Bad thing that only happens to your shitbox

>changing air filter
>acorn from above tree unknowingly falls into air intake
>after 5 minutes on the road engine jumps to full throttle and sticks there as i'm approaching a T intersection

Kek, my '95 altima shitbox is exactly like that.

>change oil every 3k miles
>throws TCS error code
>car doesn't have traction control

>driving in rain
>ABS light comes on
>car doesn't have ABS

Chrysler, y u do dis?

Bad luck bro

It's throwing it in your face.

potholes

whenever im the passenger i swear i never see or feel them, but as soon as i get behind the wheel its like the earth just opens up around me

>implying I want either of those
>implying I need either of those

FWD in snow is fine if you know how to drive, and ABS increases braking distance in slick/wet conditions.

With studs on it, the PT Cruiser is fucking fun winter car, and is tame if you don't push it.

>only runs with the map sensor and idle air control unplugged
>quick, hard turn left makes the horn beep just a little
>tuneleaf extractors melt the knock sensor once every 6-8 months
>Interior lights always on unless you have the headlights on

>turn on running lights
>tailights are on
>turn on headlights
>tailights turn off
its either get my ass plowed cuz nobody sees me or i plow someone cuz i cant see anything

>work outside.
>Squire jumps in engine bay
>Not sure where it went in there but i smell something
How the fuck.

>quick turn makes the horn beep a little
Thats pretty cute.

The ladies love it, m8

>drive between 50-55mph
>light shaking in front end

i dont even know what it is desu, so i just dont drive at those speeds

>work truck
>transmission shifts hard as a motherfucker from 1st to second
>knocks the rearview mirror out of the position I want
>shifting also opens pull-out cupholders
>all other shifts are smooth as butter

>shift 2nd to 3rd, smooth
>3rd to 4th, smooth
>4th to 5th, smooth as butter
>hit every rev match shifting from 5-3 simply by stabbing the gas and letting go
>shift from 1st to second
>CLUNK, JERK
>shift from 3rd to 2nd
>never hit the rev match. always too little gas unless I tap it twice

I don't know if I'm doing something wrong or if there's something up with my car. Seems like the ratio between 2nd and every other gear is totally different.

Cops always have it out for me

Fucking let the revs drop more. 1st to 2nd will usually be half the RPMs, so if you rev to 4000 in 1st you'll wanna hit about 2000ish in 2nd.

>need friend to sit in passenger seat and wipe my windows from inside if it's a rainy day
Luckily we only get three a year

This fucker here .

Worst offender was a girl who would throw her back right on the center console. She got the message when I shifted to 4th and smacked her bag to the trunk . Fucking whore .

Bag not back fucking phoneposting

Get your wheels balanced user

Also:

>Make any sharp turn
>seatbelt light comes on

>shift to reverse
>high-beams come on

Maybe if my shitbox wasn't a PT Cruiser with 130k I wouldn't have these issues.

>ignition switch sometimes get stuck inbetween the cranking position and the on position
>impossible to sell because everything inside the car works fine
>but all of the exterior lights don't work

Then stop being a nigger.

passenger hits their head on my wink mirror, every fucking time

Chrysler: where the factory wiring reminds you of someone stealing electricity in Pakistan.

>squire

Did you at least defeat the opposing knight?

Crankcase female threads for drain plug always strip...

What car? My Peugeot 205 used to do that as well. A new closing mechanism helped for a while, but then the problem came back. I fixed is by moving the rails a few cm back. Now the problem is that the window doesn't properly close, leaving a tiny gap at the back, so I have to tap the down button for it to straighten out.

Some retard overtaking on a straight but then holding me up in the corner (because I obey the speed limit but people think a shitbox will slow them down)
Some retard slowing down to a crawl over speed humps when I have no issue taking them at the speed limit

>2080 - 63
>not having a timing chain

rev matching is a meme for burgers. you dont need to it, just clutch in, shift clutch slowly out and the rpm will increase for itself if you get slower, or the amout of time you need to shift is enough time for the rpm to drop down to revmatch for the higher gear if youre accelerating

Shit bait. 0/10

>cup holder isn't deep enough to keep medium-sized or larger drinks stable while turning
>cup holder too wide to keep small drinks stable

>steering knuckle is warped
>nothing else is broken

how does this happen

>have to turn on brights and my left blinker, THEN hit the windshield fluid button for it to squirt

its your control arm bushings. bmw?

>engine dies while i'm on the highway 2 or 3 times
>sometimes i'll kill the ignition, then try to start the car back up and it just doesn't move for anywhere between 10 minutes and 2 hours.
>these two problems can happen together

It took me 2 years to figure out what the fuck was going on, but god damn am I happy I did.

only cup holder i can fit a can in is next to my elbow in the middle, so i end up with little splashes of energy drink on my elbow, and if i forget to wipe it off properly i end up getting a sticky elbow and look like a retard when i try and lick it clean.

