QTDDTOT

I don't know. It's a '14 Focus

theres a 2013 nissan maxima on my local craigslist right now with 277,000 miles

that means it accumulated around 70,000 miles PER YEAR

what kind of person could put that amount of miles on a car? i cant figure it out. i do delivery and drive almost more than 4 hours most days and the most ive ever done is 39,000 in a single year.

that aint shit, people drive with their spares. Put two rear in front (should be in better condition anyway) get a used tire mounted and balanced and put it in back with the other you got in the front now.

Uber drivers. Some can put 300 miles a day easily.

ah ok. Still want to go with ContiContactPros because that's what all my other tires are.

Can a bad ambient temp sensor cause an AC compressor to not kick in?

most of the time it doesn't show a temp at all, but once in a while it will but will say its as cold as the arctic circle.

its a 2013 chevy sonic

Why would you buy one from the west coast if you're in florida? Florida has tons of importers.

where the fuck do you go to get a volvo ecu tune

Should a temperature gauge fluctuate much?
Impala went from 1/4 the guage to middle, fan kicked on and it dropped. It seems like really shitty design to only have fans cut on at a certain point.

Figured that since ships have to make a few extra thousand miles, plus a trip through the Panama canal, that it would be more expensive than buying from West coast. Though I could be wrong since this is my first time potentially importing.

Then find out, wussy.
>Jack up car front so both front tires are off the ground.
>Make sure ebrake is up so back wheels are locked
>Put the bitch in neutral and spin one of the wheels with your hand
>If the other wheel spins in the same direction you have an LSD and it will need two matching tires.
>If the other wheel spins in the opposite direction you're open differential so you're fine with a new tire up there
Also
>change out wheels from rear to front
Bam, two tires with matching tread up front.

Is there suppose to be oil in the valve cover of my Impreza? There wasn't a whole bunch, but still feel like none should be there.

Is my Impreza suppose to jerk a bit when letting off the gas in lower gears? Only seems to do it in first or second.

>Is there suppose to be oil in the valve cover of my Impreza?

Yes, whatever was in there is just residual that didn't drain back into the block after you shut the car off.

Whenever I do fast cornering the g-force moves my legs around I find it hard to keep my clutch control on point

What is the solution to this, downshift and come off the clutch completely before turning? Do racing seats keep the legs from moving around too much and help with this?

I drive a polo

duct tape feet to clutch. Or install velcro on pedals and on bottom of new balance (best race shoe) and peel of when u need to leave. but you race so you obv never leave ur German rice cooker

Is there such a thing as too much?

Check the oil when the motor is warm (like when you stop to get gas and leave the car off for 5-20 mins), yes I know it sounds stupid but it threw me off when the oil level always seemed low or way too high on these stupid cars.

What for exactly? What am I looking for?

Are you checking the oil?

No? I was replacing my valve cover gaskets and there was some oil in the one I did. I wasn't sure if this was normal or signs of a failed head gasket.

And yes I know the typical signs but we are talking about a Subaru engine here.

Racing seats and harness help a lot.
But most shifting should be done before turning so as not to upset the car in the corner entry.

$400 for VC gaskets
$700-800 for T-belt/WP and T-stat

If they're quoting you much, much less, stay away.

The VC gaskets are easy, and you can't really mess up the timing belt and assorted operation. While you're under the timing cover look for any leaky plugs or seals too. None of the bolts involved except the crankshaft bolt have to be particularly torqued properly fyi. All the techs zip them on anyway, just at moderately low torque

If it's not worth the headache, be prepared to lose money

>2002 WRX owner

yes there is always going to be oil in your valve cover on any car how do you think your valvetrain is lubricated

if you're doing valve cover gaskets its because the seals holding the valve cover to the motor failed and is now letting oil meant to be inside the engine out

be worried if its water or milky looking

BMW e46 325i hesitates when trying to accelerate past 20mph.
I don't have a scanner and only got $130 on me till next Friday. I think it's the fuel pump. Suggestions?

Haven't seen it be watery or milky. Just that I was losing oil. Dealership said it was the head gaskets but just didn't seem right. I thought maybe it was just because it's the opposed engine, but couldn't find any useful info online. Going to change the other change the other cover, just didn't have time to do it last time, soon, and we'll see if that helps or not.

Thanks for the info, user.

