[ D a i l y - B i k e - T h r e a d ] - /dbt/

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/dbt/ map: Meet, Fight, Fuck.
>google.com/maps/d/viewer?msa=0&mid=z7CKLSFiJH_M.kMZoQpBOKipI

Motorcycle Ergonomics Simulator:
>cycle-ergo.com/

Noob? Git gud:
(Cross-thread) (Cross-thread)

webums with sounds:
Previously on /deebeetee/

Other urls found in this thread:

mohave.craigslist.org/
mohave.craigslist.org/mcy/6030105589.html
mohave.craigslist.org/mcy/6033390451.html
mohave.craigslist.org/mcy/6036829326.html
thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/860794-shopping-for-a-drz400-what-to-look-for/
twitter.com/SFWRedditVideos

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Please say a prayer for k5 600 user, who will never ever be able to catch up to the godmachine CBR125R

I want a bike but not a dirtbike. Just a normal starter bike. Live in AZ so dirtbikes are the majority anyway. Craiglist: mohave.craigslist.org/

Thanks

Rip k5 user -_-7
You will be missed

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Budget?
Style?
What you will use it for?

>1500 - 2000 (That sound reasonable for a bike)
>Any
>Daily (Save gas and stuff), and for some fun

Better add some sails to your 125's so they can gain speed on a mild day.

>tfw no inline 4 cbr250rr

Ok will look for you user
Do you do a lot of highway commuting?

>Start bike
>Service light comes on 20% of the time after 10 seconds
>Once warm, turn it off and on again
>Never comes back until it's cooled down and I start it again (sometimes)
should I worry about this? Been doing it for a year and nothing has happened.

No. I live in a small town with only one highway
>Lake Havasu

they used to make such a thing back in the early 90s

the two stroke 250s were much faster and lighter anyways

mohave.craigslist.org/mcy/6030105589.html

there was a cbr600F3 I wanted to rec but it's been lowered and that fucking disgusts me so here you go.

Do you know that you can change the oil on your bike?

mohave.craigslist.org/mcy/6033390451.html
mohave.craigslist.org/mcy/6036829326.html

best I could find if you don't want a KLR.

I change the oil at least once every year which is what the service manual recommends (or every 10k but I never hit that in a year)

Alright. Is there any white smoke from your exhaust at all?

Did you notice any dips in power in any rev range?

Any changes in the clutch, as it shares the oil from engine.

Also try getting some fuel/carb/injector cleaner through it as there might be gunk in your engine or other parts.

The 1150 is kinda big for a newbie, don't you think?
Also nothing wrong with a KLR, especially not out in the desert where user lives

Also it could be seals, white bike do you have, what year, give us info.

Holy digits, Batman!

Aircooled is perfectly fine.

>looks better
>louder
>less shit that breaks

>Alright. Is there any white smoke from your exhaust at all?
For about 2 seconds when it first starts up but I'm pretty sure that's just moisture in the exhaust. No smell and it's really humid where I live.
>Did you notice any dips in power in any rev range?
None at all
>Any changes in the clutch, as it shares the oil from engine.
Nope
>Also try getting some fuel/carb/injector cleaner through it as there might be gunk in your engine or other parts.
I'll give that a shot. Thinking it might just be the oil sensor if it goes away once it's warm (like 40c oil temperature).

if you listen to /dbt/ you'd imagine there are fuel injection and water cooling systems breaking left right and center on motorcycles lol.

My bike does the same thing, goes away after like 30 seconds

Air-cooled is fine, but the odds that you burn oil or overheat or are greatly increased

If you don't ride the bike much the oil settles, gunks, clumps. Once warm it returns to normal. Does it idle lower than it should when you are warming it up?

The cleaner can't hurt, but from the sound of it it's probably an oil issue which the cleaner can help with to clean the engine/carbs/injectors out.

What do you ride?

Nice fucked up WI/MI on that map.

