QTDDTOT / SQT

99% chance that's just your radiator fans coming on

Yikes. Sorry bro, that car is done for

Calling any faggots with fox bodies, where did you go to install subframe connectors if you didn't do them yourself? Should I take them to a body shop, a regular garage, or somewhere else? I don't have the tools and I don't know how to weld, otherwise I'd do it myself

Nope, it's not necessary and may not even be possible if your tires have a directional pattern (evidenced by a big arrow pointing to the rotation direction or the "LEFT" and "RIGHT" markings on the sidewall), as that would put them on backwards.

Switching front to back is enough unless you drive in circles constantly and see an obvious wear difference between left and right tires.

Alright. Thanks bro

I just took mine too Midas™

When replacing tie rods, is it good to replace the whole thing, inner and outer, or can I get away with replacing the outer only for now? From what I can tell, my inner tie rod is still good but the outer has a bit of play when I twist it so I'm replacing it.

get a polisher with MF pad and use a heavy compound to fix it

just replace the outer if thats the only one with play. inners are replaced if they have play too or are damaged

is it worht putting performance brake pads and rotors on a DD? (09 honda accord) i get what i pay for and the extra stopping power, no?

I have 2k to buy a car, a little over but that will cut into food money. I currently have no car, and it fucking sucks. However, 2k puts me firmly into early 2000s Ford Taurus territory.

How much will I hate my life if I buy one? How often will it break, how expensive are parts? Is there another obvious option I am overlooking?

Yeah, Civic or Corolla, even consider an Accord or Camry. More reliable, cheaper to own, should be cheaper to insure, and all of these can be had in automatic or manual

Drilled and slotted doesn't actually change stopping power except at very high speeds. They also tend to crack and they'll rape your pads. A more aggressive set of brake pads might be worth it though

kept getting o2 sensor CEL
replaced sensor
will be driving fine
take a wide corner
throws CEL again

wat do?

>Corolla
This would be ideal, but the problem is I actually have to get to the car, and I live in the midwest.

So it's automatic Ford shitboxes for miles around.

If I had enough money to get across the country to buy a non-shit car I would.

>Z31 for sale 200 miles from here for 1500
>180,000 miles and engine knock

Just end my pain already.

>captcha volvo 6100

a car with paddle shifters doesn't neccesarily mean it's a DCT right?

What about autotragics that have a "manual" mode?

I kinda can wrap my head around a CVT but other newer transmission technologies fucking baffle me

Check the sensor (s). Maybe they got knocked loose

Does anyone have the magnet for the SEB collection that was posted here a while ago? It was 39.2gigs, if I recall.

>o2 sensor
>came loose
nah m8 i can see it in the mani still
the only thing i can think of is the wire (yes, single wire, old truck) had too much play and wiggled the connector too much for a good signal
there were some under-used cable clamps on hoses nearby so i repurposed them and we'll see if this solves the problem
I cleared the code and it didn't come back, but it usually doesn't for 20-30 miles
vehicle is a '91 D21 with a KA24E

Hey boys Veeky Forumsizen here, I have no fucking idea about cars and I want to learn (getting my drivers license atm), I didn't find a sticky or anything, where should I start?

If by learn you mean repairs/maintenance, watch chrisfix on YouTube. Straightforward, easy to understand for beginners, and very practical. Then work on your own car. Start with oil, brakes, etc.

What exactly do you want to learn? How to drive them? How to work on them? or the basics of how they work?

It's not the fans. It feels like a mild pulse with a period of like second.

The fans coming on is obvious due to the noise and are on for like 15 seconds

Taking note, and what about how a car works? How to choose a car etc... Is there any channel that does reviews of cars/their specs and stuff?

Thanks!

