Classic Volvo thread

Depends on the year. 2004 is STAY AWAY territory because it has a weird electrical system and some other shitty bits that are not shared by the rest of the years. 2005 is still not good. 2006-2007.1 is improved. 2007.2 is better.

The main problem points are
>slave cylinder on manuals. Never addressed by Volvo. $$$$ fix.
>automatic transmission is junk on 2004 and 2005. 2006+ has a new and much improved transmission.
>angle gear and angle gear sleeve. Improved in 2006, improved further during the second half of 2007's production run. Failure breaks AWD. $$$$ fix.
>cylinder scoring and cracks. boring a 2.3L engine out to 2.5L has its downsides. Failure breaks car.
>struts. More of a wear item, but expensive to replace, at around $400 a corner for parts alone if you're lucky and the Monroes are available. Failure makes 4C system suck even more than normal.
>4C adaptive suspension system is retarded and does not like sudden changes in surface, like potholes. Hitt a pothole and the car slams hard and you think the suspension is broken.
>sensors on struts like being retarded and throwing your car into a default mode with a fairly harsh ride. Turn the car off to clear it. Some people have had success in re-positioning the sensors.
>Haldex system much improved in 2006+. Still sucks.
>fuel mileage is horrendous. You'll be lucky to get 12/28.
>the turning circle is horrible, worse than a Suburban, and will embarrass you in parking lots and trying to make u-turns. No fix.
>tires will rub on stops. 10mm hub spacer front and 15mm rear fixes. Drop the car 1" and it's hellafrush bro, but you have to do a new SUM calibration on the stupid 4C system.

For best reliability, get a 2006-2007 automatic, the newer the better. There's no great way of telling if you got a late-2007 version, as far as I know. I wouldn't track it or launch hard because of the potential for angle gear problems. It's really better at long highway cruises than anything else.

With that leaf spring and possible nivomatic shock absorbers you dont have much options, coil-over is one possibility or original sport lowering leaf spring and shocks but good luck trying to find those anywhere.

I live in Sweden so that might help?
And that nivomatic is only in the rear right? So I can just cut the springs in the front.

I live in Finland and I tried to solve that problem without spending too much $$$ but didn't have any luck with it. Yeah nivo only rear, front is just coil springs with normal shocks. Drove the car with stock setup until I sold it.

There are lots of conversations on volvoforums about lowering nivo suspension if you do some research.

What about this?

translate.google.se/translate?sl=sv&tl=en&js=y&prev=_t&hl=sv&ie=UTF-8&u=http://www.l-m-r.se/p/volvo/940-960/vaghallning-136/fjadrar-stotdampare-306/sankningssatser-796/vaghallningssats-960sv90-95-98-40-50-mm.html&edit-text=&act=url

I don't know much about this stuff but this looks like what I want, doesn't it?

I totally forgot that one but I did try to do some research about it but didn't find anyone who bought it.

Sorry about my weak english skills but I try to explain something here
Without nivo shock the leaf spring is much stiffer becouse nivomat shock carry some weight and act a bit like springs while doing the job of shock absorbing too. So if you have "nivo leaf" and put some regular shocks with that the rear will drop very much and I guess it will be way too soft. So it would be nice to know some more about those shocks becouse I believe that those are just regular "sport shocks".

Oh and first thing you have to do is to make sure that do you even have nivo shocks.

I'm pretty sure that on swedish volvo forums you will find some information that I did not becouse jag talar inte svenska.

Some talking about the original "väghållningssats" which I believe is pretty much unobtainium.

forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=174674

This looks great but does it work? I dont know

kaplhenke.com/products/95-960-coilovers

i am so erect i cant even see straight

Yeah I'm gonna look further in to this, rather not do keplhenke since it's very expensive.

>Ontariofag

How's getting that thing to past e test in southern Shitario?

Simple as buying new tires

>and wheels

>and a lift kit

I saw one of these last year, so fuckin rusty I''m surprised it wasn't pulled off the road. Still ran doe.

