/classic car general/ - /ccg
/
Diesel Fiat Edition
>Post your classic cars and trucks
>Blog about electrical gremlins
>Pray to the carb gods
>Post about your failed dash pad vinyl wrappings and middle consoles
>Argue about Mopar vs Ford vs Chevy vs IHC vs Pontiac vs Buick vs Oldsmobile vs Cadillac vs Packard vs Hupmobile vs Deusenberg vs Peerless vs Auburn vs Edsel vs Cord vs Locomobile vs Stanley vs Hudson vs Studebaker vs AMC vs Graham vs Delahaye
this one is for the toilet-kin, the absolute DIESEL SCUM small man with even smaller ideas. im finding it difficult to deal and speak with my diesel fiat loving son on a day to day basis hed rather be """going wonderlust levels of HAM""" at the local Blue Man Group show at the expense of my life insurance. he wants to make my death look like an accident so that he can claim the money and go watch Matilda on Ice with impunity. the absolute SHIT LIPS this activity is nothing short of sneaky, i never knew my pinto loving spawn would turn into this monster, this reptilian lizard kin son of a bitch.
as i type this im in the electronic section of Giant Tiger and getting in tune with my inner "rogue pixels" so that i have a sturdy defense against my son named Michael Jet (mjet for short"
have i failed as a father? yes and no. i bought him the 1.3 digger mobile in automatic to teach him temperance and respect for the samurai code, you start low and aim high, but like most corrupt defective boys he'd rather just identify as THE GOLD FACE instead of dealing with me directly. i have to deal with THE GOLD FACE as proxy. these are his crimes who will take him in
fucking absolute scum
>a set of good Mags is $600 without shipping
kms
>a set of Weiand valve covers for your engine are $2000
Why does bling have to be so expensive?
It's cool that essential repair parts are dirt cheap but damn.
>you will never go back in time and force your dad not to sell his roadrunner and set up a vacuum bubble to sit in until it can be inherited.
>tfw a set of moroso gold valve covers where for sale for 50 dollars two towns away
>got snagged instantly
kms. picking up a timing cover tomorrow though.
>looking to buy wheels
>with tons of rust and extraneous repairs
m8, aesthetics come last
The rust isn't serious anywhere on the car.
it's all just surface rust that will either get rustoleum or eventually a paint job but you still gotta look at the bling.
lol I feel it man. it gives me hope that one day I won't have to worry about
>building an engine or electrical issues
>tfw no leaded gas
All i want to do is run 12:1 compression
isnt AVgas still leaded?
Octane booster and Lead additive.
some older fuel types run 15:1
but they are super toxic and contain like 8 different ingredients
>caring about toxicity when performance is on the line
what are you, some kind of hippie?
Race gas. Too bad it's like 2 or 3 times as expensive as premium
This looks promising
Can you build a 302 with a 600cfm carb this camshaft, 9.1 compression, this head in pic related and a e303 cam in the link
Also it has a 60cc combustion chamber, and 1.6 roller rockers
Just moved into a place that has a garage that actually fits my 76 buick electra. Happy day boys
What kind of intake and headers?
Shorty unequal length, intake is a Edelbrock performer 289
The headers are bbk 1515 to be exact
...
That's cool as fuck. Looks like the lift is for 1.7 ratio rockers though
Max lift should be .498 I think
Similar to NASA CMC (and they have to dyno the cars.) ...they don't make that power. More like 260crank/300whp with gt40 heads.
err... other way around. obviously.
Yes even though i know a few engines with low compression but you need a license to be able to buy airplane gas or something.
I want it to be available at every pump tho
>a barrel of race gas is like $1500
wish i was rich
Whoops. I took the lift from the cam specs, divided by 1.5, then multiplied by 1.6. Might've fucked that one up.
That's a neat program. Where did you download it? Looks pretty accurate though
What program is this?
A local yard has a z600 that has some rust and prob wont run. Does anyone have any experience with a z or n600 that wants to weigh in on an engine swap or a partial resto?
there is no fucking reason for this to be there and I have hit my head on it at least 10 times and stabbed myself straight on the spine at least that many times. Fuck whoever put this here.
desktop dyno 2003. I posted a download link in the last thread. Im happy it got used.
Its insanely accurate. It estimated my 302 to within 3 horsepower and 2 ft lbs of torque.
>page 8
Does anyone have any experience with running a bulkhead fitting on the bottom of a gas tank?
Seems like the cheapest alternative to building a sump or even a fuel cell.
>but you need a license to be able to buy airplane gas or something.
not out here, you just have to pay like $6 a gallon for it.
probably a manufacturing index pin. cut it off
any chance for a link? Google showed up nothing, piratebay nothing, kickass was apparently siezed..
whoops, I realized I had the old thread still open. Here's a link for any nogs who had closed the last thread: mega.nz
bad decryption key or someshit
That's pretty fucking neat my dude.
Watching dukes of hazard right now.
What did Jesse mean when he said a Wagoneer would have more horsepower than a Roadrunner?
come on now...
While I'm ripping out my turbo in my car, the annoying heat shield denies me access to the where the exhaust bolts to turbine housing. There is a fucking bolt underneath the heat shield that I can't reach, and I can't get it from under the car.
I'm pretty autismo, what do, keep trying?
infinity wobble extensions
will try, will try.
It was my birthday a couple of days ago, and I got some cash. Probably going to get a bigger turbo, and more tools.
You lost part of the link.
mega.nz
If it makes you feel any better I had the same problem with some bolts that hold the transmission crossmember in place on my Bronco. It took me a couple of hours to finally get all 4 of them off because of their location and the amount of force it took to turn them.