If you're one of those muscle fags that have the idea like "I have muscle there for I should have muscle car uhhh!"
You will regret it especially if you plan on doing your own maintenance but if you plan on getting something with v8 start off with a v6 Camry because if something fucks up parts are cheap and easy to work on plus it'll prepare you when you do get something with a v8 because the way v6 and v8 work almost the same way but one has two more pistons

Kinda weird question, but is the pulse like a v8 with a big cam? I know it's a 4cyl

Yeah the basics of how the work, let's say for instance that I want to learn to the point where I can hold a conversation in a thread here

Well for that you need to know absolutely nothing about cars at all. In fact you'd better invest in a bus pass

Pads and braided hoses to replace the rubber hose ends.

Nah not the case m8
Not a big shitposter senpai

>hey g/o/ys i'm an attention whore from Veeky Forums
>I couldn't find the sticky that says buy a chiltons and STFU
>how do I car?

Never had a v8 but googled it and watched a video of what you were talking about. It's kinda like that in terms of the cadence of the vibration. It's periodic but it not audible at all and it's only noticeable when you sit in the car and feel the pulse.

Maybe it's always been there but my motor mounts are shit?

my 4 banger does the exact same thing. Probably shit motor mounts

I have 86 ford 302 EFI, engine started to make ticking sound after oil change. sound is most noticeable in drivers seat, sounds like its coming from back of engine. Is my lifter fucked or did I fuck up my oil change?
Note: old oil was 5-w30 and I changed it to 10-w40 both are in the manual's recommendations

>did i fuck up oil change?
did u put the right amount in?
Does it tick all the time or just on startup?
going up in weight means that the oil is thicker and may take longer getting to that ticky lifter, so if it goes away after warmup it's all good

i filed a claim for minor hail damage almost a year ago, got the check from the insurance, cashed it and didn't repaired it.
when my policy expired, they sent me the renewal for even less money.

can i keep holding the repair? i'm waiting for the next hail storm to fix.

Appreciate the quick response user. 1. Yes manual recommended 5 quarts which is one big oil carton.
2. It only ticks at warm up and goes away when car is warm.
So I'm in the clear?

>is gud?
I'd say so
doubly so if your vehicle smokes on startup (leaky valve stem seals)
it will take longer for oil to get to the top end
Honestly unless you're were already leaking or burning oil, you're going to use it in a heavier duty cycle than before, or you're going to a hot place (or your area has huge summer/winter difference in temp.) I'd stick with 5w30
>is thinner which isn't good for high heat, but gets where it needs to faster
>like ticky lifters and rattly chains

Yeah I know that my valve stem seals are fucked cuz they're so old. I live in socal so it does get a little hot down here in the summer but nothing too bad so I'll probably be switching back to 5-30 for my next change. Thanks for the answers.

My tyres are near the end of their life and under very heavy breaking on the touge my abs gets a workout.

Will getting better tyres next time help out or do I need better breaks? No heat issues with the breaks yet so hoping to put that off till later.

Car I bought just got a new radiator. Do I need to do a coolant flush, im at 130k miles.

if youre rich, sure

Just visual test it, if the coolant looks dirty then go for it. If it's having over heating problems then you're probably going to need to. If it just got a new radiator, what would be wrong with the coolant?

Not an answer

retard here, I have a 95 civic ex autotragic and I want to do an engine swap, with something like a B16 or B18 (current engine is a D16z6, will the B18 even fit?)

I'm going through craigslist and I see some engines advertised as JDM and others as USDM. Being in the US will either of these engines fit into my car?
Having an automatic is the process of swapping any different than if I had a manual?
Would it be cheaper to buy engine pieces and build it myself? Is this even recommended or feasible?
Any tips in general?

Just sell your car and buy one with the engine you want it'll be far cheaper and easier.

I want a fast car but I don't want to pay for a fast-car frame. Am I a faggot if I do an engine swap on a Honda Accord?

you should just start a new thread or go look join a forum if you want real answers
also try using google
>importinsider.net/2012/02/03/honda-engine-swaps-101-what-fits-into-what/

maybe, start a new thread to discuss how big a faggot u are/will be with bread on hood

yeah i saw that site too. I'll do some more research for a few days before making a thread

So my car is leaking water from underside center of the body ruffly where the the rear foot wells are. Its leaks a decent amount but only when the engine is running, All the fluids from the engine seem to be level. Any idea what this could be?

