QTDDTOT / SQT

The pedal brakes all wheels, the front gets more force than the rear on pretty much every car, but they all brake nonetheless.

What is this sound? It stops when I press the clutch

vocaroo.com/i/s0FtossaziGW

Have you tried driving with it? Is it a sound that gets louder with engine speed or car speed?

Yeah actually, I have another recording to post. I can "feel" the noise if I put my hand on the shifter, its like a periodic bump

vocaroo.com/i/s0iokKqzOh37

My car made a similar noise when the flywheel decided to commit Sudoku, but I have one of those double flywheels that are very common on diesel engines.

If the engine gets louder with engine speed, the issue might be flywheel/clutch related, if it gets louder with car speed then it's a problem inside the gearbox like a bad shaft bearing or something

So if someone were selling a car as 'no title/parts only', assuming it weren't completely fucked, is there anything stopping me from fixing it up and retitling it?

Want to get into cars so I'm looking for a guide that can give me an overview on how cars work, engines, different types etc. Anything you think I should know.

Looking for text guides rather than video if possible. Not looking for a car buying guide, just a general car guide.

Thanks Veeky Forums.

The only limit is your budget my dude

If you really want to buy Cletus' Honda Civic thats been sitting in the yard for a decade and restore it, by all means

Looking at a used 4.6 F-150 that was previously a rental vehicle, actual mileage unknown as the cluster was replaced, but estimated around 150k. Owner does have all of the previous maintenance records though.

Too much of a risk?

Where can I do that art, OP? The one in the last thread was nice to look at too.

OP here. It's from this website named pizap.com

Start from wikipedia, get the basic concepts from there, then pick a subject that you like and start delving into the citations from wikipedia, there are plenty of good reads in there.

Unfortunately, there aren't many all-inclusive guides for cars, there is simply too much stuff to talk about.

Start learning the basic components and how they work: engines, suspensions, transmissions, brakes, steering, diagnostic networks, etc.
Sometimes videos can make you understand things way better than a detailed explanation so you might want to watch some stuff on YouTube to understand some hard to visualize stuff like differentials, engine valvetrains, gearboxes and so on.

If wikipedia doesn't satisfy you, use Google, it will give you a lot of beginners guides on pretty much everything there is to know.

Just don't try to find a definitive car guide contained in a single document, it doesn't exist.

hey Veeky Forums gonna check out 1999 nb miata today with 80000 on the odometer it's in SOCAL so it's rust free what should I look out for. He says the AC feels weak so he is only asking 4000 too much? The paint also could use work but it's just a few areas.

From someone who drives rentals on a regular basis for work and works with many people who also drive rentals a lot: avoid ex-rentals at all costs.
Don't even consider them, people don't give a single shit about cars when they aren't their property,
Redlining a cold engine, jumping on curbs, needlessly trashing transmissions "just to see how it works", stoplight racing, burnouts, misuse of handbrakes, wrong fuel usage are just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to the amount of mistreatment rental cars have to endure every time they are driven by people.

Replaced the upper radiator hose recently and put on a new screw clamp. Now it's leaking out of the end because of the clamp. I tightened it, still leaking. Put on a better screw clamp, still leaking. Put two clamps on, still leaking. Any ideas why this damn hose won't stop leaking?

Any mr2 guys around? I can't find the starter on my aw11. Gota give it some good whacks to get it moving.

Thanks user I'll attack it piece by piece.

Bump pls. Car's pissing coolant

Was the extension off the radiator or thermostat wet when you clamped it on, or were they damaged in any way? on some cars they have a lip on the end where the clamp will set to hold the hose on.

As far as I can tell the extension off the radiator is fine and the hose is on right.

No, you wont damage your speakers by underpowering them. Dont run your HU volume so high its clipping and youll be fine.

Get one of these

I have $30 k in cash ready to buy a car , has to be 4 door , doesn't have to be fast but at least 0-60 in 7 sec or less, reliable and has to be 2010 + . What should I get ?

whats the best 2015-2017 minivan?

Nah someone in town has a merkur that they say has been sitting a few years buy the body looks great

Where did the term HONKEY come from?

