Are MR2 reliable and cheap to maintain?

that's a pretty sweet camera

I can only speak for my 1991 MR2 n/a with the 5S-FE but the engine is generally pretty damn bulletproof. I have multiple gaskets needing replacing that are leaking oil, and it still only loses about a quart every 2 months. It also has plenty of pull despite probably needing some maintenance that I'm not really planning on fixing yet. Inevitably, there will be little issues on a car this old though, so you'll still be paying to maintain any parts that wear out as they would on any car because of age. The biggest issue is that obscure parts for this car are becoming a little harder to find. Shit like shift linkages, steering rack, some non-aftermarket suspension components, and all that stuff that's generally exclusive to the MR2 and not taken from the early 90's Toyota common parts bin.

The power delivery of that seems like a turbo. The n/a's feel really well balanced imo. I've gotten very comfortable with my 2 after having it for over 4 years, and despite people saying not to brake during a turn, the set-up (of the 91 at least) lends it self really well to left foot braking. I've gotten the rear end of the car to rotate around mid speed 90 degree on-ramps, with a tiny bit of excess oversteer, and about a 90 degree stab of counter-steer on the wheel. It's a ton of fun to push the slower MR2s hard once you're comfortable. I did regret my last instance of it throwing it into the corner like that though cus if I didn't countersteer as fast as I did, I could have lost the rear end, since I was slow to put the power back on to transfer the weight back to the rear. /rant

>I MUST ATTACK AT CORNER 33

So what causes the oversteer on the mr2. is it the toe curves changing in the turn or is it because of the turbo kicking in.

It's mostly just typical behavior in a mid-engine car with a short wheelbase. It happens fast and doesn't have a huge margin for holding a slide, nor a huge margin for error in how long you maintain countersteer (or the front will grip up and spit you out fast), unless you're in the rain or snow at relatively low speed. Basically, you have to keep the weight transferred towards the rear for the majority of a turn. I would probably boil it down to the front damper rebound being a little slow, from a technical standpoint, but that's my untrained opinion. Basically, if you're gonna let off the gas or brake in a corner, just be ready to counter-steer at any moment. It's just the nature of the beast.

Also, I'd say the turbo would probably aid in that kind of oversteer too. Mainly, having the turbo spooled up and give you power, then suddenly letting off and having all that load totally rebound towards the front end of the car, but I don't know for sure. I haven't driven a turbo. I know it's a bit more imbalanced compared to the n/a models. I think the n/a models are a good 3% closer to 50/50 weight distribution than the turbos, so that could make it that much more twitchy.

Going to the junkyard tm after a meet to find another stock 4AGE or 4AGZE for my Mk.1, how much should I expect for either one?

>cheap

Cheap implies lack of quality, and any car can be maintained for cheap. Now affordable? Not a fucking chance, parts are also getting much harder to find because of retards buying them, ricing them, then totaling them.

Engine position does nothing for cost, but it's a massive bitch to work on.

Source: I own an SW20

Just watch out for leafs

>he's so poor he has to do his own car maintenance.

laughinggirls.jpg

Parts are not always cheap on these older cars. I fix my own shit, but when you have a 20+ year old car that needs something else every other month it just gets annoying. Especially when you work 6 days a week.