Diagnostics General

100% textbook case of bad blower resistor/transistor

Yeah I pulled it earlier and all three coils were fried

1997 mercury mountaineer.

There is an "ocean" like noise that comes from the driver side (sounds like from the wheel well area) taking a right turn too sharp, or if turning at all while on a hill.

The noise is similar to putting a conch to your ear or a whale trying to get some action.

Could the tire possibly be rubbing against something faintly when you turn?

Don't think so, just checked the inside wall. Could it be something in the wheel like a bearing?

Hmm yeah I'd get a friend to turn the wheel and have you inspect for any contact points because I can't think of anything else. Does this happen at all speeds?

1999 nissan pathfinder.
Vehicle won't start. Both the starter and alternator have been replaced and all it does is click when I try to crank it over. Not sure what might be causing it at this point, but I know it's not the battery, as I had it tested the other day.

It happens very seldom at higher speeds unless if I'm going straight, but if I take a curve fast it does happen, less so than a hard 60° at lower speeds though.

But yeah I'll definitely try that, thanks

Could be a wire connecting them, aka the starter and battery nay have a bad connection or serious kink between them

That's what I was thinking but I've been too busy with classes and work to look into it lately. Any possible solutions without having to take it to a shop?

This happened to a friend of mine, check your terminals for corrosion I'd make sure there is an extremely good connection because what can cause a starter to click is it isn't receiving enough voltage and therefore won't engage.

Door hinges are worn out. With the door open some get both hands under the bottom of the door at the rear and lift. Fucker is heavy so get your back into it. You'll feel the door clunk as you're lifting up and again going down as you release. That confirms the free play in the hinges and as previously noted it's in the hinge pins. There are no bushings however, it's straight steel-on-steel and the intended service procedure is to replace worn hinges. If you want to try one of the repair kits that's up to you but bear in mind you'll have to drill the holes oversize for the repair bushing and it has to be straight and centered through a hole that's ovalized by wear. Not the easiest thing to do by hand so you'd want a drill press and preferably a jig to hold the hinge parts while drilling.

Anyone know why my automatic I6 4.0L Jeep engine might be causing EXTREME steering wheel shake at 1,000 to 2,000 RPM?

mine is all cosmetic. I thought when I bought it that it wouldn't bother me but the more I wash my car the more it annoys me lol

I'm going to fucking neck myself
2009 Elantra brake lights not working.
I already know its not the bulbs since i cant even get out of park.
Checked fuses, fine.
Getting proper voltage at switch.
Check switch, no continuity.
Change switch, still doesn't work.
Check voltage coming out of the switch, seems to be fine, but it isn't 12.
These fucking lights just dont want to come on

First thing I'd do is get an alignment done probably, if that doesn't fix it I'd inspect power steering.

Check connection in bulb sockets and while your at it if you got a spare bulb just try it out, you might surprise yourself.

Is this sitting still and revving the engine or when moving?

If it's when you're moving then look into "death wobble". Plenty of discussion out there but it mostly seems to come down to tire balance and suspension wear coupled together.

1998 crv. There is a clunking noise from the left front when the suspension unloads.
I've replaced (on boths sides):
Sway bar links
Upper A arm and ball joint
Lower ball joint
Axle

I don't feel anything in the steering wheel when it clunks so I'm inclined to think it's not the tie rod ends or anything in the steering rack.
I've sprayed WD40 on every rubber bushing I can see in case it's just something 'creaking' against the rubber.
Any suggestions??
Could it be something in the shock tube?
Pic unrelated
Thanks all.

1989 Toyota Corolla GTS
Starts some time, And doesn't other time, Pretty sure its a battery.
Front Brake discs are at like 7%

Terminals are old, but no corrosion as far as I'm able to see. Wouldn't hurt to replace them though. Will look into it, thanks.

No problem

I'd start with inspecting all possible points where the suspension flexes and look for points where it could stick. There could possibly be something to the shock tube theory if you've tried everything else.

94 integra ls here,hard to get into 5th,gotta slam it in to 5th slightly let off the clutch untill it grabs..I know it's better to find a new tranny,but what's the issue and how to fix....