...
>Tfw her tires won't stop going flat
check the beads. I bet the tire place didn't clean the rim / use bead sealer..
haha drumpf btfo
is 1989 old enough
Yes, but depends on the car
>Tfw no turbo turd gen trans am
its a honda
EF hatch with a few simple mods?
CA5 with a leaking fuel injector.
I was looking into exhaust coatings about a month ago and happened upon a video about a product that seemed to work really well. It wasn't a paint per se but some sort of coating that bonds to the metal and looks like newly made cast iron afterwards. I feel like it was SureSlip or some name sounding vaguely like that, and I cannot fucking find the website/video anymore. Do any of you guys have any idea what I'm talking about?
Found it. Slipplate.
streettechmag.com
slipplate.com
In case anybody was curious.
Your are good only as long as you post vape pen.
But do you have any questions?
Alright, fellas. I'm gonna try and fix the Cutlass today. Something is causing the battery to drain while driving, and I'm hell-bent on figuring it out. Already replaced the alternator. The plug is corroded to shit, so I'm thinking that's the problem. Possibly a bad wire, or the belt could be slipping. Any other suggestions? I'm knocking this shit out tonight.
diesel
who has something between the wheels
what the fuck does that mean...?
Check battery connection
Clean terminals
Check for wires shorting on eachother
Check fuse box
Pray
I hate vape.
Q1: Is it worth to get classical/historic for insurance?
Q2: Any recommendations in restoring the look (paint/clearcoat) or shine or an old car?
Battery connection is fine. Wires all seem fine from what I've seen. It's fine at idle, but when you start driving it drains, so I'm gonna try tightening up the belt first, then replace the plug.
Got my new 770cfm 4 barrel Holley
Before you spend any money on restoring it to a new or nice visual spec, ask yourself if you're doing it because you want to keep it forever, or you're doing it as an investment.
With fun classic cars, it's a labor of love, but not usually an economic one. If you're keeping it forever, down the road you'll want to respray the shell. Honda clearcoat is literally a shit
I'm thinking about buying a classic vette but I'm new to the world of classic cars. Is there anything I should know going into this? Any tips?
I am keeping it forever, and it will be of love. Im hoping down the line i can have the body rust removal with new paint and clearcoat then rustproofing undercoating after all the suspension/engine work it done
That's pretty much all you can do.
Are you sure you want to keep it forever if it's already starting to rust?
What's that puppy goin on?
light rust, I can live with PO had it rustproofed
>sum ting wong
>wi tu lo
>ho lee fuk
>bang ding ow
BUILT TO LAST, DURALAST®
1969 el Camino with a 350
>anti rollback feature
I just changed my u-joints, lel.
Remember kids, always check your u-joints
I love your ferd but I hate those wheels
>merkur on craigslist being sold as non running for parts
>obligatory ran when parked meme
>exterior looks great, only one shot of engine bay but it doesn't look terrible
>thousand bucks
convince me i shouldn't
32 year old cheap, shit Ford electronics that run everything that have been degrading in a field for a decade
...
God damn...
...
Honestly. Although I love the first gen more, Boat tail is sex though.
Welp, I took an L today.
>Put insurance on it
>Had them fax the proof to the courthouse
>Drove 20 over to entire way there
>Walked in 3mins before closing time
>License plate and paperwork already waiting for me
>Girl at the desk looked at me like she wanted to bang
>Jump-started the shitbox
>Idled for about 10 minutes and died again
>Drove an hour away to vatozone
>Alternator connector, wire strippers, ring terminals and crimp connectors, 15/16 socket, 1/2 drive ratchet
>$50 spent
>Battery tested, said it was good
>Finally got home and replaced the connector
>Jumped again
>Headlights still bright 10 minutes later
>Let it run while I take a shower
>Hear it die as I'm getting out
The new connector helped, but it wasn't the only issue. I turned the alternator with the ratchet, and it just slipped the whole time. Should I put more tension on the belt?
Will not come out with force. Not with heat. Not with penetrant. Not with dirty looks and muttered curses. Not with racial slurs. It needs to be cut and probably drilled out. Where can I find a replacement?
Put as much tension on the alternator belt as you can, if it's the usual kind of style where there is no adjuster for tension, then get someone to help you pull on the alternator as hard as they can, while the other person tightens the alternator bolts
>those wheels
Missed it by *that* much
>they don't listen to soul/smooth R&B while building engines
I have a March alternator bracket, so I can use the upper rod to adjust it and increase tension.
Should I do this with the belt on?
Anything to do for a transmission that has sat for like 20 years?
Are these things worth owning? I see sub-$1000 Jags all the time and they look pretty comfy. Need to get off my streak of 5 old German cars in a row
>I see sub-$1000
Because they have $1000+ repairs on the way.
change fluid
It has fresh fluid.
Should i chuck some grease on the U-joints along the driveshaft?
If you want. Some seals may be bad but you won't know until you run the thing.
manual or auto?
Fuck no.
...
looks like fun
I spent a while trying to get it to come out when I first pulled the driveshaft. It simply would not budge. Went out and bought replacements, then took a hacksaw to it and got it knocked out. Just a slightly frustrating thing that held up my progress for a day or so.
what car?
God damn that's ugly
auto
89 Bronco, 5.0. Its very very very slowly getting to where I want it, condition wise. Id like to get it done before the new Broncos roll out.
Newfag here. I think I want my next car to be a classic, but my question is, does owning a classic hike up you're insurance prices?