Is that hearse?

Guys, I'm seriously thinking about buying Volvo 480. Are those any good? I know they're slow and underpowered (it doesn' really bother me), but what about reliability?

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>Post your issues

My 87 244 gets ~13 mpg for a start.

Damn! Ive got an 89 244 and im getting closer to 25

Yeah its pretty bad. I'm pretty clueless when it comes to auto repairs so I don't know what to do.

classics.honestjohn.co.uk/reviews/volvo/480/?section=buying

Here is some good info user

Where can I find a 242 GT?

>volvo

Those arent hipsters.

>Hipsters

you damn right

I've seen two for sale in the last 5 years where I live. One was like $1500 and pretty beat on the interior. The other was like $3200 or something and was really nice.

Damn. There was one for sale near me for $3300 a few months back, wasn't able to get it before someone else though. Haven't seen once since and I've been wondering how rare they are... Pretty rare, it seems.

Parents bought a V70 wagon new back in 1998, 19 years later they're still daily driving it. The factory clutch lasted 17 years and survived both me and my sister learning to drive standard on it. Thing is a tank. Pic not related, I dont have a picture of it on me.

Not really a "classic" Volvo, but damn this thread is comfy. Makes me miss when Veeky Forums actually had good discussion and wasn't 95% shitposting.

how bad is an automatic volvo as a first car

i cant find a volvo 250 they're rare
the only running volvo in my price range is below:
i found a 90s volvo 850 for $1000
98 volvo s70 $800
i found a 1993 volvo 960 wagon for $1600

>when Veeky Forums actually had good discussion and wasn't 95% shitposting.
I've been here since like 2010 and don't remember this time
Hold me Veeky Forums

they're not that bad. most of the ones before 2000 are 4 speeds though so if they're not the performance version they can be a little lacking sometimes. but they're a safe and reliable car and as long as you take care of it you should be able to take it to 400,000km no problems. some if not most of your electronics will fail at one point or another though.

The fuel pump is going to be under the driver's seat or thereabouts. It's 2 big cylinders in a metal cage. When you take it off, notice how tight the banjo nut is on the filter. It has to be as tight or tighter on the filter when you put it back on or it will leak fuel, speaking from experience. Make sure the filter you get comes with new copper washers.

Hnnnng yes so rugged

Don't fucking talk to me

Try a new air filter and clean out the air box. If you're feeling adventurous, try a new fuel filter or new sparkplugs. Other than that, I'm sorry user. It's a heavy car from when Ronnie Reagan was president

>AUDI BADGE

SOMEONE NEEDS TO DIE FOR THIS

>First link
- Cloth seats will come with farts pre-injected
- No turbo, enjoy your barge
- Other than that seems solid
>Second Link
- "Excellent condition" for $795
- Something is deathly wrong with it
>Third link
- personally not a fan of 850s, but if front wheel drive is what you want go for it
>Fourth link
9 series are a nice compromise between the 2 series and 850s and other "new" volvos. I have one and it's never let me down. If it has less than 75k on it it can't be in that bad shape under the hood. Mine is going on 330k and runs pretty good. I would go with this one if I were you.

Fuck dude. I thought my 17mpg average was bad

I have a 2004 V70, can confirm the electrical problems. The ABS computer chip broke, and its around 1700$ to replace.

MAF

Just make sure it's a turbo and you're good

>volvo 250
You mean a 245?

Have changed fuel filter, pump should be OK, don't know about pre pump. It runs fine at high RPM, is only hard to start, and hesitates at low RPM/in gear at low engine RPM.

I can hear main pump priming when ignition is turned on.

Have cleaned MAF with MAF spray, and tried different MAF to no avail. Unplugging MAF makes it run worse
.

>When I unplugged the maf it ran worse
No shit senpai. Maybe your injectors are bad? MatthewsVolvoSite, TurboBricks, and other forums are worth checking out

Already replaced injectors

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