QTDDTOT / SQT

Questions That Don't Deserve Their Own Threads Thread.

Ask your Veeky Forums related short sensible or dumbass questions and wait for an answer.
>Please consider finding your answer on Google first and then when you are hopeless, come here.

Also when you have posted your question, scroll through the thread for questions that you may know an answer to.

>Check for General Threads in Catalog because there is a big chance that you'll get a specific and detailed answer for your question there than when you ask here.

Previous QTDDTOT Thread -

Other urls found in this thread:

tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/traveller-wiring-install-kit?cm_vc=-10005
tessco.com/yts/industry/products/itm/automotive/get_wired.html
jerseyshore.craigslist.org/cto/6039190234.html
twitter.com/NSFWRedditVideo

So I got me CEL checked out and it threw a gas emissions code. All I had to do was change the gas cap, right?

Nope. Now it's back on and it keeps throwing the same signal. Any ideas why?

Would a white car yellow significantly over a few years? I have a 4-ish year old 335i and the alpine white seems a bit tan compared to other white cars and especially snow, not sure if the color is like that naturally or if it took a ton of UV damage/oxidized.

I found a used 2017 Acura ILX for sale.
According to the Carfax, owner bought it, drove it for a month, and sold it.
It's got less than 1000 miles on it.

I'm suspicious as fuck right now.
1. Why would they do that?
2. How much do you think I could get the dealer to knock off of it since it's "used"?

Also was a lease (I only bought it a month or so ago) so I'm doubting heavy amounts of preventative measures were taken

It's a rebadged Honda; by that I mean there's minimal changes between that and Honda models, not in the same way idiots say Lexus is a rebadged Toyota. Seriously don't buy an Acura, especially when you're going to pay significant amounts of depreciation on it

Truck doesn't start. Cranks, quickly slows, no clicks when stopped. Battery is fully charged. Starts when jumped. What are my chances it roars to life when I smack the start with a hammer?

>It's a rebadged Honda
That's why I want it, user.

That's one hell of an upcharge for an elevated trim levels, user. At least Lexus has its own actual model lines.

It's only about $3k more than a new Civic.

I wanted something a little more fun to drive, and I've heard nothing but bad things about Honda's CVTs (which aren't in their Acura lineup).
The Accord V6 is the only one without the CVT but that's way out of my budget.

You could just not buy a new econobox. Save yourself a 50% depreciation hit and buy something 3-4 years old (Mazda is basically a premium econobox make, would recommend). Unless you absolutely know what car you want after doing tons of research, ruling out any alternatives, buying a new car is a massive waste of money, especially an econobox and Honda's been going full retard lately anyway.
>hurr poorfag
I bought my car used for about 8k more than what a Civic starts at new

>You could just not buy a new econobox
Not new.

The money you'll be out is pretty close to if it was new. Keep in mind a luxury ("luxury") car will depreciate harder

Which Acura seats will bolt into a 2003 Honda Civic sedan?

Could anyone tell me if this wiring relay is ok to use with a fan? Its a spal fan that is rated at 13 Amps. I would probably shorten any wires that I could as those are gonna be way longer then needed.

tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/traveller-wiring-install-kit?cm_vc=-10005

I read conflicting stuff, The chart at the bottom of this page says it should be fine but people on forums recommend much lower gauge wiring

tessco.com/yts/industry/products/itm/automotive/get_wired.html

hmmm

How about a 2014 Lexus IS 250?
Same price, but has 40k miles and a 200hp V6

Way better; proper luxury (I honestly hold it higher than MB) and with a 2014 you'd avoid eating most of the sharp depreciation curve while still buying something reasonably new.

If you look both up, ILX reviews are abysmal whereas LS 250 are pretty good.

Ok Veeky Forums I have a question. I have just installed an aftermarket shift knob and a boot. My issue though is the space between the top of the boot and the knob as shown in pic related. Do any of you have a solution for this? Thanks in advance!

contact the manufacturer

Already been on the website and no help there

is there a Veeky Forums Telegram group?

if not is someone up to one?

pick up the telephone

post the code

My AW11 makes a squeaking sound when reversing. Only at very slow speeds, any idea?