I asked a dealer how much a timing belt and water pump job was for my 07 Impreza. It's the non-turbo, but they told me the turbo price since I didn't specify at first. $1800 was what they told me. Could be different on your dealer, but wouldn't think it will be much. I'm sure a third party will be less.

Valve gaskets aren't bad, just did mine, but I had a lot of tight spots for mine. I think the earlier models have a bit more room.

Timing belt I'm not too sure on what I'll do myself. It's expensive to get done, yet essential. Doing it myself will probably be a pain in the ass too due to the room.

Might be a good learning experience, but you need to set time enough time so you can do it properly.

>Going to change the other change the other cover
Rip.

Do a compression then combustion test.

Rent the combustion tester from Autozone, the fluid for it is another $10-20. Ditto the compression tester when you do it, you SHOULD get something in between 140-170psi, the more important part is that all four cylinders are consistent and you don't have one cylinder with half the psi every other cylinder does.

autozone.com/loan-a-tools/block-tester/oem-block-tester/391378_0_0

You have to be losing a serious amount of oil for it to be the headgaskets. Its more likely valve cover gaskets, especially if its smoking at idle (dripping on headers). While a headgasket can break at a oil channel it's rare and that would make it leak at a much faster rate than a valve cover gasket.

Crank bolt? Why would you have to remove it?

The Aisin kit I bought has a bunch of idlers and pulleys. Can I use screwdrivers to hold the driver's side cams in place like a buddy suggested? It doesn't look difficult:

>Remove radiator, hoses, and timing cover
>Set timing on all 4 cam sprockets
>remove idlers, pump, tensioner, then belt
>bolt on new idlers/pump/tensioner
>add new belt matching it to the timing marks on the sprocket
>pull pin on tensioner to tension belt and fire it up

I did a compression test before, but it didn't really show anything weird. Basically all in the same range. Never did combustion test.

What is a serious amount? I was losing about 1/3 of a quarter every fill up? Was doing about 50% highway so it would equate to around 330-350 every fill up usually. I also don't think I've seen any smoking.

That's not a serious amount, unless its a slow leak. Change the other valve cover gasket and see what happens. Make sure to let the RTV sit for at least 24 hours before starting (the longer it cures the better the chances the job will last).

Change your PCV valve + hose too with a OEM dealer part, it won't hurt and will lessen oil consumption if it is bad/worn out.

subaruoutback.org/forums/99-do-yourself-illustrated-guides/61666-2002-2-5l-pcv-valve-replacement.html

parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2007_Impreza25L-5MT-4WDWagon/_54102_6023882/EMISSION-CONTROL-PCV-05MY-/G11-082-05.html

The gasket, at least for the side I did, didn't have any silicone on it. I did not read it called for its use either. I suppose I could if I can find it absolutely called for.

Already changed pcv valve though. So good on that.

Is it normal for the lower ball joint to move around in the lower control arm? I replaced all four ball joints on my truck and the lowers will move up and down in the control arm quite a bit. There are circlips on top of them to keep them from falling out but they're not very big. I'm trying to figure out why the fuck my truck is wandering.

Rice cooker, I like that

If she's wandering it's because you do t satisfy her sexually

> Have you tried shoving your dick in her tail pipe?

srs tho. Tie rods are good. Only other thing is that there's a slight clunk coming from the rack, but there's only like an inch or less of steering play.

Realistically, how much would I be looking at if I want to put a turbo in my car, or if I want to replace my current engine with a turbo one. I won't be able to turbo my car for a couple of years, but hoping to do so in as soon as I can. Either that, or just sell my current car and get the turbo equivalent.

pic related is my car, would there be any issues with having the same kind of engine that would be in a coupe model?

Repostan from another thread.
How big is the difference between drifting in a car where the diferential has been welded, and with a stock diferential?

Volunteered to help pull an engine out of an NSX. I've never done anything beyond changing a car's oil before. The other people know what they're doing, but I sure as hell won't.

How fukt am I Veeky Forums?

is it worth taking all my injectors out, cleaning them individually with carb cleaner then putting them back in with new seals?
there's nothing wrong i just know the last owners never did anything of the sort and i want to give them a good flush

that means that person would literally be driving something like 10-12 hours a day. that's crazy

yeah he's the homie.

