OVERHEATING

Feck, Veeky Forums my amp keeps overheating any ideas on how to fix this? It's never done this before and I've had it wired up for months, it's just today that it's been going into protection every 20 minutes. I really don't want to rewire this thing. It's pushing a cheap kicker comp s at like 600 watts realistically.

Try some blue LEDs

You think it would be possible to install a computer fan in this thing? Like something that a retard like me could do?

mount it under the car.

but what to do about water? maybe saran wrap?

probably if there's regulated 12v rail you might able to put a fan there... but usually they already have a fan there, my 13 years old clarion amp still work and it has a fan

There should be fan inside of amp, it probably died.

Don't think there is a fan in a PX2.1600 or PX2.3200

Are you sure that it is overheating, and not entering Protect for another reason? If so, how are you sure it is overheating?

What this user is asking is a good question. If its going into protection mode it could also be a short, or a bad ground somewhere. As for cooling yeah you can easily find like a laptop fan or something for it, you could even get crazy and get those water computer cooler kits.

Well I put my hand on it and it was really fucking hot. I'll pull out the laser thermometer tomorrow and get surface readings.

These guys know. When amps hit protection,9/10 times it's because the sub is drawing too much power. Check ALL of your connections (like take them apart and redo).

Only go this route if you def dont have a cooling fan that shorted out.

Also if you have the amp attached to the box you should mount it to the car floor/trunk instead. Ive seen amps get shaken apart.

>+18dB bass boost
>gain level exalted

audio fag here

try killing yourself

>not wanting it loud
fuck off cuck

>gay furry from fucking Montana or some shit

the gain is not a volume control

the gain is not a volume control

says bass boost tho not gain

CUNT

>ever needing bass boost

its called having a proper amp

bass boost burns voice coils


gain levels should be set with with a multimeter and a test tone, and the boost zeroed

who gives a fuck m8 besides autistic muh audio fags

just slap another 20$ speaker in the box and blast it loud

>$20 speaker

i have $20 worth of butyl rubber in each door...


>Infinity Kappa 6x9's 693.11I 220W: $130
>Infinity Kappa 52.11I 5-1/4" 2-way car speakers: $100
>Sound Ordnance 6x9" Wedge Box 0.29 cu.ft sealed: $40
>50mm butyl rubber: $40
>12AWG OFC speaker cable: $45
>OFC RCA cables: $50
>SKAR AUDIO LP-1000.1Dv2 1K RMS monoblock: $100
>RE AUDIO SE4150 1600w 4 channel: $100
>SSL active 3-way xover: $30
>3/4" MDF sub enclosure. 3.25 ft^3. 32hz tuning: $70
>high output alternator 130A: $130
>4 AWG OFC welding cable and terminals: $50

~$900 install and I don't even have a sub yet. But that will be a Sundown e series single 15

in a '91 civic hatch
>thinks his $20 speakers get loud

kys

>my amp keeps overheating any ideas on how to fix this?
All the amps I know have fans. You should verify they are all working.

If not the fan, there is a far distant possibility for one of the speakers to be shorted out. That doesn't mean its resistance goes to zero because just two adjacent wires could be touching in the coil where they overlap, thus several winding's worth of impedance would be removed.

You just spent 70 percent of the cars value on a stereo, and you still are spending more.

That's mostly the definition of a ricer

So? Rather do it right than to fuck around with shit audio quality and then defend your poorfag config on an anonymous taiwanese drawing forum (where even you've failed by namefagging, you fucking numale cuck)

t. other fag who actually cares about his handwork enough to spend a little on perfection

Check fuses, check ground and check cables, usually shit quality power cables (includes ground cables) can corrode and deteriorate themselves to a point where they pass 12V but have huge resistance and cause the amp to go to protection mode.

fyi its a cheap as shit amp, the little dials on there weren't at all aligned from factory. The levels you see there are not at all indicative of what I have it set to. I know for a fact that bass boost is set to 0.

>putting an amp in your car and wiring it incorrectly
Hope it burns down.

>putting an amp in your car and wiring it incorrectly

Low cost amplifier installation. Why pay for wire nuts? Soldering is a pain too.

>Planet Audio

I found your problem right there. I hate to break it to you, but those amps are utter shit. The fact you got several months out of it before it started failing is a miracle in and of itself.

Stop buying bullshit made in China.

Alright guys I got my thermometer out and it was reading 200 degrees when it shut off, Turns out the exhaust ports tiny as they are got stuffed with dust, got my compressor out and blew them clean. I can now disturb the peace in peace again while delivering pizzas.

Jeslus christ why? Why wouldn't you just pull the amp a few inches closer to the cables? Why resort to zip ties? They're not even the black heat resistant ones fuck.

>gain and bass boost maxed out

Go nigger somewhere else.

They're not maxed out, its a shitty chinese amp. The bass boost is at 0.

Wonder what's inside the case since you blew the dust back inside the case to clear the exhaust port. I would have tried to use a q-tip or end of a zip-tie to pull out the dust blocking the exhaust hole.

Don't use a household or shopvac to suck out the exhaust hole. The suction from the big vacuum would cause the little fan in there to spin too fast and ruin it.

That's probably a temp install to test things. Don't get triggered. In real life, everything has to be fastened down or it moves around and rips loose and stops working.

I'm triggered either way, I've gotta go post about this on my tumblr blog.