Fuck synthetic oil

OP, you realize it's getting to a point where synthetic is cheaper to make than conventional oils and there's hints that shit like Pennzoil yellow bottle conventional is already synthetic.

>mfw driver's manual says change oil filter at 6,000miles and top off. Then Change oil and oil filter at 12,000.

Car uses like 3.5qts of 20w50

The only reason I'd use conventional over synthetic is to minimize leaks (synthetic is thinner and leaks more)

>tfw m103 leakbox in my car

Are you dense? What do you think the 10w30 on an oil bottle means?

Don’t Americans get semi-synth, or something?

Pretty sure certain detergants can make it leak more

My uncle has been modifying beetles since the 60s, said you don't want to run synth in them because they'll leak way too much

posting in a bait thread. or OP is actually posting from some third world country where synthetic is still much more expensive.

>What do you think the 10w30 on an oil bottle means?
I guess it means a simpleton believes thick was is the only factor determining viscosity and that viscosity is absolute in measurement and not a range of values.

I have used synthetic in some old engines and never experienced a new leak.

Why not just use cooking oil???

dumb frogposter

oi vey, goyim. Buy this placebo product for $5 more because atleast you have a piece of mind

Motorcraft synthetic blend for $17.50

>changing oil more often with inferior oil because synthetic is a bit more expensive

kys

>oy vey, use this snake oil. Good goy

>synthetic oil is a Jewish conspiracy

get back to /pol/

im not saying its one, but you have to be retarded to be paying more for placebo

you have to be retarded to think it is a placebo

i put liquad soap in car. same shit, more cheaper. also engine is clean.

I will just keep using synthetic oil, thank you.

Mobil 1 does that but with the difference that it protects the engine from wear at the same time.

Mobil 1 is shire comparer to Castrol

you're fucking retarded dude. Put conventional oil in your volkswagen and see how the interior of your engine looks after a few oil changes.
t. valvoline employee
can agree with this. I switched my shitbox over to synthetic after I bought it and it started leaking from both valve covers.

Depends on where you fill. My dealership charges $40 for a semi-synth change which I think is 6 liters in my car. $100 for full synthetic.

They gave me the first oil change for free and charged me $40 for the second one. Considering I can get the filter for less than $10 (if I use OEM) and when the oil goes on sale I can get full Synthetic (Mobile 1) from Costco for less than $30, I'll just change it myself next time.

This. Especially if you live in a place that has actual seasons. You know like a winter and summer. Where the operating temperature gets extreme. The temp range where I am at its coldest will be low teens and highest will be 110+.

Here

motoroiltests.com/car-oil-testing.html#.WMnGeSNlDqB

Just put in the oil the car asks for. The engineers knew what they were doing

>placebo
>measurable benefits

I haven't changed the oil in my car for more than 2 years. Just hit 250k miles the other day too.

t. woman

He didn't just mean thinner viscosity. Synthetic oil molecules are smaller than those of conventional, this they can leak through smaller gaps

>change it myself next time
Watch out for the warranty fuck.

>$15 conventional
>change every 3 months
>$60 a year and $40 in filters
>total $100
Vs
>$20 synthetic
>change every 4months
>$60 a year and $30 in filters
>total $90

DO THE MATH, SON.

The next oil change will be outside of 36 months/3 years anyways (I've only put 21,000 miles on the car in 2yr4mo and the change interval is every 10,000 miles) and automakers are not allowed to invalidate the warranty merely for the use of non-branded parts/supplies.

>The only reason I'd use conventional over synthetic is to minimize leaks
Conventional oil makes a sludgy hard glaze that can partially seal up leaky seals. Synthetic cleans too well, so it removes sludge and glaze that can be plugging up leaks.

I don't care, I want the best for my car

if something is leaking, I don't think you want to ingor it

There is also the high-mileage version of synthetic oil. Those have an additive to cause the seals to swell just a little and reduce leaking from old and worn-out seals.

hahaha I actually almost got baited by this

Literally the only case in which synthetic would be worse for the car is if it's a dorito, because synthetics have flame retardants in them and doritos have to burn it to lubricate the apex seals. Otherwise you should always use synthetic.

Loosening up all that sludge can clog up the oil lines too. Best just use whatever you have been using.

> molecular sized leaks
kek

Or best to start with full synthetic as early as possible before the sludge and glazing gets too thick.