Guys I plan to get 4 brand new tires for my mother's 2010 Ford Focus sedan. I wanted to get Continental TrueContact DWS (tire size 195 60 15) but they're too expensive at nearly 90 USD a tire (inb4 you get what you pay for, I know I know).

Anyway, the tires I'm looking at are the General Tire Altimax RT43s as my mother does a mix of city and highway driving. Are these good tires?

Thanks

If the aux fans kick on its probably much hotter than its reading, or the temp switch for them is bad.

Are you talking about the outside of the valve cover in the spark plug channel or in side where the cam and valves are?

not fucked at all if they're good at giving directions and you're good at following them

Just bought an e-30 in pretty good condition and want to start working on it. I've basically only changed oil and other fluids before but I want to be able to service pretty much everything but the most challenging repairs. I have the Haynes manual and it seems like a good place to start but any youtube channels or just general tips would be appreciated.

Your in Florida buy from Montu.

Spend the extra 40-50 and get a Bentley's repair manual. There are several forums dedicated to e30s r3vlimited being one of the most well known, hit them up if you're stumped.

The cars themselves are fairly easy and Straight forward to work on

Yes, but do it properly, and build or buy a tool to properly cycle and clean them.

The injectors have to be running with pressure behind them to be cleaned correctly.

What's this piece called?

Belt tensioner

Are there advantages in buying lightweight wheels of the same size as the OEM ones?

How are manual V8 F-bodies for reliability and wrenchability?

Is there an Veeky Forums discord?
If not, can someone make one?

Where the cam and valves are, but there was some in the spark plug channel as well.

Newfag here. What's the matter with scissor jacks? Why does the manual say you shouldn't use them for anything other than replacing tires? I couldn't find any articles on this that don't say take your car to a """trusted""" mechanic.

*I forgot to mention, I asked my dad about this and he said that logs are safer than jack stands. Is this true?

I'm 6ft 4 can I fit in a first or second generation MR2.

Small base for one. They could collapse if you leave a car on one for too long.

how bad is it to drive >20 miles with bad alignment? I just replaced one tie rod but can't replace the other currently and I don't want to pay for an alignment twice

Also what is this and why is it not connected?

Looks like your swaybar. Rust I'd assume, your car will likely handle like ass until you re attach it. And how bad is the alignment? It'll rape your tires if it's pretty bad.

I got a car that was maintained fairly well about ago.

Its been cold like below freezing since I got it.
There was some front end suspension noise, not a lot of noise from the back.

Today I took it in to a stealership for a recall, and they gave me a "complimentary 20 point inspection" where they said that its in great shape other than my front ball joints.

It just so happens that now its hot outside, but my rear suspension is making a ton of noise. Popping and acting weird when I let off the gas and shit.

Did the dealership fuck with my suspension trying to get me to come back, or is the warm weather causing it?

I cant imagine that the one highly rated honda dealership would mess with it, but its 1000x louder and worse than it was a week ago when it was 20 degrees out

I would guess it's the weather. Mainline dealerships don't really do stuff like that in my experience because they just have better things to do and it's not worth the risk, time, or effort.

I don't remember the last time I saw a stock GTR. Every single one is "tastefully modded" or molested beyond repair. Poor GTR

a stock R32 GT-R is nothing special

theres a reason why people modify them

Ball joints or other rubber bushings are common wear points and I would imagine that any car from the early to mid 2000's is coming up on its "long term maintenance" stuff. Like said, it would be unlikely that a mainline dealer would risk actually fucking with your car to get you to come back. Best thing you could do right now is take your rear wheels off and look around for what's actually making the noise rather than just guessing "something from the rear".

I get all that, it's just that every one of them looks super ugly and the owner believes it'll sell for a high price because muh expensive mods. Or I just prefer stock looking cars or something.

you wont really permanently fuck up your tires until you do 500-1000 miles on them. Even still, get your shit aligned asap or you'll be cursed listening to "Wop wop wop wop" on the freeway until you buy new tires. One tie rod end is cheaper than 2 new front tires.

grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/headroomlegroom-in-toyota-sports-cars/17437/page1/

Here, a whole page of big people talking about small sporty toyotas

No it isn't normal, your control arm is worn the fuck out, and you need to replace it.

there's nothing to stop a sissor jack, or a piston jack from collapsing. Cars usually include a sissor jack with the spare tire because its liquid free and doesn't take up much space but is only meant to temporarily hold a car up. Always use jackstands if you plan on going underneath the car. As for what your dad thinks about logs/block of wood, they have a wide footprint and are fairly soft, better for metal on wood rather than metal on metal. But really, there is no advantage to using wood over regular jackstands. Personally i'd be afraid for the wood to split or fall over since it's not nearly as strong as steel.