>try to start car
>revs up jumps to 2000 then drops below 500 and stalls, several lights flicker a bit, slight shake but not terrible
>try again
>same, but then time hit gas while doing it
>have to keep foot on gas to keep it 1000 or higher while shifting to keep it going
>take foot off gas for a second to shift from reverse to drive
>ded
>manage to get to drive and pull up to stop sign
>ded
It doesnt do it all the time either only sometimes so its hard to say exactly when it may or may not do this on any single day. Today it didnt want to run for shit this morning but this afternoon it was fine. I cleaned the MAF and throttle body today and the car wouldnt start at all but after a bit it managed to get going. I think it was just because i didnt let the MAF cleaner evaporate all the the way before starting it that it wouldn't start though. Didnt die once while driving it afterward. However because I dont know WHEN it will die, then i dont know if I fixed it or not.
Another user recommended trying to Idle Control Valve check by unplugging it, One said to check the coolant sensor.
Recent work includes as follows
(done before the dieing became an issue)
>timing belt and balance belt replacement (balance belt had snapped)
>motor mounts all replaced
>valve gasket replacement
>spark plug and spark plug boots
(done after it started to die)
>serp belt
>power steering pump replacement, with fluid flush and added a filter to power steering
>MAF and throttle body cleaning, new air filter
>only code being thrown is p0420, have not been able to check codes while dieing however
I also was told theres an intake leak causing my car to run lean, would that be a possible cause?
need to figure out which hose to blow smoke into for this though, possible one connected just before throttle body but just after the MAF

2000 Subaru Legacy, whistle/odd sound at 4k RPM, not an exhaust note, I'm thinking small vacuum leak?

Could be wheel bearing

This, probably high resistance between battery and starter, or solenoid contacts are gone.

Check for anything coming loose
Especially the shock

93 Camaro
Lt1 6speed m29
Feels slow on the bottom end
New opti wires plugs and coil
Like I have to rev the thing to around 3k before it starts to move, friend said engine was just tired but no idea wtf thats supposed to mean
Idles at 20in/hg which is normal according to haynes
Has good consistent compression in all cylinders
New o2's

If I floor it it backfires between shifts
Running rich?

>have to rev the thing to around 3k before it starts to move
sounds like your clutch disc is shot, friend

Any relays user? Some cars run weird shit together. Like dash lights/cig lighter and brakes in 1 relay so if it goes out everything goes

Doesnt slip though
Could it still be bad? I would be fine with replacing it of thats the problem

I phrased that wrong
It drives ok but it seems underpowered for what it is
If I wot it I can do a 0-60 in like 5 seconds but its the regular around town driving where it feels sluggish

2007 Audi A6 allroad 2.7TDI autotragic. Car works fine except for when changing gears, the RPM needle is jumping like 100 rpm up and down for 2-3 seconds. I dont feel the car shaking or anything, i just see the rpm being unsteady.
RPM stays steady when accelerating and staying idle. Any help appreciated!

If I am understanding you correctly
It revs between gear shifts at part throttle
That is a transmission slip
A part throttle slip in an automatic is usually low fluid

14 year old ACV30 Camry

Idles EXTREMELY low (~500 RPM) even when cold
Rough idle
Something is also draining the battery even when the engine is shut off. It got so bad that now the thing won't even turn the starter.

Everything else about it has still held up, though.

Yes, I guess you could say it revs a little just after changing gears. I just thought something like low fluid in the transmission would come up as a warning light or check engine light?

If it has a dipstick check it while its running and warm in park and if needed fill with factory spec fluid then find leak
Computers arent always spot on
It might just up the line pressure and then you would have harder shifts
Or it wont notice it and you get a slip
Either way it's easier to just check it

>have to chase a vacuum leak

Make sure the connections to the starter motor are tight too.

could it be a bad alternator not properly charging your battery while putting the engine under load even at idle?

02 malibu
Occasionally shuts off while turning, generally a right turn. Doesn't happen very often so hard to replicate

can you be more specific? does it bog down and THEN shut off, or is it just suddenly going dead?

1: If it's just instantly to 0 rpm, Malibus of that generation are notorious for heat, and crank position sensor could be affected, ECU reads CPS not turning, cuts engine.

2: If it struggles/bogs down beforehand, power steering pump might be seizing.

