Dear Veeky Forumstists

Dear Veeky Forumstists,
I'm trying to replace the strut tower mounts on a 95 Audi S6 Avant.
We are having serious difficulty removing the strut top bolt. It appears to be a self-locking nylon nut.
We have the proper tool to get the proper alen key in, but when we go to remove it the hex in the strut starts to strip.
So far it is as it shows in the image, slightly warped but still usable.

Any tips? There is no option of taking it to a real mechanic because no monies.

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torch

haha tiem for angle grinders

Are you using an impact wrench with an Allen key attachment ?

I think that's the only thing that will work

Shameless bump with 5 cylinder goodness on the car in question.
Standard hand tools, but the inside of the strut tower where the alen key sits is starting to strip before the nut budges.

Also, we are trying to reuse the struts.

just hit the nut with a impact wrench, it's how i did mine
turn it up to 11
>tried to fuck around with the allen key bullshit first
>didn't work

But doing that just spins the shit out of the strut shaft and doesn't get us anywhere?

user I feel like you may need a spring compressor or you are going to kill yourself.
My advice would be let it soak Wich it looks like it is and try tightening it a tiny bit then loosening

Hold the Allen steady and try to turn the nut, don't try to turn the whole strut with the Allen key it won't work like that

car is on the ground, suspension compressed. Folks on the Audi forms had done it the same way without manslaughter.

How are you going to get the old mount out and the new one in with the car's weight on it?

Okay good just making sure you checked. If oil and tighten trick doesn't work for it a few good taps with a hammer, don't bend metal but I few solid love taps might help things moving. Or as other user said you may need some heat/impact gun.

Jack up car once top nut is removed, weight will slowly be lifted off spring

Sounds like a good way to launch a spring into your face with ~3000 pounds of pressure behind it.

forums.quattroworld.com/a6100/msgs/11507.phtml

Not if the spring is still attached with the strut hat in place dumbass.

Do you even understand how struts work?

In case you're too lazy to read the thread, the spring is nested in the top of the whole assembly/body of the car, won't move a bit when the strut is uncompressed.

Op any progress or is that bitch still in there? Did you try the other side? Is it moving. Did you make that weird ass socket in the forum or just use box end wrench?

Actually it would probably work fine, there's no way the spring would leave the strut and it's not getting through the mount.

Ah, I've done a strut mount before but it was on an old ass Subaru GL that had the strut mount slide in from under the strut tower instead of over like that Audi. That's what I was picturing in my head, not really possible to use the method he described on the soob.

OP here, we got it. Giving it a quick once over with a impact gun helped.
I don't understand how, it didn't just spin the shit out of the strut, but hey. We did it.
Turns out he will be getting new suspension stuff this week.

Y'all just saved out road car to Sebring 12HR.

>Y'all just saved out road car to Sebring 12HR.
fffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffff

Enjoy yourself you son of a bitch.

I will, gonna be on the track w/ a camper and turbo 5 pot audi making 350 whp. Driving it down there from Colorado!

>I don't understand how, it didn't just spin the shit out of the strut
It does, it's just that the impact hits faster is all.

What turbo is that?

Garret GT3071 w/ 44mm Tial wastegate, 7a cams, 034 chipped ECU, decked head, double gasket, and black Apikol intercooler up front.

I mean, it worked. So yeah, I suppose your right senpai.

You could have just compressed (and held, with proper spring compressors) the spring like a sane person.

ever have the 034 stage 1 or 1+ tune? trying to decide between the two. 1+ needs injectors/waste gate spring while 1 just recommends 3" dp.I have a fmic, 034 dv, intake, 1.8t coils, stock downpipe, no resonators.

One of the previous owners also cut open the intake manifold ported it. still trying figure out why.

Probably because the areas that need work can't be reached without cutting it open. Getting the air distribution as even as possible is critical on a turbo car that you're wanting to play rough with because if one cylinder gets more noticeably more air than the others it'll run lean and cause knock, which in turn will cause the knock sensor system to retard timing and kill the power you spent a lot of money trying to make. Without correcting a distribution issue you'd be forced into overfueling the other cylinders just to keep the lean one from causing knock.

Or the intake could just be a huge bottleneck but just looking at the thing I'd be suspicious about cylinders 1 and 2 and 4 and 5 being rich or lean depending

Nah he just went from stock car to turbo swap w/ all the other work done, and a stage 1 tune for the GT3071.
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they should be able to work on your stock ECU. He recommends going thru them, but the 034 stage 1 tune for his turbo does fine. But again it's kind of a base map for the parameters of a build. VEMS and dyno work will be done in the next year or so.

It just seems un necessary for a car with no chip/tune and stock turbo. I get the feeling the car use to have a chip and they took it off.
I have been thinking of going down this route of doing it all at once.

Use an impact gun ya fucking flog

I JUST DID THIS with my golf. Yeah we used a torch mate, shitton of locktite or something in there and nylon locker

Sucks, there is a tool out there for it to help but we needed a torch

If that's nylon just melt it out with a torch.

Nah the impact is forceful enough to turn just the nut, the shaft has enough inertia.

Source: did my 22 year old struts like that