Less unsprung mass on the axle for one, less mass on the car overall. The only downside is that lighter wheels, if poorly engineered, are more likely to break if you hit a pothole.

Even if the gauge is only at the halfway point? Fan comes on, runs, and within 30 seconds the coolant is turning over and the temp drops.

Engine sounds fine at idle, so not a leaking head gasket. I've got a squeel in the belt when turning but that is only when turning.

The engine and trannies are reliable, everything else is hit and miss. Common issues are shitty wiring and interior falling apart. Also rust. The older ones are pretty easy to work on, but the 4th gen has the engine crammed way back

How good is instant gasket for oil pans? I've got a 2002 Hyundai that's pissing oil all over my garden and for some reason my mate wants to buy it off me. Gaskets are hard to find so silicone?

Learning manual, sometimes I forget to shift upwards (most often when im in first and a second) that car stops accelerating. Once I notice that the car stops accelerating I shift upwards and everything is fine. My dad said that I can blow the engine this way. How long do I have before the engine blows from not shifting upwards? It's an Acura TSX. I don't know if it matters, but I usually drive the speed limit and don't have a very heavy foot.

Stopping at red lights. Should I leave it in gear or put it in neutral which stops the motor. Manual transmission, curious about the bottom line, do I do more damage in the long run by having it in neutral and switching in gears more often?

Find the oil resistant one, and follow directions. but yes they work in a pinch.

Is the engine bouncing off the redline? Yes? Then yes your fucking the engine up.

Can you not hear the engine?

This is something that people love to fight about.

>hold your clutch in at stop lights all the time you wear the throwout bearing
>put it into neutral to save the throwout bearing its more dangerous as if you sense danger you have to throw it into gear to move instead of already being in gear.

I do both, depending on how long I think the light will be. I dont pay too close attention to it.

If you anticipate sitting here for a minute or so, put it in neutral and foot off the clutch.

If you sit there holding the clutch pedal in you're fucking up your throw out bearing, and clutch plate.

So on a 30+ ish second stop the gear is best put in neutral, but any less should be just left in gear?

Its more a judgement call on your part but yes.

I typically just put it in neutral every time.

>its more dangerous as if you sense danger you have to throw it into gear to move instead of already being in gear.

Its not about moving out of the way. If you get slammed into by another car you are better off stalling the engine and having the tires locked up than having your car be completely free wheeling in neutral

I've had three sets of general tires, so this isn't concrete evidence. All three sets were dry rotted beyond drivable at about 70% tread left. And I drive more than the average warranty would suggest.

Thanks, got into a fight over muh motor start and transmission wear. And everyone considers themselves an armchair general but don't have the first clue about automobilism (myself included).

Manny trannies are the hottest meme here, but I'm in California where traffic is stupid. Is it still worth it despite all the stop and go traffic, or should I just stick with an auto?

Personally, I'm lazy and I coast in gear until the rpms hit around 500-1000 then I slide it into neutral and roll/brake the rest of the stop. I don't bother with upshifting to to keep engine braking. Brakes are cheaper than engines.

Now ask us if you should downshift and engine brake or if you got into neutral and use your brakes from full speed approaching a red light.

My instructor told me to downshift and let the engine brake by itself. I do the opposite.

Yes, but you also have to be a homosexual. If you don't take your life partner when you buy it, you'll have to blow the designated fag until completion. If the latter, you'll have to pay the fag fee, usually about a hundred bucks.

2015 corolla LE, 40k miles, 11.9k. financing to built my young as fuck credit. It's going to be an uber machine. Y/N?

Depends
Are you through college and started in your entry level job in your chosen career?
Or are you 18 years old and cant afford to buy a car outright so you are going to back yourself into a corner with a low end car, high interest rates, 5 years of car payments with expensive as fuck full coverage insurance?

Ive seen both scenarios played out by friends, one had a much better outcome than the other