Miata General - /mg/

Miata General - /mg/

Meaty Tire edition

Ask all your Miata related questions here

>miata pics and vids
>miata feels
>miata questions and answers
>miata hair styling tips and tricks

FAQ:
can I fit?
>if you're under 6'2" and aren't overweight you can fit without modification

can I daily drive one?
>yes most people can daily drive a miata no problem. I have commuted in miatas for 3 years now

even in the snow?
>yes miatas can drive well in the snow. (with four snow tires) Just be sure to spray off your undercarriage afterwards

Other urls found in this thread:

wiki.miata.net/tiki-index.php?page=Checking Out a Used Miata
vid.me/Pgma
sanantonio.craigslist.org/cto/6037917583.html
youtube.com/watch?v=zYmOogg5qIs
twitter.com/NSFWRedditVideo

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thinking about buying a Miata.

Not sure if I should get an NA or NB

NA with the 1.8 if you like flip ups.

NB if you don't care about flip ups

similar question. not sure if i should go for NB or NC.

I like the smaller size of the NB, but it feels more effeminate and they're older, so prob will need more frequent repair

>like the smaller size of the NB, but it feels more effeminate and they're older, so prob will need more frequent repair

not at all. Miata's in general rarely need repair unless it wasn't taken care of.

Anyway I personally don't like the look of NC's so if I were you i'd go with the NB.

Also if you want to make look more masculine stop being insecure and buying the widest tires you can fit under it

NB familia

real thread here

thanks for bumping my thread fampai

NC > NB
I've had both

elaborate on why the NC is better?

comparing my 2.0 NC1 vs 1.8 NB1
>better power to weight ratio
>better chassis
>comfier interior with more features
>power retractable hard top
>less wind and road noise
>lower rpm at highway speeds

with both cars stock except with lowering springs on my NC, my best time at my local track in the NC is 3 seconds faster than the NB. i guess that's not really a scientific comparison though

interesting

yuh

How are Miatas on maintenance? Are they easy to take care of, not as expensive? Say I want to work on it myself, how much of a pain in the ass will it be compared to other vehicles?

The only real advantage the NB has is aftermarket. But that's kind of a big one. The NC will never have the same aftermarket because so many racers skipped over it and went straight to the ND. Plus they'll never get so cheap because post-2000 cars depreciate much slower because of the "1990 was just 10 years ago effect."

Easy, cheap, and much easier than literally any FWD car ever made.

What's the golden rule on price, year, and mileage I can buy one?
I want to buy one where it's assuming still good, and not ready for major maintenance for maybe another year or so.

Buy new.
Seriously, it depends on the owner.

ive owned every gen but the ND and theyve all been reliable and easy to maintain yourself

wiki.miata.net/tiki-index.php?page=Checking Out a Used Miata

brump

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beautiful

thanks

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>connecticut plates
neat

>stance
meh

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Green Miata is the best. I just wish i had the money to convert the interior into the same as pic related.

>if you're under 6'2" and aren't overweight you can fit without modification

>tfw 6'3" and bulky
I should never have lifted

l-lads...how bad is this rust?

is my car a goner?

Serious question, why do you constantly post pics of my buddy's car in these threads? I know the owner if that NC personally (initials are BM) and he has no idea what Veeky Forums is, its really weird dude

please stop harassing me

just check the square foot nearest the visual rust
most likely it is just the bottom of the sill has worn though

So I tightened my throttle cable today. I've had my '95 for almost 9 years and because the throttle felt fine I assumed it was. Well, I had a full inch of play in both directions so I figured why not try tightening it?

I tightened it as far as it would go, and there were still a few millimeters of play in the line and it did not change the idle.

OH MY FUCK what a difference! The car *feels* quicker now because there's more throttle opening with less pressure on the pedal. I'm almost convinced that I wasn't getting wide-open throttle before adjusting because it seems (slightly) faster at full throttle now. But the real difference is at low throttles where the pedal-to-acceleration action now seems more natural.

You guys need to do this, it takes less than a minute!

thx for the tip brotato. i'll do it now. how do I check if there is any play?

