Issue with car keys

What year/model is the Honda? What country are you in?

So the goddamn Honda dealer cuts you one of their keys, and the Honda dealer couldn't program their own keys, with their own Honda diagnostics computer, to your Honda car?!!? user, what are you on about, this doesn't sound correct.

When you try to start the car with your new key, is there a green key icon lit up and blinking on your dash? That means the immobilizer will not allow the vehicle to start until it sees a programmed key (which you only have the other one of).

As far as your door lock not working with it, try hitting it with some Triflow or WD40. Sometimes the lock wafers are just all full of sand or whatever over the years from not moving, because people will always unlock the doors with the car remote if they have it, rather than the key. You don't start a car engine that hasn't turned in 4 years without making sure there is oil in it, same thing with a lock cylinder. Metal on metal, yo. If it still doesn't actuate, most likely the original owner either had the lock replaced, or a broken lock wafer in the cylinder. Take it to a locksmith for repair, or just buy a new one on ebay (with the keys for it included).

>Honda not being able to program a key for 2 hours.
Listen Brother, Honda keys take 2 minutes tops to program, the service techs don't know what they hell they were doing. Try a locksmith for the programming, they will be cheaper than the dealer.

I'll make a video quick. Everything turns on in the car except the engine doesn't fully start. It just sits there trying to turn over.

Alright so finished uploading the video
youtube.com/watch?v=PdEGF5MIXrQ&feature=youtu.be

2004 Honda Accord EX-L V6 4 door sedan, USA

Apparently when they programmed it, it still would not work on anything in the car including the trunk, alarms, and locking/unlocking doors

Video shows the dash. There is no green key icon, just the green "Cruise Control" icon.

I'll try that tomorrow. Thanks. He is the second owner of the car, and it was given to his son so he probably never locked it with the actual key and just used the fob.

I have no idea what they were doing either

Closeup of the keys. Left is the new cut one. I even overlayed them in photoshop and they are identical.

>I need some help or an opinion on what to do.
Look over your owner's manual for that year model of your car. Download it if the guy didn't give you the book. There should be a keys section in it about making copies of the key fob or reprogramming. My GM car comes with a new key fob programmer. With the official key in the ignition and able to start the car, the new key fob is put in the location in the center console. Turn the official key in the ignition several times followed by an actual start and then do something with the fob and the new fob's digital signature will now be recognized by the car's computer.

If your Honda has a similar programming feature, then you don't need the dealer to make new fobs. But that also requires your car to make use of those generic fobs out there which my car evidently does. YMMV.

They key honda made for me doesn't even work in the ignition even though it is the same key

>They key honda made for me doesn't even work in the ignition even though it is the same key
WTF. Now that is just weird. Maybe the key that works has some hidden RF wire in the plastic just like those RFID tags.

Take the bad key and prepare to start the car. BUT, hold the good key next to the bad key. Now start the car with the bad key. Does it start when you hold the good key right next to the bad key? If so, then the good key has some sort of hidden thing RFID tag in it. That way, if a thief picks the ignition lock, without the RFID, the immobilizer goes NOPE.

RFID is passively powered. It needs no battery since the sensor will radiate a signal that powers the RFID.

I'll go check quick

> Being this cucked you have to buy a car with a computer in the key.

Just dont be a faggot and buy a real car with real keys without the electronic bullshit.

No change.

>don't read the thread
>shitposts about mechanical only

Nigger fucking read shit before you post. The actual key is completely the same but the new one doesn't work.

>No change.
Well, that's too bad. But since you did pay the dealer for a working key, they are going to work out why their dealer key doesn't work. Don't surrender to the brute force solution of replacing the ignition lock with a new one so that you can have two new keys with fobs. That's not fixing the problem but throwing money to avoid it. As long as they don't give you the excuse of "You need a New Ignition Lock with all new set of keys!".

Anyways, check your owner's manual about making new keys. Good luck on it. I have all my fobs, but now I wonder if I should buy a spare lithium battery for it and store it somewhere in case the fob battery dies out. Without the fob battery, the fob doesn't work. And without the fob digital signature, my car won't start even with the physical key since the car doesn't sense the digital signature.