Not everyone here owns new cars. My shitbox has been on semi-synth forever and has no leaks. I would like to keep it that way.

With the aid of sludge and glaze, one can prevent leaks forever!

>94 F150 with a 351 burns a quart of oil every 2 weeks
>use Castrol GTX 20W-50 because it's cheap
>never have to do an oil change, ever
>just change the filter every 5,000
>keep riding till it dies in another 100,000 miles
>no fucks given

Why did you delete it ya fucking geezer? Is it your son or your wife's?

Well, at least until you have to take the engine apart.

Actually synthetic oils of the day were significantly less polar than conventionals of the day. Dry oils fail to keep seals supple but more importantly the film migrates much easier than polar oils. Synthetics like GrIII and GrIV are considered "dry" because they chains are saturated with hydrogen and are thus non-polar. Now days, conventional uses the same hydrotreated, saturated base stocks (but with a lower Viscosity Index, meaning they classify for GrII only) so there really is no difference with leakage between "synthetic" and "conventional" oil, which are now marketing distinctions instead of scientific ones.

tldr; the synthetic leaking wives tale is expired due to advances across the industry

540rat is a tard

What's Veeky Forums's opinion on this stuff. Can you really get away with changing your oil once a year? What about the filter?

It's my son's. But there were formatting and spelling errors. I can't fucking stand that. Because you can't edit, I'd rather just delete and start again.

> Implying I don't change the oil in my jetta every 15k miles with some garbage 0w-40 shit

>worrying about formatting and spelling errors
>on Veeky Forums of all places

Leave that shit at the door man, no one cares about that shit here

Non diesel engines don't use detergents in their oil...

The fuck? I paid like 30 dollars for full synthetic and a filter. I had to change it myself but hey.

I understand the pain I'm in place where it gets -40°f. At that point you need oil pan heaters, and block heaters even on gasoline engines.

Man you sure showed us, saving all that money once a year. You must save like $30! Are you a billionaire yet

>Oil gets acidic as it gets older
>Letting old, acidic oil sit in your engine
>Seals/o-rings/gaskets get eaten away by the high-acidity oil
>leaks fucking everywhere

This is literally 50% of all the Subaru head gasket leaks. Old oil may still technically be "good" to use but there's not a single good thing about letting ancient oil chew away at rubber/thinner metal parts of your engine.

tl;dr change your fucking oil more often

>Oil gets acidic as it gets older
>Letting old, acidic oil sit in your engine

Over time, the Oil also gets diluted by gasoline. It also collects water from the combustion process via blowby gases. Additives in the oil protect the internal engine surfaces but eventually get used up or become "weaker" due to age and dilution. The GM owners' manual says even if you don't put many miles on the car to change the oil at least once per year.

The sludge is already plugging or blocking things. If you're worried about sludge plugging things up, look at the oil coming out or send it in for oil analysis. You can also open up the oil filter cannister and see if there is sludge on the filter. If so, then you can go to extra sludge breakup power of pennzoil platinum ULTRA. If you wondered why pennzoil made two similar yet different full synthetic oils, it was because ultra contained far more detergent. In one sense, it is the one you use to recover from using conventional oils.

>implying anyone on Veeky Forums is employed

>painting the rotors

I am. Pic related, it's the comments list I had to make on the giant pile of shit Lexus ES300 I worked on yesterday.

It's like $7 for the factory (OEM) oil filter and $25 when on sale for the oil at costco (Mobil 1 full synth). So same price area if you're going to change it yourself.

Pretty sure they do, but I could be wrong. Most oils are compatible with both gas and diesel.

>Using oil that will loosen up shit in the engine and just running with it

It would be smarter to just do an engine flush, but that can cause a shitload of leaks too.

>Costs ~20~% more
>Lasts >20% longer
Plus less work to change because you do it less often. Why worry about the per-unit cost when cost/time is improved?

>change it regularly

You mean half as often as conventional?

>spend $30 every 3k mi or $35 every 6k

Oy vey don't do the second one you're engine will explode you need to spend twice as much money goyim

...

>Fuck synthetic oil.
If you have turbo, full synth withstands heat soak better.

>total waste of money
I've never had trouble finding synthetic for $10-12 for 5 quarts, when it's on sale with a rebate. Where are you finding conventional cheaper than that, except for maybe SuperTech?

>synthetic oil
>and oil additives

this guy

Even the conventional 5qt jugs of supertech are $12. I don't think you can get cheaper than that.