QTDDTOT

No question is stupid unless it's shit like "why people hate benchracers so much"

FWD - its a layout always used because it's CHEAP, less complicated and leaves more space in the interior.
FWD cars aren't slow by definition some of them are quite quick but they'd be quicker if they were RWD or AWD.
As for drifting, drifting is a controlled, prolonged oversteer, not just getting the tail out for a second.
FWD's cant drift because even if you ebrake the rear wheels they will straighten up because front wheel drive drags them back in line. FWD's can't drift unless you put rear wheels on trays.
While on rear wheel drive you get the rear wheels to lose traction and keep them on 0 grip by applying throttle. You steer it by using the throttle. Rear wheel cars can keep the tail out as long as you want.

Besides rear wheel drive has more benefits like:
>front wheels are only used for steering and braking
>weight shifting means under accelaration means rear wheels have more grip whereas on front wheel under accelaration they have less grip
>can literally have as much fucking power as you want without torque steer
>way more fun
>better steering feel
etc

Sure fwd has its uses in enthusiast world but it's like using a knife to drive in screws at this point

>going 30 around a bend
>hit some sikk fresh ice
>lose traction in old ranger and skid into curb kinda hard
>tire has big dent in it
>drove about a mile to finish my trip to work where it now sits
>5 hours later the tire is saggy at the bottom/deflated
>one thing I noticed was it was pulling to the right when I let go of the steering wheel

Any suspicious of what will need to be done? I'm changing the tire tomorrow but I'm not sure if it was pulling to the right because it knocked it out of alignment or the tire was just deflating on that side

Check to see how it feels after you replace the tire.

>FWD cars aren't slow by definition some of them are quite quick but they'd be quicker if they were RWD or AWD.
how sway

Can I assume he was overweight and in his 30s and the girl was an early 20s moderately attractive blonde?

>FWD
>souped up

lel, this is what nu-males actually believe.

Put the steering wheel straight and take a look at where the wheel is. If you can see obvious misalignment(too much camber, toe, etc) then you prolly broke something.

I had something similar happen about a week ago
> driving to friends house on icy roads with summer tires
> make a left at a light going downhill
> car decides is no longer wants to turn halfway through
> wheel bumps curb
> autistic shitlord friend-of-a-friend who was following me to friends house rear ends me going ~25
> magically gain +15 camber and muh 2 piece wheels have a massive dent in the lip
> limp car to friends house to check what broke
> now like +5 camber but steering is fucking and pulling hard to the side that hit

Ended up being that I tore the flange that mounts the strut to the steering knuckle. Pretty much just cause the wheel to go whoever it feels like

i have legendary bad gas right now, like my farts smell like a decomposing skunk, and im averaging 3 or 4 farts/min

the question is: will this smell ever come out of my cloth seats or should i start ripping out the upholstery when this finally passes?

Leave the car open for a while if you can, it will eventually go away

I did way worse last weekend.
>Driving home around 2:30am
>Dark as fuck
>Road has 2 Lanes in either direction
>Realize im going the wrong way and hook a u-turn at ~30mph because I like hearing the tires screech
>BANG
>THIS IS MAJOR TOM TO GROUND CONTROL
>two tires torn, knocked a big chip out of one of the wheels
>Turns out somecunt put a strip of cement with some grass in the middle, presumably just to give the homeless somewhere to stand and beg people for heroin money.
>Tow home, put new tires on, car is fine
>Makes some new noises, but fine
TL;DR you're fine don't worry about it.

Stop driving with summer tires in winter you dope.