30k miles or 3 years for mine. Plus there are 2 belts that have to be replaced, the one for timing and the one for the balance shaft.

>bad things that happen to your car
I get all the ladies.

In my canyon, the brake sometimes activated the left turn signal. But only ever once until the truck is restarted.

In my charger, EVERYTHING FUCKING SQUEAKS HOLY FUCK. And there is a vibration I can't fucking pinpoint from the right hand front side whenever I go over bumps. Checked everything i could think of.

In my F150, nothing works. I don't think that's just related to mine though, pretty sure it's a Ford thing.

>shifts gear too hard
>shifter snaps off again
>glues it back on. with epoxy every week
>works fine for me until I let friend drive it
>he snaps shifter
>shifter is now missing altogether because he lost it

How do I know you drive a Porsche?

>shift into drive
"Ker-KLUNK"
>mechanic says tranny and diff are fine.

Also:
>brakes spongy, pedal-to-floor just to stop
>bleed brakes
>back to the same in 3 days
>bring to shop
>new lines and pads, and a fresh bleed
>back to before after 2 days
Maybe Master cylinder? What could it be?

>Boot unlocks randomly at bumps
>Torque steers like a motherfucker
>Cockpit lamp leaks
>Takes forever to warm up
>Cable clutch from a Super5 because Renault said fuck it
>Beyond 130kmph steering wheel has a seizure

inshallah

You'll be saying inshallah very often with this

>below freezing
>driving down highway
>check engine light starts flashing at autism speeds (normally you can bridge a connection on the harness to make it go into diagnostic mode and flash codes, which is not nearly as fast)
>manage to record it a few times
>always a bunch of different unrelated codes that half the time don't even pertain to the vehicle im driving

>front two cupholders are in tiny cubby under the radio
>they can only fit a regular can of soda
>one larger cupholder on back of center console
>odd raised ring in the bottom that no fast food cup fits into or around
>always forget my drink if i use the rear cupholder

At 70-85mph steering wheel shakes like a mofo
2010 golf

Replaced all the struts and strut mounts, balanced and replaced tires, wheel alignment, checked wheel bearing. Don't know wtf to do:( maybe it's a bug in the electronic power steering?

ZR?
i have the same issue except the door cup holders fit most stuff but i always catch my leg on it

It's trying to make you feel bad about buying the base model with no ABS/TC

>Driving 130km/h
>Suddenly no power
>Stop at the side of the road
>Engine is obviously running on three cylinders
>Remove coilpack and check sparkplugs
>One plug is missing the complete tip
>fuckfuckfuck.avi
>Hoping it left through the exhaust port before doing any damage

>Friend brings a sparkplug
>Start car
>Heavy knocking and almost no power
>Press F to pay respect

Fuck Bosch, those sparkplugs weren't even 5k km old.

>Be le French engineer working for Renault
>Assigned with the task of designing a remote entry system for the refreshed Twingo
>Instead of going with radio frequency remotes like literally every single manufacturer on the planet does, design a system with an IR led like a TV remote
>Can't foresee that after 18 years and thousands of presses, user, the 6th owner of the aforementioned Twingo, will have to hold the key in a very specific spot near the windshield and press the unlock button with both his thumbs in order to get into his car
>Oh, also immobilizer doesn't deactivate if you unlock the car using the key hole on the door, it must be unlocked with the remote BECAUSE FUCK YOU THAT'S WHY

Passengers pull the door latch rod towards the center of the car instead of pulling it forward bending it out of shape leaving me with a piece of metal pointing me in the face. This is usually after i tell them the seat belt bolts are only in hand tight.

>everything but the gas gauge doesn't work except once a week
>shift from 1 to 2 is harsh
>accelerating out of a turn means the driveshaft slip yoke clunks really loudly
>vacuum leak means the idle is uneven, brakes want to creep forward at a stop unevenly
>front A/C panel with the knobs in it is loose
>radio buttons are painted with something that flakes off after you touch them too much
>dashboard also has stuff on it that flakes off

fucking GM

>o manual gods i pray to u this day
>please let first gear fucking go in without me having to fidget around for 10 seconds

>dashboard lit up like a christmas tree
>engine light
>service light
>oil light (i changed my fucking oil)
>some other shit
>more shit
>hit pothole
>all lights go out
>this was about 45k miles ago

n-no reason to worry, right?

>turn signal lever to left
>depress brake pedal
>everything powers up

>energy drink
WRX driver detected

>Rear windows don't roll down

>Winter hits, it's cold
>Steering fights when I make my first turns in the morning
>Figure that it's just the cold causing problems, so I let my car warm up more
>Car runs fine
>For a while
>Every now and then, the steering will fight me for no reason until I complete a full turn in either direction
>Replaced all power steering-related parts and changed fluid
>Problem is still there

>Had problems with battery
>Have to go TAKE THE FRONT LEFT TIRE OFF to change the battery
Fuck Chrysler

Fuck the SEBRING.