To make a spare fob on my car, it requires two good fobs. One is in the ignition. The other is placed in the alcove in the center console. The spare fob is then alternated with the fob in the center console. By requiring 2 good fobs to duplicate more fobs, this prevents a service shop or someone borrowing your car from duplicating your fob and using that dupe to steal your car later. It's a good system. Obviously, the time to make the spare fob is when both good fobs are available (not lost).

I am tempted to go check out Lowes and Home Depot to see if they sell the spare fobs that work for my car. The time to make a spare is when I haven't lost any. Otherwise, I'll be stuck giving the dealer $350.

Just in case it does come to that, would you happen to know an estimate on how much that would end up costing? There is 3 locks around the car, 1 on the driver door, 1 on the glove box, and 1 on the trunk so they would have to replace all of those? Hopefully they wont be going around charging me for everything that doesn't work like charging me for 20 keys as they try to get it to work.

Looked up some quotes and it's about $40 per lock for entirely new locks (might need this for driver door since nothing goes in) and about $10 to rekey the other 2 locks.

Even after this I've still managed to buy the car cheaper than he wanted because he didn't have the original key. I got him to go down $700 because of it.

Honda started doing RFID chips in their keys around 2001. I know this because I remembering it being a thing when my parents got a new Accord in 2001 and they specifically mentioned the RFID security feature of the key. I'm pretty sure the dealership just fucked up coding to the key to the car.

I suspect it doesn't work when holding the original key next to the ignition because the transmitter signal is actually sent through the ignition barrel and not over the air so to speak, but that's speculation on my part. OP could try confirming that with a wire between the new key in the ignition and the original key.

Assumption: So that would mean OP holds the plastic part as naturally close to the actual position of the key in the lock with a wire from the metal part to the metal part of the lock in hopes the weak signal from the RFID will be coupled to the the metal of the bad key. That signal then travels thru the bad key into the insides of the ignition lock where the antenna for the sensor is located.

Or OP can hold the key so that the metal rod part of the key touches the keylock. Don't know if that gets enough signal.

He should just put the new key in the ignition and connect a wire from any exposed metal on the new key to the working key which he can hold or set wherever, if my assumption is correct position shouldn't matter since it's all being done through the conductive metal of the key.

I thought of this after I posted but it may not work with the new key because the car will see signals from both the original working key and the incorrectly programmed new key that doesn't work. If he really wants to narrow down the suspects he could have a key made from a regular hardware store blank and then try the method I described above with the working original key. If it does work then he knows he has an incorrectly coded key and he should probably get his money back from the dealership and go to a locksmith who can do Honda keys.

This would also work but it's going to be a little awkward when trying to turn the key to see if the car starts.

The horse penis cut always makes me giggle

>I just bought a used honda from a guy
>The key works in the ignition, unlocks the trunk and works on the glove box, but not on the door.
WHY DIDN'T YOU CHECK THAT BEFORE YOU FUCKING BOUGHT IT?

>would you happen to know an estimate on how much that would end up costing?
I don't know what nouns are in your "that" pronoun. I was talking about fobs. Certainly they come with a key that also has to be cut. But to me the main thing is the fob. My local chevrolet stealership requires $350 for a new fob (with key). I have not checked other dealers to see if they are lower priced but that is probable.

My local dealer seems to upscale prices due to a captive audience not willing to drive a lot farther to find another chevy dealer for a better price. For example, my chevy dealer charges $178 for 4-wheel alignment and the chevy dealer in a different city north of me charges $68 and includes a free automated car wash.

Mate, I did know about this and I figured it's just a busted lock from not being used in forever.

The issue is the new key cut the same as the old one doesn't work on the ignition.

I was thinking of just having the bar cut (no fob) and then tucked inside my belt. So if I lock the fob in the car, I can pull out the cut bar and open the door to retrieve the fob.

>Haunted by the ghost of the conq I just killed

Oh my mighty and powerful lord protect me against this dark spirit