Anybody have any experience painting interiors? Specifically using SEM's plastic primer with some other brand krylon or rustoleum. Obviously they'd be the plastic paint

Not much experience but here's a tip, make sure you are painting in a //Really clean environment, for some reason when I paint plastic it seems like it picks up way more dust/dirt. Hard to make it turn out as good as metal.

how do you get mustard stains out of your seat

This is a really stupid question, but I may as well ask. Let's suppose I made a manga or anime that's like Initial D, and one of the opponents is a guy who drives an Automatic transmission, and it's made out to be something extremely fearsome. Of course in real life, at least until recently, Manuals were faster, but newer autos have been updated significantly. But that's where my question comes in; is it theoretically possible to make an auto trans (or tuning it) so that it shifts gears perfectly? Like imagine pic related being not-Dagumi's reaction saying something like "Unbelievable! A perfect shift like that? And he didn't lose speed!?"

tldr is an auto trans tuned to shift gears perfectly in the realm of possibility

would need to be flappy paddle shift tho so still somewhat manual, just no clutch

Oh, so is that what this is? I never knew that, thanks for that.

If they're black cloth, a sharpie

kek

What if they are grey

>92 Sable 6cyl 3.8
>AC out in it
>Blown head gasket at 54k miles
>2,300 to fix it
>Decent interior and paint still okay
>Power windows, power seats
vs
>Find a Camry motor in junkyard
>drop it in my old 95 camry coupe
>get new struts for it (needed that)
>AC works
>No power windows. shit seats

Or say hell to either, and junk both and look for a car for about 1500-1700$ (What I can get for both junk and what I have saved up)

So every time I have to remove my back seat back out, I have to have two people. One has to sit inside the car with a ratchet, the other has to hold the nut under the car, because the bolt runs through the floorpan. How can I turn this two man job into a one man job?

Obviously I could weld a nut under the floorpan, but I dont have access a welder, nor do I do this job often enough to use a favor borrowing one.

try hot gluing the nut in place, then thread the bolt in. the nut stays stuck to the metal, and it doesn't spin with the bolt.

I could also be making an autistic idea, but that's beside the point

The problem is getting it off more than on. Hot glue or epoxy wont hold it to break it. It also wont hold it well enough to get tight :/

get a breaker bar and socket and have it jammed against something in the car. that should keep the bolt in place

JB weld wont hold it enough to break it? whats the torque on those bolts?

Ill try both of these, thanks. Ive tried an off-brand epoxy and had it not work, but maybe an extra liberal coat of jbweld will do.

>no where is FWD mentioned

Must feel bad always projecting your insecurities like that

i frequently use the breaker bar method on strut bolts. they're fucking annoying if i don't jam it in the wheel well

Normally wrenches just slide off since the bolt sits at a 45 degree angle. Ill try taping in place though, thanks!

I want to drive a van without the rapist stigma and bad gas mileage, any options?

Toyota Sienna maybe? Just get a mom-van and you'll lose the rapist stigma.

>While on rear wheel drive you get the rear wheels to lose traction and keep them on 0 grip by applying throttle. You steer it by using the throttle. Rear wheel cars can keep the tail out as long as you want.

Do you even know what drifting is...

Not him

Controlled loss of traction
> ie. Scandinavian Flick

Done generally by throwing the rest end out around corners, you can do it in a FWD but you gain bugger all compared to doing it in a RWD

Why do you want a van? Would a minivan suffice? I don't think GMC vans have the rapist stigma but they do have terrible economy. Maybe on CNG it's cheaper for you, depends on how much you drive obviously

want to get a 08 grand prix gxp for dd, good idea or bad? I'm not a wannabe boyracer so I'm not bothered too much by fwd or auto.

How can I see a more detailed comparison on fastestlaps.com on a track, like that coloured lines pointing the distance between two cars in a sector?

What is an (((alright))) price to pay for insurance as an 18 year old in the UK?

I can only seem to find quotes of £2500 for a relatively decent car and the cheapest I've had was £1800 with a miserable Citroen Ax
Do I have to bite the bullet at 2.5k or is there another answer/usual quote range?

I'm not liking these jewish company practices much lads

If it wasn´t for brexit you could just move and live anywhere else.
We pay sub 100 yearly for insurance for 18 year olds for any car.