>Magnetically get objects, cars, and other objects attracted to my car
>Engine rattle like a diesel when it's a gas shitbox
>Existential dread in a soulless machine

Don't get me wrong, I bought that car for $600 at 15000 miles and with the amount of abuse I've put that car through, I'm surprised that it still runs. It's been pretty reliable, but sometimes it acts like a total cunt.

>CEL on for some bullshit evap leak
>Been on since I bought the car three years ago
>CEL goes off, still goes on and off for test at startup
>Plug in code reader
>3 error codes

Man. I took my drivers test in my mom's PT. It just sits in the driveway as her "backup car" in case anything happens to her 2010 C300.

The foglights and interior lights all had to be disconnected for killing the battery. The drivers seat adjustment lever broke off. The trunk latch broke off. The entire dashboard is cracked to a million pieces. The leather started peeling and cracking....

Car has 120k miles on it.

Never again Chrysler.

Maybe it's a leak in the brake booster?

Idk, never had this problem yet

> Everything okay
> Clutch completely soft next day
> Have to vacuum out all the air

>girlfriend was previous owner
>drove it

WRX swapped 1992 Legacy sedan, with straight pipe because i was a cheap nigger and welded my own.

NEW INTERIOR RATTLE EVERY FUCKING WEEK.

> Suzuki
> 200k+ miles
> Literally no problems with the car

Why do people dislike it tho?
Ultimate shopping cart.

Replaced the rack and pinion 3 times its leaking again.

>tach shows 600RPM
>feels like 600RPM
>idle should be 850RPM
>Tech II says 850RPM, which is what the ECU sees
>replaced everything including all vacuum hoses, no change
Might be the ECU for the abhorrent 1st gen throttle-by-wire (1992 vintage so you know it'll be fun). Those are impossible to find. I'll have to hook a scope to the CPS to really know what's going on.

>driving along
>hit pothole
>tailgate window smashes
>tailgate flies open
>the force of a heavy ass gate bends all the hinges
>the rust warps the skin, fucking all the mounting points
old wagons are shit for this reason, instead of top opening hatch like new wagons they instead have a ute/truck tailgate with a retracting window to seal it
>pic related

The lights issue is shitty

That is not OLD, it's like prehistoric. Holy fuck.

You could just take out the globe
>70's is prehistoric
>>>/Kindergarten/

Something similar happened to me in my AR147 it happened in -20C thou so I'm willing to forgive it that. Started even with first start.
Annoyances:
>One thing gets fixed another one breaks
>Recently drivers electric window broke
>Boot light doesn't work for some mysterious reason, yet the booth lid open/closed indicator works
>Motor Control system failure due to probably dirty egr.
>New radio doesn't fit perfectly,
>reverse gear has issues pulling car up a hill
>Rubber on the clutch pedal keeps falling off, even after i glued damn thing. Hopefully replacing to metal covers will fix this.
> Passangers electric window control switch is twitchy, you need to push it in specific way for it to open, no issues with closing.

> driving a T-Model
> not prehistoric
>> children

kek

that's like every car.
I always buy packs of 0,5L bottles and I have to use tissues to keep them from falling over.

also for some reason Ford makes big ass side holders on the doors. they are too big for a 0,5L bottle, but too small for a 1,5L.

for what purpose.

They weren't bad cars from a design standpoint, but they suffer from absolute shit build quality because lolChryslerCorp. There were some things that the engineers totally dropped the ball on, it seems the major issue with most of the PTs (all Chryslers from this era really) is the electrical/computer system. Mine is the base model, so there's less shit to fail.

Also, turning radius the size of Texas.

>One plug is missing the complete tip
kek

What car was that?

my wagonr does the same at 65mph, so far I think it must be the tires. will replace them with summer tires soon anyway.
but, my sister drove it and also curbed it when I lent it to her so...yeah. I can only hope.

>>shifter is now missing altogether because he lost it
HOW

The gears in our new Transit are so fucking weird.
1st has "holes" where the van just jumps, no matter how smooth you push the pedal.
2nd is so slow, you can almost never switch back to it when going slow, 1st is absolutely no-no, it even "locks" you out.

What the fuck, Ford.

>clutch is completely fine in dry weather
>as soon as there is any rain, clutch becomes completely soft and feels completely different
>clutch is completely fine the next day after drying

>Car idles at almost 2K on a cold start, idles normally once warmed up
>Clean IAC and throttle body
>Check for vaccuum leaks, cant find any
>Still idles at 1.5K afterwards
>Random rattling in the rear that happens every so often
>Still cant nail down what the fuck is going on with either of them

Could be worse i guess, my alternator is on its last legs though.

>turn on car
>hear cat screaming
>ohfuckohfuck
>turn off and go look
>cats paw got gored by the AC belt

Why the fuck was a cat there what the fuck

like this?

youtube.com/watch?v=RgNLJLZKjos