/classic car general/ - /ccg/

I literally didn't know shit maybe 6 months ago. Not saying I'm an expert now but there's a plethora of articles and YouTube videos online not to mention books avaliable for sale or download pdf. Shit I even bought some crappy as quadrajet for 15 bucks on ebay Just to disassemble and tinker. It's a hobby that's easy to pickup man

I tried setting up a manual choke but i also don't have the hardware for that.

The fast idle cam is sat fine, i just need to figure out which choke parts actually actuate the butterfly.
I've been googling a lot about this subject but this is one of those topics that people just seem to know and not really document for the younger crowd.

That sounds like your timing is absolutely fucked man. A bad af doesn't seem like it would cause the fucker to backfire and be retarded to start.

Also pour a little had in the intake, it works better for me than starter fluid

>That sounds like your timing is absolutely fucked man.
Nah it's a combination of shitty walmart battery and too much starting fluid.
I got her idling fine.
youtube.com/watch?v=GRypV8irKJo

The catch is it needs a jump to get it running but it won't stay running while the battery tender is hooked on, so you gotta jump out right after it fires and unhook the tender before it stalls.
It needs a valve lash for sure.

Mate why not just spend the $60 on a decent battery?

There's just something about French cars...

So i've just not realized what i thought was the dashpot is actually the fucking choke.

brb kms

That's how much the Walmart battery cost.

It's toast, i think i overcharged it one day and it won't hold a charge for more than 24 hours.

When i actually get a job i'll be able to find a proper replacement.

I agree

That sucks man. Well good luck in the job hunt

Any thoughts on this?

>That sucks man. Well good luck in the job hunt
Thanks holmes, not sure where my trip went

Posted in wrong thread apparently

>bought classic 3 months ago to work on
>doesn't run and I don't have garage
>figure it will be fine off to the side of driveway under tree
>ice storm yesterday coats tree in ice
>wake up to tree on car

Welp RIP

What car? That sucks man. Was it insured? Could it be considered property damage for your homeowners insurance?

It was a 78 Lincoln Continental. Figured I'd put an engine that doesn't suck into it.
Apparently not now. It wasn't worth enough to insure while sitting in my driveway, I'll have to check my homeowners though. I know it covers the tree removal at least

Power window motor final gave its last gasp. Taking the door panel off and knocking it with a hammer doesn't work anymore. New motor won't arrive in Australia for another week. Makes it hard to drive not being able to wind down the window when it has been hot as balls.only way it is bearable is winding down the passenger's side and taking off the T-tops

Trees aren't really the best thing to park a car under. Sap eventually builds up on the body and makes it nearly impossible to remove if you let it sit too long. My friend has a car with a hood that is now 50% sap 50% paint. He tried just about every cleaner to get it off and the paint comes up with it.

also yeah that sucks. How bad is the damage?

dad owned a ds safari wagon until soon after i was born... he sold it because it was either me or pay for the constant car maintenance

feels bad /o ; ;

Why are manual AMC Javelins hard to find?
They were made right?

An electric choke is really no more complicated than a manual, manifold heated, or coolant heated thermal choke.

The huge difference is, it uses a stupid-simple electrically heated bimetallic clock spring to open and close the choke plate. Y'know, as opposed to a similar clock spring buried down next to the exhaust crossover pipe, or a similar clock spring being heated by coolant.

Just go with the electric choke if you can.

It's got 50 foot of tree straight down the center, pretty sure it's going to the scrap yard

Here. I used The Google to find you some learnin'.

chevelles.com/techref/Adjusting_Automatic_Chokes.htm

thecarburetorshop.com/Automaticchokes.htm

hello ccg anons, how's it hangin. To the tripanon 1976 lincoln continental, I saw that you bought the 59 buick; very cool car. What are you planning on with the 76 lincoln?

thanks m88

>Just go with the electric choke if you can.
it turns out i have a vacuum choke, just no thermostat. I'm just a big dum dum 2bh

My dad had a 260z that had first run starsharks, and then I was a thing.