If you haven't already then look up how to read the stored code, and then tell us the code please.

Now we have to suspect if the blower motor is pulling a lot of current, enough to blow resistors.

I keep getting the p0507 code after i cleaned the throttle body on my g35 ive done the throttle idle relearn process, and it works for a bit, but after a while the CEL comes back on, any fixes for this?

What is the year/make/model, user? If it has an EGR then it might be stuck open replicating a vacuum leak.

Might be worth trying stuff out with the switch connected but not placed on the pedal to make sure that it's not stuck closed. Possible sanity check that you're getting continuity from the cable to the front of the connector. I always get confused about brake switches, but switches can either be normally open or normally closed.

Unregulated air leaving/entering after MAF could be a problem. You could also have something that the computer controls that affects air not doing anything. Idle Air Control Valve, EGR can also have an effect, or clogged passages for those and those tend to not throw codes. If you recently changed the battery or had to jump it, the MAF can "forget" how to keep idle but eventually recalibrates itself. Saw a car that had a loose wire to MAF, but that usually throws a code.

Start looking into vacuum leaks. Stop open EGR and PCV valves can also replicate vacuum leaks too.

stuck open*

2000 Celica GTS, every time the A/C is on, the interior has this whistling noise that comes on at random. Any suggestions?

Its the first. I'll check it out, thanks

Car shakes at 70-80mph. Other than that it rides smooth as fuck. Wheel balance?

I have a Volvo 940 turbo that makes a wierd buzzing/rattling sound when the engine is running at 1500 rpm. Anything higher or lower than that and the noise goes away. It's definitely coming from under the hood, my guess is it has to do with the valvetrain. Any volvoanons out there who might know what's up?

Probably, also check your suspension bushings and u joints if you have a rwd

Would you say the noise sounds more like a teakettle boiling or the wind howling? If it's the first one, it might be your blower motor, the bearings get squeaky over time

Seconded

This happened to my truck, Id check fuel pressure. You can get the good 0-60 because your filter is semi bypassed at high fuel pressure, but at low pressures it really chokes the engine. That's where I would look.

If I'm not mistaken the mass air flow sensor will throw that code.

When my gas tank gets below half its significantly more difficult for fuel to get to the engine, especially up hill.
My car almost died on me going up a hill yesterday, I had to pump the gas pedal the whole way, but once I was over the car ran fine.
I assume bits the fuel pump but I'm no expert.

Check voltage to the fuel pump and then check fuel pressure to be sure

That's a symptom of one of the following, from least annoying to kill me now
>worn clutch parts
you'd know if your clutch was fucked, and would have to pull the tranny to check it out
>worn synchronizer rings
might as well get a new tranny if that bothers you since it will cause wear in other parts
>worn gears
powershifting gets you here

>rattling
Get under it and poke the heatshields on top of the exhaust

Get a new fuel pump

E46 325xi, I was driving it like normal on a flat road and out of nowhere the car began shaking and the steering wheel pulled hard right for a bit, then went crazy and wanted to go in random directions, then pulled right again. Happened for about 2 minutes, stopped for a minute, happened again and then finally stopped and never happened again. This was yesterday, car runs fine as of right now but I'm afraid of further damaging something by driving it and I have no idea what to start checking. Oil is also splattered down the underside.

Recently bought an e46 M3

At low rpm in first, like cruising around a parking lot, if I put the clutch out it will sometimes make a couple loud clunks.

Clutch seems fine, vehicle was well maintained, owner was getting rid of it because he had so many cars already.

Any thoughts or ideas what could be causing the sound? Operator error or something mechanical?

You mean these things user? I couldn't budge them, but I'm not sure if the one on top has broken loose or not.

I actually just disconnected the maf and put it back on to clean it, i also cleaned the throttle body
It wouldnt start at first and i almost flooded the engine becausei'm a dumb shit but then it started so i rev'd it for a few moments. it didnt die at all afterwards but since it dieing isnt reliably happening i cant guarantee that fixed it, the work i listed with motor mounts ect did involve removing the MAF and battery.
2001 Mitsubishi Galant ES 2.4L 4 Cylinder

'93 Ford Bronco 351w

It runs fine except for when you go 3/4 to full throttle for more than about 30 seconds it slowly dies down like it's running on 6-7 cylinders.