Is HONKEY a word for anyone that honks a lot?

Or is HONKEY from a specific group of people that honks a lot?

Or is HONKEY related to a certain type of car that honks a lot?

>Want to get into cars so I'm looking for a guide that can give me an overview on how cars work, engines, different types etc. Anything you think I should know.
>Looking for text guides

Check out the automobile books torrent thread in /t/. Many books in the three torrents.

...

i have some decals that run on the left and right of my doors. theyve been on there for atleast 12 years. my car has been mostly garaged parked and taken care of. my question is, i want to take the decals off can polish but im worried the ghosting left behind maybe too severe to be buffed out. thoughts? should i just live with the decals forever? repainting the areas is an option i suppose but for now the plan is just removal and polishing whats left over

Changed my oil today. When I had it tied up and started the engine, for maybe a second and a half there was this clacking/knocking noise, then it went away immediately. I'm guessing it was the working parts were dry until the new oil was moved through them, but is this a sign of anything bad in the motor? Is there some step I skipped that led to this, and did I damage anything in the motor by doing this? The car is an 03 Grand Marquis with about 134k miles on it.

I was about to say dirty pushrods can cause that, but Mod's were dohc.

Try some Lucas next time, your upper engine probably has some decent wear on it, might be due for a new chain tensioner too.

The fading is definitely going to leave an imprinted area after 12 years, I imagine. Polish isn't really going to do you much good. It might not be too bad, seeing as the car has been out of the sun, but there's a better-than-good chance it'll be noticeable. If you don't mind paying for a decent re-spray, though, I wouldn't worry too much about it.

Gonna need some detail to help you. If you don't care, just buy a civic.

It sounded almost like it was coming from the lower end. Are you talking about the oil stabilizer they sell?

I want to wire up some JDM projector fogs and cornering lights to my car, and I can't use the stock wiring for one set since it's only wired for one set of fogs. Will this wiring setup + a junkyard OEM switch work for the missing side? I plan on reusing the original wiring and switch for the cornering lights (which are 35W 1156 bulbs) since they take about as much or less power as the original fogs do, and the 85W H3s I want to put in the projectors take more so I'll make a heavier duty harness for them.

I'm already paying a car note @ $350 a month for the next 4 years but I could also get one of these at a really good deal. Am I being silly or not? It's an immediate family member's car who doesn't need it anymore with 70,000 miles.

Depends. What's the car you have now?

2014 Mustang. V6 :[

>buying an old BMW with no warranty

beat me to it. You're getting a car that's 5 years older than the one you have, and 8 years old already. 70k isn't a lot, but unless your Mustang has a gorillion miles, it really doesn't make sense. Aside from that, I'm going to guess than a BMW costs way more to keep up with, and the depreciation is going to hit harder than it would with the Mustang. The V6 isn't the end of the world; plenty of bolt-on performance to make you happier.

Did those engines still have the fuel pump issue in 2009? Id look into that at least, but also your 2014 v6 Mustang isnt as bad as you probably think it is

Yea, y'all are right. Upkeep on BMW's is the worst. The plan would be to keep both cars, thinking I would probably get the BMW for ~$4k or 5k (maybe even free), but it's still not worth it repairing it.

Decided to check Veeky Forums before washing my car and going to bed. I have to be up in 6 hours.

>It sounded almost like it was coming from the lower end. Are you talking about the oil stabilizer they sell?
Oil treatment, but yeah. If it is coming from the lower end (unlikely, you would hear it aways, and it would sound like it was coming from the pan, not the block. Piston rods and cylinders are good at echoing upper engine noises) it'd be more likely main bearings, which you shouldn't have to worry about on the 4.6 until 300k+, or if you added boost.
With less than 150k, a mod shouldn't have major engine problems (except the normal gasket leaks). Just throw some of the Lucas molasses in there. It's pretty much a requirement on every Chrysler olf past 140k, and really does keep 'em going.
The thick oil hangs on to critical engine components during dry starts, and the additives keep your lubricants lubricating.

Looks good to me m8. 30A fuse is a bit excessive though if I understand you right. Also whats the always on light down at the bottom?

