can do at home with my welder, and some bondo. Building engines and transmissions on the other hand gets damn expensive damn quick.

300zr wasn't an I6 those came with the vg30de, the 200zr was I6 with the rb20.

Best sounding i6 I've ever heard was a c10 skyline with a l28 bored out to 3.1l with your mikunis, a wicked cam and a straight through exhaust with equal length spaghetti headers. My god, I nutted when he started it up.

In theory, mechanicals are a lot less of a pain to deal with. Realistically, you probably want to drive the car, not spend half a year sourcing bits and installing, plus if anyone sells you a rust free classic, chances are he also has a bridge to sell

>Blog about electrical gremlins
lol where to begin...

The wipers randomly turn on by themselves when the relay is in place. They stay off when relay is removed, but then the intermittent setting doesn't work. No change after replacing relay.

The passenger side window switch works on the drivers door but not on the passengers door.

The turn signals sometimes self-cancel after completing a turn, but usually don't.

The fuel gauge is stuck on E, the oil pressure guage is usually pegged to the max, but sometimes reads normally, and the speedometer needle swings wildly below 40 mph.

The backlighting for the speedometer doesn't work so I don't know how fast I'm going at night. One time I hit a bump and it turned on, but it hasn't worked since.

Some of the speakers occasionally decide not to work and when they do the volume fluctuates.

The rear defroster doesn't work

When the A/C is turned on you can hear the blower running, but no air comes out of any of the vents. Air blows fine when the heater is on.

Honestly I'm just glad the car starts and drives as well as it does. I plan on repairing most of these issues, but I consider them to be pretty minor at this point.

Oh shit you're right, that's the one I was thinking of

as long as the body is structurally sound bodywork is easy, i stay away from anything that needs mounts replaced

Yeah those motors are half the reason why I want a S30. Done right, they're perfect. Had the chance to drive a 260 late last year, man the engine just sung and have that fantastic lift off rumble. Regret not buying that car so much now

Well, they're everywhere. I'd like one, but I'd rather have something like a big six BMW e28. Still, huge resurrect for the s30, badass platform and cool cars.

Maybe in the US, certainly not over here. I wish they were everywhere...

I was thinking of getting a nice E30 with a I6 for some fun on the cheap, but I'm a bit of a dreamer with carbs and classic dials and interiors from the 70s haha

Depends on what you're looking for and what you want to do with it. Tell me what you want to do with your classic and I'll tailor a list to that.

She was a very large proponent of the Excalibur vehicles, owned four of them.

Forgot link.

youtu.be/05i0_r3ZaiQ

Can you imagine if the 300zr came with the rb30 instead of the vg, would be a beast.

Yeah; I knew that. Funny she should mention Schwarzenegger, as he owns one, too.

>tfw love the styling of the cars but hate convertibles
>never available in hard top

>Car cruise/show next weekend
>Too lazy to clean up my engine bay

>hating convertibles
Too ugly bro?

Convertibles are the best

Original carbs can be a pain unless you live in stable climate or just really like tuning them. The FI system is actually pretty great as far as 80s cars go. Yeah with the 280zx it got even longer but I still like the way the look. I don't like the 300zx at all comparatively. It just doesn't feel like a Z car to me. Every car after 280zx should have been called something different. They should have just stuck to the straight 6 rwd and light as possible formula. Would have been like some of the BMWs but not as overly complicated etc.

Hmm I've been running a car with twin SUs throughout the year and they seem to function well, mind you it is very mild here in terms of changes in climate. In general SUs tend to be easily tuned and do a pretty good job of staying in tune though.

Yeah they screwed up when they went for the luxury market, but it's understandable. The American market wanted it, and that drowned out everyone else. They did better doing luxury GT cars than they probably would have in purebred sports cars desu

Just got back from looking at the Riviera and 280z.The 71 Riviera has rusted out floor, back window is rusted out, trunk rusted out, and fenders are rusted at the bottom. Windshield is cracked too.
Datsun is in better shape but fenders are rusted at the bottom and rockers are rusted. It a 5 speed and has an extra 5 speed trans to to with it. Supposedly had engine rebuilt 6k miles ago but has sat for several years.
Guy wants $1600 for both. With as much rust as there is on the Riviera, I can only use the roof, front and back bumpers, and front grill to all use on my 72 Riviera. I still have to get floor pans for mine.
I could part out the 71 and the 280, and probably get my money back, but I just don't know if its worth my time.
I know the 5 speeds in the 280's are supposedly valuable, but not sure if they're good.
What's /ccg/'s opinion?

Any pictures of the rust on the 280?

FYI, 5 speed was an option on American spec 280s, but it's not a hard job to find and fit a rebuilt 5 speed. Newer Nissan boxes also fit

They have removable hardtops. This is mine with the hardtop on and all the side curtains in.

Congrats drac

I didn't take any pictures. I didn't lift the carpet to look at the floors but with the way the rockers were rusted and fenders were rusty, I assume the floor is rusty too. The interior was all there and intact, but was moldy/mildew. Much better shape than the Riviera, but still not great.

Hmm sounds like it'll be a fairly lengthy restoration. Sounds OK for the price, but unless you really want one or enjoy a lot of welding, I'd say walk away

>Rust
>body damages
>trim
>glass

Body damages like scrapes and minor dents don't seem like much but they add up quickly. It's amazing how many unrestored classic cars have some sort of damage on almost every panel. With trim you want to make sure it's all there and in good shape even if you've got to lay out and count each piece. Unless it's something ridiculously popular like a Mustang, trim is frequently unavailable short of buying another car for parts. Same with glass. Particularly side and rear glass.

>flat glass is hard to find
Based retardbro

>walk out one day
>see this

also bump.

Those wheels are absolutely haram

I don't mind em. You can't beat the price of free.

Buy some black D Windows my dude. Shit would be cheeky

I had to sell her.

I miss her.

How do you get the back wheels off?

Take the fender skirt off

...

Wood has no place in an automobile.

:(

why did you sell?