I fucking hate it here mate

well better learn love it since britain is now independent from the shengen zone
:^)

The gxp is good but the transmission doesn't handle the power well. If you plan on driving it hard, be prepared for transmission issues. There's also the GTP(or GT in 06+ models) that you might want to consider. Supercharged 3800 that makes 260hp

:^(

desu its a shame cause you have some great tougays.

But whatever, romania is filled with tougays and doesn´t need a ferry to get to

thanks big hoss. definitely gotta do a little more research on the GP, good looking out

>Fwd cars would be quicker if they were rwd or awd
Wrong. While rwd and awd have better traction for acceleration, an engine mounted transversely on the front axle delivers more power to the wheels than having to transfer power to a driveshaft, then the back axle. FR and AWD cars are both heavier than an equivalent FF due to increased amount of gears. MR can be transversely mounted as well, and btfo's FR, FF, and AWD. This is why all supercars are MR. If you take a FF and convert it to FR without making any other changes, it will be slower unless you have a very powerful engine that needs that extra traction for extra torque.

Just sit on a black ice air freshener m'boy.

Don't get me wrong, it's a damn good car, especially for the price. Just gotta watch the trans a bit

You would need a dual clutch auto trans with paddle shifters.

Does anyone know what kind of discounts a NAPA employee can get?

How hard is it to install a stall converter? Would I need to pull my tranny? Tune?

Who said anything about FWD you fucking mongoloid.

You did

Kill yourself shitposter.

The main advantage of the MR layout is not that there are less losses for the driveshafts.
You are seriously overestimating how much power is lost through the driveline in a FR layout.

MRs are that way because that's better for weight distribution and polar moment of inertia.
It's always better to have the center of mass as close as possible to the center of the vehicle.

If a FF vehicle has enough power to lose traction at the front wheels, then it can only benefit from an FR layout as far as traction goes, even accounting for the tiny added loss

also in mr the most mass is in the right location which means it outhandles every car with similiar specs
50-50 weight bias is for grocery getters.
Rear bias is for true tagumi fanbois

What happened to cheap (400-900) running cars in decent condition?

nowadays everything I see at that price point is usually complete ass.

as a poorfag it makes me sad.

MX5 OR RX8?

I need an answer to this question ASAP, I have to drive 300 miles in this car tomorrow.

What is this black sensor on my valve cover? It appears to have unseated itself and is leaking oil. I have pressed down on it and it does not re-seat. Does this pose risk of immediate damage to the car? Can I easily replace it? It's an 01 Mitsubishi Galant.

...

get the Camry motor and some seats from a junkyard, take old engine and make it hektik, re-install, sell old engine on CL

I see them every day, prices vary by geography
>humboldt.craigslist.org/cto/6039972612.html
t. lives in drugville, drug county, in Drugifornia, USofDrugs

Is my car going to blow up?

Is buying a former rental really as bad as people say? aren't a lot of "pre-owned" cars at dealers really just rentals sold back? I've got a test booked for a sweet new loaded Mazda 3 with low miles

Seems similar to something I had in my old car, it could be a component of the PCV system.
Although that long shape gives me some doubts, can you see where the pipe attached to it goes?

orangecounty.craigslist.org/cto/6045705544.html
Should I check this out? Dubious of somebody else's swap.

Avoid rentals at all costs.
I drive rentals a lot because of my work and I can tell you they are being abused as hell.
Apart from seeing first-hand some of my colleagues going crazy on their rentals, I've been handed cars that were already pretty abused despite being only months-old (fucked alignment, falling underside panels, virbations, cigarette burns, service lights still on after many miles from the scheduled maintenance, scratches everywhere, to name a few).

People don't give a shit when it's not their car so they do the stupidest shit to it that they would never do to their own vehicle.