Try lifting the exposed section of throttle as seen on the right in that pic. There should be just a teeny bit of play. If you want to adjust it, loosen the two nuts and pull the cable to the left (loosening the right nut as you go) until you are at the sweet spot. Then tighten the left nut all the way to where you have moved the plate then tighten them both. Check to make sure the tension is still where you want it, then start the engine to make sure that idle RPM has not changed (idle RPM is where it's idling only when the engine is at max operating temp).

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Electric throttle here bub

Miatas look really fun to drive and I'm thinking of purchasing an older one when my current car dies or I simply get too tired of it. I'm looking st something like so, and around the same year. Also, would an even older Miata, like 90-98 be reliable to drive as well? At what amount of miles do these older miatas start to have problems?

cool, mine definitely had a shit ton of slack in it. i took out most of it but it definitely had the throttle sticking at 2k so i pulled it back a bit and this is what I got currently. it's definitely less slack than before and the idle isnt affected

vid.me/Pgma

Out of curiosity, what exactly do you mean by the throttle was sticking at 2k?

I turned on the car and it was idling at 2k. I know you said to wait until the car is warm to test the idle but I could 100% tell that this 2k idle was a result of the throttle cable being tightened too much.

What do yo uthink of the vid? Is that how much slack you have now?

vid.me/tQbA

Pretts similar. Weird that I had to adjust mine as far as it will go though.

Honestly if you're going for an NB, go for an NBFL. Purely opinion, but I think they look a little better.

Pic related, mine. 2001.

Before the retarded euro license plates. It's an import from Germany and used a stupid rusty bracelet to hold the license plate, so I bought a decent looking aftermarket one. Looks so much cleaner.

Another one I got, also from 2001. Has 57k km. Blue one has twice the km's.

As someone who believes 99% of cars look best in black, dear fucking god I'm jealous of that color. Oddly enough I sold the 370z for a white 335i too.

Also just a reminder to prospective buyers, the NB is a direct upgrade from the NA

I really need to get a picture with both of these in it

>As someone who believes 99% of cars look best in black, dear fucking god I'm jealous of that color. Oddly enough I sold the
Thanks man, color name is Starry Blue Mica, colorcode 24A for the interested. Love it.

These things last forever but 162k is a bit high, would spend a little more and get one about 90-100k, also see >Also just a reminder to prospective buyers, the NB is a direct upgrade from the NA

hi guys

I honestly would just like an answer, Brian would as well, he says his car hasn't looked like that for a long time

Any of you anons in Washington seattle area I'll sell you my miata for 500 buckaroos. Things a piece of shit but it runs and drives.

>162k is a bit high
I have a chassis with over 300k on it, and two more with over 200k. All three of them have running original engines.

Miata is kino.

sanantonio.craigslist.org/cto/6037917583.html
yay or nay? It's the only miata I can find in my area in my price range.

[email protected]

Nay, don't get impatient then regret your impulsive purchase 3 days later.

But I want a fixer upper sorta. i want a car i can learn how to wrench with, but not too serious. It's either this or a 1500 accord. I kinda like it.
Is there any red flags i'm not looking at?

>learning to wrench
>needs a clutch
Also he obviously rear ended someone

well yeah but I'm from a family of mechanics. they all know how to wrench except me.
Also the rear ended thing. That did throw me off but i figured it couldn't be too bad given he even replaced the headlights, and did the sleepy mod.

im not too bright, but I feel like with a shop at my disposal, and a paint booth, it couldn't be too hard to fix.

Older cars don't necessarily need more repair. I've had my NB for over a year now and I've literally done nothing but basic maintenance for it. The cars are super reliable unless you're a shithead and don't take care of your vehicles.

Yo email me faggot, I want your gay car
[email protected]

What engine is that?