I hate how I know this is going to sound but my social anxiety won't let that be an option. For example even when I do something like order pizza I use a script

nfw.
fuck it here's your new script:
>pick up phone
>dial sparco
>YOU FUCKING FUCKERS YOU FUCKED UP MY SHIFTER ITS A PIECE OF SHIT YOU FUCKS IT DOESNT EVEN LINE UP I HAVE A (XX CAR) MY ORDER NUMBER IS (XXX) I DEMAND A (refund or replacement or explanation)
>Wait for response.

Done.

Call them

That unfortunately won't help. The knob is sparco but the boot is from vms racing. I emailed vms about it.

See

Use a metal or rubber spacer and washer or something to prop it up from under. Make sure it's tight or it will rattle of course. Did the same thing on my car when I had an aftermarket boot that didn't stay pressed against the knob.

Interested in getting a LTD sedan or wagon and putting mustang nose and wheels on it for a clean looking dd.

Anything I should know about the fox platform before I dive in?

Been looking for a daily car to get me around, I generally drive about an hour daily between highway and in town.

I was looking at cars for sale and fell for a 92 Accord I saw, I'm thinking of getting it at 191000km at 2k, its been saftied already. Am I making a mistake if I go for it? What should I look out for if I go see it?

Perfect solution! Thanks user!

So I think I see an R32 parked outside a house near me, would it be weird/unacceptable to quickly snap some pictures or should I ask permission first? Or should I do neither because it's just a car?

>DDing an LTD
maybe ten years ago but parts are hard to come by now

You need to know the amp draw of the fan, the relay should be higher than it.
If you're talking about an electric cooling fan, I think I used 40 amp relays and 10 gauge wire, you should be fine.

Can anyone recommend any textbooks or stuff like that to learn about combustion engines, power transfer, or literally anything related? Introductory stuff is preferred, but I'm a third year mechanical engineering student so in depth books would be cool.

Where can I find a miata engine for under 500 dollars?

it's just a car whatcha gonna do with the pictures? keep them in your phone and never look at them

Check grindr

...

What? I'm sure you could do "favors" for one

From last thread. To the anons that replied to me:
Already replaced pump maybe a month ago. Did the fuel filter a week ago. Any ideas where to start looking for electrical issues? Obviously going to check the fuel pump, but what else?

what car and year?
have you checked fuel pressure?

What the fuck is this thing?

92 firebird, havent checked that yet

had a similar issue on my old truck, turned out to be a few issues, one was a bad pump with horrible pressure output, second part was the pressure regulator for the fuel was failing to a lower pressure and starving the engine out.
when it wont start can you smell any raw gas in the exhaust?
can you verify if there is any spark next time as well?
before we can help you nail it down we need some basic diagnostic information

thats a wire, user

I have a question for one of you wise anons.
I bought a house last year around September and have made all my payments, had some credit card debt because had to buy new fridge, washer, dryer and some other shit I didn't have the cash for atm. I just paid off the debt on the credit card so all my accounts are clean except for my mortgage.

I am in need of a second car and only have about 2k cash on me. I found a clean, manual IS300 for $6500, might be able to negotiate a little but who knows. Is it even remotely possible to get a bank loan at this time or am I fucked? My credit score dropped from a solid 730 to 646 and at this moment it sits at 666 (spoopy). I have the means to make the monthly payments and can more than likely pay off the remainder by the end of the year or next tax season.

I bank with wells fargo, would I have better chance with a credit union? WF wont do auto loans on anything older than 5 years so it would have to be a personal loan and I dont want to buy anything that "new".

Thanks for reading through my rant, hope someone can offer some advice.

evap sensor

Which smells better?

Black Ice? or JDM Squash?

What are some good books about engine tuning math/physics?

Same question for suspension.

Go to a library that sells university books and ask for basic engineering books about ground vehicles.
Then come back home, go to bookzz.org and pirate them

>friend says his car is a write off
>ask how he managed that
>says he crashed into the back of someone at 20mph

i didnt ask further because we were very drunk and started talking about something else, but ill ask you Veeky Forums. how did he damage it beyond repair with a 20mph crash?

