Been wanting a WRX for while

Unfortunately that isn't a good way to calculate drivetrain losses.

They made 227 at the crank, on a dyno, at some Subaru facility. You just aren't making that power on the street.
Manufactures do some shady stuff when dyno-ing their engines. Essentially all they are saying is that in 100% optimal conditions it is capable of producing 227hp...maybe.

The only way for the end user to come up with a drivetrain loss % that is even close to being accurate is to, in the same location and on the same day and as quickly as possible, pull the engine, dyno it (average of 10 or so runs), put it back in, dyno the vehicle (average of 10 or so runs), and then calculate the loss ratio. Even then things like barometric pressure can swing wildly in a day. Averaging repeated runs can help smooth things out.

>The only way for the end user to come up with a drivetrain loss % that is even close to being accurate is to, in the same location and on the same day and as quickly as possible, pull the engine, dyno it (average of 10 or so runs), put it back in, dyno the vehicle (average of 10 or so runs), and then calculate the loss ratio.
If you're looking for a very accurate number it would probably be easier to run the drivetrain on a dyno with a calibrated and highly controllable power source like an electric motor and then just measure the losses. It's a big added cost (barring the use of something like a salvaged titled Leaf for the motor and batteries) but precision never comes cheap.

Unfortunately user is right. They are a FWD bias - its only when the rear starts to slip does a full 50/50 split happen, prior to that its about 57F 43R.
Don't get me wrong, they handle nicely. But on a went road, unless you throw the car's weight around, it just understeers like a pig.

>Owned WRX for 2 years so far.
They have really touchy ECU's, even so much as a CAI and a dyno power run might lean it out and you'll fuck the engine.
Handling is good and predictable, and the power is ok but its mostly the large amounts of torque you rely on when overtaking/accelerating.
They are on the thirsty side even on the highway.

If you're just going to do highway and city, buy another car. They're in their element on a nice windy/hilly road where they can be enjoyed.

The 60:40 split is only found in the 4 speed automatic transmission versions of the car. The manual version is 50:50.

My bad. The front bias weight distribution probably has more to do with the understeer.

Wrong on all counts.

Tranny is fine if you're not fucking retarded and slam shifting at 9k.

Engine is reliable and able to make power with light to moderate tuning.

No FWD bias. It's split 40/60.

Look at the post 2010 models OP, the ones prior to that are severely underpowered.

>front bias weight distribution
>understeer

When you sit infront of the bus you can feel more understeer. Because there is more weight infront.

So I'm not sure what your "meme" face and green-text implying is all about.

>Not buying a Forester XT

...

Nasioc will be more help than here

Anyone wanna tell me how's the Impreza GT?

The new 2017 WRX has a new engine, transmission and a slew of other stuff that increases its reliability over the EJ what ever engines of years past

I wouldn't buy used unless you explicitly knew the owner took care of the car. this is one of the cars where kids tend to rip on them hard, do bad tunes and then try and sell thinking its worth all the money they put into it

the new WRX makes 270, does that change on a dyno?

320 crank, and the new wrxs are fucking hand grenades.

Its got a symmetrical AWD system you stupid fuck. If you're gonna talk shit at least know the car.

>STi has 300hp
>WRX has 320hp

Oh, ok.

Cobb dyno'd a bugeye at 170 whp/170 wtq stock, it's common knowledge that they have 20-25% drivetrain loss.

Its a fun car. Amazing AWD system, safe as hell buddy got tboned and rolled his a few times he and his mom walked away with just a few cuts, gl finding one used and not modded to shit. If you take care of it, do the oil changes and shit on time then it'll take care of you.

Most people say avoid the 08-09 model(what I have) but I enjoy it.

I'd say the best chances of finding an unmodded one in a decent condition would be if you looked for the Wagon variant.

Which is what I myself intend to do.

get an sti

>Posting the worst STI

Gross dude.

The C. Diff in GC8s is only available in Type RA's and Type R's, not WRX's.

>320 crank
No
>the new wrxs are fucking hand grenades
If you are trying to make a 500hp monster sure. ~325ish whp is where they get sketchy on the new ones.

They are pretty good. not super fast but fun to drive. Used means you are buying the previous owners treatment. Some people mod them right and take care of them. Most don't do that though.

We have a WRX Blobeye wagon. Power is split 40/60 in manuals, and stock power from the J Spec EJ20 is 280 at the crank at 6500rpm. Fuel consumption isn't good, at 12L/100KM, but it's a decent car for our uses.

Get a 2.0ltr STI.

WRX 5 speed is much much weaker than STI 6 speed.
2.5ltr engine is more prone to failure than 2.0.

if you aren't willing to spend a little more money for a clean example with low miles don't even bother, alot of people don't properly maintain these cars. Just know that buying an older one with alot of miles will have some problems that can get expensive. If you don't know how to wrench you will be paying a bit of a premium getting work done. Make sure whatever you buy has service records and isn't completely modded. When they are maintained and running well they are alot of fun especially on backroads, they grip very well, acceleration is great, and very stable at high speeds.