I don't think a 20-year-old carbed 4-cylinder supersport would make a very good starter bike anyway.
>inb4 its fine
sure. It is doable. It will just be a pain in the ass than it's worth and it will be harder to ride than typical babby bikes
>inb4 not supersport because it ends in F instead of RR
It's a typical mid 90s supersport. Don't get too hung up on the Rs

>Does it idle lower than it should when you are warming it up?
Nope, the bike runs like a dream besides this one thing. Never broke down had troubles starting, or anything.

It's a BMW 650gs.

It doesn't matter I just looked up a random image of the usa, no one cares about nigger state or cheese state anyways t b h

That's not what I'm sayin'. I've had tears in my hoses and shit. I mean, I get that it's not a huge issue, but there's something weird to me about trying to ape the style of old Indians while sticking a huge radiator on there.

>It's a BMW 650gs.

Ah then don't worry too much in my opinion. If you are maintaining it well this shouldn't be anything.

>torn hoses
yeah i would much rather have melted pistons from insufficient coolign

old indians were technologically advanced for their time, they were trying to make the best bike they could with their technology available.

What's weird is recreating the style of an old indian now and having it be air cooled.

To add: I think they use thick synthetic oil which could be messing with your sensors, prop it upright next time, llave it for a bit then start it up and see if its the same.

I've had hoses break on me at bad times on my liquid-cooled bike, but have yet to see any melted pistons on the air-cooled.

Give me break. There's nothing "technologically advanced" about the Polaris Indians, and I don't think anyone is ever going to view the brand that way.

The service light will only come on like once a week so it's hard to diagnose exactly what's causing it.

I didn't say they were, they're not doing enough in fact.

The scout is a step in the right direction though.

Airbags and reverse gear next, buddy.

scout is still pigfat

so not really

>just dropped $520 on soft bags and mounting hardware
>it's only 40 liters
My insides are churning, if it's too small I can just return it but still.

>"new to me" bike owned fir 3 weeks
>turn on
>why am I idling at 3k rpm
>throttle cable is fine
>cover throttle body completely
>still idling at 2k
>On look the intake is held on with bolts on only one side of it.
Fixed but fucking hell, convince me to keep buying used.

Post your helmets

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why didnt you just go with the reckless 80?

>go riding with the guys to "Mexico" last night
>Mexico is just OpSec for totally legal street racing
>Bike's slow as shit so I just kind watched
>Highway racing
>License plate bracket comes loose
>Pops off
>Plate dangling by plate light wire
>bounces off tire quite a few times
>Nearly lose it
>fucking 3M double sided adhesive failing again
>said fuck it and JB weld it to tail
>fucker's not going anywhere now
>hopefully last time this shit happens

Fucking losing the bolts despite torquing them to spec when I got the fender delete. REEEEEEE

>warriors

>torquing to spec
Ram that shit home with an impact down to at least 2 ugga-duggas

My travelling companion on the TAT had the 80 and it was huge. He carried all of the communal gear and it still wasn't full.
I want to keep it high speed / low drag and incentivize myself to pack as light as possible. Even if you pack down the 80 when it's not full it's still pretty bulky.

My Giant Loop was 60L which I think was the perfect volume, but it's not waterproof without internal bags. I'm planning on getting the Mosko Nomad tank bag when they finally release it which is larger volume than the one I had before.

>3m double sided adhesive tape
I'm glad I'm not the only person with a plate nigger-rigged like this.

amazing story

>packing light
not my forte
i should probably get on that soon...

in unrelated news the OEM weights off the AT bars make for handy preload spacers for a dr650

THE ZZR Ninja 250 (2007)

>packing light
I'm pretty good about that, we only brought 2-3 things we never used in 23 days on the TAT and one of them was our tire patch kit. I want to get it even lower though. There's some guys on advrider who bring half the shit I do, so I know it can be done.