That's the little on/off indicator light on the switch, and it should be switched by the fog switch. Would a 15 or 20 amp fuse be better? A wattage to amps calculator said 170W at 12v is 14.1A, would a 15A fuse be cutting it too close?

Waxing the car will hide a lot of the slight ghosting. The shine does a lot. Another is that no one is looking at your car closer than five feet since they are in their own cars.

Ok. The way you have it in your diagram, the indicator light on the switch will always be on. Not sure whether its a mistake in circuit or diagram design, but the wire on the ground end of your light should connect up on the other side of your switch in the diagram.

Generally you want the continuous load of your circuit to be no more than 75% of the fuse's rating, so a little above that is best. A 20A should do the job fine.

Ah, shit that's what I get for trying to do this while tired after work. Fixed it.

In Sc if your 18 do you have to get your learners first or can i just go take the test and get my actual licence? please help me

Can I refill the manual tranny fluid on my 03 Mustang GT through the shifter by removing the shifter?

Why would you want to do that? There is a fill plug on the side of the gearbox specifically to dump oil in it

VW Golf V 2.0 FSI 150 bhp. Yay or nay ?

Coolant's been leaking out of my car like a pissing drunkard whenever it's at operating temps. It's coming from the right side of the radiator. I've tried UV dye and all that and I can't find the exact spot. Would stop-leak help or should I just bite the bullet and get a new radiator?

1998 Oldsmobile intrigue

Lexus IS200/300 or BMW 325i?

Explain your reasoning

I'm in need of a good dash cam for my car and I need recs. I also have a passing interest in getting a CB radio just for emergency purposes and I have even less of a clue of where to go for those than I do with dash cams.

Does anyone here live in the USA and use a dashcam? Do you use both front and rear facing cameras?

Is there anything I should know about lane splitting? Any tips or general advice?

BMW 325i has garbage reliability compared to the Lexus. BMW 325i has garbage reliabilty compared to anything actually if you go for the E90 325i with the N52/N53 engine.
The E46 325i with the M54 engine is one superb car tho.
The Lexus is more boring tho.

Would you say the E46 is the best gen then? Regarding both cars, what year would you go for?

the E46 325i is older technology, it's only real downside is the heavy oil consumption ( about 1L/1000km is normal fuel consumption and you can't do anything about it ). Other than that, it's a spectacular engine with great overall reliability.
You, my american friend, got only the N54 325i engine in the E90, which is know to be one of the worst engines of all time : Fuel pumps fail every 30k km, timing issues, intercooler fails, injector fails. Crap engine.

Stay away from the N engines.

Fuck, that sucks. Well, I do appreciate the help greatly. I'll just need a bit more info on the IS200/300 before I make my decision, which hopefully somebody can help me on

Just make sure the leak is indeed coming from the radiator and change it, I wouldn't trust those stop leak fluids, they have always given me the impression of simply being a thing that spreads gunk all over the engine

Just get urself an E46. With the money you would spend on an E90, you could get a really nice E46 loaded with toys and proper maintainance. Apart from the oil consumption, the engine is made out of granite.

Is it bad for the transmision to "manually" shift with an auto? I mean using the L 2 D and overdrive for fourth gear.

No, they gave you the ability to use those features specifically to break your transmission and fuck up your car

Only do it when traffic is stopped, and only do it in California

1996 Corolla or Honda Accord as a first shitbox? I can't decide

I've got a naturally aspirated diesel peugeot, and when trying to start up the car at colder temperatures like 32 degrees F and below, the engine struggles to run before it warms up, it keeps sputtering - RPM's keep jumping down, sometimes making the engine stall at colder temperatures unless i give it some gas. The starter turns completely fine, and it clears up once the engine is warmed up a bit in a few minutes. Maybe the injectors are wearing out?

Glow plugs?

having an annoying little issue on my b14 200sx, seems like some electrical retardation is going on but idk.
>cruising in any gear, usually between 2-3k rpm
>clutch in/throw in neutral when coming to a stop, say
>instead of settling gently at idle speed the engine bogs down violently, sometimes even stalls
>rises back to regular idle after a few seconds
>doesn't happen every time, but more often than not
cleaned my MAF and VSS. changed out plugs, wires, dizzy cap, rotor button, and air filter with OEM-quality parts. needless to say, the car runs great now but none of these things fixed the stalling issue. what's my next step? I don't wanna keep throwing money at this stupid little issue if it's something that can be fixed easily with one new sensor.

pic related glorious shitbox

1.6 or 2.0 liter?