Just got into a accident recently.
>caught the faggots plates
>we pulled over
>went to go get in insurance stuff
>the fucker took off
>sheriff went to their house to try and get some info
>car wasn't there and they were playing dumb
>sheriff wrote it off as full hit-and-run crime
How likely are they gonna catch him?
The car was registered under someone else with a different last name (I'm assuming the father) and the person that was driving the car that matched my description was at the residence but said they don't drive or have a car.
The crazy part is the faggot has a twin brother.

depends on the car

but most likely the cost of damages was higher than the value of the car.

airbags themself can cost in the thousands range to replace and thats before any body damage etc

For suspension read

Milliken & Milliken - Race car vehicle dynamics.

It's about race cars, but it goes very in depth about suspension and general dynamics so you can apply most of the stuff to road cars too

How do I become a better driver?

>drive everyday
>drive an automatic corolla S 4dr fwd
>practice timing and throttle control not that it matters but do it anyway
>every now and then I take sharp turns at low to mid speeds to feel how my front tires lose their grip
>shave away at the lane lines at every curve
>try to drive with just one hand like God Arm

There aren't a lot of open parking lots where I live so I can't really let loose and try some advanced maneuvers plus my handbrake is really weird. I don't know a lot about cars other than how to change my oil or changing a tire.

Any tips/wisdom?

There's a vibration around 60mph what could it be? Do my tires need to be balanced? How do i check if my cv axle is bad if it's not clicking? Maybe ball joints, tie rod ends?
I have a05 Volvo s40 2.5T

When you're in an area where you can get away with it (ie, you're familiar with the roads, not much in the way of law enforcement or cameras, not too much traffic) plant the throttle and see how fast you can keep the car going as much as possible -- ie, you want to try to keep the throttle as close to the floor as you can, accounting for corners etc - start slower and get faster and faster

Figure out what the car will let you get away with with regards to speed around certain angles of corners

Situational awareness out your ass (though you should be doing this anyway -- look at upcoming streets for cars that might turn into your personal deathrace)

The adrenaline rush of 180 KM/h on a mountain road and having the G forces throw you into the driver side door and having the engine roaring at the same time is very exciting

You're in a corolla so you'd have to be a special kind of fuckwit to push that car beyond it's very sober limits anyway

Also this, in case you need more information on a proper "racing line"

Half the fun in driving like a fuckwit is hitting the corners and nailing the brake in/accelerate out timing perfectly

IKR XD

When reversing, say, out of a parking spot, should you halt the vehicle fully before engaging first gear? I see plenty of people putting it in first while still rolling backwards slightly. Would this damage the gearing?

Trying to shift into first while still rolling backwards (or vice versa) makes my gearbox grind (just from moving the knob -- clutch is disengaged the whole time) so I'm gonna say yes

>mfw pushing basically the same car in manual
>mfw delayed throttle response, first year they added DBW
>mfw the handling
>mfw the body roll
>mfw shit tires somehow lose grip in first, giving it the illusion of having more than 130hp
>mfw it begins to build actual power 500RPM before redline

if i had the money i would do thousands in headwork, airflow, and suspension just to have a decently quick corolla, even if all the power was in the top end and the engine would need rebuilt after 100k miles, but i don't, so i'd rather trade it for a better car

Also if the roads are wet speeding goes from "fun" to "legitimately pretty dangerous" unless you're quite experienced

>if i had the money i would do thousands in headwork, airflow, and suspension just to have a decently quick corolla, even if all the power was in the top end and the engine would need rebuilt after 100k miles, but i don't, so i'd rather trade it for a better car

Or drop it for a celica :^)

>buy AE112
>came with aftermarket alloys and decent tires
>has cable throttle
>feel nothing in the low rpms
>car hits about 3500-4000 rpm
>feels like it got a boot up the ass

A vibration where? The steering wheel, the brake pedal, the whole car?
Does it happen at high speed, low speed or both?
Does it happen when turning or going straight? Does turning change the amount of vibration?

When you want help on noises or vibrations, be as detailed as possible. State when, how and where the vibration/noise happens, nobody can give you suggestions if you just say that there is a vibration at 60, it could be everything.

You are just going to wear your synchros, the gear won't engage anyway until the car is standing still or going very very slow, so you might aswell wait until you are stopped, the outcome is the same but at least you are not wearing synchros for no reason

How much synchro wear do you get from clutchless shifting if it takes no appreciable effort to go into gear, mr. synchro expert?