I've collected a ton of links to good deals on older cars on CL. Should I drop some of them off in here?

Yisss

Rate my Mini. 1.3 i 1992 red/black leather inside

well, we're waiting :)

i'm not here for shopping, just lookin'

ayyylmao gib de link b0ss

>Strange Want Edition
55 years old largely forgotten compact station wagon with more character than meets the eye strange enough?

best aftermarket hood prop?

Wood

How much of a terrible idea it would be to actually buy a DS.
kijiji.ca/v-voiture-collection/longueuil-rive-sud/citroen-dspeciale-1972/1242388763?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

I'd do it here, but then again I share a border with France, and not an ocean.

My fan belt was squealing like death, i looked at it and it keeps flopping around when going from the alternator pulley to the crank.

is there a fucked bearing in my alternator or something?

>Is there a bearing in a spinning piece of equipment that bears a load
Bruv.

I know there's one in there, I'm afraid it's walking and making the belt looser the more it runs.
There wasn't a peep from it two days ago.

you probably just need to tighten the belt. if its already tight and you hear a grinding noise from the alternator then its bad bearings

I tightened it and it's not squeaking anymore. the bracket is rusty so it might be slowly bending.
The motor shakes too so that doesn't help
You see i have to assume the worst so that i can only confirm my fears or be pleasantly surprised.

Anyway, has anyone used an aftermarket radiator? If so what brand is it and how well does it function?

Reposting because posted in the wrong thread

Can't believe it boiz, it fired first try!

And by first try I mean the harness and wiring were all good. I was having cranking issues and it was because I had shit jumper cables, they were smoking when I was jumping the starter

Still blown away I didn't fuck anything up.

We're all gonna make it

Hell yeah dog. I think my next paycheck, I'm buying the 302. We going to be v8 soon my man.

>2 classic car generals happening right now

I am so confused.

Want a c10. Currently living at home and have been driving mommy's minivan.

19 years old working full text trying to save money for a house/vehicle. Mom is fine with me using her vehicle for the next few years so it's hard fore to commit to setting like this

Also know fuck all about cars but want to learn.

Sell me on buying one Veeky Forums

Don't
They're being boomer taxed hardcore right now.

I put an aftermarket radiator in my 71, I went with an old school copper core, not the modern aluminum junk. I can't remember the brand, I'll look tomorrow, I was satisfied with it. That being said, I've got an 03 Impala I'm working on atm, and I did some research on cheaper alternatives (aluminum). I found that Mishimoto has good reviews, but they're expensive. I ended up with a TYC, which was the cheapest but best rated besides the moto, but is apparently a Koyo, who supposedly make OEM radiators for Toyota. It just came today, didn't even open it yet. I'll be putting it in Friday or Saturday, so I'll report back.

Also, I'm thinning the herd a bit, anyone in the tri-state want a Caddy on the cheap?

Who knew the world of aftermarket radiators was so vast.

Even later ones around 1985-88? they still have that classic look but don't make me think of a typical boomer vehichle. If not what should i get?

philadelphia.craigslist.org/search/cta?query=c10

In my area the cheap ones are rotten and the decent ones are way overpriced.

philadelphia.craigslist.org/cto/6007595428.html

This one is decent, i guess nobody told him to add another 0 but it comes with a 273, not a 350.

A lot of them are cheap Chinese garbage that won't last a year. Spectra is the one to stay away from for sure. Aluminum radiators can't be re-cored, that's why I went with a copper one. It was like 300 something bucks, but it was cheaper than re-coring the original.

I would go OE if i could find an undamaged one for a decent price.
I guess you can't really tell what's going to be shit until it overheats on you or you find metal flakes in your coolant.