1.6 unfortunately. a sr20 swap may very well be in the future though

Clean the IAC valve

A guy I know is selling a 2008 S63 AMG for just $22k and I'm kinda tempted to pull my trigger at it. It contains almost every options ticked and is RWD and has a 6.3L V8.

I know the maintenance costs may fuck me up but how often does these maintenances(break downs) take place? I have never owned an AMG let alone any German car. I currently own a 2010 Camry and has a job that pays me a decent 58k per year. Should I do this? What are your opinions?

The interior looks well taken care of!

Alright Veeky Forums. I'm looking for something manual, easy to work on, and rwd for maximum dorifto.

Should I snag a 1983 Celica GT-S I found on my local craigslist for $3,000, an $850 1985 Celica GT that was running when parked in 2001, hunt for a not-yet-trashed 240sx, or just break down and get a Miata?

Corolla, it's the classic shitbox for a reason.

Miata should be your plan B, because it's a piece of shit for faggots. It can drift though.

Best first car for a £1000 and under in the UK?

4 seats is mandatory and 5 doors is preferable (but ofc I'm open to change, I accept I have a small budget.)

Mk4/5 Fiesta
Cheap, nimble, durable and both 3 and 5 doors

Thank you, I was previously considering a 1.4 Polo or Golf, is the Fiesta an improvement on this choice?

I don't have experience on Polos, but I have a lot of experience on Fiestas since the mk3 and they are some sturdy little cars.
Get the 1.3 if you want something more durable (same engine as the Ka and mk3 Fiesta), get the 1.25 or 1.4 (Zetec family, Yamaha engines) if you want something a bit more fun, at the expense of a terrible fuel consumption.
The mk5 also had a 1.8 turbo diesel that is just an underpowered version of the one found on the Focus of the same period, fucking bulletproof engine that pulls hard and drinks nothing, except for the high pressure pump that had an habit of blowing up at 190/200k km and leave you with no fuel.

Thanks for your advice user, I'll do some further research.

Also, how many miles should I look for on these?

The upper ball joints on my 03 explorer need replacing. Mechanic quoted me at $400. Is this something I can do myself with parts from the junkyard or should I leave it to the experts? I'm pretty handy but the only car work I've ever done was replacing my door. I'd love to get more experience though.

youtu.be/7HdJ8DgvNmY

I could also just buy a new control arm if y'all think it's a better idea than the junk yard

autopartswarehouse.com/shop_years/ford-explorer-control-arm-2003.html

Low mileage is unlikely considering the youngest mk5 is 15 years old now.
I've seen 1.2s and 1.4s reaching 500k with just basic maintenance, 1.3s are even better, but they tend to suffer from noisy valve rockers and generally require a tiny bit more maintenance than the others.

Just make sure they have been maintained, look under the oil cap for yellow gunk (avoid if found). If you go for diesels, find someone with a lot less than 200 or a bit more, as that is the time when fuel pumps fail, if it hasn't failed at 200k then it won't fail

Mk5s also have a sporty version with a 100hp 1.6 which is a bit rarer and probably expensive.

That'll be the whole upper arm so a newb should be able to pull that off no problem.

And buy the new arm, they don't last for shit anyway so a junkyard piece will be almost worn out anyway

Anywhere besides rockauto to buy parts online? The prices seem alright until you get to the shipping. $7 shipping seems crazy for two tiny tie rod ends, especially considering it will take a week to get here.

Nothing compared to the $32 shipping for next day

What mods would be best bang for the buck on a 4.0 V6? I mostly want more low end hp, but I don't want a supercharger or 5.0 swap.

For someone in the US, whats a good first car, and how much should i expect in fucking costs like insurance and maintenance?

I use rockauto.com for a part number catalog and Amazon with prime for the actual ordering

$3k civic, not much at all