Thanks for the wisdom. I hit a turn pretty hard tonight using a line similar to that green one in the pic. I was going pretty fast I think. Pushed my limits a little and lost my nerve a bit but didn't lose control or anything. I just wish I could do it somewhere safely you know? I can't help but think how my cornering would of turned out had I not chickened out. I feel like my brake in/accelerate out timing is intuitively getting better though.

The key to driving a car (that is, to the point where you're breaking the law but having a lot more fun) is pushing the car just a little bit further than what your'e comfortable with. You'd be very surprised what even your little econobox can do

0|---------------[x]-----------[y]---------------------------|100

[x] = what you think it can do

[y] = what it can probably actually do

It's called a track day.

Make room in your budget for new tires, and maybe new brakes, and the possibility of a new car. Show up with a 3/4 helmet and a $100 bill or three. Enjoy.

Not much, but still more than using the clutch.

You can't really get a number, synchro wear takes so long if you are not doing something completely retarded that you won't notice the difference anyway.
They will probably outlast the vehicle itself, but doing clutchless changes will wear them faster

Will look more into it. Thanks fampai.

How badly will I get laughed at for showing up in an automatic?

How much would you feasibly pay for a good honda crx?

I've done some searching and query driving for a bit I think a crx would be a cool car to use as my DD, grocery getter, you know.

"Clean" ones near me are pushing 3-4k, the sub 2k ones are nigh undrivable. Just keep looking?

How do Maseratis and Jaguars get that loud backfire sound when they start up?

Are they tuned to spit extra fuel and retard the timing on startup?

I i wanted to make my shitbox do that when it starts up what would i need?

They don't backfire at startup or anything because the exhaust isn't hot enough yet.
The noise you are hearing is just a good sounding engine and exhaust.

Pls respond

what does WOT mean

jerseyshore.craigslist.org/cto/6039190234.html

Good deal or nah?

Where can I get the quick connectors for the secondary air injection system on an '05 Envoy? I ham-handed and broke them.

i am looking to buy a used car for between £5000 to £8000 (>$10,000). i haven't driven for 10 years, i'm 35, because i was working abroad in a foreign country & i didn't need to drive.
i am in the UK.
I was looking at something sensible but boring like a Focus, but might get something impractical such as a Nissan 350Z.
Any suggestions about what might be a decent car to look at in that range? i don't want the dullest and most sensible car, but i don't want to spend a huge amount of money that i could keep in the bank.

How many miles? I have a S40 T5 also and sometimes people will throw on shit CV's during their lifespan and they'll start to fucking wobble.

CV's are going bad if you can see grease being thrown around where the boot is

>jerseyshore.craigslist.org/cto/6039190234.html
not bad for an XJ but it looks like the syncros might be on their way out

its a subsidiary of WAT

Hmm if that's the only thing that'll act up I should be alright with dropping cash on the repair costs eventually. I wish I had a mechanic friend/relative to bring with me for these kinds of things.

Describe the squeaking sound pls is it like a chirping squeak?

it's more like a wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee but not very loud and it goes away once i'm at a speed where I don't have to hold the clutch

Or, or, they just retard the timing.. It doesnt matter if the exhaust is hot or not..

Aye senpaitachi I don't want to shit up your board as this question is a personal army type deal.

My wife has an 04 Camry that intermittently starts. When it fails to start, all the lights turn on and the radio but nothing cranks with no noise whatsoever. If we wait like 45 minutes the car starts with no issue.

It did have a bad battery, which we've replaced but it still does the same shit.

What's the likely source of the intermittent start?

Thanks in advance

4K tops m8

alternator

E46 Touring 318i FL 143 bhp
Yay or nay ?

The car would be used mainly for city driving and the occasional tour around the country a few times a year.

Adding on to this it does actually sound like the motor to the starter is whirring but no cranks or anything else. Is it the solenoid?

My car manual says I shouldn't change my own bulbs if they are xenon fusion bulbs. Is it the same process as changing Halogen lights because I don't know why I shouldn't change them if they are xenon fusion.

>as this question is a personal army type deal
no it isn't, that's not what that means.

Can I sell a car with a title that was signed over to me? I don't feel like doing the title transfer at the Tag Agency

Maybe gas tank leak, my Impreza was similar. Need code tho