Changed the coil, plugs, wires, cap, and rotor a few months ago. It makes a quart of coolant disappear once every two weeks, doesn't appear to be burning it, and it doesn't appear to be leaking it out. I've pressure tested the coolant system and it's sealed. And like every windsor it "marks its territory" with oil.

Base timing hasn't changed as far as i'm aware. The air filter is clean. It has the same WOT misfire with or without the SPOUT jumper.

I had to have all the cats changed a while back and I don't remember the misfire before it.

It's not throwing any codes and i'm at wits end with this bastard.

When cats make noise it's normally because a piece of the catalyst broke inside, pretty common.

Someone told me my power steering fluid is terrible in my 'new' 95 ford escort, dark colored and a bit thick. The steering is a bit hard but still doable. Could I just suck out the power steering fluid and pour new fluid in or is there a proper way to drain it?

How do I reattach side mirrors that are hanging with a way that looks better than duct tape? Currently they are taped, buying a set of mirrors for this car is $500 and it's worth $1500 so I want to fix them

2001 subaru forester automatic, 2.5L SOHC.
Transmission won't shift out of third gear no matter what. does this every once in a while, and the AT OIL TEMP light flashes. Read code, it was a transmission solenoid. I replaced the solenoid in the pan, as well as transmission filters, both internal and external.
Car still does this.

Problem could be remedied up until this week by unplugging the Transmission control module with the vehicle off and leaving it like this for about half an hour.

It's doing it again and I can't get it to reset again.

I can't quite remember which solenoid it was, I'm about to go to bed, I believe it was a 2-4 brake solenoid.

Any clue?

forgot to mention the obvious, fluid level is also good.

car and transmission only have 136,000 miles.

As dumb as it sounds too, I think it's somewhat temperature dependent. I'm in Montana and recently it snowed again and it's been below freezing for a couple days now, and my problem seems to have reappeared again.

I talked to a subaru dealership, and they don't know and I'm trying to avoid a $ 200 diagnostic charge.

I really appreciate anybody helping, or linking to other forums,

subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f89/flashing-oil-temp-light-sometimes-321338/

This basically my issue.

1993 Yamaha FZR250rr, 250cc, 6 speed. Stock.

Was riding the other day when my main 30v fuse blew. Stopped, opened up battery area under my seat and replaced fuse with spare, which instantly also blew. Anyone know why could cause this? Thanks everyone.

Riding in rain? Check any exposed connections, it seems something is shorting out

No, it was dry but quite hot, though. Shorting out? could you explain that further, please? How can I go by diagnosing/fixing the problem? I JUST WANNA RIDE

Im not sure /u/ill_tell_your_father.

Power is trying to go somewhere it shouldnt and its pulling jt from the battery. Its pulling so much that it would possibly meltthe wires, so thankfully it blows the fuse instead.

ofuk

DELET THIS

Maybe spend less time playing runescape, more time wrenching.

Anyway its just a funny coincidence i found that post.

Haven't played scape in years... only other game I played was coc but my phone got cucked so now all I have is riding... wait, I don't have that either till I fix my shit up senpai

Car starts to heat up beyond normal sometimes. Only sometimes and only when stopped, soon as I rev to ~3500 it goes back to normal.
What could this be?

Failing waterpump

The impeller pump blade thing is no longer working efficiently enough.
Or your thermostat isnt opening all the way

thanks user, I will check that out

Yes, I meant that thing on top of the cat, check the rest of the exhaust for these fuckers: the screwholes rust and fall in old cars.

One of mine is loose and I can move it by poking with a finger so if it does not move it should be fine.

Check if you have any others, i thought my exhaust manifold was loose or something when it started rattling

If this isn't your DD I'd do what my father who was a mechanic always told me "don't try to fix shit in winter because it will probably go away when it warms up"

I have an MR2 turbo with a blitz aftermarket exhaust.

after some "spirited" driving, there's now a hole the size of about a CD in my catalytic converter/muffler/the box part before the piping to the cannon is

how do i fix this without replacing the whole exhaust system and if i have a leak that's basically after my turbo, will this affect performance?