Do not buy ex rentals, they are too much of a risk, especially if you live near an airport or an heavily industrialized city or a place that has big office blocks with international firms in there.

what if it looks like it's only been gently used, nothing broken or missing, etc? I also will have my (trusted) mechanic check out everything short of disassembling the engine before buying... still no? Every single model in the fleet can't be beat to shit, I just can't pass it up for the price

Wipe it with a hot dog
They're fucking terrible. Stay away.

Cash for Clunkers happened

Miata
Is
Always
The
Answer

Is it safe to lift my car with the scissor jack that came with it or should I invest in a proper floor jack?

Jacks aren't safe. They work to lift your car. The scissor jack is fine to lift your car, just a pain in the ass. If safety is a requirement, get jack stands.

How do I not get ripped off at a mechanic?

I cant find out whats making this light noise whenever I let off the gas above 25mph but my towns only auto shop is a known liar

>when running lights are off, brake lights work fine
>when running lights are on and brakes are applied, left taillight goes completely dark while right one has brake light as normal

Is this a bad ground? Somewhat confused.

They fix it up before selling it, most of the visible damage is stuff that can be fixed for relatively cheap or for free considering those cars are insured from top to bottom when they are rented.
I'm. It even saying they might be repaired badly, but they will do everything they can to hide the obvious abuse that a rental car has to endure.
They are also sold when they are still relatively new so they don't show obvious signs of wear and age.

But the amount of abuse I've seen them sustain is enough to never let me consider them as a viable option. Yes, they are cheap and yes, they are almost new, but there are so many risks and possible hidden problems in there that a simple inspection can't see.

Stuff like redlining a cold engine in winter right after turning it on "just because", fiddling with the gearbox, misuse of the electric handbrake, complete disregard for potholes, sidewalks and ditches is something that won't show in an inspection and it may not even give problems down the line, but it's too much of a gamble for me. I would avoid them at all costs.
the price is obviously inviting, but the risk is too high.

Yes, most likely a bad ground

Could be a bad ground, or wrong bulb in the left tail light.

bumpin

If you even bothered to Google a picture of an automatic transmission you would have seen that the torque converter sits right inside the bell housing and sandwiched between the gearbox itself and the engine.
So yes, you need to pull the tranny to access the torque converter and yes, you are an idiot because you could have gotten your answer in 5 seconds with a Google image search

come to think of it now when my running lights are on my left taillight looks slightly dimmer, as if a bulb would be out. Maybe it's a screwed up dual filament bulb? I'm going to try to sand down the ground to see if that fixes it, if not I'm just going to replace both bulbs. Thanks lads.

Check your throttle body

Yeh if it's dimmer it means it's using the position light as a brake light, so it's probably a broken/wrong bulb.
If the grounds are hard to reach, I would first start by replacing the bulbs since they are so cheap, or at least try to swap the bulbs between left and right to see if the problem follows the bulb or stays on the same taillight.

>swapping the bulbs from left and right to see if the problem follows the bulb

I can't believe I didn't think of this. Thanks, m8. Btw if this might help the car in question is an aw11.

>out of gear and in gear 1 car is loud
>higher gears car is quieter
???
i think its the engine mounts or the exhaust but i honestly have no idea

This is kind of urgent.

This bolt broke off in the valve cover for my 2007 Impreza. The extractor on the other one is the smallest I have. Will this still be good enough to get it out? Or am I just fucked?

Lads, why shouldn't I do this for a second car?
indianapolis.craigslist.org/cto/6044533685.html

bump 4 you bud. No clue how to fix.

anyone here going to use the new Mobile One Annual Oil?

I need a right angle drill to even attempt to get to the stop I need because there's some piece of shit in the way and I have no idea what it does. Yet it's in the way.

Extractor looks kinda big, but the broken bolt has no pressure on it because the head is broke off so it would probably work. I have gotten broken bolts out by drilling them with a regular drill bit to give it some bite, then just putting it in reverse. If it's a boxer engine, my condolences.

how do i drive stick