No, literally any automatic can be made with a manual mode and paddle shifters, from the shitty and slow automated manuals to the super-fast DCTs and anything in between, including CVTs because people are morons.

>will new tires perform better than worn tires?

Gee I wonder

Probably water draining from the AC evaporator core, so it's perfectly normal.

Thanks user, have a Ferrari

Why does GT300 & GT500 race at the same time in super gt? Aren't they completely different performance-wise?

Yes they are, it's not the only championship where they race different classes at the same time.
It helps keep the grid full, the costs down and the races less boring

Because multi class racing is great.

My truck is a 95 bought this year, should I replace the spark plugs and wires? No idea but the wiring looks original

Would this make sense:

Buying a used car, modding it as you like engine wise, and then when it comes time to sell it, re-installing the stock parts?

Mostly just asking out of curiosity. Does a stock car usually attract more buyers? Does it have better value? Also I'm kind of a purist sometimes so I think it would just be nice for the car if it's rare or has a lot of ricer tax.

Yes. I replace the plugs every oil change

>Would this make sense:

>Buying a used car, modding it as you like engine wise, and then when it comes time to sell it, re-installing the stock parts?

Yeah, that's probably the best way to sell a car unless you make legitimate strides on the vehicle. People DO want to be legitimately suped up vehicles.

Stock cars attract more buyers in general though. Better value depends on the car and how much you drop in it.

What the fugg. That seems too much. Be absolutely positively sure you get the proper spark plugs for the engine, it'll be platinum or iridium and a certain brand/number. Give your plugs a lickin to test for taste about every other week

It's not that frequent. My dad taught me to change them every time I get gas, due to electrical infetterence

I'm getting a used truck. I don't need to tow anything, mostly just for hauling stuff in the bed. I only need a half ton gasser, but will I beat myself up if I don't get a diesel? I really like the sound, power, and overall character of the diesels, but gas is definitely better for my situation. Any advice truck br/o/s?

>don't need to haul
don't get a diesel, they are designed to haul
even if you need to haul small trailers up to a ton gas is still fine.
also lifted diesels are the territory of manlets and makes them look even smaller
>protip: compact trucks make you look bigger
captcha: select the pickup trucks

>I really like the sound, power, and overall character of the diesels
I don't own a truck, but I would say to get what you like and want. If you love the sound of diesels I think you'll be a lot happier if you had one instead of wishing you had one every time you hear a diesel on the road. Who cares what anyone else thinks. It's your car and as long as you lie it that's all that matters.

>but gas is definitely better for my situation
How is gas better? Just because you don't need all the power? Unless there is a pretty big reason why you don't need diesel I would say get what you really want.

A few years ago I was in an accident. My car just lost grip and went off the road in a split second, never really understood why. It was a bit rainy but nothing terrible, and I wasn't speeding.

Anyway, ever since I've felt that no matter what car I drive, there's something wrong with it. Like it feels like there's no grip even though there's nothing wrong with the car, tires, or anything. It's not all the time but when cornering or when the road is just a little bit shit.
All cars I drive are pretty new, low mileage and no cheap shit.

How do I stop my mind fucking with me?

get severely hektik in a controlled environment
like a track or a secluded parking lot with no obstacles, preferably in the rain
you will lose traction again, but just get used to it br/o/
youtube.com/watch?v=s32dEfTH-mA
>protip: first rain is always the worst, extra oily
t lives with 60" of rain/year avg.

Cheers. Worth a shot at least.

How the fuck do you set a seat position right? In my 335i every configuration I've come up with is either too close to the pedals or too far from the wheel.

3m buffing compound, high speed buffer, fixed.