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do you pack food and water and cooking stuff or multiple days or just stop in towns?
i end up packing a lot since i bring stuff to cook and stay out of a town for a few days at a time.
hoping i can slim down my loadout this go round since i have a proper air mat and a smaller chair now and ditched hard luggage

i want to get a small suv to haul dirtbikes around. they seem to have 1000-1500# towing capacity, sounds like enough right?
i was considering the ford escape or the rav4. i think the 4wd would be better.

trailer- 350#
2 bikes- 600# erring on the heavy side
gas can- 5gal, 30#

what do you think?

>tfw Odessa is right around the corner
a small suv like those would work, but if you go that route spend some money on transmission cooling since theyre basically car powertrains

>Odessa

which odessa?

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fuck, really? even when i'm under the tow capacity?

what about something like this? i've seen 2 bike versions of these hitch things

I've towed two dirtbikes with a Rav4 before, it can do it but it's pushing it. That was an early 2000s model though, something later would probably handle it better.

I actually packed a months worth of food for two people and a stove, and we each brought a Helinox chair. We ended up eating a lot of McDonalds at gas stops and only eating half the food, but it fit in my pack. In the future I'll just bring one meal per day since eating out is too tempting.

I have the Helinox Ground chair which is small as fuck and doesn't sink into sand/mud.

For stove and food we had an MSR Reactor, specifically because it's super efficient at boiling water and doubles as a coffee press, so you basically never need to clean it, just rinse off coffee grounds, because for food I mixed up a ton of Ziploc bags of "just add 1 cup boiling water" instant rice and potatoes with seasoning. Just boil some water, pour into ziploc, wait a couple minutes and eat it right out of the bag. Was crazy efficient.

i would really rather not get a truck or full sized suv since the trips would be infrequent and it will be my only car.
any advice? what was your tow weight?

those are good, but you need the suspension to handle it, and a class 3 or better hitch.
one bike sacks out my durango so i put airbags on for caddy use.
do not get a double bike caddy, its simply unsafe and the small rigs will be dangerous to drive with that much leveraged weight off the back
and yes for sure add a transmission cooler, its cheap insurance for a really expensive failure

desert 100 in WA state

ok then, i may get the rav4 and a caddy, and rent uhaul trailers for 2 bike trips.the years i'm looking at can do 1500# so i think i will be ok with the tranny cooler.
they should make a 2 bike caddy with a single wheel with a shock to take some of the weight. that would be cool

Just get a Tacoma, it's best of all things. Can tow, can carry, can put a cap on it and make it an overland vehicle.
Ranger will do the same shit less good if you're poor.

Anything can tow a Harbor Frieght trailer with two dirt bikes on it.
>HF trailers aren't even bad if you replace the shit bearings they come with.

starting to fall for the drz meme

is it fine for highway speeds of 65+?
currently ride an sv650 but looking to spice it up with some offroading when i move to norcal

no, dumbfuck, learn to read. don't want a truck.

I had a drz, a YZ125, and a tiny 3 rail trailer so call it 800 lbs, maybe 1000 max, set the cruise at 65 and it went fine, any more than that it was working really hard. And this was all in the flat (lolmidwest).

I've also used one of those bike caddies, but only for one bike, it was fucking great though I imagine two would put a lot of stress on it. Have you put any thought into a small pickup (Ranger, S10, Tacoma)?

>is it fine for highway speeds of 65+?
with the right gearing yes.

>is it fine for highway speeds of 65+?
define fine. Will it do it? Yes. Is it enjoyable for yourself or the bike? No.

Small truck is the right answer, your question is wrong.

Even so:
>Anything can tow a Harbor Frieght trailer with two dirt bikes on it.
Get a fucking accord and put a hitch on it.

thanks user.
no, not interested in truck as my sole car. might go jeep grand cherokee if i need more tow capacity. i had a 1996 and it was great. i wouldn't mind a more recent one.

