Rust Repair

Hey Veeky Forums, I recently received a car as a gift from a family member. It's a car that I like a good amount and it's relatively rare, but it has some pretty bad rust on it.
Most of the rust is on fenders and doors that I can easily replace, but there is some along the bottom of the body.
The front jack points are completely gone, and the rear quarters are also kinda messed up.
I'm confident welding new sheet metal into the rear quarter panels, but do you have any advice on fixing that rust along the rocker panels/frame rails?
>pic related, not the car but similar

I really don't want to hear "it's too far gone" because it's something that I want to keep for at least a little while.

>i dont want to hear the truth
r u a boomer?

it's moderately easy to cut new frame rails and weld if you're a somewhat seasoned welder with the right equipment and metal

rocker panels can be done by a novice

Get a donor car and cut out the sections you need to replace on the one you're keeping and weld them in. Though by that point it may just be easier to swap the good stuff from yours to the donor. Either way isn't economical for anything but the rarest of cars but whatevs mang

you can fix anything with enough time and money.
just get in there and weld it.

if it's rusted that damn bad on the fucking frame, i'd hate to see the rest of it.

You could conceivably weld and fab it all up to repair it, but if you had the skill to do that you wouldn't be posting on here asking what to do.

Sell it to someone who knows what they're doing.

question 1: do you have a welder?

2: do you know how to use it?

Yeah I think I will get a donor car. It's the wagon version of a relatively common sedan and I think everything from the C pillar forward can be used. I'll have to check.
Yeah I have a small Lincoln Electric MIG. I haven't used it a lot but it's a learning experience yeah?

The car was free so this is more of a fun project to do while I'm in school than anything else.

> learning experience
> reconstructing the frame of a vehicle

You don't know me

Keep in mind that when dealing with structural components it's important to keep the body supported and level so that you don't build-in a twist or other contortion

Cut out the rot and weld in new metal. You should really go over any structural part with a ball peen though, rust is always worse then it appears. That one small section may not be so small after all.

Yeah I plan to go over everything with a wire wheel on my Dremel to find where all the rust really is.

desu OP if the rust is that bad onj the frame rails, don't attempt.
If it's just on the rockers and non structural stuff, good luck.

I'm sure pretty much everything in your original pic will need replaced. It's rusting from the inside out, and you can see the rust growing through the paint.

You don't know shit.

That pic isn't the car, it's just something I found that I thought would be a catchy OP pic.
It's more like this, but not along the whole base of the rocker panel, just on the ends afaik.

You're asking if you can do it when you know you can at least attempt it, go for it.

FUCKING DIE YOU FAGGOT.
>it looks like this but it ain't this. Help me plox.

DIIIEEEEEEE

I DON'T HAVE ANY PICTURES YOU ASSHOLE IT'S NOT AT MY HOUSE

Fuck the rocker panel, start stressing about the frame.

If you go and hack out the rusted sections of frame and refit with steel and weld without taking care as to the preload on the chassis and straightness, you are going to have a bad time.

If you are hoping to learn how to weld with a basic gasless MIG by repairing your chassis, you are going to have a bad time.

If it's a monocoque chassis, you are going to have a really bad fucking time.

Rocker panels and other panels are fine to learn on, just cut and shut.

you'd have to strip the car and check, is it really worth repairing and can you do it properly
but if it's all over because you live in a place with salted roads, or it just had constant water leak and too far gone you'll probably have a lot more rust

rust in seams/sections of 2 metal joined together (water gets in and stuck, rusts in between but cant see much of it), or parts near suspension/mounts etc. where it needs strength.
if it's all over then you'll have to get it all out otherwise it'll just come back.
sand blast is best way to see how rust affected the car really is though
if it's isolated into certian areas due to a certian leak it wont be as bad
either way any rust you have to find why it happened (could be a leak, like ill fitting panel) and then also get rid of the rust so it doesn't come back (if you don't, in 2-3 years it'll be back as bad as it used to be).

if it's all over and a cheap car then wouldn't bother unless you want to do it for sake of trying to restore a car. if its a car thats valuable then just leave it to someone else if you can't put in time/costs of doing it (and if it is doable, and you have fabrication skills/knowledge to do it)

id say if its on the frame rails as bad as that pic its not worth it unless the car is over 20k+ type of rare (which i'd say would be around low end collectible car in alright condition). even if it is, if you can't do it properly then you'd just have a polished turd and it wont last or be safe

I'll hijack the thread for a bit.
Currently working on the body of a Corsa B Sport for the sake of learning. Rain here is rare and road salt is unheard of, so the body is pretty much rust-free, save for a couple minor spots. However it suffers from the B pillar crack, which is a common defect on these (pic related isnt mine, but it's the same issue).
I already learned just welding the crack isn't enough, it will come back after a few months. Some mention welding a strenghtening plate inside the pillar, but after removing the interior trim I noticed a 2nd inside skin in the pillar, so I have no access to the crack from inside.
Would it work if the plate is welded on the outside instead, over the crack? The location is just behind the door, so it would cover it when closed. Basically I would work as:

>grind till fresh metal
>drill both ends of the crack (prevent it from spreading further)
>weld then grind to shape
>weld plate on top of the crack

I'd cut a patch off the pillar, weld a reinforcment bar behind the pillar, then reweld the patch I cut off in back in place.

Come back when you're ready then, dingus.

That's something I thought of, but it would require me to cut through 2 metal sheets to reach the outer one, the gap on the inner sheet is not large enough that I can fit a welder through, and as I said, there is a 3rd one inside the pillar, all the way to the quarterpanel.
Pic related is a quick mspaint, back-to-front view of what's inside the pillar. I'll think about this one though, and how I can pull it off. Still open to more suggestions.