>Cobb dyno'd a bugeye at 170 whp/170 wtq stock, it's common knowledge that they have 20-25% drivetrain loss.
I tried to find a definitive answer but I'm seeing everything from 160 to 180ish whp on dyno sheets. They do seem to sit around 175 on average. As said they're likely not making the advertised power in the first place plus all the other factors that can differ between dynos, the location they're dyno'd at, and the cars themselves.

Expect new headgaskets every 150,000 miles. I've never seen anyone pull off doing the DOHC boxer without pulling it out of the car so you'll probably have to pay a shop to do it for you and then you'll probably have them do the timing belt then as well. Kind of sucks from a dyi perspective. Also Subaru's from like 08 on you can't see the classic leaking on DOHC engines, they tend to only leak internally so the tell tale sign of coolant or oil drippys is gone.
The 5 speed (and the later 5 speed from the legacy to a lesser degree) is notoriously weak and can't handle hard launches or bad shifting from idiots. It's the syncros that seize up so if you have trouble putting the car in a gear panic and 360 yourself away if you're checking out a used car. If you avoid launches you can push them to "stage 2" numbers and drive them hard provided you don't routinely miss your shifts by a couple thousand rpm.
The cooling system can be prone to failure but that's something you can inspect fix for yourself.
The WRX will tend to understeer. The STI will tend to understeer. On a WRX a good clutch type lsd on the back will help this. On the STI you'll just have to git gud at trail braking. Once you've convinced it to oversteer it is controllable. People tend to feel the understeer and conclude it's not 50/50 but it actually is. There's more to it than that, the evo is actually fwd bias but it tends to point better in stock form.
Everything that isn't the current STI benefits from being stiffened up.

Anyhow they're good cars if annoying to maintain.

2015+ sti are 40/60ish biased until 50/50 c.diff lock.

do ARP studs help the head gaskets? or will they still die

Hey guys so this one seems pretty stock just has high miles. What do you think about it? Go for it or pass?

austin.craigslist.org/cto/6011362480.html

If I was a rich asshole I'd buy this out from under you. I wouldn't plan on getting more than 60k out of it before the engine goes though.

Bump

>new headgaskets if every 150,000
true if using the shitty OEM ones and depends on which DOHC boxer. I've never really heard of the STI 2.0L in 02-04 being an issue, it always comes up with the 2.5L.

not sure what years they really cheaped out but i've had an 04 NA EJ25 and an 05 EJ25 Turbo both go in foresters. The 04 was very dramatic, white smoke coming out of the engine bay, overflow bottle grenading itself. 05 was very subtle, exterior head leak and is still running wellish.

I know that this gen used trash for headgaskets, something also to do with the headgasket being submerged in oil and coolant all the time. I know there are options out there of aftermarket headgaskets where manufacturer guaruntees it wont happen again,not sure how true this is though.

woops, meant for

Nice Corolla. Is that the "S" trim level?

If you can talk the price down a bit I'd say go for it. Not sure what they sell for down south but I feel like where I'm at that'd be going for a bit lower price. I could be just fucking dumb though so fair warning

Mine was reliable as shit until it got rod knock and needed a rebuild.

How hard would it be to conver to RWD only? I fucking hate AWD.

>falling for the boxer engine meme

dude just dont

Boxer engine is no meme, blame idiots who can't into maintenance

pretty much this, change the goddamn fluids based on usage and time rather than the normie way of doing it wrong (changing it at the longest possible intervals with no regard for anything) and you'll be fine.

Subaru head gaskets only fail if you let old acidic oil and coolant sit at the bottoms of the heads and eat away at the gasket material. Fresh oil does not do this. It's when someone puts 5000 miles on the oil and lets it sit for 6 months that things start to break down. It's literally a maintenance issue and even the shitty organic gaskets used in the early EJ25x N/A engines will not have head gaskets fail unless you leave old fluids standing in it.

my neighbour has one of those, it sound like a lawnmower. He has his name on the side and everything, i think he pretends he is doing rally cross or something. its pretty funny, he is a chiner.

>engie
>engie
>engie

Once you attempt to go 350 hp the fucking thing wants to blow, if you leave it all alone and drive as is its fine.

If the only mod I do is an exhaust one to get that "boxer grumble" will I end up compromising reliability?

The boxer grumble is how it should theoretically sound stock due to to the exhaust manifold design. No mods necessary.

check out this autism

Boxer a shit

Or go straight pipe if your state doesnt emissions test. Better than the boxer rumble imho

The most basic corolla there is.
>Implying I could afford a corolla S

Nasioc tends to shit on the aftermarket headgaskets but I have no experience with them myself. Lurking the forum kind of turned me off to the idea.
One other thing to add to my long post: The stock flywheel is annoyingly heavy. It's like 25 pounds. Maybe that doesn't annoy you but it annoys me.

Use Subaru brand coolant only
>Why?
The gaskets on boxers are shit so Subaru makes their coolant with gasket sealer

wrong wrong and wrong

Subaru adds nothing to their coolant. The "stop leak" additive they recommend is re-labeled Holtz Rad Weld. This is the sort of shit we advise AGAINST putting in a cooling system due to clogging potential.

Neither Subaru's green or blue coolants contain the stop leak additive. It is always added separately when replacing the coolant.