>modern aluminum junk

But aluminum radiators are lighter and have more surface area versus copper per thickness.

aluminum is also much weaker per thickness and much more susceptible to corrosion.
also god help you patch punctures on aluminum

They also don't seem to last as long though, albeit cheaper to buy. The original radiator is still in my 79 Thunderbird, while at work we've put new rads in vehicles only 10 years old or so

>aluminum is also much weaker per thickness
I didn't realize the radiator was an important structural element in a unibody or modern body-on-frame car.
Also please explain why aluminum is so prevalent in suspension components and not brass/copper.

>much more susceptible to corrosion.
Copper, zinc, and tin are all a lot more reactive than aluminum.
So don't run plain water in your cooling system and you won't have a problem.

>also god help you patch punctures on aluminum
Aluminum can be welded.

alright, have to post my buick all over again because wrong thread.

never give up on your dream car, if you work hard enough, you'll get it like me

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thinner materials transfer heat better, the strength also comes with the perk of more durability from rock strikes and jarring around offroad
and i said stronger per thickness, not lighter.

try external environments, salt plays all kinds of hell on it, copper tends to fare better when exposed to salts.

and whens the last time you welded aluminum?
brass/copper can be soldered or brazed with the most basic of tools without worry of heat damage/ internal crystalline damage of the metal

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the real failing point for aluminum rads today though, is the fucking plastic caps they crimp on.
solid aluminum or brass is ideal and either one works just fine, id personally opt for brass every time though

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under the hood?

loved the curved window

362 nailhead with a 2 speed dynaflow

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just a couple inches further back and itd technically be a mid engine
have you done any internal work or plan on it?

well i just bought it yesterday night so no work yet, the first thing I will do though is put in new universal weather stripping for the doors all around.

next would probably be a heater core and wiper motor and wiper blades.

Good fucking damn that's hot.

everything seems mechanically sound though?
might toss a gauge on the oil to see how its doing soon

Turns out my tires on my truck predate modern date codes...
needless to say theyre getting junked asap
but of course i finally get my wheels nad now my tires are back ordered

yeah nothing wrong mechanically other than a leak on the back of the dynaflow, though its a small leak. the last owner owned it for 5 years and had receipts for every little thing hes ever done for it and really took care of it. he even has stickers and dates of when he changed the oil and fuel filters and stuff

gotta love owners like that. i found this little gem in my truck when i got it home.
logged every tank of gas, every fluid change or addition and repair made

ive never been in a car with a 2speed in it, hows that drive? is it two tall gears or does it run out of steam on the freeway?

The Dynaflow relies on the torque multiplication of the converter to get the car moving. It started in high gear and stayed there. You had to manually select 1st.
Should be 364 CID not 362 CID

What I meant originally was this, that most aluminum radiators are made like shit for pennies in China with plastic fittings. The cooling system is extremely important (duh), paper thin aluminum and plastic is not what I'll be putting in my car.

Congratulations man, looks awesome

neat, sounds like a glassy smooth ride
also maybe hes accounting for carbon buildup m8

You will discover why it was referred to as the "Dyna-slow"

Additionally, for 1959 there was a Triple Turbine option. Basically gave the effect of having a variable stall converter. Although I doubt a 4 door lesabre would have been specced with one

the motor always seems so revved and I never notice the shift between first and second gear. 0-35~ first gear, everthing else second gear pretty much. the tranny is a piece of shit and I wish I could switch for a manual 4 speed in the future if it ever blows. owner before me, never got it above 70 though, but it gets a little loud at 70 and I dont care to really go past 60mph on the freeway
my bad, been drinking. the motor sounds so good with the exhaust being dumped under the car before the rear axles.

You don't feel the shift because there isn't one. You have to manually select 1st or it starts in 2nd

MUH DICK

This, it's where the term slushbox originated.

bretty cool but is it still a stock single point motor?

just bought this for $800

Nice, does it run?

I'll post up a bunch when I get home. Currently sitting at a hotel in Pelham, Alabama.

why does it look angry

>A Pillar non-existent

When will this glory time re-emerge in modern car design, lads?

You just blew my mind with this; I can't believe I didn't know this until now!