Before I email you cunts just a disclaimer the last guy who owned this was a full nig and put 17 inch rims on it. Honed the FUCK out of it, it was sold at an auction after being abandoned. The seals on the top leak so the seats are damp. It's missing the headlight button to flip them up so it's all manual (literally lol) mechanically it's ok, changed oil and plugs and all other fluids. Replaced front brakes and had the tires aligned. Speedo doesn't work so the miles are stuck at 160k and you gotta use your phone or the tach for your speed. It's got exhaust rattle. Dents in many places on the panels and the trunk leaks water so it regularly fills up and it's filthy as fuck. I have the replacement panels and the trunk interior but havn't put it in cause it's pretty gross(don't wanna clean that shit out). Also its 1990s so rust.

>Doesn't recognize a B6 in a Miata

Wait for a better one. Dont drive crashed cars.

ok /mg/

I want to trade my daily for this and fix it the fuck up.

It's a '97 with 74,000 and the 1.8. Possibly LSD as well.

Problem is it's at a BHPH, and I want to trade my newer and more valuable vehicle for it. My current car is a Dodge Dart, worth about $9000 if I'm lucky. It's fully paid, but there's a time in a man's life when he decides he wants a Miata and that time for me is now. The minidubbs will be ironic fun for a while and then i'll chuck them on craigslist.

In this sort of situation, can I convince the dealer to throw cash at me for my trade, or am I guaranteed to get fucked?

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I'm 6'2", mildly overweight and 240lbs.
I fit easy, good legroom but with the softtop up, if my legs weren't so long I'd be hitting the frame on small bumps.

>Giant sticker thingy on the windscreen
I assume it's perforated, but what man.
With sunset/rise all I have to do is not slouch and I can't see 100ft in front of me. Blessed cowl.

email me at the Yahoo email anyway senpai. I'm ready for shitbox adventure

Do not ever, under any circumstances, buy from a BHPH lot. That car has been through 16 owners and 16 repos. Besides, you're better off with selling your current car privately for 8-9k and buying a really nice miata off a regular person. A BHPH lot isn't interested in selling cars, they're interested in getting dumb people with not enough money to finance, then repo the cars. Avoid these places like the plauge

Ok I know the memes thanks Longpost Guy

Place doesn't look like one of those lots desu, it's literally some rural guy flipping cars out of a shack. I will be on guard but I'm still gonna check it out because why the fuck not. The wheels should give it enough clearance to have a good look under it.

Gonna need a quick rundown on where to look for rust on an NA.

I have the same problem in every other roadster or coupé: if legs don't hit something, head does
cut it out and weld a new piece in there

is it bad?

No power windows and cruise control means it doesn't have the LSD.

You're best off buying a leather car, since they all had

Not true, mine has neither and came from the factory with the Torsen.

buongiorno

Anybody knows what this is?

>that license plate

>living in Commiefornia

The sills. Especially towards the rear. You can undo the panel under the door with a Philips and check the middle of the sill with a flasghlight, but you can't look inside the rear. Check for any previous rust repairs by making sure the original shape of the sheet metal is the same. Cheap repairs usually alter the shape of the body slightly. Check this channel for clarification: youtube.com/watch?v=zYmOogg5qIs

Apart from that you can guess from looking at the axles and control arms how the condition of the sills and framerails (no direct way to check those either) might be.

The wheelwells sometimes rust, too. That's not that big of a deal, but it probably means the sills and framerails are rustig as well.

looks like an extension for the top of the rear mudflaps

jdm

What are, in your opinions, the best custom/factory colors for a 94 Miata?

Do such things even exist?

>The wheels should give it enough clearance to have a good look under it.
When I'm checking out a car, I put a jack and stands on my trunk, if the owner has a problem with that and says anything when i'm taking them out(never ask, just do it), i put it back and drive away without a word

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Unless it was added later, it was a part of the option packages starting in 95. Torsens only came on cars with cruise control, most of which were leather cars.

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lmfao

Honestly man, I would ignore the BHPH haters and just use your own intuition. The first thing you should do is grab the VIN and plug it into Vehiclehistory.com and look for any obvious issues like an odometer discrepancy or accidents.

A low miles 97 is pretty much the best possible NA you can get so it's worth keeping an eye on.

How much are they asking for it? It's probably worth around $4k-$4500

A package was a 94 only. It was popular equipment package after that which I mentioned.

He was talking about a 97 and since it doesn't have cruise, it doesn't have a torsen unless it was added.