Jesus fuck no, not the goddamn Taurus, holy fuck, no, just no. You'll be dumping hundreds into it every month just hunting gremlins.

How come sometimes cars have a third (or even fourth) brake pedal?

What kind of car were you driving when you crashed?

Most modern cars have traction controls, so at anytime if you feel your losing control, know that the computer will take control in the situation.

Why would you buy a car with 180k and an engine knock? Even if you were desperate, that is just stupid

Those generation of Civics are known for having bad motor mounts, 99% sure that's it

Any issues fitting 235/75R15 tires on 15x7 wheels? I'm thinking about pairing up these two on my XJ:

quadratec.com/products/92613_05XX_B_PG.htm

tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=BFGoodrich&tireModel=All-Terrain T/A KO2&partnum=375SR5KO2RWL&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes

I'm also considering Goodyear DuraTracs. It's a tossup between them and the KO2s

>Z31
>1500

And I'm not going to buy it, that's the point. It's a terrible idea, but just tempting enough to be painful.

Any recommendations on a shipping service? They all seem to be shit bag companies.

Is $18.5k a good price for a 69 Chevelle?

boise.craigslist.org/cto/6022270833.html

Convince me not to get a used BRZ, Veeky Forums.

I'm looking at getting a good car in the near future, with the following requirements:
>small
>fast
>fun
>(moderately) cheap
>4 seats (even if the back seats are shit, I won't be using them that often but I do need them)

So far, the BRZ is looking like a good option, with the competition being a Mustang, Scion FRS, Fiat Abarth or Ford Fiesta. BRZ's design appeals to me the most so far, but I want to know if there's any competitors I'm missing out on.

My audi finally shit the bed to the point where I dont even know whats wrong anymore.

Basically I need a new car, there is a 2008 Taurus SEL w/ leather interior for sale near me. Its a salvage due to hail damage on the drivers side but I dont give a fuck as I plan on driving it into the ground anyway. Minor knicks on the bumpers and a small smidge of rust in the rear wheel well. Asking price is 4k, interior is flawless.

Redpill me on 08 taruses or should I fuck off an get like an 05-07 accord?

>BRZ
>Fast

The BRZ is a Fucking girl car

I guess fast is a pretty relative term.I should specify that I drive an old, anemic shitbox at the moment, and I'm probably never going to take the thing beyond 150 km/h.

I mean, the thing having 200 HP and going from 1-100 in under 7 seconds is plenty fast for me.

>D16z6
Uwot? I didn't know z6s even came as an automatic lmao

So I'm looking into buying an '88 Vette soon. One I'm looking at has low mileage, but that's because the owner mostly kept it garaged. I've driven it, no leaks or noticeable mechanical issues, but it hesitated to start on a chilly morning. What should I keep an eye out for if I get it, given its mostly garaged nature?

It's like this whole modern car meme culture getting off to 130hp AE86 and then going assmad at it's reincarnation with "only" 200 hp and potential to turbo it the way you like.

I drive an 06 single cab 2wd standard Tacoma, and my breaks are squeaky as all hell. Do my break pads need to be replaced? Google says they only need to be replaced every 50-70k miles but I've only driven on them for around 3k. What gives Veeky Forums?
I live in the southeast US, does the humidity make it necessary to replace them more often?

Avoid the Taurus like the plague. If you're set on an American shitbox, get a Saturn s series, 5spd preferred

I remember seeing this r34 GTR on youtube going around the track and after the turbo kicked in you can hear it sound almost like a horse flapping it's lips. What is that?

Has your truck sat or has it rained since driven? Rotors will get a layer of rust on them practically overnight in moist conditions. Rust will make them squeak. If that's not the case, try applying a decent amount of pressure when braking a few times. Really force the calipers to squeeze. That may fix any misalignment of the pads that could be causing squeaks. Beyond that, you may have to check them out visually to see what's going on. You really shouldn't need any pads at 3k.