I was comfortable at around 70mph with 15/39 gearing on mine, which was totally livable but not as much fun for hoonin as 15/44, which I was only comfortable with about 60mph. I went on many long highway trips with no issues, but it was more stressfull than other bikes because you feel the need to micromanage your RPMs.

how do they work, i heard that you have to put oil in the tank as well? or something to that effect

how do carbs work, i've been coddled by fuel injection

would use it as main transportation to/from college/work with going out into the woods on the weekends, would the drz400 suit that or is there something else that would fit better

again, norcal in humboldt

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everybody starts somewhere, bobby, you of all people should understand that

>oil in the tank
not for 4strokes
>how do carbs work
it mixes air and fuel lol. sometimes you gotta let it warm up, they're not that bad
>transpo
1 cyl aint the best for that 2bh. if you don't mind going kinda slow on the road, it's fun in the dirt

>carbs
i've heard that you have to "adjust" carbs on the road sometimes. i've always imagined having to carry a wrench around and smack some piece of metal around for it to cooperate

>transportation
it's just around a small college town, reaching a max speed of like 55. i can hoon to 80 on roads on the SV but apparently cops actually care about speeding up there

if you're making thousands of feet changes in elevation in one day, you will need to reach down to the mixture screw and richen it up (add more gas) because the air is thinner. for 99% of people this is not a problem.

the drz can hit 80 as well. cruising 55 is no sweat for it

>i heard that you have to put oil in the tank as well?
That's for 2 strokes, the DRZ is a 4 stroke like just about every bike you've ever seen on the road
>how do carbs work
You clean them once ever year or three and if you replace your intake/exhaust you have to change the jets, they're not that bad, and you don't need to know how they work to maintain them
>would use it as main transportation to/from college/work with going out into the woods on the weekends, would the drz400 suit that or is there something else that would fit better
I did that with my DRZ the whole time I was in college just about.

You really need to lurk moar m9

is there any particular year to shoot for/avoid in terms of used drz? what should i look out for

any other tips?

since launch they've pretty much been unchanged.
thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/860794-shopping-for-a-drz400-what-to-look-for/

>i've heard that you have to "adjust" carbs on the road sometimes
There's an idle air adjustment screw on them that you need to move a couple clicks if you change elevation by several thousand feet. The first time you take your carbs apart you'll replace this with a thumb screw, or you will have a pain in your ass
You have to pull the little choke lever out to make the bike easier to start in the cold sometimes
>transportation
DRZ is actually great around town and tons of fun, the SM version really shines in the city because you're never going highway speeds anyways and can see right over cars, and you're probably not riding long enough for the thin/hard seat to get annoying at all

in 2003 they changed the ACCT (automatic cam chain tensioner) so that it doesn't wear out the cam chain prematurely, pretty much the only change they ever made to the bike besides the graphics

The SM model has expensive suspension and street wheels and tires that's highly desirable if you spend most of your time on the street.
The S model comes with dirt wheels and tires that you'll need for any real offroading.
The E model comes with hotter cams and a different carb and so makes more power, but isn't street legal from the factory.

can you take the SM offroad, if not what would you need for riding trails?

You can take a Panigale offroad if you want to, it's just how much suck you're willing to deal with. You can also buy a second wheel set and swap them, which is what I dide. Pic related is my SM with E wheels 3000 miles from home.

If you're just going to be cutting down dirt bicycle paths on your way home from class like I used to, nothing.
If you wanna do a little more than that, you can get some dual sport tires for the 17" wheels.
If you wanna do real offroading get a second wheel set and soften up the suspension as much as the adjusters will let you.

If you put SM rotors and the same size sprocket on the E wheels, you can swap them in about 15 minutes without changing the chain.

You could also get SM wheels for your S but the front brake and suspension will suck on the street comparatively, and the wheels will cost twice as much, but you're going to pay extra when you buy the SM compared to the S.

In SM mode.

how much would a second set of plug-and-play dual sport tires run if i got the SM? sproket and everything included, just have to swap them out in your garage with a wrench

I thought yours was a 650

Nope, I had a memebike before it was a meme.

I got my wheels for $400 with ice racing tires on them, got a set of rotors off ebay for $45 I think, and a new sprocket for another $25ish maybe.

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Nice meme lid

>XL

What's it like being a freak?